Thanks everyone for the tips on the topper bulbs. Ive got one more question. The large left ramp where it attaches at the bottom, mine wiggles a lot when the ball goes down it. I just have a bare screw attaching the ramp that goes through the left ball guide that feeds the flipper. Im sure the screw should have a spacer or something around it that would make it more snug through the ball guide holes. It is just the bare really long screw going from ramp through the guide into the play field. Any help in what parts im missing would be great. Thanks

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This one:

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0052-00

thanks Davi, does it just take one?

Yes, one piece.

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Hi everyone. Thanks for the help so far. Ive got the new bulbs in the topper...way better...but I've got one bulb out of all of them that doesn't blink, it just stays on constantly. Also I've got a flasher next to the Bigfoot that I've not seen on other games..? is it in the wrong place? Thanks for the help and suggestions.

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Don't know why you would have a flasher there.

Could it be the one that should be under the mountain dome in the back right corner? If you go through the flasher test, what does it say when that flasher is activated?

I also don't know why you would have one bulb that doesn't blink in the topper. They should all blink in a particular sequence.

These two issues are not likely to be related.

All the bulbs are blinking except one and it just stays lit the whole time. so its got power, just doesn't blink...There is a flasher in that dome in the boulders that you were talking about. thats what I thought at first too. Ill have to do the flasher test and see what it says, I didn't think to do that. Thanks

Any advice on making the ball swirl around more times in the whirlpool? It feels so odd typing that question lol.

I have seen some people's games where the ball takes like 5 secs to finally drop whereas mine just takes a few turns and falls.

Any advice?

Maybe a bad bulb? Did you try switching them?

Yeah, I tried that too, all the bulbs I've put in that socket remain lit.. Also the odd flasher next to my Bigfoot is flasher #17 Bigfoot body flasher. So I guess its in the wrong place..? supposed to be underneath him?

I wax the bowl from time to time, you may want to check the incline of your game as well

Just looked , I didnt have that bulb by Bigfoot

It should be beneath the whirlpool decal on the ramp plastic to the left of him where the ball is diverted by bigfoot.

Just know that with a fresh coat of wax, the ball will sometimes swirl so long that the audio kind of bugs out.

Wax like carnauba wax? Same stuff used on playfield?

Bad U20 on the CPU board? That's usually the culprit of a dead switch matrix.

I use Plexus on my ramps and bowl. Any good spray plastic polish/wax will probably do the same job. Honda makes a great spray plastic polish that is a little cheaper. It will add some time to the bowl until the wax wears off, then you hit it with another coat in a week or two. Rinse and repeat...

Thanks! I am going to try Plexus.

Yeah, I made a thread about it a while back. I hadn't checked the fuses after bringing the game home, and it was working fine and I was having too much playing it. I lifted the playfield to make an adjustment (While powered off) and then it wouldn't boot when I turned it back on. Checked fuses, none were blown but some were incorrect.

I guess something somehow shorted and blew U20 since the fuses on that circuit were too high. I think the moral of the story is to *always* make sure all the fuses are correct when you bring a new game home.

picked up a cheap white water that was missing the topper. If anyone has a old topper or even a repro topper I would take it off your hands.

Could cost more than the machine if you ever find one.

very true, I just acquired a repro one for pretty cheap so it will do. It is a players machine so not going to spend to much anyway.

Could use a pic of the assembly holding the bracket, under the whirlpool ... this supports the metal bracket holding the optos to the subway
Mine looks lines it's been doctored with, causing the optos to be be too low ...
Regards and thanks in advance for your time
Rob

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoration-rough-water-to-white-water-/page/2#post-4617481

My display is acting funny after the game has been on for 20 min or so. Its pixelating and going black and white then back to color..? Does anyone have any suggestions of things to check? I did make sure the cables were all seated properly and they are.

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maybe bad RAM, you got a dmd board to swap?

Thanks for the response. I got a tip off of the color dmd website and it was spot on. Was the wide ribbon cable coming off the mpu that needed reseating. Back up and running.

Plexus works like a charm! Thanks Billy16!

Cool, glad you liked it. Keep that can handy, as if you want top speed from your ramps and bowl you'll be using it often.

I recall reading several posts about glueing the fur back onto BF without seeing a good answer. I tried some Scotch tacky glue that I bought at Michael's--one of the many craft glues they have that claim to work on "fabric, metal, paper, wood, fairy dust", etc. Well, it actually worked--even though it did not seem like it was going to stick at first. Let it dry for 24 hrs--everything I tried to glue down was solidly attached. If it does not last I'll report back.

I can also report that I used the Loctite fabric glue that someone recommend and it's held up great for a few days now.

Fabric glue is amazing stuff and really works--used it on a rip in a couch and it was hardly noticeable after it dried.

I keep telling people that the Loctite Vinyl, Fabric & Plastic Flexible Adhesive has been working for years and years on mine.
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/specialty-products/specialty/loctite_vinyl_fabricplasticflexibleadhesive.html

I posted this 6 years ago
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/3#post-1022958

Just finished redesigning my new White Water flipper toppers | https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/94772

After some input from a WW owner, here are the changes I made:

1) The upper flipper topper is now white with a 3D oar design.
2) I changed the shape of the raft to more resemble the center playfield rafts
3) I changed the water pattern from waves to more resemble the artwork of the sling and return plastics

Price is $25 per set of 3 which includes US shipping. Please PM me if interested for payment details.

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Need a little help with a flasher location. While doing the flasher test I come to "Bigfoot Body (2)". I only am seeing one flasher go off in the backbox. It looks like there is a flasher #17 somewhere near the actual bigfoot (per the manual), but i can't seem to find it. Could someone take a photo of the location for me? Best way to change this bulb? Thanks.

I just joined the club!
It's wonderful to be here, I waited a very long time to get a good quality WH20. I fell in love with this table on my virtual machine, and it's been in the back of my mind ever since. This will be my fifth table, but should have been my first! It's already an awesome shape, it was fully restored with new ramps, LEDs, a thorough cleaning, and tasteful mods. I'm working on bringing it up to perfection right now with some OCD boards and other fun goodies. Looking forward to being here forever

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Remove the plastic around the Bigfoot, you will find the flasher there , flashes when Bigfoot diverts the ball

Not in the club yet but thinking I should be. I've read on several occasions that the whole ramp-a-thon on this game is basically a nightmare to work with (when cleaning /servicing below) and want your oppinions on it.

I have played the game and like it quite a lot, just not sure I want it at home if its a bitch to work with. So honestly, how bad is it to service and keep in good shape?

Also worried about the mountain plastics breaking as those seem hard to get.

Complete set of boulders , available at starship fantasy, cliffy's protectors will protect them when installed. The removing of ramps to access repairs is fairly simple
All parts for this game are still fairly accessible.
One of my favorites

Welcome to the club! You need to work on making the leds tasteful, looking rough.
Luckily it's an easy job!

It's really not that bad imo if you take your time, take pics, and keep things organized. If you have thicker aftermarket ramps or other mods, it can be a bit difficult getting everything to line up but really no different than any other game. I recommend just shopping the whole game out if you get one. Fix all issues, replace optos, rebuild flippers, replace rubbers, leds, etc. There are protectors and cliffys that are good to have so you want to get all that on while you shop. Once you do that, everything should be good for long while.

I don't think any parts are hard to get besides the topper. Repo builders are not the same color as the originals but close. The white square targets can be found but they are not quite correct. I got one with a busted corner and could use a stock replacement.

Thank you. It seems to me I had this plastic off before--maybe I was not looking for a flasher at that time and didn't notice it. I'll take another look today.

Found it this time, thanks again.

It's going to take you a few hours to break down the game for a thorough cleaning. How often you need to do that is probably more of a personal preference. The thing is, you really only need to do a full breakdown every once in a while. Most of the game can be reached by removing the glass. I only to a full tear-down every 2 years or so.

There are a few things you can do to save yourself a lot of hassle.

1. Label all of the under-playfield connectors you need to disconnect to do your teardown. Take your time and do it right the first time. This is going to take an extra hour or so but it will save you a lot of time in the future. I used numbered stickers from the electronics section of Lowes and it helps me find the connectors (they can get lost in the wires if you're not careful and you'll forget to re-connect them.)

2. Keep organized. I lay out a big board next to the game (about the size of a playfield) and everything that comes off the game goes in the same spot on the board as it would with the playfield, with the screws all in in same places. There are lots of different sized screws so keep them organized. The only thing is, you have to PROTECT THIS BOARD FROM DISRUPTION. If your toddler or cats gets to it you're in for a lot of work. Getting the screws right would be a nightmare.

3. Pay really close attention to the order in which you remove things and follow that reverse order when you re-assemble. Take a ton of pictures. Again this takes a lot of time the first time but saves you time in subsequent breakdowns. The ramps are a little like a puzzle and when re-assembled correctly they fit together nicely. If it's not fitting right, chances are you did something wrong. Being methodical really pays off.

4. That pay extra attention to the Whirlpool. That long screw spacer under the whirlpool is REALLY important. If you aren't careful about putting that spacer back before you re-install you'll screw up through the playfield. I've seen this on quite a few Whitewaters. In fact, take detailed pictures of that whole under-whirlpool area before you start your work.

5. Replace your rubbers when you break down for cleaning.

6. Don't let the game sit un-assembled for long. You'll forget what you did during disassembly and it will take you longer to re-assemble. Plus, there's more chance that you disrupt your organized parts.

Those are the tips I can think of off the top of my head.

Another thing I'd recommend if you have a nice game is to use protectors. I have no mylar on my game except for the clear protector for the Lost Mine kickout. That's a really key area to protect. The Cliffy under the VUK is absolutely essential. The other big areas are the inlane drops from the ramps. Wear in those inlane-switch slots might be the best way to tell how much play a game has seen. I use the Cliffy metal protectors and some clear, cling vinyl on the right inlane to prevent damage there and it works great. The other place I use clear, cling-vinyl is the whole area to the right of Bigfoot where the ball drops from your plunge. This is a pretty heavy wear area, and very tough to keep clean. The vinyl protects your playfield, is easy to clean, and easy to replace if you need it. The Manits protectors for the green targets depend on how much wear your game has in that area. Mine has held up really well but I check them every time I clean and make sure the screws are nice an tight.

was having an issue where kickout from the mine scoop was firing into the right flipper and going right into the left drain. It hadn't always done this and only recently started for some reason. After doing a bit of a search, I replaced the coil to a less powerful AE-12-2600. I had an extra one from my TSPP and just snipped the diode off. Works perfectly, much easier eject that goes right to the middle of the right flipper. Posting in case this helps someone else.

Good details. Labeling connects is extremely helpful. WH20 has a ton of them going to upper pf. I used blue painters tape and a sharpie to note where it goes. You could just make marks on the connectors but I find the blue tape makes it easy to find any loose connectors you forgot to connect.

I don't think you need to store all the parts out like that. Good pictures and bags for hardware work great for me. I recycle bags from parts orders like leds and write notes on them using a sharpie. Label what part they go to and any specific information like where the long screw goes. If you label them well then it doesn't matter if they get mixed up. I then store all the parts safely out of the way so they don't get knocked off something or stepped on. Take pictures of every step of disassembly at different angles. Never hurts to take more pics and get close ups. I've encountered games that were not put together correctly so if something doesn't seem right, look up pictures online.

BTW - what is the clear protector for the mine kickout? Do you mean mylar?

Mine does the same thing. During gameplay it will occasionally do it's "whistle and kick" a couple times in succession with no balls in the VUK. All other gameplay is normal, including ball lock and multiball operation.

Did you ever find the solution?

Yep. I think that's the only mylar on mine.

Quick question, when you start the whirlpool challenge is the red light above the gate on the upper playfield supposed to flash indicating shoot the whirlpool? Mine doesn't but the light works cause it flashes after hitting the insanity falls shot? Could it be the rom version or what would be causing it not to flash during the whirlpool 2 ball?

Yes

any reason it would flash every other time but not during the whirlpool challenge?