Looking for a club member willing to leave the club within driving distance of So Cal.

Hot glue will fix just about anything--which is what it looks like was used.

What is the fix for the Lost Mine armature (that doesn't seem to be available anymore--#02-4672)? A real old post I found said to use the upper playfield kick-out armature and cut it down--but did not mention if you would still screw the cup onto the cut-down plastic tip. Any suggestions?

Thanks, I have not used those guys, I'll give them a try.

Everything I ordered that was listed as "in stock" on their website was packed and shipped today. Quick and efficient service if nothing else.

Could someone tell me if the Disaster Drop switch is the one visible in the upper LH corner? I am not registering a lot of loops through here. Thanks.

Thanks for the answer. I probably inadvertently cleaned the optos yesterday when I cleaned all that I could find while I had the hood up--I'll check them in the switch test.

So, the parts I ordered from Action Pinball came today, cool. I put the new (and correct) armature into the coil, buttoned everything up and played a game. The optos were not recognizing the ball--no kickout from the Lost Mine. Looked to see what was going on--the "correct" armature was too long and the ball never broke the optos. Weird. So I took it apart and drilled a hole into the old (and shorter) armature, screwed a cap onto the end and so far it works great. Seems all the "incorrect" armature needed was a cap on the end to make it work a lot better. Any ideas of what is going on with this part number--doesn't make a lot of sense unless it is a mistake in the manual.

So last nite ol' BF stops working right (again), I check the switches and find the one on the ramp has totally broken off. I recall reading about the plastic cover fix, so I spent most of the afternoon dorking with a sheet of lexan cutting it out, sanding, fitting, re-cutting, drilling, etc. Of course the first two broke while cutting--then it's a white-knuckler drilling the holes when you finally do get a good one. First practice hole I drilled shattered a piece of scrap--good thing I got that out of the way. If anyone has a good way to cut this stuff--please LMK.

Works great--well, it did after I soldered the switch wire back on that I broke while maneuvering the assembly around...

Thanks to the Pinsiders who posted this fix previously!
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One can only hope...

I use Plexus on my ramps and bowl. Any good spray plastic polish/wax will probably do the same job. Honda makes a great spray plastic polish that is a little cheaper. It will add some time to the bowl until the wax wears off, then you hit it with another coat in a week or two. Rinse and repeat...

Cool, glad you liked it. Keep that can handy, as if you want top speed from your ramps and bowl you'll be using it often.

I recall reading several posts about glueing the fur back onto BF without seeing a good answer. I tried some Scotch tacky glue that I bought at Michael's--one of the many craft glues they have that claim to work on "fabric, metal, paper, wood, fairy dust", etc. Well, it actually worked--even though it did not seem like it was going to stick at first. Let it dry for 24 hrs--everything I tried to glue down was solidly attached. If it does not last I'll report back.

Fabric glue is amazing stuff and really works--used it on a rip in a couch and it was hardly noticeable after it dried.

Need a little help with a flasher location. While doing the flasher test I come to "Bigfoot Body (2)". I only am seeing one flasher go off in the backbox. It looks like there is a flasher #17 somewhere near the actual bigfoot (per the manual), but i can't seem to find it. Could someone take a photo of the location for me? Best way to change this bulb? Thanks.

Thank you. It seems to me I had this plastic off before--maybe I was not looking for a flasher at that time and didn't notice it. I'll take another look today.

Found it this time, thanks again.

I can try to tell you where it goes, as I just found mine recently. It mounts under the upper playfield with a screw and is located under the large plastic that semi-surrounds BF. You'll never get it re-attached in the original spot without some disassembly. I'd make sure it works, and affix it as best you can somewhere under that plastic (until you really want to take the upper playfield off).

So if I understand correctly, if you have 5X running as you start multiball there is no reason to try for a double or triple jackpot--just hit the singles?

One of my topper chase lights is out, and it isn't a bulb issue. I reflowed the solder on the socket as it was really dull looking, that didn't help. I replaced the socket, no luck. Can I swap the connector over from the other board to see if that will light up all the chase lights without harming anything. Seems like I should be able to do that, but wanted to check first.

Unless something has changed, it is not a donation but a set price of 20 Euros. I'm not sure that the code has been completed.

Anyone have a tip or an adjustment that will keep the ball from going SDTM after passing thru the secret passage?

i can see how this would help move the ball.

Hmm...not a bad idea to make the table tilt just a smidge to keep the ball from coming right back down the middle.

Somehow I hit the Vacation Jackpot last nite, but don't know how I did it. I thought I had missed my chance (as the Wet Willie mode seemed to be over and all the rafts re-set), but I hit one more shot and boom! This has to be the best payoff sequence ever--what a trip! I could not even describe all that went on I was so surprised by it--hope I can bumble my way thru it again!

Has anyone had an issue with the kickback armature breaking? I snapped my second one right at the pin today (where the plastic meets the metal). The first one was probably the original, but the replacement is a week old.

Also having an issue with the ball not wanting to rack properly after a drain. Sometimes it takes two or three tries to move the ball before it resets properly. Put in a new armature/link and a sleeve, but that didn't really help. Ideas?

OK, thanks.

Thanks. I can't figure out any reason for them to be breaking other than a bad batch. Marco is sending me a new plastic and roll pin, hopefully that will last awhile.

Anyone have a good guess as to what percentage or Whitewater pins do not have an original topper?

.

Thanks for that photo, my game is missing the metal form that sits inside the subway altogether--I'll have to try and find one.

I'm getting ready to order a new whirlpool ramp to replace my cracked one. Does anyone who has taken the upper playfield off have suggestions as to what I might need to replace once I get going on this (posts, or other hardware?)--be nice to have it handy rather than have to re-order and wait. Thanks.

If anyone who has taken off the upper playfield has any tips on the easiest way to put things back together--that would be cool. Figured as long as I was at it I took off all the ramps to clean everything. Glad I did, should play a lot better after it all goes back together.

Thanks for that, #4 and #7 were just what I needed to see.

Thanks for looking this up, I just checked and I am also missing this gate.

Does anyone know the part number for the upper playfield post that divides the Bigfoot Bluff and Insanity Falls ramps? I can't find it shown in the manual. I stripped the mounting screw for the whirlpool sign that screws onto it (the last thing I had to do to finish my upper playfield rebuild...). Thanks.

Thank you! I'm betting (hoping) it threads into a T-nut? Uh oh, I found a photo of a used upper playfield and it looks like it is a regular nut--bummer.

This.

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My Yeti has decided he only wants to spin in one direction. Anyone have ideas of what I should check to try and convince him to spin both clockwise and counter clockwise?

Thanks, I cleaned the optos but no luck. I'm guessing to test them I'd remove the board, turn the game on and pass a card thru them in the switch test mode?

Thanks, the optos test good in that test. Can't get the head spin to reverse in the CW/CCW test. Any ideas of what to check since it isn't a bad opto?

No newly disconnected connectors, but I am going to take a look at the bi-directional driver board. Thanks for the tips.

If anyone has a nice speaker panel they really don't need please send me a PM. Mine has a big long scratch in it that is very annoying.

Any ideas of what to look for to fix this? I was playing today and in the middle of a ball many of the insert lights went wonky and stayed on when they should have been off--and vice-versa. Shut the machine off, turned it back on and many of the insert lights were solidly lit instead of going into attract mode.

Thank you. Electrics are not my strong suit, I'm guessing that one transistor controls several lights on a circuit? Quite a few are locked on, and it will not go into attract mode at all.

I opened up the backbox and reseated a few connectors after not finding any obviously blown components. Now everything is back to normal. Have no idea of what was going on or how it is now working...hope it stays this way.

I agree and also kept incandescents in my CFTBL just cause they looked so good, just like they do in WH2O.

I don't know what it is actually called but it is a twist lock plug that is used in construction and I'm sure has other industrial uses. Unless the dude wired it up to 220 it is for normal household current, just like it says.

Next time someone dusts the top dome of the topper could you take a photo of where the reflective tape goes--I still can't picture it.

Yes, a thread search can be helpful, but I could not find any photos trying to do that. Then again, I did not think to check the saved thread photos... Thanks for your post and observations.

Ohhh...that photo of the foil tape placement makes a lot more sense--think I'll give it a try. Thanks for the photo.