I agree, those ramps (whole game) looks great! Wish my ramps were in that condition... I've bought a new suicide ramp (as it was smashed at the entrance) and I will use the old ramp to train flame polishing on, before doing the other ramps. Now I just need to gather the courage to actually try it out

daveyvandy The Spine Chiller entry switch assembly seem to be missing a screw at the left side of the ramp, just saying.

Thanks! It was expensive but this game is worth it. Thanks for pointing out the missing screw, I'm actually missing the nut for it. The screw is in my cabinet, been like that since I took it home. I figure once I get the skull mod (currently in the mail system somewhere) installed, I'll fix that screw and nut.

How was the fit on the ramps? did you have to grind anything down or adjust anything to get them in?

Going to be headed this way myself next month.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-colorisation-for-pin2dmd-by-endprodukt#post-5645193

Anyone got a copy of the files they could share?
Thanks

Edit-didnt see the donation not,will be in contact!

Thanks for the hard work!

I didn't put the ramps in myself, the person I bought it from did that. I did do some light taking apart in the back area for adjusting, so I can say that the ramps seem to be a pretty damn good fit. With the cliffy protector installed at the ball eject drop, I was occasionally getting a stuck ball from a soft plunge between where the spine chiller ramp meets the upper play field. After some minor adjusting it seems to be okay.

mine has been like this for years.
Only happens when i guest plays.......so annoying .

Perfect fit, no need to hack/modify them.

Unless something has changed, it is not a donation but a set price of 20 Euros. I'm not sure that the code has been completed.

I just picked up this white water. Could anyone chime in and let me know if this is the authentic topper water foil or a reproduction.

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Looks legit to me. You’ll soon tell when it’s lit

I am surprised by this but maybe they have gotten better. I installed a new Whirlpool ramp a few years ago that came from Starship fantasy. I had to grind down the plastic at the lip where the ramp meets the upper playfield. It is behind the steel flap, so you cannot see it. But before I did this I would get some airballs and rejects as the ball past over this.

it is original. it is also very easy to tell once you turn the machine on. The difference is very noticeable. I have found a way to make the reproduction work almost as good as the original.

You can’t just drop that bombshell and move on like nothing happened. This could be as significant as the colonels secret blend of herbs and spices and the original coke recipe

Anyone have a tip or an adjustment that will keep the ball from going SDTM after passing thru the secret passage?

Jiggle the machine or slap the side of the cab is the only easy thing I can think of if it's level all around.
Other than that it might involve getting back into the are and adjusting some metal guide action?

LOL, I will try to post pics. it was some trial and error using spacers to lean it forward. A friend came over the other day and could not tell it was repro with the lighting on.

I was rebuilding the mini playfield flipper assembly today and came to think about the conical spring used there. Why is it a conical spring there and not the "usual" small spring attached to the EOS mounting bracket, like for the two main flippers? Why is this upper flipper special? Please enlighten me.

I think I've read earlier that the conical spring was common in older games, but why have two different solutions for the flippers in the same physical game?

I was wondering the same thing when I was under the table the other day and assumed it had to do with the fact that you want the upper flipper to be less powerful so it doesn't create air balls.

This is just a plain guess, I'd like to hear from the experts as well.

i can see how this would help move the ball.

Hmm...not a bad idea to make the table tilt just a smidge to keep the ball from coming right back down the middle.

Sure, It could be to get less flipper action (more "resistance" with the spring) but wouldn't it be easier to just mount a weaker coil instead? I'm really curious about the cause fore this.

If it this issue shows up again, search this thread. I have some posts on fixing it. Mine has not gotten stuck there for years now.

The flipper return extension spring bracket hits the ball guide on the main playfield (right loop, inner one).

Thanks @Jam_Burglar. I'll try sanding down the ramp lip as you suggested.

My bigfoot turns as it should but the motor/gearbox sounds quite a lot. I removed the whole bigfoot assembly and tried moving the big shaft that the head is screwed to and its not a smooth rotation of the shaft but rather "stuttering" when I turn it manually. My question is if anyone have opened up the gearbox and cleaned/lubricated it; is it hard to do or should I leave it alone?

I've have taken apart and cleaned/lubricated the gearbox for the ToM trunk so if it's not worse than that I should be able to make it.

Tried google but couldn't find any pictures of the gearbox insides, anyone have some to post before I decide to dig in?

Edit: just realized the gearbox is riveted(?) shut and not using screws as I assumed it would. This is probably the reason I couldnt find any good info or pics of people servicing it too I really wanted to get into mine and see if I could make it run smoother but on the other hand it works and I don't want to destroy something that is expensive to replace, so I will probably leave it alone.

Also, my gearbox pcb board is mounted with three hex posts but there is a hole for a fourth. Am I missing a hex post?

The entrance of one of my ramps has somehow been bent and it is making the ball go around the "hill" and sometimes jumping up a bit when hitting the edge.

I've flamepolished ramps so I am a bit familiar with heating ramps, but I also know how easy it is to heat too much and how hot the plastic gets. I'm not sure if heating it up and putting a weight on it would make the weight get stuck to the ramp. Would heating the end and keeping it straight with my hands while it cools of for a few minutes work, or will it simply resume the old bent shape when I let go of it?

The "bake it in the oven between two sheets" trick obviously won't work here as it's a ramp with edges and not a flat playfield plastic.

The second alternative would be to drill a new, third hole, in the ramp and put a ramp screw in to keep the bump down but it feels more like a hack. I'm also hesistant to drill in the plastic as it will be very close to the ramp edge and its a risk the plastic will crack and look ugly.

Any suggestions on what to do (and how)?
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Somehow I hit the Vacation Jackpot last nite, but don't know how I did it. I thought I had missed my chance (as the Wet Willie mode seemed to be over and all the rafts re-set), but I hit one more shot and boom! This has to be the best payoff sequence ever--what a trip! I could not even describe all that went on I was so surprised by it--hope I can bumble my way thru it again!

it's the locking of ball 3 that triggers it. You just have to had hit wet willies, class 6 river and all of the boulders some time in the game.

Don't you need all the items from Bigfoot's cave too?

No.

You need to have reached River Class 6 at some point.
You need to have received all 6 boulder awards at some point.
You need to have reached Wet Wiley's at some point.

If you have completed these 3 tasks, then locking the 3rd ball will award the Vacation Jackpot (and then start a "normal" WhiteWater multi-ball).

Has anyone had an issue with the kickback armature breaking? I snapped my second one right at the pin today (where the plastic meets the metal). The first one was probably the original, but the replacement is a week old.

Also having an issue with the ball not wanting to rack properly after a drain. Sometimes it takes two or three tries to move the ball before it resets properly. Put in a new armature/link and a sleeve, but that didn't really help. Ideas?

Try bending the metal plate near the shooter lane just a bit, the ball is probably hitting that and bouncing back.

OK, thanks.

Yes, I had a period where I went through several of them in a short period of time. Then, suddenly it stopped happening. I don't know if I had a bad batch of them, or finally got a "strong" one or something, but I haven't had one break now in several years.

Thanks. I can't figure out any reason for them to be breaking other than a bad batch. Marco is sending me a new plastic and roll pin, hopefully that will last awhile.

Not a member of this club (right now) but I'm interested in buying a White Water
Any advice on what to look for when buying one?

Area where the VUK delivers the ball to the upper mini playfield. Best case there is a metal protector/cliffy there or the pf will be damaged.

Check condition of all ramps, they can be bought but there are 7? in total and it will be very expensive if replacing all. Look especially close at the whirlpool ramp (where the ball goes around in circles) and the two ramp entrances behind the green standup targets (ramp plastics get smashed by the ball).

I would also check that bigfoot works properly (turns head and divert balls).

Check condition of all mountain plastics, can be bought but not colored exactly the same as originals and also rather expensive.

Check playfield in front of "lost mine" kickout as that area often get really worn and missing paint.

Check topper works properly. The waterfall should look like the water is flowing when working correctly. A working original topper is unobtanium as spare part so if you find a game with a working one it adds quite a bit to the pin value. If the topper is missing then the price should be lower, topper is an iconic piece that shows the game name (game title is not present on the translite).

Thank you very much!
Think I got it:
-Playfield: VUK (can the playfield be seen without taking the ramp off?) and Lost Mine
-Ramps and mountain plastic parts
-Bigfoot
-Topper

Currently my game got FL-15411 coils in both lower left and right flippers. I know it's supposed to be an orange FL-15411 (strong) in the left one and a blue FL-11629 (even stronger) in the right one.

I've recently bought this game and immediately teared it down for maintenance so I don't really know how the current coil strength configuration "feels" and works. I have played some Whitewater pins before but of course I have no idea what coils they had.

Normally I would just mount the stronger FL-11629 in the right flipper and be done with it, but I'm worried the extra strength may be the actual cause to the broken ramp entrances and mountains this game had when I bought it. I've replaced both some mountain plastics and some ramps with brand new ones and I'm frankly a bit scared that a really strong coil will break them too.

In short, I'm interested to hear what coils you have mounted and what you recommend. If the strongest FL-11629 coil is needed to properly make the steep ramps then I will mount it (game play comes first) but if the weaker FL-15411 is enough to clear all ramps then I will gladly keep it in my game and hopefully save some plastics from breaking (or am I overthinking this and the difference between the coils isn't that big?).

Hi everyone, I'm an artist and I've been creating officially licensed alternate backglasses.

I'm going to be making an official Alternate Backglass for Whitewater soon (like the ones I have done previously, see attached).
LOOKING FOR SOME HELP:

1. Would anyone be interested in doing a bit of a trade? If you lend me your Whitewater translite for a few days, I'll give you send you a free Translite when I'm finished with the artwork. I just need the original Translite for a few days to scan and take accurate measurements. Email me or DM me if you're interested. I would pay for all shipping. [email protected]

2. Does anyone have any suggestions for how they'd like to see Whitewater changed? Any ideas on how to improve on it?
You can see my pinball artwork here https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/

THANKS!

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UPDATE! Someone has sent me a White-Water Translite so I no longer need one, thanks so much everyone!

No thanks, fine the way it is

Hmm, if you're going to make an alternate translite maybe it would be a good idea to experiment with putting the game title on it for people who don't have a topper. Of course, the downside to that would be that people who *do* have a topper would then have the name displayed twice right next to each other. Just a thought I had.

While I've never had an issue with the original I'm curious to see what it would be like!
Now I'd love to see a TFTC alt trans!

What would you say is the value of a White Water with playfield damage at 3 noticable spots: 2 near Lost Mine and one just above the shoot again insert.
Also the 8 boat insert has a spot.
Cab is faded and touched up. (Needs new decals)
Topper is missing the dome (for sale at €140 near me) but rest is complete.
As far as seller says: ramps, plastics, boards and dms are in good shape.
It plays well according to the add.

Thanks for your advice

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I sold a much nicer one a couple of months for 5500.00

JP Pro/ Amber Shooter Rod and Art Blades, Shaker -Vs- WW/ Color DMD Mirror Blades, Topper and full LEDS?

I'd call that pretty close to even, based on the WH2O condition. I've only played about a dozen games on JP compared to hundreds on WH2O, but I'd consider JP to be one of the best games out of Stern in quite a while.

Even rough ones lately seem to go for $4k+ (US), so I would say if you could get it for around 4k then that would be good. The ramps and especially the working topper (even without the dome) are a huge plus. Get pics of the ramps behind the green targets and look for damage, and also look for cracked or chipped boulders. Assuming those are good, then take a base value of about $5k, subtract ~$400 for decals and dome and split the $1k cost of a new pf, and you get to around $4k.

Also, make sure the ramps are good. The first pic obviously isn't the best, but from what you can see of that ramp it sure looks dirty and cloudy. They should be pretty transparent. Good luck.

I just picked up a really rough one in similar playfield shape with NO topper for $3500. I had to put about $400 in it to get it going and playing good and add a repro topper. Crazy part is it plays better than my $8000 restored one I had several years back.