You sir are my personal hero for the day. I had already started to remove the board when I got your message. I put everything back the way it was... and nothing. I reseated the ribbon cables and it magically works 100%. Thank you for your help getting my pin fixed.

Thank Zaza, he helped me with a similar issue on roadshow. Glad you got it fixed!

Looks stunning!! Whose decals did you use?

One was posted to Facebook for $500 yesterday. Says it's original, but I can't tell from the pics.

What are the attributes of an original topper?

That doesn't include the stuff for the lights and dome either.

Original has the correct foil that was never duplicated.

Boulder set has been arrived. While I appreciate the effort, primary color is far away from original color, secondary color is way far away, looks like a chocolate mountain... Am I the only one who expect a nice colors for this money? And no, I don't believe that the reference set was soooooo dark at Starship Fantasy, I have never seen an original dark set like this.

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Those don't even look like they were from the same molds

A few things still need tweaking but mostly finished shopping my WH20. Comet leds, Titan rubbers, OCD GI, OCD LED, Hotfoot mod, and misc new parts. 2smd sunlight in GI and 1smd in inserts. All boulders lit with warm white light strips and bulbs. Happy to share how I did that if anyone interested. A lot of work went into just trying to get everything to fit right. One thing I noticed was my rear bolder has some holes on the right where it was rubbing against the back part of the cabinet. I made the boulder sit lower, lowered the flasher dome, and sanded down the back part of the cabinet where it rubbed just to get a hair of clearance to prevent further damage. Not sure if that is a common problem. I did buy a spare boulder set from Starship but agree that they are much darker than the originals. Decided to just keep them as spares and use what I have.

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Looks like the same paint job as the Indy ruins a few years back. Way to glossy and cocoa/coffee dark.

Hello, Looking at jawjaw picture I want to share the following as I have done something similar.

I illuminated by LED (usind Noflix Target Light) the stand up targets of my WH2O ( replaced colored transparent, 5 blue, 2 white and 3 red), but so far all connected to GI. Looks nice.

I wonder if anyone has tried to make that setup interactive by connecting them to the "RIVER" lamp sockets? ( and the white arrows and the 3 red dot )

A naive connection may look strange to me as the "RIVER" target bank would start off and switch on as you hit the targets and lit the "RIVER" board insert LEDs. To me, usual pinball convention is to shoot where things are lit and shiny.

To make it "virtual drop target" they should all start the game "ON" and slowly get switch off as the "RIVER" letters on the board insert gets lit. This is where my knowledge of electronics stops, how to achieve that?

I suspect I need to keep my GI powering but add some king of transistor and connect one of the 3 legs to the "RIVER" socket light (middle one)? If anyone can give me an idea what to order and connect that would be cool

Etienne

Hey Peter I do agree with you that for that kind of money I would have expected a closer match in colors. On the other hand mine were in such bad shape that I was just excited to have some replacements.

I mixed mine in with the originals that weren’t broken, so for me it looks like different areas of natural rock, waay better Colors than the German repros though.

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Are you saying you want to tie lights behind the standup targets to the inserts? That would be coo but would be a challenge to get all the lighting just right.

Yes this is what I mean. Should be possible

You could even slip some small leds in front of the targets pointed up. It'd be a neat effect with the clear targets.

Got our machine pretty much complete now, with the addition of the Starship Fantasy boulder set.

They are a bit darker than the originals but they light up incredibly well and I'm very happy to have paid the extra money compared to the European made ones which I saw recently on a machine and they look horrible.

We've added 3 extra lights using the comet matrix products:

1. A flexie one way natural white LED on the bigfoot cave boulder
2. A multi-head flexie on the back left of the back mountain range to light the left and middle of the mountains.
3. An Ice-Blue LED behind the mountain range that spills blue over the back left ramps (tough to see in pics but gives all the ramps a nice blue tint)

We also replaced the whirlpool red lights with a collection of blue and ice blue and swapped the red and yellow billboard jackpot indicator lights to white and blue which goes with the table so much better, IMO.

The mantis protectors for the lock targets do a great job but they do prevent the softer taps from lighting the lock. Worth it though.

Really the star of the show is the way these new boulders light up.

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Just finished mine up, rebuilt everything underneath, new ramps, dome and boulders from Starship Fantasy, Titan clear silicone rubber with blue post runners. Translucent yellow pop bodies really added more lighting in that dark boulder garden. Happy to have one again!
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Hey, I like that! Now that I've gotten my feet wet going through a couple of other games top to bottom, I may do the same with my Whitewater. It could use some fixes and cleanup.

I like the ceiling modification too. I have to do that in my dad's basement for whirlwind.

I really like how you lit the boulders up they really pop now!

Hey folks have a question. I just installed a Flipper Fidelity system in my WH20, and noticed it would appear there is an unused connector with the new kit. I attached some photos for reference. Thanks so much

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Yeah I really like the clear bodies in the pops too, I think I am going to do that on mine as well. Thanks for sharing!

It takes a heap of lights but they do come up great. The bigfoot cave should be lit from the factory imo. the falls boulder range has around 10 led heads under it, which sure helps..

FYI I'm selling some cool original pencil drawings on ebay of big foot if anyone is interested.
ebay.com link: pinballvault

That's juts a link to a picture

sorry just fixed it

The listing says that this is the original drawing, but the copyright notice on the paper says 2019.

For the price and the listing title, I'd expect these to be 90's original uniques, but they're not? is that right?

These are original pencils from 1992 as the signatures in the drawings show. Williams required the copy write stamp as a condition of sale stating you cannot make parts form these drawings.

White Water topper boards are now being sold by applejuice

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-waterfall-topper-chase-lamp-board

Whitewater is my favourite WPC game and i now own a nice one that i've bene restoring over the last year or so (when not making pcbs). I decided to make a new waterfall chase lamp board as mine was missing and I wanted to make some improvements over the original design. The main improvement for my board other than bulb usage is the fact the board is now more 'intelligent' than originals. You no longer have a problem with the lamps locking on solid at boot in random patterns to when you enter the test menus. This puts unnecessary load on the bulbs and drivers at certain points and also looks a mess. By utilising a design that can read when the cpu control stops the board can disable the lamp string and then re-enable once signals start up again. This in my view is what Williams should have done and intended for the design of the topper in the first place.

See here for a quick test video showing then lamp string being enable and disabled at certain points. ie at boot the full lamp string is off until the playfield GI turns on

https://www.youtube.com/embed/KCXuuXbH6Ks?rel=0

Cheers all

Jim

What version of the software are you running?

The LH-5 rom had a problem with undesired resets. If you are using that version you should upgrade to LH-6.

If you are not using LH-5, then the resets are due to something else.

Hello guys! I need to know which kind of screw (and lenght) are originally used for the waterfall part of the topper, can anyone help me maybe posting some pics?? Thank you!!

Which waterfall? Lots of ramp here.

I mean the topper! posted some pics from the web for reference, which screws are used from factory on these ? Thanks

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As it goes on top of backbox, you have to use wooden screw, like #6 x 3/8" Unslotted Hex Head Wood Screws.

Really?? Just common hex head screws? Sorry to bother but do anyone can take a pic? Thanks!!

Here you go

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Thank you very much! Could you show the screws in the central waterfall part too??

Finally joined the club! Grail pin for me! Playfield is near perfect, cabinet a bit scuffed with some fade, but not terrible. Of course, it played perfectly at the guy’s house, but after transporting it 500 miles, it acted goofy when I fired it up. Random mine switch firing, whirlpool switch not firing, etc. Reseated all the plugs, chips, etc., which seemed to resolve it, but then something shorted and burned the J115 connector and blew a fuse, so I lost slings and pops. A little more complicated than my current skills can resolve, I had a tech come out to fix it, and he’s got the board out for repair. Can’t wait to play this thing!!

LOVE the lit boulders!! Details? This pin is one of the darkest I’ve ever seen. I had a OCD set to put in my STTNG, but I may redirect it to WH20. It’s desperate for some light.

Let the modding begin!

Tough to get a good pic without taking off the dome but here you go. Basically looks like a bolt and 2 washers.
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Congrats! Short problems suck but could be an easy fix. Look for a bare wire or the ends of a socket/coil touching metal. Coils can sometimes rotate a bit and the lugs end up touching something.

I put OCD boards in mine. Not sure it needs the OCD GI board but might as well if getting the one for inserts. Lighting all the boulders was not easy. I used mostly warm white light strips from Comet. Two 20smd light strips in the rear and another 20smd in the right boulder. For the left, I used a 20smd and 10smd. For the bigfoot cave, I used a wedge socket with a 2 head flex warm white bulb. Comet's Matrix connectors made everything easy to connect with no soldering.

To mount, I used brass strips from Hobby Lobby. They are easy to cut to size and easy to bend. I drilled a hole on one end and used existing holes to mount them. I bent them to get the best distribution of light. I also used some black construction paper in the back to help block some of the light bleeding down.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Hobbies-Collecting/Tools-Blades/Soft-Bendable-Brass-Strips/p/34683

Awesome! Any pics before plastic re-install?

Stacked 5x pf, wh20 multiball and boulder bash tonight ... started off with a double jackpot for 110 million and then you guessed it ... all 3 balls drain immediately. Ugh.

I love this game.

Need to make some adjustments so I can try to get some this weekend

Would anyone have a clue why the left ramp is not registering the shot?
The switch at the ramp start works and the opto behind bigfoot on the exit works too, but Advance Raft light before the ramp doesn't turn off (meaning the shot didn't register).
L-5 rom.

What about the switch under the boulders where the bracket usually cracks the ramp? Is that switch working ?

So there are three switches for this shot to register? Couldn't see any other switch.. so it must be one hidden under the boulders, you say?
Ok, I will check it out tomorrow.

I checked the manual before I dig under the plastics and I can only find two switches for the left ramp: num 46 and 66.
Hmmm.

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