(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

8 years ago

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  • 6,125 posts
  • 532 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by tonyf1965
  • Topic is favorited by 249 Pinsiders


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#590 6 years ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

Here's a couple of photos of my arctic White Water, enjoy!

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looks great. Are there any white boulder sets floating around. Shopping a WH20 for a friend and they look nice.

7 months later
#1149 6 years ago

I d like to get back in club if your selling near MD let me know

#1150 6 years ago

Joining club on Friday. Who sells the little yellow raft mods. Seen them mounted on left side and above the whirlpool

#1155 6 years ago

Thanks gac. I don't want to over mod wh20. But that mountain with the led eyes and the rafts look great. Color Dmd if budget allows

#1158 6 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

My votes go to the Bigfoot Spotlight and the Color DMD.

who sells bigfoot light mod? color choice?

#1162 6 years ago

who sells the little round overlay for mine kick out wear?

#1167 6 years ago

I know some hate leds. I'm curious on the Bigfoot spot mod if most are leaving incandescent or changing to led ? Color choice ?

#1170 6 years ago

Comet Maximus are great spots. Warm or sun would prob look great

#1177 6 years ago

Yeah worst mod in pinball

1 week later
#1209 6 years ago

Re-joined the club last night...I need to check the flipper coils. Mine are so strong the ball goes flying off the green stand ups...looks like the manual calls for FL-116289. How are these in the game? I def need to check mine but want a littel less power on mine.

Plunger spring. On Wh20 this seems critical. What spring do most prefer?

#1215 6 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

Hey Mike - From one of Lloyd's posts on RGP:
Lower left: FL-15411 (orange)
Lower right: FL-11629 (blue)
Upper right: FL-11630 (red)

Thanks Ian. Mine are correct but the ball goes flying off the green stand ups...Feels like when I play IJ

#1216 6 years ago

Mine has traditional switch and ramp has holes. Of course they are cracked and destroyed

#1220 6 years ago

gonna replace my ramps. Anyone have a picture guide of getting ramps back together. Never torn down a Wh20 and looks a little confusing getting ramps back right

#1224 6 years ago

Im sure once ramps are out I can just put back in reverse.

Looked for this on other threads. Best way to clean a rusty ramp flap?

#1232 6 years ago

Thanks Ian. Getting A nos set. Look perfect except one flap

1 week later
#1243 6 years ago

Just received an order from pinball life. Don't feel like anew order. Anyone have a set of the see thru green Stand up targets to sell

#1262 6 years ago

Just put new ramps on. What 2 screws are used to connect Bigfoot cave ramp to the small ramp that feeds right flipper? Thought I recall black plastic rivets instead of screws I have temp screw for the pic


#1265 6 years ago

Yeah I just put one in for reference. Was not sure if it needed wood screw or one with nut on the end

#1267 6 years ago

Yeah but have seen it several ways. Think I prefer the plastic rivet or scree with nyloc nut

#1280 6 years ago

It's all personal opinion. I added one spotlight. A small blue led strip by flippers. Mostly clear bulbs, blue by ramps and some Amber by mountains





#1282 6 years ago

Great job fifty quid

Can someone post the thread where s bunch of guys had pics of the rubber posts they play on the witeform to get the balls to exit faster. Thanks !

#1285 6 years ago

Last few tweaks. Upper flipper shooting right side ramp to Whirlpool I am getting rejects half the time. It's hitting the metal switch bracket mounted on top of ramp. The ramp def generates some ball lift. Any solutions?

#1287 6 years ago

that makes sense! perfect

#1289 6 years ago

awesome thanks! free fixes are great!

1 year later
#2066 5 years ago

Tech help. Shopping a wh20 for a friend. When the ball launches to upper pf on this one the Opto bracket is to the left of where it lands on Mini pf. It looks like it should be mounted to the right of where it lands Pics attached Used high end pins pic since his is beautiful



#2068 5 years ago

Thanks jam. Last dumb question. I don't see any holes In metal for Opto beam to reach each side. What am I missing ? There are no holes or openings in either metal guide

#2069 5 years ago

I can see on one side the ball guide is raised so beam goes under it bit the receiver ball guide is solid

#2073 5 years ago

Thx. What is the switch number so I can look at where is usually is mounted. Thx

#2074 5 years ago

Jam. Thx. I looked at your pic on post 1223 that is where I am moving the Opto bracket. But there is no hole for the receiver Opto. Isn't this Opto bracket on all wh20 ? Don't think my ramp has Optos.

#2077 5 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

I think you may have an early production White Water. One way to tell is to look at the upper playfield just to the right of (behind) the upper flipper. If it's yellow there, instead of blue, you have an early production game. One difference between the early production games and the later production games is how that opto at the switch behind Bigfoot is set up.
On the early production games, the optos were attached to the ramp as shown on the ramp to the right in post 1212 (page 25) of this thread. The later production-style ramp is shown on the left in that same picture (note the lack of optos attached to the ramp on the left). The later production models also have cut-outs in the ball guides behind bigfoot to allow for the updated opto placement so the beam can pass through. The early production models don't have these cutouts so the opto won't work in that spot.
So here's the thing, the reproduction ramps that you can buy for White Water are all modeled after the later-production (no opto) style ramp. My bet is that you have an early production model White Water. Somebody replaced the original ramp (with the optos attached) with the later-style reproduction ramp (no tabs to attach the optos). In doing so they no longer had a way to mount those optos in the original configuration. Therefore, they got a bracket from the later style model and put it in that unorthodox spot because it won't work on your model in the regular spot.
I think you have a few options. If the optos are working in that spot, you can leave them there. If you want to keep the game more original you can fashion a way to attach the optos to the reproduction ramp in a similar way to how they are shown in post 1212 (page 25). Or, you can try to tack down some of the new-style ball guides with the cutout for the opto beam and replace your original ones with those. The ball guides may be tough to find.
I'm not sure whether the placement of the opto before the VUK kickout on the early production models (instead of after the VUK kickout on the later models) is of any consequence. It's possible that later software relies on the opto being after the VUK but I've never heard of anyone saying that's a problem.

Jam thanks for explanation. Yes yellow on upper pf. Exactly what I thought. When the Op moved the opto it would never work because the is not opening for left side beam. He prob just did not care....This game is pretty rough. My only real option is to mount it to the right of the vuk and drill a nice 3/8 hole right at the beam location.

My question is did they update code? Seems it would roll past that opto every time ball enters upper pf from that vuk and then roll to the right and trigger it?

#2093 5 years ago

How hard are toppers to get these days? The dome is like $60. Replica waterfall avail?

#2105 5 years ago

I'm fixing up a wh20 for Local pinsider. Anyone selling in md area? Would not mind getting one back again.

#2112 5 years ago

Anyone know of a parted wh20? Need this switch assembly and wire harness

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#2116 5 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

Hey Mike,
If you can't find a used assembly this is pretty easy make. You can get the bracket from Mantis (http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm) and Marco and a few others sell them too (Part #01-9476-2). The switch is common (#5647-12693-21) and the rest is just screws, wire and a 2 pin Molex connector.

Thx Ian. My buddy just ordered bracket. Rest at Marco

#2119 5 years ago

anyone have a spare boulder shooter rod? Otherwise Ill look around on line for one...

#2122 5 years ago
Quoted from mwong168:

I totally forgot but on top of the boulder shooter, Brock also made a new Wet Willies shooter rod too. He shipped it to me a few weeks ago. Here is what it looks like:

Thanks. Just ordered the Boulder shooter

#2124 5 years ago

How popular is the 3d backglass? Pricey but looks cool

#2126 5 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

Its awesome!!!! I would send pics but as many have said the pics don't do it justice at all.

whats the US price...260?

#2155 5 years ago

I have a flipper button led set from coin taker thats about 6 months old...Cant see where to get 12v. It mentions the board below the left flipper but all the connections are used. Any other easy place grab 12v?

#2157 5 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

They draw so little you should be able to tap off the 12v from one of the leads on the coin door board.

That's what it says. But where ?

1 week later
#2187 5 years ago
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:

Couldn't believe how much the Big Foot lighting Mod cost is.
Anyway I'm in the process of producing the same thing only different.
It will be a simple 555 timer circuit on a separate small board. This board will not piggy back on the Motor driver board.
While the piggy back idea might be neat. I believe it will result in fatigue cracks on the header connector over time.
I bought a 555 Timer board from CDS here in Australia. His website says you can custom change the board layout.
So first up I will get it working then I will get the board design changed to suit the application. The 555 Timer board comes with an activation LED and relay to control the Light on off. The current board doesn't allow for a 555 timer reset, but that's an easy change.
One of my only concerns is the mounting of the board in a suitable location without the need to modify the machine (IE drilling holes ETC)
The Board only costs $12.50 AUD or less than $10 USD. Not including the spot light.
Anywho when I get it working I will provide details of how and what ETC.
Here is the standard board I have bought for trialing
Can anyone tell me if the current mod works correctly during Hotfoot?

Ill take one! LMK when finished.

#2188 5 years ago

I posted this on a tech thread but the rough wh20 I'm bringing back to a life has a strange Backbox flasher issue...Ill post it here too. Gonna try and work on it this weekend.

Game has all new boards. I like solving probs but this one stumps me. hoping its something obvious. In switch test mode I noticed every time I triggered a coil switch all of the LED flashers in the backbox fired. Very weird. slings, pops up kickers all cause flashers to go off. In coil test any coil that fires also makes bb flashers flash

Looked over manual in solenoid section 3-9 and connectors all seem correct. Any ideas?

#2190 5 years ago
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:

I would pay particular attention to the Ribbon Cable between the Driver Board and CPU board. Re seat this cable and make sure it's on correctly.
If it's only the Backglass Raft & Backglass Riders then I would suspect U4 on driver board.
If it's ALL the flashers going off, I would suspect your machine could do with Driver board Capacitor replacement (15,000Uf Caps)
Also make sure the Boards are screwed down properly...The PCB's get the Main Earthing through these screws.
Check again the following connectors on the Driver board again headers J107. J106, J126, J125, J127,J128
I'm willing to have a stab in the dark here and say you have J125 & J127 swapped around.
When you say all new boards, are they reproduction boards? IE Rottendog Driver board? In which case what Revision is it.
If it's and old original driver board, I would strongly suggest a blanket Electrolytic capacitor change as well as C31 (100uf Cap) on the CPU board. Bad Capacitors will give you all sorts of grief.

Thanks for your help. Problem was very stupid. LEDs caused it. Reg flashers don't. Something about diodes on the board for those flashers in bb

#2195 5 years ago

How much in US? What is vat ?

1 week later
#2202 5 years ago
Quoted from pincrazzzy:

I ended up making my own. I had a cracked back mountain so I heated it up, cut it and bent it to the shape I wanted. I attached it with a little metal bracket. Looks better in person.

pincrazzy...are you talking about the lost mountain mod? I have an extra back mountain too. Would love to see what part you cut out and how you did it...

#2211 5 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Did you use an extra/new backboard mountain and used only the middle section and create the lost mountain? If I understand.

yeah the pics help but cutting the back boulder looks a little confusing to get it to sit just right. ANy more details would help

#2213 5 years ago

thx....need to see about finding a mini a propane torch. I think your pic with taped area is pretty clear which area you cut

#2216 5 years ago
Quoted from pincrazzzy:

Propane torch might be to hot I used a butane torch.

that's what I meant

1 year later
#2771 3 years ago

Any wh20 sellers in MD/PA/Va?

#2779 3 years ago

Anyone ready to leave the club. I have a nice tron to trade. In MD. Thx

1 week later
#2804 3 years ago

Have a few Wh20 leads but anyone on here local to MD that wants to trade toward a Tron shoot me a PM .

1 month later
#2848 3 years ago

anyone leaving the club let me know..Have a few pins I can trade.

5 months later
#3003 3 years ago

Looking for a nice used dome topper. LMK if you have one and price. thx

2 months later
#3064 3 years ago

anyone leaving the club in md/pa/va area shoot me a pm.

2 weeks later
#3167 3 years ago

Anyone still making the missing boulder?

also the round mine pf decal. bought one a few years ago but forgot where

#3169 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I am in for a Mine playfield decal as well.
If I remember correctly the shipping for it was crazy if you were not getting a large order to throw it in with.

little shop of games has them for 7.50..ridiculous when you add shipping

#3171 3 years ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

I have a mould for a missing mountain. Pm me if interested in a missing mountain.

pm sent.

Also found the $7 grizzly bear that goes over the left ramp...anyone make a bracket or just mount to the existing gate that goes over left ramp?

1 week later
#3188 3 years ago

Picked up a very nice Wh20....Its shopped and cleaned up but cant get a glass tap on Insanity falls. Ive waxed upper pf and the ramp is new. Not sure how much pitch would effect it but my levelers are about half way up. Upper flipper is aligned so its a smooth transition form ball guide. Only thing I can think of new plunger/sleeve for flipper? Maybe that would clean up and slop in the flipper power. Anyone else have a fix for theirs?

#3200 3 years ago

anyone buy the 4” bear for left ramp? how did you mount it over ramp to cover switch. custom bracket ? not sure best way to do it. thx

#3204 3 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Finally in the club!!! So excited I have been wanting a WW for a long time. Picked one up at an auction and it had the topper!! Going to be my next restoration project

congrats. you helped me with my FT. I’ll be watching what you do on your wh20. great pin. start off with the boulder shooter

#3213 3 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

best way to mount it is not in the game.

It just covers the ramp gates and switch cover...looks kind of cool.

#3214 3 years ago

yep I sent him his info. Hope he has 1 left.

#3225 3 years ago
Quoted from Nightmare:

Where's the best place to pick up a Dome Topper for this machine? Mine is cracked and would like to replace it. I'm seeing based off of a google search that little shop has the best price.

That's where I bought mine for a FT...shipping was slow but best deal anywhere.

#3239 3 years ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

this is great news! pm sent

just ordered too.

2 years later
#5970 70 days ago

Anyone leaving the club near MD. I have a Totan, IM pro or JP pro to trade.....

#5974 68 days ago

Pin prices are al over the place. What’s a fair price for a nice original wh20. No leds but ramps and everything else look great. Has topper and nice cabinet. Thx

#5984 67 days ago

thx for all the price feedback...

#5998 66 days ago

Ill find out more later but game I may get gives a sound rom error message. Who sells sound roms for Wh20? thx....thinking it just one chip?

2 weeks later
#6024 50 days ago

Joining the club as soon as I find one local. Couple questions:

Which speaker light kit do I buy for Wh20.
Best color dmd?
Ill prob add the skull mountain and the bigfoot lighting.


2 weeks later
#6034 32 days ago

going to buy some mods for my new wh20...lmk if anyone has a skull mountain, boulder shooter rod or the alt translite they bought and never installed

#6067 28 days ago

Anyone know where I can buy a Boulder shooter rod? Seem to be non existent

#6070 28 days ago
Quoted from Zartan:

I still haven’t found one….

With all the shooter rod mods I’m surprised too

#6075 27 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Thank you. It's a little different looking but I may give it a shot.

Can you buy just the rod? Wish there was an English conversion. Buy a few and save shipping? .

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