(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

5 years ago



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  • 4,153 posts
  • 412 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Trooper11040
  • Topic is favorited by 186 Pinsiders

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There are 4153 posts in this topic. You are on page 83 of 84.
#4101 35 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Yes amazingly WH20 is one of the most expensive games to restore, I think the ramps alone cost me close to 700.00

I finished the bottom side shop yesterday, replacing the coil sleeves, replacing bulbs, cleaning the subway, much easier than the top. even getting to bulbs in the mini pf wasn’t that bad. The top side, ugh.

#4102 35 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Man, this game is a bear to shop

It's a pain, but far from the worst game I've shopped. Just be cognizant of the order in which you remove things in, and everything else will fall into place. I can't tell you how many times I had to take the upper playfield back out because I forgot a screw, ramp entrance, or other small little thing. Just make sure you really clean out the backside of the game, because you'll never want to tear it down again to get back there in the future!

I find System 11 games to be FAR worse to tear down. Seems like William's was just starting to figure things out back then. Good luck, it'll be worth it!

#4103 33 days ago

I was having some flaky opto issues with the opto on the back by the whirlpool popper so I took it apart and I realized it was just kind of hanging there and apparently I am missing the bracket that holds it together. After checkinh all the local guys like marco and pinballlife and some others i've realized its not for sale. If anybody has an extra one of these brackets that's in the pic and would like to sell it or donate it or whatever you want to do please PM me.

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#4104 31 days ago

I've been working on shopping my game and thought the mountains in the back looked a bit drab so I lit them red from underneath. I think it looks much better and gives a little bit of life to the back of the game.

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#4105 31 days ago

I was thinking of doing something similar when I restore mine next month. Did you just use an LED strip?

#4106 31 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I was thinking of doing something similar when I restore mine next month. Did you just use an LED strip?

Yes, you can run it up from the bottom of the playfield and then just lay the strip across the ramp. I clipped it to a GI socket down below the pf. Very easy.

#4107 31 days ago

I'm in the process of making a connector for my J115 on the driver board due to a hack job repair.

Would someone please post a pic of their J115 wiring? (I have a new RD WDB089 pcb on its way)

Thanks in advance, Steveo

here's a pic of my J115 after direct soldiered wires were cut/removed (yep, they spliced and soldiered in different colored wires)

J115 WH2O (resized).jpg
#4108 31 days ago
Quoted from steve-o:

I'm in the process of making a connector for my J115 on the driver board due to a hack job repair.
Would someone please post a pic of their J115 wiring? (I have a new RD WDB089 pcb on its way)
Thanks in advance, Steveo
here's a pic of my J115 after direct soldiered wires were cut/removed (yep, they spliced and soldiered in different colored wires)[quoted image]

I’ve repaired mine (replaced header and connector) so not the original wiring.

Look at the manual page 3-39.

My picture corresponds to my hand written notes on the manual page.

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#4109 30 days ago

Thank you kindly zene10 for your pics. Hopefully I can throw on my lifejacket and battle me some whitewater this evening!
(My WH2O has been down way too long)
~Steveo

#4110 28 days ago

Does anybody know where to get the proper insulated fenale connectors that connect to microswitches and what size they are? I ordered some I thought were the right ones but were twice as big as the ones I need.

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#4111 28 days ago

Just finished working on my game and thought I'd share a few pics, a lot was done.

Cleaned and flame polished the ramps, new rubber, cleaned subway, new coil sleeves, warm white LEDs everywhere, mirror blades, color dmd, new front and head decals, rebuilt GI connector and header pins, painted the coin door gloss black, perfect play flipper rubber, external sub hookup, and overall cleaning and vacuuming. Game came out really well and plays perfectly...knock on wood.

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#4112 28 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Just finished working on my game and thought I'd share a few pics, a lot was done.
Cleaned and flame polished the ramps, new rubber, cleaned subway, new coil sleeves, warm white LEDs everywhere, mirror blades, color dmd, new front and head decals, rebuilt GI connector and header pins, painted the coin door gloss black, perfect play flipper rubber, external sub hookup, and overall cleaning and vacuuming. Game came out really well and plays perfectly...knock on wood.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are you going to leave the clear plastic topper dome off of the top? I had mine off for a while and thought it looked good without.

#4113 28 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Are you going to leave the clear plastic topper dome off of the top?

Looks like he may have done that bcuz of needed clearance of the ceiling.

#4114 28 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Are you going to leave the clear plastic topper dome off of the top? I had mine off for a while and thought it looked good without.

Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Looks like he may have done that bcuz of needed clearance of the ceiling.

Well, I’m embarrassed to admit this, but I put 555s in there to replace the existing incandescents. Those who know the game, unlike me apparently, will know what happened next. Yep, melted leds. Luckily, no damage. I’m just waiting for 194 bulbs, incandescent!

#4115 28 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Well, I’m embarrassed to admit this, but I put 555s in there to replace the existing incandescents. Those who know the game, unlike me apparently, will know what happened next. Yep, melted leds. Luckily, no damage. I’m just waiting for 194 bulbs, incandescent!

Common mistake...just say'in.

#4116 28 days ago

looks great ..................except, I don't get the red led's on the mountains?

#4117 27 days ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

looks great ..................except, I don't get the red led's on the mountains?

Was kind of drab back there, I like the look. It’s lit from underneath the mountains.

#4118 27 days ago

Just put white ones under the mountains.
red looks silly

#4119 27 days ago

I think Yellow/Amber led strip under back mountains gives a more natural look.

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#4120 27 days ago
Quoted from freegame450:

I think Yellow/Amber led strip under back mountains gives a more natural look.[quoted image]

I have yellow/Amber in 12v, may give that a try.

#4121 27 days ago

Anyone need some pinblades? Had a spare set, I have some on my WH20 fits the theme perfect

Archived after 1 day
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Sold (amount undisclosed)
Mod - For Sale
New “Had a spare set brand new 79.00 new.”
2019-06-18
Walnut Creek, CA
48 (OBO)

#4122 27 days ago

Is there any particular reason why my coindoor interface board has no header pins at J5? I tested 12vpower and ground and both register. If there's no reason it's missing, I'll solder in a header and use the 12v for a mod.

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#4123 26 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Is there any particular reason why my coindoor interface board has no header pins at J5? I tested 12vpower and ground and both register. If there's no reason it's missing, I'll solder in a header and use the 12v for a mod.

I have a few who have the header and some who don't.
You can solder a header in to use it, (done that myself )

#4124 26 days ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

I have a few who have the header and some who don't.
You can solder a header in to use it, (done that myself )

Just a question pertaining to this issue that I was wondering about. Soldering in a header pin where the factory didn't add one and then using that as a power lead would that cause a higher draw and potentially lead to fuses being blown on that particular circuit? Or is it already rated for that additional draw but Williams just didn't feel the need to add that other header pin during production run?

#4125 26 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Just a question pertaining to this issue that I was wondering about. Soldering in a header pin where the factory didn't add one and then using that as a power lead would that cause a higher draw and potentially lead to fuses being blown on that particular circuit? Or is it already rated for that additional draw but Williams just didn't feel the need to add that other header pin during production run?

Everything you add to a circuit will draw more, thats why people with many electronic mods add an external powersupply.
When that header is not needed in a specific game, it will reduce costs.
Adding a LED-strip or something similar will not cause any problems (YMMV)

#4126 21 days ago

I've recently played this game for the first time and had a lot of fun with it, thus now thinking of buying one.

Could you help me and list a "top 3 or so" things to look out for when buying one?

I know the topper is hard to find separately but what else to think of? I know the ramps are expensive (and many). What about mechanical problems, any common problems there? Any unobtainable part that is crucial to its function?

Any help is appreciated.

#4127 21 days ago

I haven’t had my game long, but coindoor interface board is nla. Ramps are available, I think most stuff is available. Others can chime in who are more familiar with the game. Go on Ks arcade or Marco to see what parts are available, eBay too.

#4128 21 days ago

Cracked / broken mountains are a problem. They have been out of stock for quite a while. Reproductions are supposedly going to be available "in about two months", but they've been saying that for several years now.

#4129 21 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Cracked / broken mountains are a problem. They have been out of stock for quite a while. Reproductions are supposedly going to be available "in about two months", but they've been saying that for several years now.

Down to "1 or 2 more weeks" for the past 4 or 5 months.... so that's something!

#4130 20 days ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Down to "1 or 2 more weeks" for the past 4 or 5 months.... so that's something!

They must be getting closer because they were $119 a set and now Larry has jacked the price up to $192 still states out of stock though!

#4131 20 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

They must be getting closer because they were $119 a set and now Larry has jacked the price up to $192 still states out of stock though!

I noticed that as well, took effect here in the last week or so.

#4132 20 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I noticed that as well, took effect here in the last week or so.

Inflation i guess? Nothing like a 70% price increase for some nice plastic pieces.

#4133 14 days ago

My WH2O has started acting up. Running LH-6 ROM. Turn machine on and it begins normal start up testing, Bigfoot head spins continuously and machine does not boot up. Can not get into game menu to run any switch tests.

Have already re-seated ribbon cables and ROM chip. Appreciate suggestions from fellow owners.

#4134 13 days ago
Quoted from freegame450:

My WH2O has started acting up. Running LH-6 ROM. Turn machine on and it begins normal start up testing, Bigfoot head spins continuously and machine does not boot up. Can not get into game menu to run any switch tests.
Have already re-seated ribbon cables and ROM chip. Appreciate suggestions from fellow owners.

If you still have batteries on your mpu have you changed them out?

#4135 13 days ago

Yes, still running with batteries that I replace every 2-3 years. Have never had any loss of machine memory in over 10 years. Current batteries 1 year old, reading 1.46 volts each. Put new batteries in just to see if makes any difference. Still no boot up. LEDs on cpu show normal D19 is off, D20 blinks, D21 stays on. Sound board gives normal 1 Beep.
No cycling of feature lamps. I unplugged lamp matrix J137 connector on the driver board and now CPU will boot up and I can access game menus. Bigfoot motor and Optos working correct.
So now I just need to figure out if the problem is on the Driver board or the CPU board.
Anyone have ideas ?

#4136 13 days ago
Quoted from freegame450:

Yes, still running with batteries that I replace every 2-3 years. Have never had any loss of machine memory in over 10 years. Current batteries 1 year old, reading 1.46 volts each. Put new batteries in just to see if makes any difference. Still no boot up. LEDs on cpu show normal D19 is off, D20 blinks, D21 stays on. Sound board gives normal 1 Beep.
No cycling of feature lamps. I unplugged lamp matrix J137 connector on the driver board and now CPU will boot up and I can access game menus. Bigfoot motor and Optos working correct.
So now I just need to figure out if the problem is on the Driver board or the CPU board.
Anyone have ideas ?

Your initial post said your machine started acting up what was it doing when it was acting up? And do we assume that even though it was acting up it was booting and playing and then all of a sudden it just started to not boot?

#4137 13 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Your initial post said your machine started acting up what was it doing when it was acting up? And do we assume that even though it was acting up it was booting and playing and then all of a sudden it just started to not boot?

Yeah, I was not clear about the situation. Game had not been played for roughly 2 weeks. Would not boot up when turned on 2 days ago. I have owned this pin for over 15 years, and other than 1 or 2 switch errors years ago it has always been reliable. It has always started up just fine until now.

#4138 12 days ago

Just installed the latest home rom, which has the ball saver in it. Game boots into german, thought I was going to have to mess with resistors on the cpu to get it back to English, but just changing the language setting in the adjustment menu fixed it. Took me a while to find the setting as I don’t speak or read German,

Thanks to astill entertainment for the ROM, great service out of our northern neighbor.

#4139 6 days ago

Two great pins and two great towns in Kansas!

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#4140 6 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Two great pins and two great towns in Kansas![quoted image]

What a great sighting.

#4141 6 days ago

I am possibly joining this club on Thursday. I did a trade with cash for my walking dead. The photos looked great so I’m hoping for the best!!

#4142 6 days ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

I am possibly joining this club on Thursday. I did a trade with cash for my walking dead. The photos looked great so I’m hoping for the best!!

Sweet! Hop on in theres room on the raft now grab a paddle

#4143 6 days ago

I'm on the way in as well... due to the long distance ,holidays and schedule conflicts its been a long road.
However soon enough it will arrive to its new home.

#4144 6 days ago

I just hope the game looks as good as the photos in person!!

#4145 6 days ago

I'm in need of the orbit ball guide before I can start restoring this serious project. Anyone have a lead on this part?

#4146 5 days ago

Full fledged member this week.

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#4147 5 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Full fledged member this week. [quoted image]

fun game, and that one still got good color on the cabinet.

#4148 4 days ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Full fledged member this week.

Welcome! Great choice

I see LED on the chaselight topper, GE194 14volt 0.27amp 10mm wedgelamp are the ones great for the waterfall effect

#4149 4 days ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Welcome! Great choice
I see LED on the chaselight topper, GE194 14volt 0.27amp 10mm wedgelamp are the ones great for the waterfall effect

Yeah, will go back to incandescent on the topper.

#4150 4 days ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Welcome! Great choice
I see LED on the chaselight topper, GE194 14volt 0.27amp 10mm wedgelamp are the ones great for the waterfall effect

ugh, and they are blue

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There are 4153 posts in this topic. You are on page 83 of 84.

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