(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

6 years ago



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  • 4,430 posts
  • 433 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by applejuice
  • Topic is favorited by 194 Pinsiders

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There are 4430 posts in this topic. You are on page 86 of 89.
#4251 63 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

At that price i'll just go carve some rocks, drill some holes in them and call it a day.

Brace yourself for the repro topper decal.

#4252 62 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey everyone just thought I would let you know starship fantasy has boulder sets in stock finally. Better grab a set before they disappear again, i'm sure these are gonna go very quickly.

Thanks for posting! just grabbed myself a set.

#4253 62 days ago

A few other things on my pending resto:

Armor: learning towards chrome but I am intrigued my some of the custom powder coat jobs I've seen (I have already been talked out of doing white, heh). Anyone have any good pics to sway me one direction or another?

Mirror blades: look good on Wh20?

#4254 62 days ago

Can anyone tell me why some PF's have a red Ball Save Insert and others have a Yellow? I've noticed in the gallery, games have either or...I was just curious if this had something to do with the time frame the PF was made..thanks!

#4255 61 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Can anyone tell me why some PF's have a red Ball Save Insert and others have a Yellow? I've noticed in the gallery, games have either or...I was just curious if this had something to do with the time frame the PF was made..thanks!

Interesting.. I've never actually noticed a difference but now after looking mine is yellow/orange.

#4256 61 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Interesting.. I've never actually noticed a difference but now after looking mine is yellow/orange.

Sun Process manufacturer vs Lenc Smith? Different companies made the playfields. For Williams.

#4257 61 days ago

If you take your apron off you can tell under the left bracket who made it.

CB10C0C8-88CD-4ACC-AC79-A31675DAFBEA (resized).jpegF148648D-0353-43F7-A8C5-65CB8AF2D9D4 (resized).jpeg
#4258 61 days ago

Anyone know what screws hold the right ramp onto the upper pf? Mine are missing.

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#4259 61 days ago

After 12 months of solid play i finally hit my first JP

Screenshot_20190819-145835 (resized).png
#4260 61 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone know what screws hold the right ramp onto the upper pf? Mine are missing.[quoted image]

Regular ramp screws should do ya

#4261 61 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone know what screws hold the right ramp onto the upper pf? Mine are missing.[quoted image]

https://www.pinballlife.com/ramp-screw.html

#4263 61 days ago
Quoted from tac007:

After 12 months of solid play i finally hit my first JP[quoted image]

Congrats! Had mine a year and a half and still haven't hit it yet

#4264 61 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Perfect. Thanks for the link.

Mine kept coming loose (probably slightly stripped), so I ended up grabbing ones slightly bigger from the HW store.

#4265 60 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Mine kept coming loose (probably slightly stripped), so I ended up grabbing ones slightly bigger from the HW store.

Any time I have a stripped wood screw in a game I add a piece of toothpick to the hole and maybe a tiny drop of Elmer's wood glue if it is something that has to be tightened down really hard. Don't believe I've ever had one work back loose when using that method.

#4266 60 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Any time I have a stripped wood screw in a game I add a piece of toothpick to the hole and maybe a tiny drop of Elmer's wood glue if it is something that has to be tightened down really hard. Don't believe I've ever had one work back loose when using that method.

Great method, used on guitars as well.

#4267 60 days ago

If the hole is larger, you can use a golf tee. Very good for door hinges.

#4268 60 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Any time I have a stripped wood screw in a game I add a piece of toothpick to the hole and maybe a tiny drop of Elmer's wood glue if it is something that has to be tightened down really hard. Don't believe I've ever had one work back loose when using that method.

Same here. Don't skip the wood glue, though. I have tried it with just toothpicks and doesn't work as well without glue.

#4269 60 days ago

Toothpicks, Bamboo Skerwers, wood glue, gorilla glue...it all works.

#4270 60 days ago

Optimally do you wait to let the Glue dry before screwing?

#4271 60 days ago
Quoted from pinballdork:

Optimally do you wait to let the Glue dry before screwing?

Sure but to be honest it doesn't matter much, don't have to wait for an actual drying time, so don't overthink it.
When using gorilla glue it will just keep expanding and keep grabbing (Although I wouldn't use gorilla on something like this under a clear plastic).

#4272 60 days ago
Quoted from pinballdork:

Optimally do you wait to let the Glue dry before screwing?

Let glue cure for a few minutes then put in ramp screws. The glue will then grab the screw as it dries.

#4273 60 days ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

I've been meaning to start this thread for a while now. You beat me to it. I'll have to put some pics up of my baby. It's still got the original art in really nice shape. Playfield is close to perfect. No bubbles in the topper. PDI glass, chromed coindoor, siderails, etc. mirror blades. I'm still working on the lighting but currently I've got colored non-ghosting LEDs in the inserts and I'm using a mix of normal and colored incadescents for the GI.
The color DMD is next on my list for MODs.
So far I've got:
-Bigfoot spolight MOD from Pinball Life (my favorite)
-Missing Mountain from Red West (close second)
-Rear mountain LED illumination (from eBay)
-Yellow rafts (from eBay)
-Bear MOD (from Michaels, with my own homemade bracket)
Does anybody have the waterfall MOD from Pinball Decals? That looks cool but is really pricey and the youtube video doesn't really help much

This brings back a lot of memories. Had to sell mine a while back, and now, I kinda wish I didn't.

#4274 60 days ago

Little help please ...as I have a couple of days off my new to me Whitewater has one issue to clear up.
When the ball goes into the lost mine from the playfield down 3 of 5 times the ball will not kick back up? If the ball comes from the whirlpool no issues.
The solenoid tests perfect as well as the optos.
I'm thinking that the raised fins on the up kicker are stopping the ball from centering itself on the upkicker
If it does not land in there correctly the first time?
Any suggestions?

#4275 60 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

I'm thinking that the raised fins on the up kicker are stopping the ball from centering itself on the upkicker

That could be the issue. If one or more of the fins are worn or broken, the ball will not be centered and may not kick out.

#4276 60 days ago

Ok what’s the trick to getting out the whirlpool ramp? I need to put two screws into the ramp underneath it and can’t get this thing off for anything. It appears attached to the upper playfield somehow?

#4277 60 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Ok what’s the trick to getting out the whirlpool ramp? I need to put two screws into the ramp underneath it and can’t get this thing off for anything. It appears attached to the upper playfield somehow?

You need to remove the upper playfield. The ramp is attached to the underside.

#4278 60 days ago

Finally got some time to take the glass off of the machine. The symptom was that when shooting up the "multi millions ramp" you wouldn't get the award or get the flashing yellow error ramp. The switches register and make sound. However, upon doing a switch test I have discovered that the opto behind the yeti registers as "disaster drop". How do I fix this? I am assuming there are two wires in the backbox, or two wires under the playfield that got crossed. If someone has a simple fix I would appreciate the help.

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#4279 59 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey everyone just thought I would let you know starship fantasy has boulder sets in stock finally. Better grab a set before they disappear again, i'm sure these are gonna go very quickly.

Shipping confirmation!!!

#4280 59 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Shipping confirmation!!!

Holy F-ing shit!!! I have been waiting for these damn boulders for almost 2 years now and I just got the shipping confirmation as well. High fives to us J67ab!

#4281 59 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Holy F-ing shit!!! I jave been waiting for these damn bojlders for almost 2 years now and I just got the shipping confirmation as well. High fives to us J67ab!

Sweetness, I have like 7 things to do when these boulders go in, rebuilding the popbumpers, cliffy’s, excited !!!

#4282 59 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Sweetness, I have like 7 things to do when these boulders go in, rebuilding the popbumpers, cliffy’s, excited !!!

Haha me too way to funny.. Never could take the one pop boulder off cause its hot glued in place. I bought the the full set of cliffys 2 years ago been waiting for these boulders to install them.

#4283 59 days ago

got my shipping notice today as well. happy day.

#4284 59 days ago

For the life of me, all of a sudden Big Foots paddle is hitting the bottom of the ramp and I can’t lower the ramp anymore

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#4285 59 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Finally got some time to take the glass off of the machine. The symptom was that when shooting up the "multi millions ramp" you wouldn't get the award or get the flashing yellow error ramp. The switches register and make sound. However, upon doing a switch test I have discovered that the opto behind the yeti registers as "disaster drop". How do I fix this? I am assuming there are two wires in the backbox, or two wires under the playfield that got crossed. If someone has a simple fix I would appreciate the help.[quoted image]

I would start with the harnesses that get unplugged to remove the upper playfield. Some of them are the same size and its possible these were simply swapped out during a previous teardown. Do yourself a favor and when you get them sorted, number the harness connections on each side of the molex connector (both sides of connection gets a number, 1, 2, 3, etc.). That should make it much easier to reconnect the upper playfield after a teardown and also help to prevent you from unplugging harness connectors that don't need to be unplugged. Some people use a sharpie to number the molex connectors, but you can also get little numbered electrician's stickers at Lowes or Home Depot that are basically made for this type of application.

If that doesn't work you can pull out the manual and it should tell you where the switches connect to the PCB. You can use your multimeter set on continuity to confirm where any particular wire is going.

#4286 59 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

For the life of me, all of a sudden Big Foots paddle is hitting the bottom of the ramp and I can’t lower the ramp anymore[quoted image]

It's been too long since I've broken down the upper playfield to say exactly what it is, but something isn't aligned right. When its assembled correctly everything will fall into place. There's not really any room for error so it's not something where bending or forcing is the answer. Incorrect alignment also tends to screw up the ball travel so make sure you get it right. I've found that the order of reassembly can affect the ease of the process.

#4287 59 days ago

I am in real need of this bigfoot opto bracket. Does anyone have a spare or maybe have one on a parts machine that they could let go of? If you have this part please send me a pm. Thanks

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#4288 59 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

I am in real need of this bigfoot opto bracket. Does anyone have a spare or maybe have one on a parts machine that they could let go of? If you have this part please send me a pm. Thanks[quoted image]

What about 3D print? This part holds optos only, no ball contact normally.

#4289 59 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

What about 3D print? This part holds optos only, no ball contact normally.

Hey Peter I would go that route except i'm missing the part completely so have no way to replicate it.

#4290 59 days ago

Thank you for the responses. sataneatscheese may have the part I need and will let me know for sure. If he doesn't I will proceed with my begging for one from someone else

#4291 59 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey Peter I would go that route except i'm missing the part completely so have no way to replicate it.

If all else fails, let me know, I can do the design quickly.

#4292 58 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Anyone have experience (good or bad) with the 3D translite? I need a new Wh20 translite and it looks like the 3D one isn't THAT much more expensive than a regular one, but wanted opinions.

if you look at dr. frighteners for sale posts he has a 3d one installed in his, looks pretty good in person. but they are $300.

#4293 58 days ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

if you look at dr. frighteners for sale posts he has a 3d one installed in his, looks pretty good in person. but they are $300.

$199.00 at Planetary

#4294 58 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Thank you for the responses. sataneatscheese may have the part I need and will let me know for sure. If he doesn't I will proceed with my begging for one from someone else

Despite having over 40 extra metal parts for this machine and more than a dozen brackets, I do not have the part you need. If it was me I'd buy an erector set and get creative. Good luck!

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#4295 58 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Despite having over 40 extra metal parts for this machine and more than a dozen brackets, I do not have the part you need. If it was me I'd buy an erector set and get creative. Good luck![quoted image]

Well damn that sucks. Does anyone else have one of these brackets they would be willing to get rid of?

#4296 58 days ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

I would start with the harnesses that get unplugged to remove the upper playfield. Some of them are the same size and its possible these were simply swapped out during a previous teardown. Do yourself a favor and when you get them sorted, number the harness connections on each side of the molex connector (both sides of connection gets a number, 1, 2, 3, etc.). That should make it much easier to reconnect the upper playfield after a teardown and also help to prevent you from unplugging harness connectors that don't need to be unplugged. Some people use a sharpie to number the molex connectors, but you can also get little numbered electrician's stickers at Lowes or Home Depot that are basically made for this type of application.
If that doesn't work you can pull out the manual and it should tell you where the switches connect to the PCB. You can use your multimeter set on continuity to confirm where any particular wire is going.

You sir, are a genius. There were exactly 2 plugs that had been switched. Took 30 seconds to fix and immediately got my high score afterwards. It's like a new game now that I can properly play it. Thank you!

#4297 57 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

You sir, are a genius. There were exactly 2 plugs that had been switched. Took 30 seconds to fix and immediately got my high score afterwards. It's like a new game now that I can properly play it. Thank you!

Glad you got it sorted! Figuring out exactly which harness points need disconnecting for the removal of the upper playfield and then numbering those harness connectors takes some time but it's well worth the effort in the long run. Probably a task best suited for the next time to tear down for cleaning.

#4298 56 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Well damn that sucks. Does anyone else have one of these brackets they would be willing to get rid of?

Mission completed! The factory bracket is not ideal (need to bend the legs), this version is improved.
Tested on a spare mini playfield with ball guides and optos.

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#4299 56 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Mission completed! The factory bracket is not ideal (need to bend the legs), this version is improved.
Tested on a spare mini playfield with ball guides and optos.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Peter that is amazing! Great job.

#4300 55 days ago

I guess I have some work to do, waay better colors than the German repros on the bumpers.

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