Livermore, CA
Sanity check pls: Would a repro topper decal devalue an otherwise pristine collector quality WH20?
(Topic ID: 57710)
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White Water
Williams, 1993
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1 week later
Super stoked to finally be in this club. When I wasnt in the market for a new pin I was seeing WH20 ads left and right.. then of course, as soon as I am ready to buy.. crickets. Ended up grabbing this great players condition machine only an hour away at a really good price. I'm planning to enjoy it for a while and then possibly do a full restore.
20190419_211523 (resized).jpgif anyone happens to have a spare set of boulders (NOS or Repro full set) they are looking to part with, PM me. thnx 
Quoted from J67ab:I was told at the Texas Pinball show that bolder sets would be out in 6 weeks per Starship Fantasy. So that would technically be 2 weeks away? I hope.
Thanks! I figured I would email Larry@starship, he responded just now 6 - 8 weeks. I'm just glad he is making more, I wont be tearing this thing down for a rebuild for at least a few months or so. Just going to enjoy it as is for now.
Quoted from yzfguy:Anyone know if the sticker is available that covers the wear on the playfield near the mine kick out?
Here ya go
3 weeks later
Quoted from jkashani:Any recommendations for an LED kit? Cointaker, vs. Marco vs. others? Also, recommendations for lighting up the rear boulder area?
Thanks
I'm curious as well. I'm assembling the parts needed to do a full restore and I feel lighting is definitely something I need to address. I was thinking of putting RGB LED strips (both pointing up and down) under all boulders and then just play around with programming them to see what looks good.
As for LED kits, my .02, I'm just not into them. After doing several LED conversions I have my own preferences now on color matching, warmth, etc etc. But it's always nice to know how many you need of each type of bulb, etc etc. I will say this, vendor wise, Comet's are my preference.
Quoted from Marvin:this is super easy, other than white, it will all look like shit.
RE: LED strips under bounders -> I was thinking some variation of white (not sure on color temp) facing up, with possible some colors facing down (in the areas where there are openings, ramps, "cave" etc)
Quoted from arcadenerd925:RE: LED strips under boulders -> I was thinking some variation of white (not sure on color temp) facing up, with possible some colors facing down (in the areas where there are openings, ramps, "cave" etc)
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:LEDs in the inserts turn out okay but even then I would only go there with the LEDOCD board. The sequencing of the lights is not right without it. I did lots of experimentation to find color combinations I'm happy with. It all depends on the insert. For GI I think you're asking for trouble using LEDs (unless you get a GI OCD board). LOTS of fading going on with this game which will be totally destroyed if you put LEDs in the GI or backbox without proper control of the LED fading. With the GI, you need to be subtle. A lot of people kill the game with too much blue. I actually put some aqua incandescents in some upper playfield spots on mine and that works but LEDs were way too strong. Much safer to stick with a sunlight if you go LED and ONLY (ONLY!) if you have GI LED board.
It's just too dark to me. Next to my TSPP which is bright and colorful I just dont like it. When I play with the lights down or off, too hard to see, etc.
This game is a keeper for me, so I have no issue forking out the $$$ for both OCD boards.
Got my mirco order in the other day. It got held up in customs, what a PITA (I had to contact fedex and give them a better explanation of what the contents were).
PF is gorgeous. Gave it a thorough look over for any issues and I can't find anything to gripe about so far (only one small minor "low spot" in the clear on the upper PF where the ball wont hit).
Rad cals look awesome, looking forward to giving that a try.
Now to assemble the rest of the parts needed. blarg.
20190520_111636 (resized).jpg20190520_111652 (resized).jpg20190520_113406 (resized).jpg20190520_113418 (resized).jpg20190520_114840 (resized).jpg20190520_114941 (resized).jpgQuoted from Arcade:Finally got tired of my Whitewater sound board quitting during a game randomly, so I ordered a Pinsound plus from K’s Arcade. Any tips or tricks from any of you that have done the same?
Or do I simply just plug this in, download the sound rom and enjoy better sound.
Let us know how it goes, this is one I would be curious to try as well. (never installed one so unfortunately I'm no help on your question)
Quoted from mbaumle:Let us know how it goes! I got rad cals for my AFM, and I'm a bit nervous to install them.
Will do. I will create a restore thread once I assemble all the parts (and post link here), but that is probably roughly 2 months out.
3 weeks later
I was thinking of doing something similar when I restore mine next month. Did you just use an LED strip?
2 months later
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:Hey everyone just thought I would let you know starship fantasy has boulder sets in stock finally. Better grab a set before they disappear again, i'm sure these are gonna go very quickly.
Thanks for posting! just grabbed myself a set.
A few other things on my pending resto:
Armor: learning towards chrome but I am intrigued my some of the custom powder coat jobs I've seen (I have already been talked out of doing white, heh). Anyone have any good pics to sway me one direction or another?
Mirror blades: look good on Wh20?
Quoted from jawjaw:Perfect. Thanks for the link.
Mine kept coming loose (probably slightly stripped), so I ended up grabbing ones slightly bigger from the HW store.
Quoted from J67ab:I swapped them on the side and the back, but I swapped the original back in(no damage) as the colors looked better, so all new in the front and sides and the stock OG in the back, I have a blue led strip on the back that makes the ramps look like there is blue water.
Finally got the mantis protectors in. Upper playfield cleaning and tear down will be next. I went floating on the Colorado in Moab,UT this summer, the whole game reminds me of the experience.[quoted image]
Where did you put the blue strip in the back? I really like how it makes the ramps look.
Quoted from J67ab:Thanks! So I bought from Cometpinball.com a matrix quick connect bayonet frosted bulb. I’m using the GI socket that is back right on the elevated playfield, put a blue bulb condom on it and the adhesive 3 or 10 blue frosted led strip stuck on the wood playfield end kinda towards the middle of the area. I’ll take a picture for you after work.
Thanks! pictures would be awesome. I am going to be tearing my WH20 down soon for a restore and I am trying to plan things out.
Quoted from Sgtmax:Anyone know the best place to buy a new playfield?
to my knowledge, only Mirco is producing these:
I bought a set a few months back and will be swapping it in the coming months when i restore mine.
Quoted from JimFNB:And if you’re following the JJP pf threads and wondering, the mirco wh20 pf looks great. At least on mine (not yet installed), the clear looks and feels solid and fully cured. I couldn’t press my fingernail into it like some can on their JJP or stern pf.
Yeah mine looks great too. I pressed my finger nail into that damn thing as hard as I could. I could see (but barely feel) the faintest indentation, couldn't see it unless I held the PF in the light at an angle. Seems pretty solid to me. My Funhouse PH I got from Mirco was solid as well.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I added a 4$ strip light in the trough from comet, and a RGB light strip for the back wall from someplace else (can't remember). The Comet strip light in the bottom was easy to install and worked great. I'd get the comet brand backlight next time for the rear above the mountains. All other lights replaced by Comet 2 SMD LEDs to include the flashers... excepting the topper lights. The topper lights are actually 14v and you will melt normal LEDs if you toss them up there.
For the GI, I am assuming 2SMD Frosted Cool/Natural White's?
I like the look! has me amped to get my resto going.
Quoted from JimFNB:If you want to keep the dimming effects with leds then you need both LED OCD and GI OCD, right?
Correct. some games need it, others dont (though that is personal preference). When I re-did funhouse, it totally needed the LED OCD (I left out the GI). When I re-did TZ the LED strobing wasnt bad at all so I didnt feel it was needed. I don't play in a dark room, so the lack of GI dimming doesnt really bother me.
I will probably wait until I am done with my WH20 resto and see if it needs it.
F114 is the lamp matric
F115 is the switch matrix
Unfortunately you are going to have to go hunting for a loose wire or miss-connection.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Soulrider911:After over a year, Two brand new cabinets, having to drill the playfield holes (not fun)... moment of truth...
And the playfield fits and glass clears !!!![quoted image]
Congrats! nearly there!
3 weeks later
Quoted from yaksplat:Hey, I like that! Now that I've gotten my feet wet going through a couple of other games top to bottom, I may do the same with my Whitewater. It could use some fixes and cleanup.
I like the ceiling modification too. I have to do that in my dad's basement for whirlwind.
Yeah I really like the clear bodies in the pops too, I think I am going to do that on mine as well. Thanks for sharing!
2 weeks later
Quoted from jawjaw:Here are some pics to give you an idea of what I did. The bigfoot spotlight mod had a bracket that mounted on the wireform. It was used to mount the spotlight but also perfect for adding another socket to light the boulder.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sorry if I have already asked this above/before. lol. those look great. are those comet strips?
2 months later
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:No that piece of metal is a knockout piece off the back of a card slot on a pc. Totally missing the original bracket
The piece on top of the knockout IS the bracket 
you're set.
1 week later
Quoted from Mando:5K , 6K ?
If you ask 10 people, your going to get 10 different #'s
Best place to start is: https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/white-water and look at the average, currently $5,090 - $5,910
Another good place to look is at archived market ads to see the various prices and conditions and locations.
From there it really depends on where you are at. Out here in CA, so you will see that price jump a little bit higher for a WH20 in nice condition with a good looking topper.
For me, If I am going to pay market average for one it's gotta have a topper. I would also be fine buying one without, but I would pay $700 - $800 less.
I was lucky that I got mine last year for far cheaper, but it was a players that needed some minor repairs (but had a great looking topper)
alright fellow wh20 owners. I nearly have all the parts needed for my restore. The last thing to sort out is the armor.
I was originally thinking of doing powder coated white but have since been talked out of it, heh.
Then I was leaning towards chrome (did my FH in chrome and I love it)
But my wife thinks we should do like a light blue powder coat.
Anyone feel like sharing any pics of theirs?
Much appreciated.
Quoted from PolePosition:I've always thought a translucent blue over chrome would look cool.
This ^^ I was thinking the same thing. Just not sure if I'm feeling a powder coated blue that matches the paint/decals. (just my personal .02)
Quoted from tac007:Then I was leaning towards chrome (did my FH in chrome and I love it)
But my wife thinks we should do like a light blue powder coat.
Mine come with all blue armor and coin door and legs.
Iv since changed to all chrome.
Looks much nicer[quoted image][quoted image]
Are those mirror blades? how do you like them on this title? that is the next thing for me to ponder.
Thanks for all the oppinions (and picture tac007!)
The great thing about this kinda stuff is that there is no wrong way as long as you like it. I agree, some options can potentially reduce game value, but in my case wh20 is a keeper. It's not going anywhere any time soon, if I am gonna tear this damn thing apart and put all this work in to it I know I'm not getting that money back. I just want to feel the same way about wh20 that I do about my FH.
Quoted from Elicash:If you do chrome I beg you please don’t chrome the coin door.
Dammit! I was just looking at the FH and was lamenting that the only non-crome part was the coin door and that maybe I should take the plunge. lol.
Quoted from Willys45:Chrome w/ mirror blades. White mountains which I like but some people are iffy on the color.[quoted image]
Nice! very polished. My wife is into the white mountains but me not as much. Regardless that is an awesome machine. I like the mirror blades, for whatever reason I just cant get in to the art blades on this title. Thanks for sharing.
1 week later
Quoted from mystman12:Any recommendations on how to go about fixing this? The screw that was there just came out in the middle of a game and I know the hole is completely stripped. Normally I'd just fill it and drill a new, centered hole, but the current one is so close to the edge of the playfield that it's begun breaking through the side. If I try hammering a wooden skewer into the hole with wood glue it's just going to end up breaking out the side. I also don't believe that the screw that was there was original. Any thoughts?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I had the same prob, I took the lazy way out and took the screw to the hardware store and just got a slightly bigger screw (depends on how damaged it is though)
2 months later
Quoted from daveyvandy:Thanks! It was expensive but this game is worth it. Thanks for pointing out the missing screw, I'm actually missing the nut for it. The screw is in my cabinet, been like that since I took it home. I figure once I get the skull mod (currently in the mail system somewhere) installed, I'll fix that screw and nut.
How was the fit on the ramps? did you have to grind anything down or adjust anything to get them in?
Going to be headed this way myself next month.
3 weeks later
Quoted from woody76:I think chrome looks the best, DO NOT DO WHITE. I picked up a beater that had a black playfield. Ended up cleaning up nicely.
Agree, my wife wanted to do white but I talked her out of it. I was going to do chrome but she really wanted powder coated blue. We decided to compromise and do a blue "candy chrome". I haven't put it on yet but probably will early next week as I am restoring mine right now (documented here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-my-second-restoration-attempt)
1 month later
Alright club, I could use another pair of eyes on this issue. I am wrapping up my restoration and I am finding that when whirlpool is lit, I am getting phantom whirlpool mode starts.
Some things to note:
- When I get a phantom whirlpool mode start, the big foot diverter does not fire. So I feel like that rules out both switches associated with the upper whirlpool ramp.
- The above lead me to wonder if the issue is where the ball drops into the subway and trips the opto. Upon inspection, the metal piece where the opto is attached seems to not be very secure, so I used a zip tie to better hold it in place:
However, the issue still persisted. I did some more play testing and found that hitting it in the pops and the slings seemed to draw the most phantom whirlpool mode starts.
Next, I unplugged the above noted opto and play tested again. The issue stopped.
Dirty opto? This thing did sit in my parts bin for a month in the garage.
Let me know if there is anything else I should consider. Will try cleaning them tomorrow.
Quoted from TheLaw:Well it's obviously the opto. Look at the connections, Make sure the solder isn't screwy on there and not touching. Clean the optos.
But why is the metal piece loose? That woudl make me think it's moving around when it shouldn't be doing weird shit...like when the pop vibrate it
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:Agree with TheLaw that it's probably an opto. You may need to get into some switch matrix analysis to really figure it out. Sometimes issues will only present themselves when multiple switches are activated at the same time and they can be hard to diagnose unless you figure out the matrix and do some meticulous testing. I also note that optos can have intermittent failures, which can make things extra frustrating.
Thanks guys. I did some further digging:
- Cleaned the optos and inspected the solder joints/connections. All looked good and still had the issue.
- Switched the opto's with the ones in the disaster drop ramp to see if I could confirm bad optos.. still had the issue!
So this is an original subway, I did clean it when I had it out.. but it's not the clearest plastic.
Try not to laugh at my hack
And now it works fine. Guess it's time for a new subway? Though I dont see this causing any issues.
Thanks for the tips
I spoke too soon, i thought it was fine because I forgot to plug it in, lol. I also read your thread regarding a similar issue. I am going to do some further troubleshooting and may just start a thread so I dont spam the club over the next week.
Quoted from Billy16:Does anyone know the part number for the upper playfield post that divides the Bigfoot Bluff and Insanity Falls ramps? I can't find it shown in the manual. I stripped the mounting screw for the whirlpool sign that screws onto it (the last thing I had to do to finish my upper playfield rebuild...). Thanks.
Here ya go: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4659-1
Quoted from bobukcat:You probably know this but if not....put the game in switch test mode and bang on the playfield with the palm of you hand and see if any switches are activating. It may help to try this with some other commonly closed switches closed such as the ball locks which would indicate a switch matrix issue.
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:All I can say is take your time and work methodically. It took me a lot of work. I even sent my boards off for servicing (glad I did but it was not a PCB problem). In the end it was good old logic and process of elimination that got it done. Satisfying fix though!
I went into switch test mode, banged away and nada... hit the switches, nada, pops, nada..
slings? ding ding ding. I noticed hitting the right sling would cause the whirlpool exit opto to blink. But then, I noticed hitting the left sling would cause the lost mine opto to blink. I also noticed that if I held the sling switch down, the corresponding opto (next on the same row in the matrix) would trigger.
This was clearly not some flaky part, I figured I had wired something up wrong when putting this beast back together and I did.
Both slings had the wire on the wrong side of the diode. ooops!
Oh well, at least I didnt pull my hair out too long on this one. Appreciate the tips.
Mine was also touching the glass when I completed my restoration recently. I was concerned about it scratching (it's invisiglass) so I moved it down slightly (by dremeling new mounting holes) and I actually dremeled down the very top peak a little bit (the part that was hitting). I used zip ties instead of screws to help alleviate any pressure/twist on the ramp. I also have a zip tie keeping it close to the wire form which also gave me a bit more space. Kind of a pita, but I made it work.
Quoted from Johncare07:Very helpful. Can you post a pic?
Yup! no prob
(I still need to have my wife touch up the paint on the top)
20200714_203147 (resized).jpg20200714_203155 (resized).jpg20200714_203206 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:arcadenerd925... your White Water looks great. Did you power coat your blue at Mass Brothers or somewhere else?
In my opinion; a couple tips / suggestions on your zip ties to hold the boulders;
1) They make them in many different colors... maybe they have a dark brown
2) If you decide the zip ties are permanent way of attaching them to the rails... take your dremel and cut off the original mounting holes, up to your new mounting holes. It should take away the large visible looking unpopulated hole/tab
Looking forward to playing pinball with you and the guys, as soon as this covid crap lightens up.
Kerry
Thanks Kerry, I hadn't event thought about colored zip ties. I am going to give that a try. And yes, for sure looking forward to playing some pinball when things settle down. Stay safe.
The armor I got is actually candy chrome (powder over chrome) that I got from Chris at Hotrodarcade, I love it.
More details in my restore thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-my-second-restoration-attempt
20200712_085735 (resized).jpg20200712_085800 (resized).jpg20200712_085814 (resized).jpgSpeaker lights in WH20... Thoughts? anyone who has them, feel like sharing some pics?
I figure since mine is already rather blingy, why not go all out, lol.
Quoted from RusticatedBelt:What’s the verdict on replacement ramps and boulders from Starship Fantasy or Marco? They are essentially priced the same considering shipping from both. Are they the same quality? Seems like most posters were saying Starship, but I saw some pretty badly painted boulders on this thread that may have come from Starship that needed some help, and looking to avoid that.
My understanding is they are the same thing.
Quoted from Johncare07:Bigfoot error update and input needed.
My friend found the leak from the capacitor on the small Bigfoot motor board and repaired it. He also ensured the traces were all repaired and had continuity. He sent it back to me today and when I installed it, the same error keeps happening.
1). I must disable Bigfoot in adjustments to start a game
2). In Bigfoot test mode the head only spins counter clockwise even when I press the opposite direction.
3). Optos work fine and register in test mode.
I’m at a loss. I’ve read the threads on here about the error and don’t know where to turn to next. Thoughts?
If all the optos reg fine, motor looks ok, I would just try swapping in a new board. Marco sells them for 69
Quoted from Johncare07:Thrilled to report the replacement board came today and Bigfoot is back in action.
Nice!! happy that worked out for ya.
1 week later
Quoted from tdiddy:Yeah I think this is the route I'm going to go, new blade and 45 degree angle to get a little over lap
I'm in the same boat, let us know how it goes
Quoted from mystman12:You can also remove the post right next to the center pop entirely. It allows for much more action in the pops, and in my game it was actually installed so close that the pop was getting stuck against the rubber and wouldn't reset very quickly as a result.
I removed the posts when I re-did mine, love it! way more action in the pops and so far I havent noticed much of an increase in right side drains.
Quoted from Johncare07:Please help.
When the ball enters No Way Out and the VUK kicks the ball up and out, sometimes the sound signaling the presence of another ball happens and the VUK fires. Sometimes it will happen only one or twice. Other times it keeps repeating this cycle.
When I am in switch test mode, all sets of optos register separately. What would be your next step to trouble shoot it?
Thanks.
Hit the other switches on the same row/col as the vuk and see if any also trigger that opto. I had a similar issue and the cause was me wiring a switch backwards (wrong side of the diode)
2 months later
Quoted from Davi:This is the area. You can see a hole - I also removed the post.[quoted image][quoted image]
+1 for removing the post. I like it way better.
Quoted from sscnz:Well that was my first solution.. there's a brand new opto board in the machine. The LM339 still blows! =)
Check your fuses (right ones in right place) check for any shorts that might be injecting power into the switch matrix. Look for anything shorting into your opto wiring.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Did you install new ramps and/or mountains and boulders? Ramps are thicker and also the boulders.
If so, you may have to shave off some of the mountains on top. Grind, file...what ever it takes.
Big Foot is no issue if his fur touches the glass.
This ^^^ i had to grind down the high spot on the mountain a little. I also mounted it slightly further down the ramp to give me a little extra room.
Bigfoot was fine for me.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Drac:Hi guys,
At the time it all seemed so easy to take this game apart but it is now very apparent that I should have taken more photos during disassembly as my memory is not what I had hoped.
Can anyone confirm that the sign / upper playfield ball rail just attaches to the whirlpool ramp with screws such as in the picture? It just feels like I'm missing something here?? It also seem that this piece needs to be flush against the underside of the mini playfield so the screws just don't seem right.
Thanks for any help.[quoted image]
Here's a pic I took during my swap. I believe you are correct
20200524_210819 (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
Quoted from RCSP:I asked a poorly worded question, so I'll start over. The gap between the plastic ramp and the cliffy protector is too large, the ball will get stuck here. What's a good fix? I could put a small ramp flap under the cliffy that would extend over the gap.
What goes into the circled holes? I am running out of parts that haven't been installed!
[quoted image]
EDIT: I figured out the screw holes, they are for the wire ramp that drops the ball onto the Cliffy. Now back to the gap - I can stretch the ramp until it touches, I'd have to drill new holes. The ramp would be stressed a little.
I was in the same boat you are with my restore several months ago (ramp installation was the most PITA of any restore i've done). I opted to wait on screwing in the bottom/entrance and I had to gently close that gap up top with force. I was able to get it to fit with only the tiniest gap but it wasnt easy. I suppose you could put a ramp flap here but you would also have to address the gap going up the side (the side away from the backboard). That part will also need to be smooth, otherwise the ball can get stuck there.
1 month later
Quoted from mastercello:jawjaw - so simple and so neat! Thanks man!
Transfered the playfield to the cabinet and did a quick test play - still some minor hickups to be corrected.
Most of them small things which are done quick.
[quoted image][quoted image]
But then i struggle with the ball getting stuck in the whirlpool subway.
First they dont roll to the left...not sure if the metall bracket I have inside mine is standard?
You can see it here - kind of a straight Z shape bracket - normal? What can be done to prevent balls getting stuck there?
[quoted image]
But when they move to the left, they dont end up in the lost mine upkicker but only at the end of the subway.
What am I missing here?
I set the pin between 6.0 & 6.5 degrees...HALP!
Something doesnt seem right. That bracket is normal, just keep the ball from bashing the subway when it drops. Ball should not get stuck there, gravity should do the trick to keep it rolling. See mine installed from when I did my resto.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I have a vuk plate, ball still get stuck where ramp meets mini playfield when the ball have too slow speed up the ramp or a lot of spin on the ball coming out of the vuk and traveling to the right and getting stuck. I've tried mylar, rubbers at the vuk exit, steeper pin angle but all that only make the ball get stuck a bit less, not eliminating it.
Repro ramps? you probably have the same issue I did.
On mine, where the ramp meets the upper PF, the side towards me (not towards the backboard) the metal ball guide did not meet up cleanly with ramp exit. It basically created a "lip" for the side of the ball to rest against if it wasnt moving fast. I ended up bending the ball guide to match up with the ramp side better. That cleared up the issue for me.
Quoted from pacman11:Yeah mine gets stuck at that lip too between ramp exit and Playfield. I tried putting a piece of mylar over the area which helps. I have an orginal ramp too. Someone said they put rubbers somewhere in that area. Do you have a picture for us?
I don't have a pic from when i made the adjustment, but this pick from when i was just doing a test fit may help explain it better. It also explains why repro ramps can be soo frustrating, lol. I added mylar over the gap thinking that would help but ultimately it didnt. the side of the ball would rest against the left ball guide that i circled because they didnt mate up cleanly on that side.
At the bottom they were fine, but as you went up the side of the ramp exit it not longer matched up.
So what i ultimately did was just take some pliers and bend the ball guide (in place, i was too lazy to take everything apart, lol) slightly to the left to better line up with the side of the ramp exit/transition.
Haven't had an issue since.
20200705_213512 (resized).jpgQuoted from Lhyrgoif:My problem is not the metal ball guides but the actual crack between the mini pf and the ramp. I tried to "stretch" the ramp a bit further but as it's fastened in the other end too I can't close that last little gap. The gap is only about ~2 mm in size but it's still enough to get the ball stuck if it travels slow enough over it. I tried to cover the gap with mylar but no big difference. Also tried to put a partial toothpick below the mylar to even out the gap but still capturing balls.
The previous owner "solved" this problem by increasing the game inclination a lot, but that only made it really hard to go up all ramps, so that's not a viable solution imo. Currently I'm used to shake the game now and then to get the ball loose (often tilting the game in progress) but I really want to solve it once and for all somehow.
Been thinking of maybe using synthetic wood to fill the gap, but I want a solution that doesn't damage the game and still make me able to remove the ramp/mini pf for service and so on.
Makes sense, still might be worth a double check. if you take the back mountains off and push a ball into that area you should be able to see it.
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