Quoted from DefDumBlindKid:
Look at the gleam on that Mirco Playfield, woot! So happy with the way this H20 turned out
Where did you get those apron cards? Pic of the other side? That looks sharp!
I have a couple of burned out bulbs in the topper. Thinking I read a post about those bulbs being special ones. Anyone have a link to where I can get spares?
Thank you all for the correct bulbs I need and where to get them. This game is pretty darn good. “One more game” feeling is strong on this one
Can anyone provide a definitive answer as to why this rubber ring is here...and should/shouldn’t it be in place? Someone said earlier in this thread that it was placed there on the production line to prevent quick drains. So would this be how they came from the factory? Any info is appreciated.
Quoted from Davi:
Yes, there is a way, with upgraded PCB by GLM.
Too bad GLM has gone the way of AOL and MySpace.....
This game is kicking my tail...the cave kickout is hitting the metal ball guide and sending ball directly to bounce out. No chance of getting the right flipper on it to try and control. Only strategy I have now is to “bump” the game forward, with hopes of getting the ball up to the river targets on kick outs. That’s fine when it’s just one ball and I can focus. But when multiballs are going, it shuts them down in a hurry with drains down the bounce back.
Any suggestions? Where is that cave kickout supposed to be going to?
So the foam pads have helped a lot. The ball still hits the same spot, but with less force. Ball bounces up to around the top of the left slingshot, instead of right down the bounce back lane. I have a chance at doing something with the ball now. Thanks for the tip, delt31!
Blew it up today! Almost half of those 16 Insanity Falls were Triple Jackpots. Was really close to filling all the Vacation Planner
Quoted from Arcade:
Are you using Roms that remember the Class River from ball to ball?
Or did you get advance to class 6 from the mystery?
Or did you do it the hard way, earning it all in 1 ball?
River class usually resets every drain, unless bonus is held. I was just playing along and got to Wet Willies on Ball 2 with two extra balls in pocket. Once I cleared Willie, I stopped to look at Vacation Planner and saw I was at River 6, Willie completed, 3 of 5 boulders, and 2 balls locked. So I started clearing out the last two boulders....but drained. I was very upset knowing I would have to start from river 1 again. But when Ball was ready to go, I checked Planner and o was still at River 6. So it must have been Bonus Held. Then I cleared the boulders and locked the ball and entered Vacation Jackpot!
Quoted from zene10:
Yes. I’ve done replacements on WH2O and WW. I was amazed at the difference. Call outs are clearer (previously sounded muffled & fuzzy). The music sounds great.
There’s enough bass to feel the cabinet vibrate a bit with just the cabinet woofer (used a crossover to balance the cab & panel speakers).
I followed “Tony's Do-It-Yourself Guide to Speaker Replacement on WPC-Era Bally/Williams Pinball Machines”
Any chance you can post a link to it?
Removed dome to replace 3 burned out bulbs...decided to leave it off....it’s like wearing a pair of loose fitting shorts with no underwear on! Haha!
Does anyone else leave their game with the dome off?
Ok...what’s the trick to getting bulbs out of the topper. I have 3 over them burnt out, and they are super snug. I can’t get them pulled out, as I am being overly cautious to not have hand slip and hit the plastic topper. Any suggestions?
Thank you all for the suggestions...most useful idea was Bryan suggesting the use of the shooter rod rubber tip. I now have a fully cascading waterfall....Time to go see Willie!
I put an LED colordmd in and getting lots of light bleed around the edges. Any easy solutions?
Also...does that coloring look correct? I am
Colorblind and need to know if any adjustments need to be made.
I took out the rubber ring that came from the factory between the boulders. Does the post on the left come out too? Or does that post stay with a small ring?
Looks like you left the other post in too. I took that one out. Do you have a rubber on it?
I’m thinking take them both out to achieve the maximum pop bumper action. I did take the far left post out and put a piece of Mylar over the hole. Is Nordman reachable on Pinside? Would love to hear straight from the designer what it was originally intended to be. Could this be the biggest mystery in all of pinball?? Haha!
Quoted from Squeakman:
If I remember correctly someone who worked at Williams said it was put that way because of too many drains down the right outlane. I didn't close mine because I think its cheating and like Blitzburgh says there is not enough pop action.
What did you do with the posts? Leave and put rubber rings on them? Remove completely? Leave in one and remove the other?
Quoted from TheLaw:
Yeah sorry I was on phone in the field. I think the point is there is no definitive answer.
Usually whenever asking something white water related I go with what Jam_Burgler says a few posts down
No worries. I had searched before and couldn’t find anything. So I did another search after you posted thinking i missed it. But came up empty again.
Seems like majority says take out the rubber. When it gets into the take out post(s), it starts getting very muddy.
I decided to give no posts and smallest outlane a try. I reset all of my previous game stats and will compare differences in play over time. Here are my stats from game set up with both posts/rubber ring and outlane all the way open.
Playing last night....started Whirlpool Multi-ball...one ball drains down the middle with enough force that it rolls up the left side and settles in the bounce back, which wasn’t lit. So I take advantage and get a couple of easy jackpots...then the second ball slowly and softly rolls into the boulders ... and it gets ‘stuck’! Eventually, the game goes into ball search and bounce back shoots ball back into playfield. Whirlpool multiball continues!!!!! Love it!!!!!
Ive heard folks say they get tired of hearing the “whee-a-wheet!” sound from No Way Out to the upper flipper. I say, grow some stones and take the Spine Chiller up top!!! Try hitting Insanity Falls from Spine Chiller. That takes some skillz
What is most popular bulb color for GI? My game is all original incandescent, and I love the warm feeling it gives. Also like seeing the little twinkle of light here and there.
I really like the sunlight 2smd from comet in my other games. Wondering what warm white LED might look like. Has anyone installed those in your white water?
I can hit the 3-shot combo bonus once in a while. Has anyone hit a 4- or 5-shot combo?
Quoted from Soulrider911:
Maybe elaborate on why? I love when folks just say “no” or “don’t do that” but never actually elaborate. Have some great reasoning?? Awesome please share
Many reasons, I suppose. I just think the black sets off Insanity Falls best, and the feature of the ball rolling down the left stands on its own for that side. On the other side, most of the side is covered by the upper playfield that it doesn’t add as much as another game would. The dark sides puts more focus on the playfield, like being in a canyon going down a river. Extending the appearance of a wider playfield with mirror blades would take away that effect for me. It’s kinda like painting a ceiling black/dark grey in a game room....gives the impression of more depth to the room/playfield. I dunno...spending the $100 on the new big foot hot foot/spotlight mod would be the better spend for me, I guess.
Quoted from TheLaw:
Missed a few 5x jackpots there Blitz?
That was the only game I played yesterday. Hit one 5x jackpot on a double jackpot. Had two white water multiballs and hit a few of them. No hot foots. Made it to Willie’s and hit the moving shot. Ran through all the boulders twice. Had Vacation Planner complete except for locking three balls again. Set a new Insanity Falls record.
Having a very good, not really great game. No double or triple jackpots and no 5x playfield on white water jackpots...made it to Wet Willie’s. Hit the No Way Out shot and game shuts down like a game resetting issue....then BAM! Vacation Jackpot starts!!!! Wooohooo!!! My third VJ since the game has been in the collection in June. This game is a real adrenaline rush when it’s all cranked up. My third highest score to date.
I need some help...I just got another Vacation Jackpot today...that’s 2 in two days. I’m pretty sure I’m not that good.
I am running ROM LH-5. Is there a bug or something in that ROM set? I ran the River Level up to 6 on first ball by focusing exclusively on doing just that, using multiballs to move rafts and river letters. I had an extra ball. When I drained, the Extra Ball was served and River was still at 6. When I drained the extra ball and ball 2 was served, I expected river to be back to 1. The inserts on the playfield showed back to start of river. But the DMD Vacation Planner had River 6 still completed. I think I had a Bonus Hold somewhere between ball 1, extra ball, and ball 2.
Does anyone know how river 6 can be held over or kept?
Quoted from Elicash:
Cool White, Warm White, or Sunlight?
I was thinking warm since the warmer tone will look nice under the boulders. But then I also thought cool may do better with the blues in the playfield art. Wondering if anyone has strong opinions.
I’ve been kicking this same question around. Mine is full original bulbs and agree the warm tone really is good for the game. I’m a big fan of the 2smd sunlight bulbs installed in my Whirlwind. I’ve played other white waters with cool white and sunlight. For some reason, I feel like the warm incandescnets look better. I’ve been leaning on warm white LEDs, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
Are you getting the LED boards for the inserts too?
Quoted from zene10:
While we're talking about lighting, here's my translite setup with:
• OCDGI, dims translite once start is pressed except for 2 x white LED strips
• Mix of 2SMD Comet warm white and sunlight
• 3 strip of orange (top right)
• 2 x 20 strip of natural white that stay lit when the rest of the translite lighting is dimmed
I'm hoping I win at the rainbow puke club.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Now if you can tie in some lights to turn on behind the big foot in the backglass when your spot light/hot foot mod triggers, that would be cool!
Quoted from GCS2000:
Just surprised at how this game has dried up on the sales floor (and how high its price has gotten)
WH2O is a better player, IMHO, than games (ex. TOM and TOTAN) that regularly sell in the 6k plus range. WH2O is a one of a kind design and definitely will never be duplicated. From what I’ve been seeing, the floor on these in good, shopped condition is a $5k plus venture now. Under $5k, and it’s probably gonna have topper, ramp and/or boulder issues. That’s where I believe the market currently is.
Need a little tech help from my Whitewater brothers.....the topper lights stopped working. What are steps to troubleshoot? Game is completely stock lighting, etc. thank you in advance!
Hit my first 5-way combo and third Vacation Jackpot this past week! Yeee-haaaaa!!!!
Here is a statistical comparison of rubber ring in the boulders (from the factory), versus no rubber ring in Boulder. Approx 6 months of play on each.
I put 5 coats of carnuba wax on my game and the ball is moving super fast now!!! .....broke one of my targets.....Can anyone recommend (or post the link) for the best place to buy replacement Targets?
Quoted from Lermods:
Just finished working on my game and thought I'd share a few pics, a lot was done.
Cleaned and flame polished the ramps, new rubber, cleaned subway, new coil sleeves, warm white LEDs everywhere, mirror blades, color dmd, new front and head decals, rebuilt GI connector and header pins, painted the coin door gloss black, perfect play flipper rubber, external sub hookup, and overall cleaning and vacuuming. Game came out really well and plays perfectly...knock on wood.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Are you going to leave the clear plastic topper dome off of the top? I had mine off for a while and thought it looked good without.
I played with both setups extensively. The game plays way better with out the post and rubber inside the boulders. Take them out, put a piece of Mylar over the screw hole where the post was, and never look back
Quoted from branlon8:
Don‘t you get a lot of right outlane drains? I have been thinking lately about taking the rubber out. This has been discussed at various places in this thread.
What does puzzle me a bit is that there seems to be two switches behind the rubber above the right outline. This little lane is pretty much blocked off because of the rubber so balls only go in there from below on strange bounces. How come the game never gives an error at start up because these switches are rarely activated?
I didn’t notice any difference in outlane drains. I did notice more sound effects from that switch being hit more. Not sure how many games without being hit before the credit dot would appear, but the ball does work it’s way up in there from underneath fairly often. Especially during multiballs, when one might miss seeing it get hit.
Without the rubber installed, the ball does go to the right more towards the outlane. However, most times it shoots the ball back into the center of the playfield, instead of down the Outlane. The pops shoot it off the rubber on the right where the switch is and creates great action.
With the rubber in, and when the ball would go “under” the boulders and hit the installed rubber ring on its bottom side, it would deaden the ball and the ball would slowly trickle to the post between the inlane and outlane. This created a stressful nudging situation that was 50/50 at best. More times than not it would drain out.
Before the “experiment”, I assumed having the rubber ring in would lead to more pop bumper action. Both ways seemed to have about the same pop action.
* With the ring, short, fast ball movement between the pops
* Without the ring, more variety and still fast ball movement.
Having the ring removed gave the game greater ball movement and variety to overall play without any increased frustration with outlane drains. Game is way more enjoyable without the ring.
Quoted from gjm7777:
One day I would like to get this game but considering it's prices I had a few questions for those who have had serious time on the table.
1. In my experiences the game feels heavy right flipper biased, rarely do I seem to use the left except for some up the middle shots, and you pretty much always need to hit insanity falls to get the ball over to the left.
2. For those that no longer have the game (or those that still have but rarely play it) how long before the honeymoon phase wore off and it got stale?
I appreciate the responses!
1. Left flipper is critical to get the extra ball and to relight the kickback with the three standup target on the middle right side. Disaster drop orbit is easier from the left flipper. And only real men can thread the boulders for the right orbit!
Quoted from ALY:
Would anyone have a clue why the left ramp is not registering the shot?
The switch at the ramp start works and the opto behind bigfoot on the exit works too, but Advance Raft light before the ramp doesn't turn off (meaning the shot didn't register).
What about the switch under the boulders where the bracket usually cracks the ramp? Is that switch working ?
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