Which means just in time for Pinfest.

Thanks! I figured I would email Larry@starship, he responded just now 6 - 8 weeks. I'm just glad he is making more, I wont be tearing this thing down for a rebuild for at least a few months or so. Just going to enjoy it as is for now.

I do it every 3 months since February, 2018 (I guess I am not the only one). Answer is always the same: 2-3 months.
I hope they will make it this year.

I hear ya, funny thing is first time I talked to Larry 2-3 years ago at TPF, I remember seeing the rocks and chuckling in my head thinking who would by fake ass plastic rocks. I would I guess after playing WH2O.

Oh that's a good one. It's always "2-3 months", years later.

I have a beautiful AC/DC modded to the hilt if someone is looking for a white water trade? Mixing it up...

Ha old Larry sticks to his story no matter what show or email. Its always 6 weeks man he has been telling me that shit for well over a year so I wouldn't get to excited about it.

Anyone know if the sticker is available that covers the wear on the playfield near the mine kick out?

Here ya go

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/decals/decals-playfield-ramp/white-water-lost-mine-kick-out-overlay/

Awesome, thanks!

Looking for some feedback/advice on WhiteWater issue. One of the cables under my machine came disconnected. A molex cable. I'm still new to having to fix my machines on my own. I ordered what I thought was the right Molex part, bought the Set of 2 - 4 Pin Molex Male Plug with Pins .093 from GameRoom Guys. Ended up the part was a lot bigger than the original so wouldn't fit the female end. Anyone have any idea what Molex plug I need? And the best place to find one? Just spent the last 3 hours trying to find what the plug is I need with no luck :/ But it's part of the cable that hooks to the sensor of WhiteWater for the ball exit from the Whirlpool. The two photos I have so the busted cable, and shows the new Molex plug I bought next to the original one, as you can see it's to big.

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None listed with the usual sources of marco and pinballife. If link doesn't work just search 4 pin molex on ebay.
ebay.com link: 4 Pin Molex Connector lot 1 Matched Sets w 18 24 AWG 062 Free Hanging Plug

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=35

One word or two?

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Here is a statistical comparison of rubber ring in the boulders (from the factory), versus no rubber ring in Boulder. Approx 6 months of play on each.

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Well I would say that is pretty damn definitive!

I may have some in my parts bin. Let me check.

I was going thru switch testing over the weekend and came across the coin door switch. It tested as working, but then I started wondering, what is its purpose? There is no chime or sound made when the door is opened, and the flashers and coils still work. Do I have an issue, or is this how it was intended?
Thanks!

Mine does the exact same thing so i guess thats the way it was intended. Otherwise my machine has an issue as well.

Ok so just thought I would post this in case anyone is having anything weird like this happen. I replaced the rollover switch at entry to boulder garden as it was failing and only registering intermittently. Almost immediately I started having issues again with failure to register. I popped the playfield up to examine it and found the 3 legs smashed over. Thinking maybe I let the playfield down in some strange way and caused this so I swapped it out with another new switch. Nxt thing I know the VUK starts firing upon startup and I cant figure out wtf is going on. So again I lift the playfield and again notice the damn legs on the switch are all smashed and bent over grounding each other out. Now i set the playfield down on the support bars and pear in through the coin door and quickly determine the problem. Turns out the 1 of the lock lugs that catch the playfield as you are pulling it out had unscrewed itself and was only hanging on by a thread. Since it was sticking out about 3/4 of an inch it was making contact with the switch and essentially crushing it when the playfield slid in or out. The lug has a slot in it to tighten which I did and hallelujah problem solved. Just a very strange problem I thought I would share just in case anyone was having these symptoms.

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Thanks for the reply. Good to know that I'm not the only one. If someone chimes in and says its supposed to work differently, at least we'll get to tackle the problem together!

Funny I was thinking the very same thing

I forgot to mention in my above post about another symptom of that switch grounding out. If it is grounding itself out when you shoot a ball into No Way Out ball 3 locked will display on the dmd.

I just checked, I have 3 pin connectors. Exactly how many conductors are there?

Added lots of mods, powder coated, sideblade, color screen, and many mods. Perfect playfield and 3D translite Lets go rafting.

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That's fucking hideous

Well dont hold back, tell us how you really feel about it!

If I didn't hold back it would have surely been deleted.

Any recommendations for an LED kit? Cointaker, vs. Marco vs. others? Also, recommendations for lighting up the rear boulder area?

Thanks

I'm curious as well. I'm assembling the parts needed to do a full restore and I feel lighting is definitely something I need to address. I was thinking of putting RGB LED strips (both pointing up and down) under all boulders and then just play around with programming them to see what looks good.

As for LED kits, my .02, I'm just not into them. After doing several LED conversions I have my own preferences now on color matching, warmth, etc etc. But it's always nice to know how many you need of each type of bulb, etc etc. I will say this, vendor wise, Comet's are my preference.

this is super easy, other than white, it will all look like shit.

Guys, question about the upper flipper alignment. Do you have the flipper resting flat against the metal lane? Or do you use the small hole on the upper pf to align the flipper?

I currently have the flipper aligned to the hole/roll pin which has the bat slightly above the ballguide. But it definitely makes the jackpot shot harder.

Wonder if there is a standard to this

Bought this from a guy that owned it the last 22 years, few minor repairs like matrix switch chip, gi connector bb lights out as in pic.
Took the boulder rubber out and prefer it. Just need to clean, re rubber and led carefully. Don’t want a Xmas tree look.

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Comet 2SMD Sunlight frosted are pretty amazing bulbs for the GI

LEDs in the inserts turn out okay but even then I would only go there with the LEDOCD board. The sequencing of the lights is not right without it. I did lots of experimentation to find color combinations I'm happy with. It all depends on the insert. For GI I think you're asking for trouble using LEDs (unless you get a GI OCD board). LOTS of fading going on with this game which will be totally destroyed if you put LEDs in the GI or backbox without proper control of the LED fading. With the GI, you need to be subtle. A lot of people kill the game with too much blue. I actually put some aqua incandescents in some upper playfield spots on mine and that works but LEDs were way too strong. Much safer to stick with a sunlight if you go LED and ONLY (ONLY!) if you have GI LED board.

White Water and BSD are two games I highly recommend keeping the GI incandescent. They're the two games that use the GI dimming feature really extensively. Definitely more than other WPC games I've played. If you MUST use LEDs, definitely go with the GIOCD board.

These two belong together!

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Are you still pleased with that pinballsp color dmd? Have you messed with the coloring software at all yet or just playing it as is?

along with FT

RE: LED strips under bounders -> I was thinking some variation of white (not sure on color temp) facing up, with possible some colors facing down (in the areas where there are openings, ramps, "cave" etc)

It's just too dark to me. Next to my TSPP which is bright and colorful I just dont like it. When I play with the lights down or off, too hard to see, etc.

This game is a keeper for me, so I have no issue forking out the $$$ for both OCD boards.

Got my mirco order in the other day. It got held up in customs, what a PITA (I had to contact fedex and give them a better explanation of what the contents were).

PF is gorgeous. Gave it a thorough look over for any issues and I can't find anything to gripe about so far (only one small minor "low spot" in the clear on the upper PF where the ball wont hit).

Rad cals look awesome, looking forward to giving that a try.

Now to assemble the rest of the parts needed. blarg.

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Yes, very pleased with the PinballSP. Focusing on mechanical upgrades before coloring, I did play around in it but, have other projects to sink my time into (Atari Star Wars Cockpit) at the moment.

So you might look at the translucent Orange bumper baskets, I got some from Comet pinball vía user Zitt, will be installing mine soon.

You might try experimenting with spots tied into the GI. That's what I did. I've got two attached to the apron to light the flipper areas and a partially modified one that is hidden under Bigfoot's cave shining towards the "lost mountain" mod. All of these are tied into the GI so they dim, etc. in sync with the other GI lighting.

I also have the bigfoot spotlight mod which lights him up when he turns.

With that and the normal GI I've been good. If you LED the GI without an GI OCD board you will kill all of the dimming, etc. designed into the game's light show, and that is a huge part of the lighting for this game.

Looks like Mirco fixed the coloring issues with the brim of Wet Willies hat etc.!

and the missing white on the lock inserts