(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

6 years ago



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There are 4383 posts in this topic. You are on page 87 of 88.
#4301 25 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I guess I have some work to do, waay better colors than the German repros on the bumpers.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No kidding I was excited until they showed up and I realized how much work I now have to do. Pop bumper rebuild kit i've been holding off doing until new boulders arrived. Now boulders are here and I see a big job ahead of me.

#4302 25 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

No kidding I was excited until they showed up and I realized how much work I now have to do. Pop bumper rebuild kit i've been holding off doing until new boulders arrived. Now boulders are here and I see a big job ahead of me.

In the middle of it, What’s cool about TPF is you can go around and pick up a lot of small stuff from each vendor.

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#4303 25 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

In the middle of it, What’s cool about TPF is you can go around and pick up a lot of small stuff from each vendor.[quoted image]

All done! Whew!

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#4304 25 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

All done! Whew![quoted image]

Nice work!

#4305 24 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

All done! Whew![quoted image]

Did you reuse the red flasher domes or put new ones on? I've seen the orange domes used and they look pretty good and was thinking bout ordering some

#4306 24 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Did you reuse the red flasher domes or put new ones on? I've seen the orange domes used and they look pretty good and was thinking bout ordering some

I swapped them on the side and the back, but I swapped the original back in(no damage) as the colors looked better, so all new in the front and sides and the stock OG in the back, I have a blue led strip on the back that makes the ramps look like there is blue water.
Finally got the mantis protectors in. Upper playfield cleaning and tear down will be next. I went floating on the Colorado in Moab,UT this summer, the whole game reminds me of the experience.

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#4307 24 days ago

How good are the pictures that Big Foot takes of himself during Camera Craze! I love the detail that went into the thinking of such things all those years ago.

#4308 24 days ago

Happy to (finally!!) join the club. Picked up this beauty yesterday, now I just have to improve my play on it!

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#4309 24 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I swapped them on the side and the back, but I swapped the original back in(no damage) as the colors looked better, so all new in the front and sides and the stock OG in the back, I have a blue led strip on the back that makes the ramps look like there is blue water.
Finally got the mantis protectors in. Upper playfield cleaning and tear down will be next. I went floating on the Colorado in Moab,UT this summer, the whole game reminds me of the experience.[quoted image]

Where did you put the blue strip in the back? I really like how it makes the ramps look.

#4310 24 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Where did you put the blue strip in the back? I really like how it makes the ramps look.

Thanks! So I bought from Cometpinball.com a matrix quick connect bayonet frosted bulb. I’m using the GI socket that is back right on the elevated playfield, put a blue bulb condom on it and the adhesive 3 or 10 blue frosted led strip stuck on the wood playfield end kinda towards the middle of the area. I’ll take a picture for you after work.

#4311 23 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Thanks! So I bought from Cometpinball.com a matrix quick connect bayonet frosted bulb. I’m using the GI socket that is back right on the elevated playfield, put a blue bulb condom on it and the adhesive 3 or 10 blue frosted led strip stuck on the wood playfield end kinda towards the middle of the area. I’ll take a picture for you after work.

Thanks! pictures would be awesome. I am going to be tearing my WH20 down soon for a restore and I am trying to plan things out.

#4312 23 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Thanks! pictures would be awesome. I am going to be tearing my WH20 down soon for a restore and I am trying to plan things out.

Here are the pictures, arrows mark the strip and the bulb locations, good luck!

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#4313 21 days ago

Finally finished stripping down my whitewater, removed the mylar, and am now starting the process of putting everything back together.

Removing Mylar is easy with the freeze spray method on this machine. Removing the mylar glue afterwards? nightmarish.

After disassembling and re-assembling 10 games in the past year in the process of shopping them out, this one is the #1 most difficult one to shop.

I'm excited to put the new (to me) ramps and mountains back on. This is actually turning out real nice.

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#4314 21 days ago

Anyone know the best place to buy a new playfield?

#4315 21 days ago
Quoted from Sgtmax:

Anyone know the best place to buy a new playfield?

to my knowledge, only Mirco is producing these:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1042-mircoplayfields/01299-white-water-playfield-set-main-and-mini

I bought a set a few months back and will be swapping it in the coming months when i restore mine.

#4316 21 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Removing the mylar glue afterwards? nightmarish.

Use naptha. Let it sit on there to soak into the glue and then it comes right off.

#4317 21 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Use naptha. Let it sit on there to soak into the glue and then it comes right off.

Next time for sure. My nightmarish method was to coat it in flower, then rub Gojo in one direction on it repeatedly until it was all up primarily using my fingertips. Took about 2 hours for all the spaces on this machine. Lost a bunch of skin on my finger tips. 0/10 would not recommend.

The results look fantastic though.

#4318 21 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

to my knowledge, only Mirco is producing these:

And if you’re following the JJP pf threads and wondering, the mirco wh20 pf looks great. At least on mine (not yet installed), the clear looks and feels solid and fully cured. I couldn’t press my fingernail into it like some can on their JJP or stern pf.

#4319 20 days ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

And if you’re following the JJP pf threads and wondering, the mirco wh20 pf looks great. At least on mine (not yet installed), the clear looks and feels solid and fully cured. I couldn’t press my fingernail into it like some can on their JJP or stern pf.

Yeah mine looks great too. I pressed my finger nail into that damn thing as hard as I could. I could see (but barely feel) the faintest indentation, couldn't see it unless I held the PF in the light at an angle. Seems pretty solid to me. My Funhouse PH I got from Mirco was solid as well.

#4320 20 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

My nightmarish method was to coat it in flower, then rub Gojo in one direction on it repeatedly until it was all up primarily using my fingertips. Took about 2 hours for all the spaces on this machine. Lost a bunch of skin on my finger tips. 0/10 would not recommend.

Jesus god no man; you're in the wrong decade
That's SS technique...diamond plate comes up easy

#4321 20 days ago

Installed the shaker motor from Pinshakers definitely a value add...

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#4322 20 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Yeah mine looks great too. I pressed my finger nail into that damn thing as hard as I could. I could see (but barely feel) the faintest indentation, couldn't see it unless I held the PF in the light at an angle. Seems pretty solid to me. My Funhouse PH I got from Mirco was solid as well.

Quoted from TheLaw:

Jesus god no man; you're in the wrong decade
That's SS technique...diamond plate comes up easy

Doesn't everyone know by now you cant play your NIB game for 1 year till playfield cures?

#4323 20 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Finally finished stripping down my whitewater, removed the mylar, and am now starting the process of putting everything back together.
Removing Mylar is easy with the freeze spray method on this machine. Removing the mylar glue afterwards? nightmarish.
After disassembling and re-assembling 10 games in the past year in the process of shopping them out, this one is the #1 most difficult one to shop.
I'm excited to put the new (to me) ramps and mountains back on. This is actually turning out real nice.

I notice in your picture you‘ve removed the larger rubber ring on the two posts next to the rightmost bumpers and put small rings on each. It seems to me some folks here have recommended to remove the posts entirely and cover the holes with small circles of mylar. I‘m thinking about removing the large ring on my game, now you‘ve presented a further alternative. Was it a conscious choice on your part to leave the posts in?

#4324 20 days ago
Quoted from branlon8:

I notice in your picture you‘ve removed the larger rubber ring on the two posts next to the rightmost bumpers and put small rings on each. It seems to me some folks here have recommended to remove the posts entirely and cover the holes with small circles of mylar. I‘m thinking about removing the large ring on my game, now you‘ve presented a further alternative. Was it a conscious choice on your part to leave the posts in?

Honestly, as I was replacing nasty rubbers I put fresh rubbers of the same size over the old ones. In other words, that is the way mine came and I assumed that is the way it is supposed to be. I'm going to leave mine this way as thats the way I know my game.

Putting ramps back on this weekend!

#4325 20 days ago

Shop out is almost finished!

Switched out to all new Comet 2SMD LEDs
Touched up paint on cabinet
Replaced all rubbers
Removed Mylar (brutal)
New topper dome
Replaced all mountains with better hand me downs
Replaced incorrect color multiball targets with original green color ones
Replaced all ramps with better used hand me downs

After putting it back together I'm getting the replace fuse error and opening it up they're blown. Will replace them tonight.

Machine looks many times better than it did and after fuses are fixed and I play a few games I expect to be putting up a ton of parts in the marketplace (individual mountains, Vuks, brackets, etc).

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#4326 20 days ago

Looks great! What lighting did you add?

#4327 20 days ago

I added a 4$ strip light in the trough from comet, and a RGB light strip for the back wall from someplace else (can't remember). The Comet strip light in the bottom was easy to install and worked great. I'd get the comet brand backlight next time for the rear above the mountains. All other lights replaced by Comet 2 SMD LEDs to include the flashers... excepting the topper lights. The topper lights are actually 14v and you will melt normal LEDs if you toss them up there.

#4328 20 days ago

I like the way the back area under the ramps is well lit above and under the ramps. I don't think it's a good idea using leds in the topper, though. Everyone says it ruins the effect. I plan on leaving the 194 bulbs in the topper but replacing everything else with leds and light strips for boulders.

#4329 20 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I added a 4$ strip light in the trough from comet, and a RGB light strip for the back wall from someplace else (can't remember). The Comet strip light in the bottom was easy to install and worked great. I'd get the comet brand backlight next time for the rear above the mountains. All other lights replaced by Comet 2 SMD LEDs to include the flashers... excepting the topper lights. The topper lights are actually 14v and you will melt normal LEDs if you toss them up there.

For the GI, I am assuming 2SMD Frosted Cool/Natural White's?

I like the look! has me amped to get my resto going.

#4330 20 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

For the GI, I am assuming 2SMD Frosted Cool/Natural White's?
I like the look! has me amped to get my resto going.

For this shop job, on the lighting side I ordered the following from Comet.

100-PACK-2SMD2835BA49SNWFT 2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs - Bayonet (44/47) / Cool White (Natural White) / Frosted 1
KIT-OUTHOLE-NW Trough Lighting Kit - Cool White (Natural White) 3
100-PACK-2SMD2835T10NWFT 2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs - Wedge (555) / Cool White (Natural White) / Frosted 1
25-PACK-8SMDG18BAYONETNW 8SMD Flashers, 25 Packs - Bayonet (89) / Cool White (Natural White) 1

Please note that I don't have the exact count, but ordered too many bayonets, too many flashers, and not enough wedge.

I'd recommend 75 bayonets, 125 wedge, and 15 flashers. I'd also recommend a strip light for over the rocks in the back and a trough light.

If I could go back and do it again I'd at a minimum replace the 6 colored condom sleeves at the base of the whirlpool with colored LEDs or new sleeves. It comes with red sleeves, but I think the blue ones look cool... or maybe color changing. Theses are wedge based.

#4331 20 days ago

If you want to keep the dimming effects with leds then you need both LED OCD and GI OCD, right?

#4332 20 days ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

If you want to keep the dimming effects with leds then you need both LED OCD and GI OCD, right?

Correct. some games need it, others dont (though that is personal preference). When I re-did funhouse, it totally needed the LED OCD (I left out the GI). When I re-did TZ the LED strobing wasnt bad at all so I didnt feel it was needed. I don't play in a dark room, so the lack of GI dimming doesnt really bother me.

I will probably wait until I am done with my WH20 resto and see if it needs it.

#4333 20 days ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

And if you’re following the JJP pf threads and wondering, the mirco wh20 pf looks great. At least on mine (not yet installed), the clear looks and feels solid and fully cured. I couldn’t press my fingernail into it like some can on their JJP or stern pf.

Mine looks fantastic, it's been a year now. I might have overtightened a few star posts not knowing about the JJP issues but I just checked last night and there is no pooling or chipping anywhere. Looks just as good as my Hobbit. I think the JJP recipe for POTC and WW is different than those used on the repro playfields, certainly looks thicker.

Fun fact: Mirco describes this as a ceramic clear. After art and primer are put down, an epoxy clear is used, and then the ceramic clear goes on top. Ceramic clear does not actually contain ceramic elements, but is instead cutting edge nano technology (such as silicon carbide tubes) suspended in a liquid polymer that includes metallic oxides.

#4334 19 days ago

So now fuse 115 burns out every time I turn the game on (114 is fine). It had to have been something I did under the playfield. Any suggestions for first things to try? I've got one light on the mini play field that isn't working. Also, the topper isn't working anymore. Any ideas before I go through 50 fuses troubleshooting?

Thanks!

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#4335 19 days ago

Look for a short, wire pinched by a screw somewhere or toughing metal. Doesn't take much...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/18#post-2256757

#4336 19 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

So now fuse 115 burns out every time I turn the game on (114 is fine). It had to have been something I did under the playfield. Any suggestions for first things to try? I've got one light on the mini play field that isn't working. Also, the topper isn't working anymore. Any ideas before I go through 50 fuses troubleshooting?
Thanks![quoted image]

Do you have the manual??? Im not at home so I cant look for you. It will say what 115 goes to.

#4337 19 days ago

F114 is the lamp matric
F115 is the switch matrix

Unfortunately you are going to have to go hunting for a loose wire or miss-connection.

#4338 19 days ago

2 Steps Forward, 1 step back. I identified the short (it was in the switch pictured) and repaired it properly I believe. I no longer get the F114 and F115 message and the fuse doesn't burn out. However, now I get "GND. SHORT ROW 1 IS STUCK CLOSE". I understand I have a short in my machine somewhere but don't understand where it is. If someone could point to where on this board GND SHORT ROW 1 was" I would greatly appreciate it. I understand there is a 99% chance the short is somewhere I was messing with under the playfield during shop out, but don't even know what color wire to look for.

All of the help is greatly appreciated.

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#4339 19 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

For this shop job, on the lighting side I ordered the following from Comet.
100-PACK-2SMD2835BA49SNWFT 2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs - Bayonet (44/47) / Cool White (Natural White) / Frosted 1
KIT-OUTHOLE-NW Trough Lighting Kit - Cool White (Natural White) 3
100-PACK-2SMD2835T10NWFT 2SMD Bulbs, 100 Packs - Wedge (555) / Cool White (Natural White) / Frosted 1
25-PACK-8SMDG18BAYONETNW 8SMD Flashers, 25 Packs - Bayonet (89) / Cool White (Natural White) 1
Please note that I don't have the exact count, but ordered too many bayonets, too many flashers, and not enough wedge.
I'd recommend 75 bayonets, 125 wedge, and 15 flashers. I'd also recommend a strip light for over the rocks in the back and a trough light.
If I could go back and do it again I'd at a minimum replace the 6 colored condom sleeves at the base of the whirlpool with colored LEDs or new sleeves. It comes with red sleeves, but I think the blue ones look cool... or maybe color changing. Theses are wedge based.

Looks good........wondering what this looks like playing in a dark room.........would it be too bright?

#4340 19 days ago

Ground Short Row 1.
White-Brown wire J209-1 CPU Board.
U19-11 CPU board.
They connect to Slam Tilt,River R2,Light Lock Left, Left Sling, Whirpool Poper and Rapids Ramp Main., switches.

#4341 19 days ago

im in the club. its a beater but it was a good price with the color dmd. one quick question how did everyone light up your boulders? please link me to your post on what you did. i like that and my game is bone stock.

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#4342 19 days ago

also if anyone is going to chicago pinball expo and wants to sell old or new parts please contact me. im collecting them.

#4343 19 days ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

im in the club. its a beater but it was a good price with the color dmd. one quick question how did everyone light up your boulders? please link me to your post on what you did. i like that and my game is bone stock.[quoted image][quoted image]

Look for Rockytop posts in this thread. He did an awesome job lighting up the boulders with the Comet Matrix light strips. I plan on doing the same with warm white light strips and sunlight gi. Nice thing about the Comet Matrix stuff is that if something doesn't look right it is super easy to change since everything is connected using connectors. I also like using the dimmers to tune the brightness just right. Hope to get started shopping my Whitewater this weekend. I don't have a lot of free time so it might take a while. Luckily my game is in good shape but still lots of work to do. I will definitely post pics once I am done.

#4344 16 days ago

Quick Version: I did something stupid and over-fused my machine, have narrowed down the problem, but it seems to be on the board. I’d appreciate some troubleshooting help. If I remove the connector from the board J209 that is having the issues, I still get the same errors.
If I do need to replace the board, is it better to send for repair or just rottendog replace?

Long version: I just LED’d and replaced a ton of crap in my White Water. After turning it back on I got the message to check fuse 114 and 115. Only 114 was burnt. I replaced a ¾ amp fuse with a 1 amp fuse because I misread the chart/am an idiot. Fired it back on and the fuse immediately burnt out (so I 100% sent a 1 amp current through a ¾ amp circuit). I then troubleshot the machine and found that I had a switch that was causing a grounding issue and fixed it. Replaced the fuse, with a 1 amp fuse, and turned it back on. Got to the WhiteWater screen, test errors for all of the river switches, and ground row errors for white yellow, white purple, white grey, and white blue along with the VUKs firing like it is in ball search mode. I have spent over 4 hours searching for the ground in the machine, literally unplugged every connection to the upper playfield, and have found no shorts. I traced those wires all the way to their termination points, no grounds or kinks. In my desperation to fix the machine I went back and discovered the overfusing error and replaced F114 with the correct fuse. No change. After very carefully making sure the river switches had no grounding issues, I did a hard reboot on the machine (took the battery out) and the river errors went away, but I still have the ball search vuk kicks going on.
I figured out that my grounding error messages are all related to the connectors on J209 of the CPU board. If I unplug that connector, all of the error codes go away except for the white/yellow grounding error, which is clearly in J209 and leads me to believe that the problem is on the board. I have removed the board and carefully scraped excess solder away from iffy connection points and had no forward progress from this.
I’m running out of ideas on ways that I might be able to fix this and am open to ideas. If I did fry some connectors on the board I can’t see, should I be sending it off for repair, attempting something myself, or just getting a rottendog replacement?
Any and all help greatly appreciated.

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#4345 16 days ago

Try changing the swich matrix ICs.
The socketed ones just below your NV ram .
If you put 12v down the switch matrix then will blow.
Its been an age since I did any fault finding on B/W games (or any games at all!)

#4346 16 days ago

Send you board to Clive at Coin Op Cauldron. Well worth it.

#4347 16 days ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

Try changing the swich matrix ICs.
The socketed ones just below your NV ram .
If you put 12v down the switch matrix then will blow.
Its been an age since I did any fault finding on B/W games (or any games at all!)

You are very wise. Zooming in on the few pictures I took when I removed it to troubleshoot last night, there appears to be a dark mark on one of the connectors along with a crack in the chip itself. Assuming this was indeed the issue, how would I go about getting a replacement for this? I have attached the picture in question and highlighted the chip in question in red.

To others here, does that look like a bad chip?

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#4348 16 days ago

Usually you can't visually see anything wrong with a chip, but a crack is never good.

#4349 16 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Usually you can't visually see anything wrong with a chip, but a crack is never good.

Allright, just found the replacement part number in the manual and ordered a replacement. I'll let you guys know later this week when it shows up how it works.

Thanks for the help guys!

#4350 15 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

You are very wise. Zooming in on the few pictures I took when I removed it to troubleshoot last night, there appears to be a dark mark on one of the connectors along with a crack in the chip itself. Assuming this was indeed the issue, how would I go about getting a replacement for this? I have attached the picture in question and highlighted the chip in question in red.
To others here, does that look like a bad chip?[quoted image]

Thats definitely toast all right!!!
Happy to help,

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