Also have a WW.. it was the first pin I bought back in 2000 and still one of my favorites..
Quoted from rawbars:
Is the missing mountain available anywhere?
Yes, I make them. There's another thread here with more information.
Price is 50 euro each.
I'm out at the moment but will make a new batch soon.. and it's really one of the last batches then as the mold is starting to wear out too much..
I made the missing mountain mod. Don't have any available at the moment but will try to make time in a few weeks.
Pm / email me and I'll get back to you when I have some..
Quoted from jk:
Thanks. Wow, that Boulder set is expensive from ministry. I remember when they were selling them at US sites for $115-$120. If anyone has a spare new set I would be interested.
Check the 'tax free' logo on the site - by default his prices are with 21% VAT added. If you're outside the EU you won't need to pay this.
If the upkicker assembly is clean then the coil should have enough strength to kick the ball out from the first time. So check it's not dirty..
What most happens is that the ramp itself isn't screwed tight into the playfield anymore. That makes the pinball lose a lot of speed.
I realise my post is a bit cryptic but don't want to reveal too much at this moment..
If there are some people here who play whitewater in visual pinball often, or who have an eprom programmer, and want to test some things ? Please contact me..
I just started this topics : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bigfoot-new-rules-for-whitewater-with-freewpc
I'm working with freewpc on new rules for whitewater.
It's a work in progress.. I'm looking for testers / feedback / help to get it finished
In the manual it's documented how to take off the upper playfield with it's ramps, and once that part is off it's very easy.
Quoted from daveyvandy:
I know what you mean. There is a custom ROM floating around somewhere on pinside that does this amongst other things. You should try it on VPX if you are savvy enough, or if you really want to you can get an rom programmer and put it on your actual pinball machine. The whole software package was not ever completed from what I remember, and the animations are lacking. But at least it could show you what it would be like.
I made that new rom in freewpc.
Topic is here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bigfoot-new-rules-for-whitewater-with-freewpc
It works in visual pinball and also in a real machine. I've tested it in my machine, coils work well, but it's always at your own risk
The diverter doesn't push the ball into the whirlpool (except when a mode is lit) but lets it pass, like you ask for.
This gives you more flow.
It's a work in progress and incomplete. Sometimes it'll crash and reboot. There are still bugs in it.
But it playable, everything works (all coils, targets, ..). There are new modes (although most are not nice polished - most need tuning of sounds and lights and nicer graphics).
I recently started working on it again, hadn't worked in 4 years on it..
The rules are similar to WW, maybe I should've changed rules much more but you're stuck with the layout/lamps/labels so it doesn't give that much freedom.
While similar, strategy changed a lot.
The story I had in mind was you have to find bigfoot by rafting the correct path. I think in the current version I disabled that, but I had code that if you only made the lit shots it'd award a 'perfect raft' and you saw bigfoot. So for raft 2 - not just make 2 lit shots but only make those 2 lit shots and no unlit shot.
Making an unlit shot in between would advance the raft (like in current WW rules) but not show you bigfoot.
This changes a lot how you play - either you go for 'perfect rafts' or you go for other parts like whirlpool modes and multiballs.
I never got much feedback on this rom, don't know what other thing how much fun it is to play..
Always interested in continuing work on it if people like it and want to help with ideas and testing.
One is L-5 and the other is LH-5.. so they're not the same.
You can download them (and the latest, LH-6) at https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=whitewater&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
L-5 has a textfile included with the changes, the other do not..
Here you find what's in LH-6: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh20-home-vs-non-home-roms-difference
Don't know what's changed in LH-5.
Quoted from rvermeire:
Ok gonna start with the once-over first.
If I take out the PCB should I wear gloves or watch out for something in particular (except labeling of the connectors )?
Do you put it on a workbench (plastic), desk (wood) or on a cloth on a table...
I have the habit of always touching the ground wire inside the cabinet when I start to work on a machine, but if you touch another metal part (like the metal backpanel on which the boards are mounted) that's also good. I haven't heard that there are many components that are static electric sensitive (on older games the 5101 rams are) but it doesn't hurt..
Workbench material doesn't matter much as long as it doesn't generate a static charge.. so some types of plastic are maybe not a good idea. Not a metal surface as the capacitors can hold a charge that you can short when you put the pcb somewhere.. learned that the hard way a long time ago by putting a dmd controller board on the metal lid of a coinbox..
Quoted from rvermeire:
Did anyone ever try to put new cabinet decals over existing ones (smoothing down edges, removing deep scratches and feet issues first) without having put back the cabinet in all wood condition first ?
Just wondering if it's doable and long term ok.
Never done it that way and I really don't want to try it.
Even with sanding down and repainting it's sometimes difficult to get everything really smooth and perfect.
If you want to redecal a game, do it the correct way.
Else it's a waste of your time and money.
Not really a mystery, the company and the person who did it are known.
If I recall correctly the man passed away or company ceased their operations, and original mold for the topper doesn't exist anymore.
Quoted from onemilemore:
OK this is a clarification I needed! So what you're saying is the first hazard won't always be Disaster Drop, for example, but rotates? Most of my play on this is on Pinball FX3 so I apologize if this is a dumb question.
Yes they rotate with popbumper hits.
If you're almost ready to start multiball and the hazard isn't a good award, shoot the bumpers until 5x playfield is lit
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, become a Pinside+ member!