White Water
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Quoted from dgoett:Cleaning out my garage and found a topper with the foil. The other decal art is slightly faded and as usual it has a small wrinkle down the middle and the white plastic has yellowed some.
How much are these going for now?
You might be able to get a "C-list" DMD game for it. 
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Mine kept coming loose (probably slightly stripped), so I ended up grabbing ones slightly bigger from the HW store.
Any time I have a stripped wood screw in a game I add a piece of toothpick to the hole and maybe a tiny drop of Elmer's wood glue if it is something that has to be tightened down really hard. Don't believe I've ever had one work back loose when using that method.
Quoted from MikeSinMD:Also, I should add, when first turning the game on, after it boots up the upper popper will fire 10 times then stop.
What state do the optos show in switch level test?
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:I've had my machine for 2 years and it's had an insane amount of plays and it's never one done that. What it does instead that drives me crazy is sometimes when I load up No way out with 2 balls it will sometimes go to pop the ball up the wireform and the ball won't make it out. It then falls back down but the ball behind it has already rolled into position on the popper cup. Now it sits there trying to eject 2 balls which it can't do and the game goes into ball search mode. Then you have to remove the glass, grab a screwdriver and wait for balls to shoot up the wireform and grab it with the screwdriver. At this point your multiball is shot to shit cause it will eject the other ball as well. Very frustrating i'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this issue. I've taken the whole assembly out and fully examined it but have not seen any reason for the problem to persist.
Mine does this way too often, but it will usually manage to finally pop the first then second ball out, but occasionally it won't. I've also removed the mech, made sure the cup has all it's prongs (it looks pretty new), replaced the coil sleeve and cleaned everything up but no change. The next thing I'm going to do is put a meter on my coil voltage with clips so I can watch the meter when I play and see if there is any variance that may be causing it, possibly due to line voltage, etc. I thought about doing the same with the 12VDC to the driver board which I haven't really tested at all since getting the machine about 8 months ago.
Anyone here have much experience with the clear blue flipper bats in this game. Mine has three in it from the previous owner with Superbands (those are definitely getting replaced with Titan Silicone as soon as I get around to it) and one of the bats just broke. They look cool but I've heard they do break pretty easily, I have no idea how many plays these have on them though so my question is are they worth keeping on there, replacing that one and having a spare or two or should I just put white bats on and be done with it? Anyone try the solid blue ones from PBL with white Titan or Perfect Plays on them?
Quoted from Mrstern:Hey guys I am doing a restoration and are looking for some NOS parts any help would be appreciated I need nos ramps nos topper decal and a nos playfield set
Good luck and I hope you have some serious $$$ should you find actual NOS Ramps or Topper Decal!
Quoted from yaksplat:it's the locking of ball 3 that triggers it. You just have to had hit wet willies, class 6 river and all of the boulders some time in the game.
Don't you need all the items from Bigfoot's cave too?
Quoted from RobDutch:Thank you all for the advice! As I'm still a student, I'm not willing to overpay a lot that's why I asked help hahaha.
The stupid thing with this pin, is that the add is up for over a month, it has been seen a lot and the price is not high.
So bit scared I'm missing something here..
The machine is only half an hour away, so thinking of checking it out.
And wow pindelapin for the Firepower guy
Maybe he knows there is a few thousands of bucks in the cash box
That game has some unusual wear and some less-than-stellar touch ups, based on that and my experience looking at dozens of WH20s for two years before finding one nice enough but not too nice (I didn't want to pay 7-8K for a fully restored one) I'd bet there are multiple raft inserts with edge wear on that game too. I'd probably pass on it at $4K but anything lower and you're in good shape for a players condition game. Funny how this game used to be considered a B or C title not that long ago and now everyone wants one.
Quoted from jawjaw:I think Whitewater has the best looking translite of all the 90's pins. Love how they made a whole topper for the title and just had artwork on the translite. I wonder why they didn't do that to other games.
They completely misjudged how much people would pay for a topper, could have kept them in the business several more years! 
Quoted from Marten:I think you get 1 million points times the raft number you advance to.
Sounds accurate to me, starts at 4M.
Quoted from Beldar:I just recently finished rehab of my “used/out on route” WH2O that I bought in 2000. I tried to keep the pin close to factory build as per Parts Manuals found online. Game manual shows the Post Covers to be black, but I ended up buying blue which looks much better against/with the Playfield, imo. My WH2O Manual does not call out or reference the color for flipper rubbers, however the Game Manual and the Parts Manual call out two different part #’s for them and only the Parts Manual denotes them as being black. When I bought our WH2O the flipper rubbers were red, so that is what I replaced them with. I prefer the flipper bands being red, especially the lower flippers as the red contrasts well with the Playfield blue areas by them and helps make the red on Wet Willie’s raft standout a little better. I like the blue (a medium blue) of my post covers. As far as a “light blue” for myself it would come down to how “light” of a blue it really is and whether I thought it would enhance the Playfield appearance or not. All comes down to personal preference.
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Your game looks nice. Keep in mind that when they built these games they had very limited choices of colors to use (black, red and yellow for posts) unlike today. The reds do look pretty good and are a bit bouncier than black, personally I prefer blue ones from Titan. I read in this thread recently that WH20 shipped with regular flippers with a spare set of zipper flippers in the goodie bag, possibly the reverse of that in Europe which may be why the manuals call out two different part numbers.
Quoted from Johncare07:I just got my WH20 back together from a restore and the ball wont stay in the 3rd ball position in the cue. Instead, it rolls back down into the drain area which triggers the solenoid to fire again, starting the cycle all over when it should stay in the third ball position awaiting its turn to launch. What would you do to fix it?
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I think you're missing the wire form that goes in there to prevent a ball from rolling back out of the trough.
Edit: I'm pretty sure it's this part: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6542
Quoted from transprtr4u:Major shop job on my WWH2O and my gate is missing as well, however I'm not have the same issue of the ball rolling back ?
Will order the gate on my next order!
In my experience with Sys 11 games (I know WH20 is not a Sys 11 game but shares the same type of trough with many Sys 11 games) it only happens if the ball kick-over (clearly not the official name) is really strong and causes the last ball to rebound back but the gate should definitely be there.
Quoted from Johncare07:I’m brand new to game play. How do you get the Bigfoot to activate? What’s shots (or sequence of shots) do it?
Any time you hit the Bigfoot Bluff shot when Hotfoot isn't running he diverts the ball to the Whirlpool, so almost any time you hit that shot which is often at least if you want to collect Whirlpool awards.
Quoted from Johncare07:Thanks. The diverter works perfectly. Is his head supposed to spin then too? Mine doesn’t. When is his head supposed to move?
Yep, anytime he diverts the ball and some other times too (if you boff your last ball he'll turn and laugh at you occasionally) his head should turn counterclockwise to face you and then back the other way when he's done. Sounds like you have an issue with the bigfoot motor, driver board or elsewhere.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:I spoke too soon, i thought it was fine because I forgot to plug it in, lol. I also read your thread regarding a similar issue. I am going to do some further troubleshooting and may just start a thread so I dont spam the club over the next week.
You probably know this but if not....put the game in switch test mode and bang on the playfield with the palm of you hand and see if any switches are activating. It may help to try this with some other commonly closed switches closed such as the ball locks which would indicate a switch matrix issue.
Quoted from EStroh:I just fixed this same issue on mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-random-phantom-balls-in-the-vuk-to-the-upper-pf#post-5771028
The key to finding the problem was to play the game with the glass off, and rolling the ball through all the switches until I found the one that falsely triggered the VUK.
Also be sure the plunger isn't sticking in the up position after it launches the ball, this will block the opto and make it re-fire it until it drops.
Quoted from woody76:Can you read? You have to mount it differently. It has to be mounted with spacers so the entire thing leans forward. It is not perfect but way better than glitter and so far no one has even noticed it was a repro
Have any of those people ever seen a real one in person and do those people have decent eye sight? I've seen the setup you have / are referring to and it took me roughly one second to see it wasn't an OG. May be the best alternative out there but it's still a far cry from the original one - pretty amazing that in 2020 we can't find a way to reproduce that thing.
Quoted from McSquid:Checked mine out while inspecting everything. Mine has a red PCB. Possible the board has already been replaced? I've only been able to find pics of this board having a green pcb.
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Red PCB generally were used for prototypes or sample games AFAIK.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Soulrider911... to me it's a close call.
The original definitely has much more water fall movement, however, the huge crease down the center and the faded looking mountains brings it way down... with that said; the repop has nice mountain colors, it's clean and new looking but the flashlight is really lacking.
I would put it up with the 194's lights blinking on both, then decide. I'd be slightly leaning towards the repop.
Kerry
Don't do it man, you'll be sorry!
Quoted from J67ab:Ok, just loaded in the mirrored backglass, a little darker than the translight but works better with the led setup I have and seems to give a sharper image without distorting or extra glare. Tighter fit in loading it in.
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I've considered the 3D translite, hadn't really seen the actual backglass before.
Quoted from crazy79:For a frosted yeti H2WO theme, a small custom on the decal is needed.
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As you said it's a matter of personal preference but that makes me cringe, have never understood the appeal of all that white powder coating but if you like it, rock on with your bad self!
Quoted from whthrs166:So it sounds like a geometry issue with the alignment of the VUK to the wireform. I will look into that today. I can test any alterations by throwing in two balls to see how it discharges them. I will post up my findings. Thanks Guys!
Yes, if the wireform is not in the holes you'll have issues, also the VUK bracket is pretty easily bent and in fact can be bent a little to adjust how quickly the ball gets to the upper flipper. Make sure it's straight to start out with.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:REVIR?
I noticed the same, while they match the inserts having those on the targets makes us english readers see it backwards.
Sounds like some broken solder joints on the headers which you'd have to pull the board to re-flow, it's really not that hard and just label any connectors you are worried about getting back into the correct spots. It could also be some wires not making good contact in the new IDC connector so you could try giving them a once-over first.
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:The piss poor contacts inside the female connectors have only one point of contact. The headers on the PCB will become a problem due to heat created from this. Failure to replace the Female Conector WILL result in burnt tracks and eventually destroy the PCB. Great Plains Electronics are very cheap and they sell the much better Contacts and new connector shells. Just order the big ones and cut them to suit. The new Contacts have twice the contact surface area and will never fail again.
J115......J120.....J121 all need to be replaced....They are all part of the GI lighting Train.
CS156-19-V0 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 19 Pin
08-52-0113 Crimp Contact, 0.156", Trifurcon, 18-20AWG
Now would be a good time to do a Blanket Capacitor change on the Driver Board if it hasn't already been done.
For clarity the Driver Board Header Connector failure is a result of the Playfield female Connectors. When the Females are replaced you can actually leave the headers alone if you are not confident in soldering. Having said that you will need to get up to speed with Crimping if soldering is not your thing or hand it over
He stated in his original post that he's replaced the female connector with another IDC one, not what I would recommend but many people aren't comfortable with the process of converting them to crimp style.
Quoted from rvermeire:I changed the broken (only 2 pins) ball cradle a couple of weeks ago and things seems to have improved but since a couple of days the issue is back. Not enough power to do eject on the upper VUK. (1 out of 5 is not getting out)
Anything else that can be done ?
Did anyone replace the coil with a more powerfull one?
Ensure the VUK wireform is securely seated in the holes at the bottom, if that's good try very slightly bending the bracket that holds the coil to better align the VUK to the wireform.
Quoted from Kneissl:Finally scored an original topper!!! anyone interested in my twisted pins remake?
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Only if you sprinkle it in fairy dust (glitter) first. Just kidding, I have a very slightly bubbled original on mine. Congratulations on hitting the topper lottery!
Quoted from Kneissl:I got it for $500 but that’s probably a steal in this crazy world of 1500+ toppers
That's been a steal on this particular topper for at least two years!
The "story of the topper" including a lot of technical details about trying to properly re-create it today are in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-ideas-for-white-water-topper In my opinion this thread only gets really good when 
Gibranx gets involved and really goes down the rabbit hole on trying reproduce it including trying to find viable manufacturers to do so. The short answer is that no one really makes things using the same process the original used and most available technologies do not produce suitable results or / and are entirely too expensive.
Quoted from kguenther6:I just joined the club. I'm having an issue in which hazard 7 never registers. It also doesn't work when that path is lit up for Man Overboard. But works fine on Whirlpool. I checked switch 48 (canyon entrance) switch 62 (whirlpool exit) and switch 61 (whirlpool popper) and they all work fine. The whirlpool awards also work fine along with bigfoot jackpot. I'm using ROM LH-6. Is there another switch that needs activated to get hazard 7? Is there a bug in the software? Any help would be appreciated.
Edit: I had a friend with the same ROM version test his and it registers the hazard when the ball hits switch 62 (whirlpool). So switch 61 is not needed to register the shot. But again my switches 48 and 62 seem to be working fine in switch test. Also during the game switch 48 always works the diverter and 62 always gives the drain sound effect.
I guess that means I don't have to sell you mine now, congrats and welcome!
Quoted from tonyf1965:Lite out. Everything else seems to be working on my white water. Except my whirlpool is lit lamp, is out. I am struggling to find the problem. I even pulled the power pcb and tested q86 and q94 they check good. I can turn on (lights whirlpool) in service menu but I cant turn on (55) (whirlpool is lit, lamp). Any ideas?
Did you test the socket and continuity of both leads back to the PCB? Could be a broken wire from one bulb to the next in the row or column.
Quoted from Jon9508:Turn off the gi power saving feature. Sometimes this helps. Or try and get a rom with the ghost patch installed.
Do ghost patched ROMs fix issues with GI dimming? I thought they only fixed the issue with controlled lamps because they are matrixed.
Quoted from Jherre6:Anyone here patch and burn roms? I’d love the LH6”c” rom patched for ghosting. All my machines take coins. I like it that way. More fun. I can provide the lh6c regular rom if needed
Also does the OCD board handle all LEDs? Play field and back box?
WPC games have two different boards LEDOCD and GIOCD, you need both if you want all the LEDs controlled by the OCD boards. Obviously the GIOCD is G.I. only and LEDOCD handles all the controlled lamps.
Quoted from Jherre6:Anyone here patch and burn roms? I’d love the LH6”c” rom patched for ghosting. All my machines take coins. I like it that way. More fun. I can provide the lh6c regular rom if needed
Also does the OCD board handle all LEDs? Play field and back box?
Did you try turning off GI dimming to see if that resolved your issue, it could be something else?
Quoted from jawjaw:Leds cannot dim by default. You have to turn off dimming and attract mode power saving mode otherwise leds will just flicker. There is no fix for this flicker other than getting ocd boards. Not sure how these boards work but they do. Ghosting can be fixed with non ghosting led bulbs or patched roms. Ocd boards fixes all the led issues and supports dimming. I love these boards and have them in all my games. WH2O is such a beautiful game with great fade effects. You have to get these boards if running leds imo.
Not to derail this into an OCD board discussion but they basically take what are (relatively) slow pulses from the game during dimming and turn them into much, much faster PWM pulses. This is necessary because LEDs turn on and off nearly instantly where an incandescent reacts very slowly so the slow pulses are effectively smoothed by the element in the bulbs natural warming and cooling curve.
Quoted from branlon8:thanks for these infos. I will need to investigate this on my game. I have amassed a large collection of incandescent bulbs so I can pick out the brightest ones.
I‘m not sure it‘s entirely true that LEDs don‘t dim, but I realize that due to their faster response time they may appear to blink or flicker while an incandescent bulb may indeed appear to dim. I will need to try the dimming function (setting 1-8) in the menu to see what effect this has on LEDs.
Why disable the dim function ? At worst the LEDs will blink (I noticed in particular the LEDs behind the river standups blink, but it‘s not irritating (even if it‘s not necessarily Mr. Nordman‘s intention…). If there is ghosting I have not noticed it.
I do not know if these OCD boards are readily available in EU, I have never seen them for sale, although I have never researched it in depth.
Well LEDs CAN dim for certain but strictly for the purposes of the discussion specfic to WPC pinball machines - they don't without flickering unless you use a 3rd party board. If the OCD boards are not readily available I did read a comment in some other thread recently that there are similar products available that are made in the EU somewhere but I don't remember the name of it.
Ghosting is completely different and happens to controlled lamps, not GI. I don't remember the technical reasons too clearly but sufficit to say that it is caused by the matrixed / pulsed circuit design. These can usually be eliminated by using non-ghosting LEDs if you don't want the expense of an OCD or OCD like board and can live with the rapid on/off timing of an LED versus the smoothed ramp up/down you can get from the OCD type board. Some people's eyes are bothered by the flickering and others seem to be immune to it.
Quoted from DwightEisenhower:Anyone have any experience with the LED conversion kits?
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/whitewater-led-kit
https://cointaker.com/products/whitewater-premium-led-kit
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/05-1845
https://www.pinballbulbs.com/products/white-water-pinball-ultimate-led-kit-stock-mountains
I have pinstadiums on it right now. While I like the amount of light it provides, it buts up against the top of insanity falls and some of the mountains.
Thanks in advance.
Not an ideal game for Pinstadiums for those reasons, I don't really like kits to convert games and keep in mind you'll need to turn off GI dimming if you convert it to LEDs without the GIOCD board.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:I have an original WH20 Etched Foil Waterfall Topper, on it's upright stand, with original plastic dome (complete original topper).
Curious what it's worth?
Let me know.
Thanks
Kerry
I'm sure you could get at least $1K for it, on eBay who knows how high it might go.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Not only did it sound awful, many sounds wasn't complete like the end-of-ball tune missing the last tones. I would never use this package.
A sheet of mylar.
Protecting the shooter lane in a home environment isn't really necessary though imo.
I usually use mylar too, especially on new Sterns but the shooter lane in my Wh20 is not going to get worse from me playing it at home, it was obviously routed and apparently earned pretty well.
Quoted from JosephT:Anyone else get upset when they see these machines converted to snow theme? Such a disservice to Dennis and Willy...
Upset no, but I definitely don't like the look and wouldn't want one like that even with all the extra bling.
Quoted from ArcadeAction:The White Water lighted flipper mod has now been posted available at http://www.ArcadeMade.com
Kits can be made for other pins beyond what is listed there also.
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Are you using some kind of new material for those translucent flipper bats? I ask because I've never seen those hold up for very long even in home use, every set I've ever tried crack.
Quoted from Billy16:I don't know what it is actually called but it is a twist lock plug that is used in construction and I'm sure has other industrial uses. Unless the dude wired it up to 220 it is for normal household current, just like it says.
I don't remember what that style is called but it's usually used for higher current applications, certainly overkill for a pinball machine. As LTG said I'd suspect the plug or the socket are wired incorrectly assuming this game worked before.
Quoted from Jherre6:Does anybody have anti-reflective glass on their game, and does the ball hitting the glass affect it?
Yes and no, the ball hitting it doesn't cause any damage. I personally love anti-reflective glass and think it's well worth it especially now that there are more affordable options available.
Quoted from BentleyBear:Fix one thing and then another problem occurs.
Bad coil mabye ?
The upper flipper feels weak.
The problem is very rarely if ever the coil. Take it apart, clean everything up, replace worn parts including the sleeve if necessary, reasemble with the proper spacing / alignment and see if the problem is resolved. If not try checking / cleaning the flipper switch or opto, make sure it registers properly in switch test, etc.
Quoted from horseflesh:If I'm wrong someone'll come kick my butt here but my memory is the hazards to shoot are varied, yes.
(Haven't played mine in a while because it's down and I've been fixing other games!)
They are randomized, yes and that does vary gameplay quite a bit.
Quoted from aeneas:Yes they rotate with popbumper hits.
If you're almost ready to start multiball and the hazard isn't a good award, shoot the bumpers until 5x playfield is lit
The bigfoot awards rotate with pop bumper hits but always start with the same one (Whirlpool) lit. The shots you need to hit (hazards) to advance the raft do not change until you've achieved them or moved the raft forward via hidden passage, etc but they are random otherwise.
Quoted from mbeardsley:Actually, the first bigfoot award is always Whirlpool mode (not Man Overboard). But yes, the lit hazards are different each game.
I've owned my WH20 since 1996, and have not gotten bored with it. $5K is a good price these days. If it turns out you don't like it (unlikely), you'll easily get your money back (and probably more).
Ah yes, that's right and thanks for correcting me!
Quoted from mbeardsley:He needs to brush his teeth...looks like he just ate a whole box of Oreos.
The campers he ate were not very clean.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:I have an original White Water Topper complete (Dome / arched frame and metal etched decal). Curious what you feel it's worth?
I'll be selling it soon.
Thanks for your input.
Kerry
In this crazy market I think you will find a buyer at or near $1K especially if it's in perfect, non-wrinkled condition.
Quoted from snaroff:Interesting to compare mine with yours. I always thought the bubbles were a defect. Looks like it was part of the design I guess. Yours has almost identical bubbles on the left side.
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No, it was not part of the design and a perfect one does not have the bubble in it. However an OG with a bubble is still way better than any other option developed so far, and possibly forever based on how hard this seems to be to recreate. With a bubble like that I would think you're looking at $500 max but again, who knows what someone may be willing to pay.
I've read of some people having luck using a hypodermic needle to pull the air out and reduce the bubble but I'm not that brave and believe it would still be wrinkled anyway.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Live and learn. I had yet to run into that. I’ve adjusted plenty of flipper switches that weren’t firing right, or needed to be gapped, etc. I wasn’t expecting the opto board to make that much difference, since my flipper was working, it just felt lazy. It was a cheap fix, so I tried it. It hadn’t played well since last year.
Sssshh, be careful saying that a flipper opto board can cause weak flippers, someone will say you're full of crap and that it's just an On/Off switch and can't be the issue. 
Did you try cleaning the optos on the board before replacing it? Sometimes that's enough to fix the issue but I've also see the white interrupters cause the issue.
Quoted from snaroff:My WH20 cabinet was restored/redecaled 12-14 years ago IIRC. Unfortunately, these smart leg protectors didn't exist at the time and I used the awful plastic "protectors" that were awesome at creating leg crinkle Finally decided to fix it and was really pleased with the outcome. Used a hairdryer to peel back the decal and then stretched and ironed out the crinkles by hand (then installed the smart leg protectors). Took 15 minutes and looks much better!
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I need to do the same to mine - the only difference being somone else did all the work and put on the evil "protectors", nice job! How did you iron the decal back down after stretching it?
Quoted from Davi:Flasher circuit works at 20V. Or am I wrong?
I said he needs bulb type 906. Nobody talked about 20V bulb type.
You are not wrong but it caused confusion because then PinballGalore thought he needs 20V bulbs but he doesn't, because they are just pulsed the 12V bulbs work perfectly fine, as you and most of us already know.
Quoted from woody76:Did they advertise it as a original topper? I would get my money back from ebay. I currently have the remake topper on my game. If you mess with the angle of it you can get some reflective activity. I will try to post a pic. I am now not sure I wan to sell. It is such a cool part of the game and it is not in as good of condition as I thought so I would not get as much money for it as I thought.
To paraphrase Barbara Mandrell: Williams did toppers when toppers weren't cool.
Quoted from Pinkitten:For you electronics/circuit repair pros, what would a diode installed backward on a sling switch do when powered on? If other switches are wired in a chain with that backward diode switch, could it damage the other switches in that series?
(I’m just curious, surely this didn’t happen to me!)
It would act like a shorted diode and create a bunch of false switch closures on that row / column. Switches themselves really can't be damaged electrically unless you really run an excessive amount of current through it. The backwards diode should not cause any damage to anything in the game, it just won't play correctly due to all the erroneous switch closures.
Quoted from kryss63:Hello everybody !
I will see a WH2O for sale on Friday.
I'm searching this game since a long time... and it could be the end of a long waiting time.
What are the major points to check on this game?
I know that boulders are broken. I will replace them.
The battery have been moved out of the card so no acid problem.
That's all I know...
It will be my first DOT, and my second pinball (first one is Space Shuttle). I'm excited... and afraid in the same time.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Christophe
Playfield can have planking, insert wear and wear at the lost mine kickout (a sticker to cover this wear is sold). Wear from the ball dropping on the upper playfield is also common. Of course the topper is a big item especially since no one has figured out how to reproduce one.
Quoted from punkin:Just dug out my colordmd kit to install and the only one left is a sam/whitestar kit.
Can anyone tell me the diff tween that and a williams one?
I believe it's the mounting brackets, supplied hardware and cable assemblies.
EDIT: you might be able to purchase the necessary brackets and cables from ColorDMD directly: https://shop.colordmd.com/accessories/
What's the key to adjusting the VUK to the upper playfield so the ball rolls down to the flipper faster? Mine was fine but I had to pull the VUK to replace the plunger and now the ball rolls up the loop quite a bit and it really messes up timing when Multiball starts.
Quoted from DeeGor:I had some in my Whitewater, but ended up taking them out, because it was just too tight and were getting scuffed up every time I lifted the playfield.
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Ended up going with Brian Allen side art instead.
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Surely a set of side protectors would have prevented that??? I always use them on any game with side art, mirror blades, etc. https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
And stop calling me Shirley.
Quoted from Frogroar:Thanks for the pictures! Good point about this game being pretty tight. I love the look of mirror blades though.
I was thinking about getting those. Do they always fit, even when it’s very tight between ramp and mirror?
yes, sometimes you have to kinda work them in between the really tight spots but they will go. My Houdini is incredibly tight because it's an early build where they made the cabinet 1/4" too narrow, not a scuff on the art blades. I put a P-Touch label that says "DON'T LIFT PLAYFIELD WITHOUT PROTECTORS!" on the lockdown bar receiver on any game that has art or mirror blades, just in case I forget.
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