Looks like a screw cap. Should be available at any hardware store or big box home center --

e.g., https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-x-1-4-in-White-Plastic-End-Cap/3012662

this is great news! pm sent

The GI OCD board is still a must if you put leds in the GI, correct?

Or do the latest leds allow for dimming?

This is on my long term to-do list for Wh20 and I'm planning to save up not just for the bulbs but the board too.

I’m sure you saw this but just in case not ...

the lost mountain mod is in the pinside marketplace

15 years ago someone had reinforced green targets but I can’t find them anymore. Wish they’d come back.

Can you provide details? Hooked up to solenoids or flashers? Which ones specifically?

I’m planning to get the shaker and this would be good reference info, thanks.

That was a public service you did, tracking the statistics. Convincing too. Thanks!

For those who missed it, see blitz’s post from earlier in the thread — https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/81#post-4979269

When I’m in a groove the left flipper is an easy backhand for the Spine Chiller ramp.

And there are times when you want to keep the ball away from the lock but get it to the upper pf — for example, to stack 5x Playfield and Wh20 multiball.

Backhanding from the left flipper is easier and less risky than the shot from the right flipper. Backhand shots are so satisfying too.

And if you’re following the JJP pf threads and wondering, the mirco wh20 pf looks great. At least on mine (not yet installed), the clear looks and feels solid and fully cured. I couldn’t press my fingernail into it like some can on their JJP or stern pf.

If you want to keep the dimming effects with leds then you need both LED OCD and GI OCD, right?

Stacked 5x pf, wh20 multiball and boulder bash tonight ... started off with a double jackpot for 110 million and then you guessed it ... all 3 balls drain immediately. Ugh.

I love this game.

You were close! You did everything except locking the third ball for Wh2o multiball must be the last thing you do, then vacation jackpot will run.

Definitely give the rules a good read — https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2768

Nice gc score!

Note the rules contain spoilers on the VJ! So I recommend *not* giving the rules a good read bc VJ is awesome.

I double-checked them to confirm that I was correct.

Even rough ones lately seem to go for $4k+ (US), so I would say if you could get it for around 4k then that would be good. The ramps and especially the working topper (even without the dome) are a huge plus. Get pics of the ramps behind the green targets and look for damage, and also look for cracked or chipped boulders. Assuming those are good, then take a base value of about $5k, subtract ~$400 for decals and dome and split the $1k cost of a new pf, and you get to around $4k.

Also, make sure the ramps are good. The first pic obviously isn't the best, but from what you can see of that ramp it sure looks dirty and cloudy. They should be pretty transparent. Good luck.

On my first white water I put a rubber ring in that same spot that HEP points out, so the ball would drop softly with no spin and roll right down toward the flipper.

Probably found that tip in RGP — that was 20 years ago.

This was the fix I found online years ago --

wh20fix (resized).jpg

I think if you put one or two rings on the top side of the vuk, then the ball will slow on that side and it should spin such that it rolls down the pf toward the flipper. You could take a slow motion video to check and make sure.