I finished the bottom side shop yesterday, replacing the coil sleeves, replacing bulbs, cleaning the subway, much easier than the top. even getting to bulbs in the mini pf wasn’t that bad. The top side, ugh.

It's a pain, but far from the worst game I've shopped. Just be cognizant of the order in which you remove things in, and everything else will fall into place. I can't tell you how many times I had to take the upper playfield back out because I forgot a screw, ramp entrance, or other small little thing. Just make sure you really clean out the backside of the game, because you'll never want to tear it down again to get back there in the future!

I find System 11 games to be FAR worse to tear down. Seems like William's was just starting to figure things out back then. Good luck, it'll be worth it!

I was having some flaky opto issues with the opto on the back by the whirlpool popper so I took it apart and I realized it was just kind of hanging there and apparently I am missing the bracket that holds it together. After checkinh all the local guys like marco and pinballlife and some others i've realized its not for sale. If anybody has an extra one of these brackets that's in the pic and would like to sell it or donate it or whatever you want to do please PM me.

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I've been working on shopping my game and thought the mountains in the back looked a bit drab so I lit them red from underneath. I think it looks much better and gives a little bit of life to the back of the game.

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I was thinking of doing something similar when I restore mine next month. Did you just use an LED strip?

Yes, you can run it up from the bottom of the playfield and then just lay the strip across the ramp. I clipped it to a GI socket down below the pf. Very easy.

I'm in the process of making a connector for my J115 on the driver board due to a hack job repair.

Would someone please post a pic of their J115 wiring? (I have a new RD WDB089 pcb on its way)

Thanks in advance, Steveo

here's a pic of my J115 after direct soldiered wires were cut/removed (yep, they spliced and soldiered in different colored wires)

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I’ve repaired mine (replaced header and connector) so not the original wiring.

Look at the manual page 3-39.

My picture corresponds to my hand written notes on the manual page.

73906021-0BAE-4B99-8DF8-1B5C030562B9 (resized).jpegGood luck!
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Thank you kindly zene10 for your pics. Hopefully I can throw on my lifejacket and battle me some whitewater this evening!
(My WH2O has been down way too long)
~Steveo

Does anybody know where to get the proper insulated fenale connectors that connect to microswitches and what size they are? I ordered some I thought were the right ones but were twice as big as the ones I need.

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Just finished working on my game and thought I'd share a few pics, a lot was done.

Cleaned and flame polished the ramps, new rubber, cleaned subway, new coil sleeves, warm white LEDs everywhere, mirror blades, color dmd, new front and head decals, rebuilt GI connector and header pins, painted the coin door gloss black, perfect play flipper rubber, external sub hookup, and overall cleaning and vacuuming. Game came out really well and plays perfectly...knock on wood.

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Are you going to leave the clear plastic topper dome off of the top? I had mine off for a while and thought it looked good without.

Looks like he may have done that bcuz of needed clearance of the ceiling.

Well, I’m embarrassed to admit this, but I put 555s in there to replace the existing incandescents. Those who know the game, unlike me apparently, will know what happened next. Yep, melted leds. Luckily, no damage. I’m just waiting for 194 bulbs, incandescent!

Common mistake...just say'in.

looks great ..................except, I don't get the red led's on the mountains?

Was kind of drab back there, I like the look. It’s lit from underneath the mountains.

Just put white ones under the mountains.
red looks silly

I think Yellow/Amber led strip under back mountains gives a more natural look.

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I have yellow/Amber in 12v, may give that a try.

Anyone need some pinblades? Had a spare set, I have some on my WH20 fits the theme perfect

SOLD!

Mod - For Sale

Whitewater pingraffix art blades Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Had a spare set brand new 79.00 new.”

2019-06-18

Walnut Creek, CA

Soulrider911

48 (OBO)

Archived after: 1 day

Viewed: 75 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

Is there any particular reason why my coindoor interface board has no header pins at J5? I tested 12vpower and ground and both register. If there's no reason it's missing, I'll solder in a header and use the 12v for a mod.

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I have a few who have the header and some who don't.
You can solder a header in to use it, (done that myself )

Just a question pertaining to this issue that I was wondering about. Soldering in a header pin where the factory didn't add one and then using that as a power lead would that cause a higher draw and potentially lead to fuses being blown on that particular circuit? Or is it already rated for that additional draw but Williams just didn't feel the need to add that other header pin during production run?

Everything you add to a circuit will draw more, thats why people with many electronic mods add an external powersupply.
When that header is not needed in a specific game, it will reduce costs.
Adding a LED-strip or something similar will not cause any problems (YMMV)

I've recently played this game for the first time and had a lot of fun with it, thus now thinking of buying one.

Could you help me and list a "top 3 or so" things to look out for when buying one?

I know the topper is hard to find separately but what else to think of? I know the ramps are expensive (and many). What about mechanical problems, any common problems there? Any unobtainable part that is crucial to its function?

Any help is appreciated.

I haven’t had my game long, but coindoor interface board is nla. Ramps are available, I think most stuff is available. Others can chime in who are more familiar with the game. Go on Ks arcade or Marco to see what parts are available, eBay too.

Cracked / broken mountains are a problem. They have been out of stock for quite a while. Reproductions are supposedly going to be available "in about two months", but they've been saying that for several years now.

Down to "1 or 2 more weeks" for the past 4 or 5 months.... so that's something!

They must be getting closer because they were $119 a set and now Larry has jacked the price up to $192 still states out of stock though!

I noticed that as well, took effect here in the last week or so.

Inflation i guess? Nothing like a 70% price increase for some nice plastic pieces.

My WH2O has started acting up. Running LH-6 ROM. Turn machine on and it begins normal start up testing, Bigfoot head spins continuously and machine does not boot up. Can not get into game menu to run any switch tests.

Have already re-seated ribbon cables and ROM chip. Appreciate suggestions from fellow owners.

If you still have batteries on your mpu have you changed them out?

Yes, still running with batteries that I replace every 2-3 years. Have never had any loss of machine memory in over 10 years. Current batteries 1 year old, reading 1.46 volts each. Put new batteries in just to see if makes any difference. Still no boot up. LEDs on cpu show normal D19 is off, D20 blinks, D21 stays on. Sound board gives normal 1 Beep.
No cycling of feature lamps. I unplugged lamp matrix J137 connector on the driver board and now CPU will boot up and I can access game menus. Bigfoot motor and Optos working correct.
So now I just need to figure out if the problem is on the Driver board or the CPU board.
Anyone have ideas ?

Your initial post said your machine started acting up what was it doing when it was acting up? And do we assume that even though it was acting up it was booting and playing and then all of a sudden it just started to not boot?

Yeah, I was not clear about the situation. Game had not been played for roughly 2 weeks. Would not boot up when turned on 2 days ago. I have owned this pin for over 15 years, and other than 1 or 2 switch errors years ago it has always been reliable. It has always started up just fine until now.

Just installed the latest home rom, which has the ball saver in it. Game boots into german, thought I was going to have to mess with resistors on the cpu to get it back to English, but just changing the language setting in the adjustment menu fixed it. Took me a while to find the setting as I don’t speak or read German,

Thanks to astill entertainment for the ROM, great service out of our northern neighbor.

Two great pins and two great towns in Kansas!

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What a great sighting.

I am possibly joining this club on Thursday. I did a trade with cash for my walking dead. The photos looked great so I’m hoping for the best!!

Sweet! Hop on in theres room on the raft now grab a paddle

I'm on the way in as well... due to the long distance ,holidays and schedule conflicts its been a long road.
However soon enough it will arrive to its new home.

I just hope the game looks as good as the photos in person!!

I'm in need of the orbit ball guide before I can start restoring this serious project. Anyone have a lead on this part?

Full fledged member this week.

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fun game, and that one still got good color on the cabinet.

Welcome! Great choice

I see LED on the chaselight topper, GE194 14volt 0.27amp 10mm wedgelamp are the ones great for the waterfall effect

Yeah, will go back to incandescent on the topper.

ugh, and they are blue