(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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There are 5555 posts in this topic. You are on page 94 of 112.
#4651 1 year ago

Yep pretty special, it’s got an el panel behind it and lights up.

#4652 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Holy crap it’s alive![quoted image]

Congrats! How long? Trying to remember, at least a year? Looks great!.

#4653 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Holy crap it’s alive![quoted image]

Followed your revitalization thread of that machine all the way through. That is an absolutely stunning machine and you should be super proud of the work you did on it.

#4654 1 year ago

Mirrored BG on CPR website!

#4655 1 year ago

My score wasn't the greatest but this was a new high for me. One day I will get that elusive vacation jackpot also!

20200217_143016 (resized).jpg
#4656 1 year ago

Looking for a club member willing to leave the club within driving distance of So Cal.

#4657 1 year ago

Thank you ericpinballfan pindelapin Yes this was a long one over 1.5 years. I uploaded a video its over in the restoration thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoration-rough-water-to-white-water-/page/6

#4658 1 year ago

Does anyone know which color flasher domes go where? My game has all blue flasher domes and I want to put the original colors back in. Marco lists both amber and red domes for White Water though and I can't find the part numbers in the manual. Is it red over the whilrpool eject, and amber in the back mountain?

#4659 1 year ago

All the flashers were red originally.

#4660 1 year ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

All the flashers were red originally.

Thanks! One more question, the bounce back solenoid seems to be acting kind of strange. I know I need to adjust the switch (It's too low), but whenever it activates it sounds like it quickly pulses a few times instead of just firing once, and it also often goes off when I start a new game (It doesn't use up the bounce back or make an outlane sound though, so I don't think the switch is causing that). Is that normal?

#4661 1 year ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Is that normal?

As far as it operates in my game, no. Bounce back only fires in-game, when lit, and the ball hits the switch.

#4662 1 year ago

I would try adjusting the switch first, it sounds like it may be the problem.
Easy way to test, stick something like a business card between the switch leaves, to prevent the switch from triggering.
If the problem still happens, it's not the switch.
If the problem goes away, it PROBABLY is the switch.

#4663 1 year ago

Just wanted to report something I tried over the weekend which seems to have been successful.

I had been having problems with inconsistent kick-outs from the Lost Mine (where it would often hit just the tip of the right flipper, sometimes hit the middle of the flipper, and sometimes go SDTM).

I added washers to each of the screws that mount the back of the kick-out bracket (the two closest to the playfield edge), and it has changed the angle just enough that it now hits the right flipper to where it can be drop-caught consistently. A big improvement over the "choose-wisely" game that I had been required to play previously.

#4664 1 year ago

Okay, so I got my bounce back working just about perfectly. I just needed to adjust the switch, as before it was being triggered too early and it also wasn't straight, so it would rub up against the side of the playfield and get held down. Thanks for the help!

I did notice though that Big Foot's arms are not attached to his hands. His left arm is all covered in some sort of glue, but not his right. What is the best way to reattach them?

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#4665 1 year ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Does anyone know which color flasher domes go where? My game has all blue flasher domes and I want to put the original colors back in. Marco lists both amber and red domes for White Water though and I can't find the part numbers in the manual. Is it red over the whilrpool eject, and amber in the back mountain?

Hey man, it originally had all red flasher domes. I would have gave them to you if I knew you wanted them.

#4666 1 year ago
Quoted from boostedskex:

Hey man, it originally had all red flasher domes. I would have gave them to you if I knew you wanted them.

Oh, that's okay! I've already ordered a few, they're pretty cheap. I'm interested in seeing which colors I end up liking better.

#4667 1 year ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Okay, so I got my bounce back working just about perfectly. I just needed to adjust the switch, as before it was being triggered too early and it also wasn't straight, so it would rub up against the side of the playfield and get held down. Thanks for the help!
I did notice though that Big Foot's arms are not attached to his hands. His left arm is all covered in some sort of glue, but not his right. What is the best way to reattach them?[quoted image]

They were originally glued, but after 25 years the glue has failed. I had the same problem with mine a few years ago. I tried a couple of different glues, but couldn't find one that would work well.

Don't laugh, but I eventually used a staple gun and just put a staple through Bigfoot's "wrist". The hair hides it pretty well, and I haven't had the problem since.

#4668 1 year ago

Hot glue will fix just about anything--which is what it looks like was used.

#4670 1 year ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Okay, so I got my bounce back working just about perfectly. I just needed to adjust the switch, as before it was being triggered too early and it also wasn't straight, so it would rub up against the side of the playfield and get held down. Thanks for the help!
I did notice though that Big Foot's arms are not attached to his hands. His left arm is all covered in some sort of glue, but not his right. What is the best way to reattach them?[quoted image]

There is a vinyl fabric and plastic glue made by Picture that works well. One thing to watch out for is, once you reglue the hands, the fur/hands can rub up against his chin and wear off the paint. I put a spacer down in the mech to stop that and it's worked well for years now.

#4671 1 year ago

"Loctite" not "picture". Effing autocorrect !

#4672 1 year ago

Goop works well on materials like that.

#4673 1 year ago
Quoted from mystman12:

What is the best way to reattach them?[quoted image]

Contact cement.

#4674 1 year ago

Just so you know I tried several different glues, etc. They often held for about 2 days and then would fail. Most of them would either not attach to the fabric, or not adhere to the plastic.
I don't believe that I tried (or knew about) the fabric/plastic glue from Loctite. Assuming it works, that might be the best solution.

#4675 1 year ago

mbeardsley So when I restored my game, bigfoot was SUPER dirty and his fur had come off both hands. Make sure you clean the area on the tops of his hands really well with either Naptha or alcohol. I used hot glue, the fur is totally solidly attached.

Also, you will need to heat up the old glue and wither try to use it, or remove it...

#4676 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

mbeardsley So when I restored my game, bigfoot was SUPER dirty and his fur had come off both hands. Make sure you clean the area on the tops of his hands really well with either Naptha or alcohol. I used hot glue, the fur is totally solidly attached.
Also, you will need to heat up the old glue and wither try to use it, or remove it...

Well, since I used the staple, my bigfoot has been fine. I tried various other stuff (including hot glue) unsuccessfully.
The fur hides the staple pretty well (you can only see it for an instant when his arm is fully extended, and then only if you really look for it).

#4677 1 year ago

My machine has some annoying scratches on the backbox black plate just under the waterfall topper (where the posts from the shooter lane touch when the playfield is lifted up).

I have thought about trying to sand/repaint that area, but thought it might be easier to simply replace that part (if possible). Looking in the manual it seems to indicate that this is just part of the "backbox assembly".

Does this mean that the part is not available as an individual piece? If it IS available, does anyone have a source and/or part number?

Thanks.

#4678 1 year ago

mbeardsley if your referring to the large metal trim on the backbox, I believe that part is pretty expensive and they are not easy to come by. I would do as you suggested. Remove it and paint it. I added a clear rubber pad where the playfield touches the metal trim, no scratches

#4679 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

mbeardsley if your referring to the large metal trim on the backbox, I believe that part is pretty expensive and they are not easy to come by. I would do as you suggested. Remove it and paint it. I added a clear rubber pad where the playfield touches the metal trim, no scratches

Yes, that is the part I mean...do you have either a part number or source?
When you say "expensive" do you mean $100 or $1000?
At $1000, I'll paint it, but at $100, I would just buy it (as I'd spend more in time and materials, and it still wouldn't look as good as a new one).

#4680 1 year ago

mbeardsley... I agree with SoulRider911;

I took mine off, lightly sanded it and put a new semi-gloss black enamel paint job back on: EZPZ.

However, I didn't place any rubber pads on it. What I did was; slide 2 clear condoms over the 2 clear posts and their screw heads (down by shooter lane). Now its a rubber condom that touches it there.

#4681 1 year ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

What I did was; slide 2 clear condoms over the 2 clear posts and their screw heads (down by shooter lane). Now its a rubber condom that touches it there.

Yes, I've already done that...now I need to deal with the scratches that are already there.

My sanding/painting skills are mediocre at best, so a new piece (assuming it is available at a non-ridiculous price) would work better for me.

#4682 1 year ago

Here is the part number 01-10889 its called "Waterfall light Shield" they are basically unobtanium at this point. So I suggest maybe using some heavy coats of primer before paint that may fill in some of the deeper scratches. Also if you use a matte or satin black not gloss, the marks will be much less visible as the light will not reflect as much. Hope this helps

#4683 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Here is the part number 01-10889 its called "Waterfall light Shield" they are basically unobtanium at this point. So I suggest maybe using some heavy coats of primer before paint that may fill in some of the deeper scratches. Also if you use a matte or satin black not gloss, the marks will be much less visible as the light will not reflect as much. Hope this helps

Yes, this is helpful. Not sure why I didn't see it in the manual when I looked. I guess since it can't be found, I will have to go the paint route. Thanks.

#4685 1 year ago

Any recommendations on how to go about fixing this? The screw that was there just came out in the middle of a game and I know the hole is completely stripped. Normally I'd just fill it and drill a new, centered hole, but the current one is so close to the edge of the playfield that it's begun breaking through the side. If I try hammering a wooden skewer into the hole with wood glue it's just going to end up breaking out the side. I also don't believe that the screw that was there was original. Any thoughts?

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#4686 1 year ago

Might be worth getting a new mini playfield

#4687 1 year ago

I would remove the playfield and repair it before it gets any worse. Than from there you can probably repair easier without worry of it falling apart.

#4688 1 year ago
Quoted from Andypc:

Might be worth getting a new mini playfield

Nah, other than this it's pretty nice, I don't think it's worth replacing the whole thing.

Quoted from fiberdude120:

I would remove the playfield and repair it before it gets any worse. Than from there you can probably repair easier without worry of it falling apart.

Should I just clamp a block of wood next to it and then fill the hole as normal? That's the only way I can think of being able to fill it while keeping what I fill it with in place. Is there a better way?

#4689 1 year ago

Is there a way you could stand it on edge and have some glue seep into the wood before you clamp it to dry?

#4690 1 year ago

How about putting a T-nut on the bottom and screwing into that? Just a thought...

#4691 1 year ago

either way he needs to repair the wood before anything should be done.

#4692 1 year ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Any recommendations on how to go about fixing this? The screw that was there just came out in the middle of a game and I know the hole is completely stripped. Normally I'd just fill it and drill a new, centered hole, but the current one is so close to the edge of the playfield that it's begun breaking through the side. If I try hammering a wooden skewer into the hole with wood glue it's just going to end up breaking out the side. I also don't believe that the screw that was there was original. Any thoughts?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I had the same prob, I took the lazy way out and took the screw to the hardware store and just got a slightly bigger screw (depends on how damaged it is though)

#4693 1 year ago

Put some toothpicks in there with wood glue. Works great.

#4694 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Put some toothpicks in there with wood glue. Works great.

The problem is it's busting out the side.

#4695 1 year ago

Why not fill the hole, and drill a new hole in the playfield and a countersunk hole in the ramp... I mean u will have an extra hole but based on the situation sounds like it may be a viable option?

#4696 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Why not fill the hole, and drill a new hole in the playfield and a countersunk hole in the ramp... I mean u will have an extra hole but based on the situation sounds like it may be a viable option?

Well I'd rather not drill a hole in the ramp, especially since if I add one further away from the edge of the playfield the ball will be able to roll over it. I think I'm just going to go ahead and try filling it with something clamped against the side, and then drill a new hole. I think that should work fine.

#4697 1 year ago

Fill the hole just like you normally would with some toothpicks. Put a piece of tape over the side when you do it, so the glue fills the hole. You could use a thin CA glue and that will completely wick through and fill the hole. Then remove the tape, sand down the side if you need to and re-drill the hole. It'll be as good as new with no sign that anything was ever done.

#4698 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Fill the hole just like you normally would with some toothpicks. Put a piece of tape over the side when you do it, so the glue fills the hole. You could use a thin CA glue and that will completely wick through and fill the hole. Then remove the tape, sand dawn the side if you need to and re-drill the hole. It'll be as good as new with no sign that anything was ever done.

Right. The glue is what holds it all together. The toothpicks fill the gaps so stock screw has something to bite. I repaired holes close to pop pumper holes that were busting out the sides. Works great. Tough break it's on the edge that you can see. Maybe some kind of clamp when gluing can help push it all in but probably always going to have a scar there.

1 week later
#4699 12 months ago

Just finished a pretty thorough cleaning and waxing of my White Water! I completely tore down the game, and honestly dealing with the mini playfield wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. While I had the mini playfield out I went ahead and repaired the stripped out holes on it. I just ended up taping over the sides of the holes, clamping a wood block over that, and then filling them with toothpicks and wood glue, and it worked pretty well. One weird thing that happened though was that one of the toothpicks actually went all the way through to the bottom when I hammered it, and pushed away the last layer of wood on the bottom of the playfield. To fix it I just used more wood glue and clamped it against the playfield to dry. While these repairs don't look perfect, they certainly get the job done.

While I had the game taken apart I also removed some rust and used Scigrip to heal some cracked ramps. Time will tell how long those repairs last, but they're certainly better than before. I've also swapped out the flipper super bands for standard rubbers, which were included when I bought the game. Ever since I first got it set up I've felt it was surprisingly easy (I got the Vacation Jackpot within a week of setting it up), so between a fresh coat of wax and the standard rubbers, I'm hoping it starts kicking my butt!

Unfortunately, I can't play it yet as one of the opto bulbs in the Lost Mine kickout broke, so I have to wait until I receive some new boards from Marco first...

Also, I've got a question about the ramp at the bottom of the mini playfield. When the ball is traveling slowly, or rolling along the metal guide at the bottom of the mini playfield, it will get caught on the groove between the ramp and the playfield. This makes the upper playfield really easy since, instead of always exiting through the ramp, sometimes the ball will roll along the edge right back to the flipper, and sometimes even sit in front of it. The ramp seems like it's raised a little bit instead of being flush with the playfield. Has anyone ever had an issue like this before?

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