Hi All,
I'm the proud owner of a Whitewater since about four weeks, it's such a cool game, I am, however, noticing that sometimes during multiball too many balls get into the upkicker and then the coil is not strong enough to kick more than one ball up onto the upper playfield. I've even had three balls in there during Whitewater muliball. Of course when it happens I need to stop the game and pull the balls out with a magnet. I have not yet made an archeological expedition under the upper playfield and I can't really tell from the manual if there is a mechanism which should prevent this and is maybe damaged. Has anybody had this and what was the fix ?

I had a small divot where the ball hits the playfield under the VUK with the occasional ball hangup so I put in the cliffy there. Put a touch of 2K filler in the divot. I put a bit of cardboard under the ramp leading from spine chiller so it was higher than the cliffy. When I tried it the first time I was half way expecting that lovely clinking sound of metal against metal, but what I got was a ball hitting a hard surface and bouncing. So the ball bounces I think around twice or so and then rolls down to the upper pf. This means it needs slightly longer to reach the upper playfield. So I put a coin size piece of mylar right under the VUK thinking it might dampen the impact a bit, but if anything it slowed it down a bit more with no perceivable reduction of the bouncing. The ball even got stuck once on the mylar, I’ll probably peel it off again.

I reckon I’ll get used to the bouncing and the slight delay (it still feels kind of funny, though), but I was wondering if anyone else has had this and if yes I’d like to hear your thoughts and/or actions.

Thank you for your comments. I searched this thread for “cliffy” before I posted, but I’ll have another look. The only hangups I was getting were directly on the divot. This is why the cliffy appealed to me. The ramp on my game was slightly higher than the playfield, but it was slightly lower than the top of the cliffy, this is why I raised the ramp. The horizontal gap is maybe 4mm. Not sure how I could put in the VUK differently as there are two screws on the pf and a hole on the popper to align the input end, but I’ll look. Since you are not getting bouncing, clearly something is different.

That thought crossed my mind. It would suggest tha the cliffy would need to deform slightly to reduce bounce. It’s fairly thick, though, seems unlikely it should work like that. And the Cliffy homepage recommends to fill the divot.

I used 3 white frosted and 3 blue frosted (each grouped together in 3er bundles) so generally one white bulb and one blue bulb is on. It creates kind of a frothing effect - like whitewater.

I usually try to keep my games as original as possible, but I never liked the red.

I‘ll try that tomorrow when I‘m back in the house.

I could not figure out a way to make a video which resembles what the eye sees.

Don‘t you get a lot of right outlane drains? I have been thinking lately about taking the rubber out. This has been discussed at various places in this thread.

What does puzzle me a bit is that there seems to be two switches behind the rubber above the right outline. This little lane is pretty much blocked off because of the rubber so balls only go in there from below on strange bounces. How come the game never gives an error at start up because these switches are rarely activated?

I notice in your picture you‘ve removed the larger rubber ring on the two posts next to the rightmost bumpers and put small rings on each. It seems to me some folks here have recommended to remove the posts entirely and cover the holes with small circles of mylar. I‘m thinking about removing the large ring on my game, now you‘ve presented a further alternative. Was it a conscious choice on your part to leave the posts in?

that's funny, my gate was missing, too. Balls kept hopping back to the bottom of the trough until I made a gate. I like that wire bending tool, I'll have to look for one (or make it myself).

After reading these posts I thought I should have a few games to watch for dimming. I checked the settings as well and dimming is enabled. The GI lights blink, but I didn‘t really notice any dimming. I have all LEDs in the GI, I‘ve never noticed ghosting. I probably shouldn‘t be asking this question because if somebody points it out it‘ll bug me afterwards when I see it in the game - but when is this dimming occuring?

thanks for these infos. I will need to investigate this on my game. I have amassed a large collection of incandescent bulbs so I can pick out the brightest ones.

I‘m not sure it‘s entirely true that LEDs don‘t dim, but I realize that due to their faster response time they may appear to blink or flicker while an incandescent bulb may indeed appear to dim. I will need to try the dimming function (setting 1-8) in the menu to see what effect this has on LEDs.

Why disable the dim function ? At worst the LEDs will blink (I noticed in particular the LEDs behind the river standups blink, but it‘s not irritating (even if it‘s not necessarily Mr. Nordman‘s intention…). If there is ghosting I have not noticed it.

I do not know if these OCD boards are readily available in EU, I have never seen them for sale, although I have never researched it in depth.

O h m y G O O D N E S S !!. All these years I have been putting coins (most of my games take German marks) in my games not realizing I have been robbing myself blind because I have them all on three balls (even my EM games !!&$!!). Thanks so much for pointing this out. You really need to go public about this because I’m not sure enough people know. I was completely in the dark.

I tried this - took out the GI leds and put in incandescents, based on the recommendations somebody in this thread made - maybe it was you? - I agree, the slow dimming effect is cool, with LEDs it‘s more of a flashing effect. The downside is the game is not as bright - when you get used to LEDs in the GI, incandescents just look kind of pale. I went through my box of incandescents and picked out the brightest ones, too. It‘s a bit of a tradeoff, but for now the incandescents are in.

I have not looked into these ocd boards - not sure if they‘re available here.