I have dome LEDs in there that turn blue when when lit. They look good but your approach sounds even better.

I used blue incandescent bulbs and they work well there. I know there are a lot of people that like the red but it never felt right to me so I changed it.

Word of advice though, when you remove the light board take note of the plastic spacer keeping the long woodscrew at bay. I've seen quite a few Whitewaters where someone has lost or forgotten that spacer and consequently screwed the woodscrew up through the top of the playfield! Be careful not to do that.

Thanks for the advice. Its a small detail that could be forgotten and ruin a playfield. Much appreciated.

Anyone have a lost mountain mod they want to sell?

That bare hole looks bad and now that I have lit my mountains in the back from underneath that whole area is lit as well and you see blank space and wires.

Something to consider, light it from above, orange slightly dim, looks great. (no problem with lit wires)
Good luck searching a lost mountain

I’m sure you saw this but just in case not ...

the lost mountain mod is in the pinside marketplace

Yes I have seen it but the shape is different than the one produced before, which I prefer.

The original is nice, the face one is stupid

Need a little tech help from my Whitewater brothers.....the topper lights stopped working. What are steps to troubleshoot? Game is completely stock lighting, etc. thank you in advance!

Hi Pinside oracles

I have a Whitewater project machine in need of a some restoration on the way to my home. I am still a rookie, though I am getting a hang of some minor repairs. Getting a project machine is a good way to learn for me. I have some specific questions related to the playfield.

The playfield is intact but need a cleanup, preparation and a new clearcote. My specific question here is about the inserts, which are quite worn (see pics attached). I found new decals from different suppliers but I have a doubt if they are sufficient and/or matching - any experience with that?! On Big Foot Hoot Foot, it seems the new decals miss the coloured parts. And the same goes for Disaster Drop insert, which is not included at all (it seems). Also I wanna ask forum if you have any experience with colourmatch on Wet Willies decal (and the others)?

Good general advice is always welcome

A lot of questions. I hope I can find answers in this helpful forum. Thanks

Thomas

Inser damage #2 (resized).jpg

Insert damage (resized).jpg

Insert decals (resized).jpg

Sanity check pls: Would a repro topper decal devalue an otherwise pristine collector quality WH20?

a good working topper is big $$$$ to this game.

Yes definitely

You do have the correct 194 bulbs in the light boards right? If you plug in 555's which do fit it will blow the fuse.

Yes. Correct bulbs. It’s been working perfect for months. Where is the fuse for the topper lights? I’ll check that first.

I bought a fully restored White Water pinball machine. From the moment I got the machine every time the ball goes to the kickback, the kickback goes off, and then locked into place against the blue play field apron, fully extended. The kickback then is stuck. If another ball hits it down the land the ball gets stuck. I have to then take off the glass and push hard against the play field apron pushing it to the right, and then the kickback falls back into place. Once I do another game, anywhere from 1 to 5 more times of the kickback going off, it gets stuck and I have to do the entire process again.
Any ideas on how I can prevent this problem? Shaving off part of the play field where the kickback gets stuck? Anyone else have this issue? I have a photo with an arrow pointing to the kickback when it gets stuck. Any advice would be great as I've yet to be able to finish a game since owning it without the kickback getting stuck.

Screen Shot 2019-04-13 at 8.50.04 PM (resized).png

Remove apron. Loosen screws holding coil fixture. Re-align fixture so plunger does not get caught on apron (rotate or slide to the left from player's perspective. Tighten screws. Re-install apron. Play WH2O.

I’d suggest removing the apron and adjusting the position of the kickback bracket. I’d also recommend against filing down the apron, it’d likely cause the ball to get stuck there when the kickback isn’t lit.

I just did exactly as you said and it fixed the problem! Had this machine for 10 months and the guy I bought it from never responded on how to fix this issue so I never was able to play a full game until just now! So stoked. Thank you all for taking the time to respond!

I just did exactly as you said and it fixed the problem! Had this machine for 10 months and the guy I bought it from never responded on how to fix this issue so I never was able to play a full game until just now! So stoked. Thank you all for taking the time to respond!

If memory serves me its f114 but I could be wrong if so someone else will correct me.

Awesome good news, go catch up and play more.
Welcome to pinside, you should have posted 9 1/2 months ago. Lol

Breaking news ... Bigfoot is real

image (resized).jpeg

WTF

Holy shit!! Somebody needs to start a gofundme account to raise money for this guy to have a laser hair removal treatment.

Killing time on the runway, late last night while playing I noticed my slings and pops are not working. Everything else seems to be working 100%. I didn’t have time to check anything, but my initial thought is that a fuse must have blown. I just reviewed the fuse section in the manual but didn’t see a specific fuse pointing to the slings and pops.

Does anyone know off hand if one specific fuse is controlling this and if so which one?

I reckon he carries a fire extinguisher round with him. If he sees spark, he’s going up like a rocket!!

The slings and pops are solenoids 10-14 and connect at J-127. Not sure which fuse it is, but I'd say you have one blown.

Thanks! I’ll be home Wednesday night and will check this out.

i just bought all the twisted pins water fall holograms decals and the white mounting plastics from the going to prison sale. many boxes full.
tainted by the TP name but hoping to salvage this stuff and get them to people who need them. got a lot other stuff too, truckloads.

Did I miss something?

Yes you did. It was the Twisted Pins going out of business sale Everything Must Go.

I kinda glad I didnt know about this fire sale at twisted!

Hell who even knew that they had any thing left to sell off

Super stoked to finally be in this club. When I wasnt in the market for a new pin I was seeing WH20 ads left and right.. then of course, as soon as I am ready to buy.. crickets. Ended up grabbing this great players condition machine only an hour away at a really good price. I'm planning to enjoy it for a while and then possibly do a full restore.

20190419_211523 (resized).jpg

Awesome arcadenerd925 !

Hit my first 5-way combo and third Vacation Jackpot this past week! Yeee-haaaaa!!!!

So I checked all the fuses, no issues. Reseated the cable for J127 and no change. Confirmed that none of those solenoids fire in test mode.

Thoughts on what to look at next?

Did you pull the fuse and check with a meter?

Yes, pulled all of them. I learned that lesson about a year ago

Bad trace under a leaky cap? That just happened to me on my TAF.

Above my skill set!

hmmm, prison bound huh?

Did you get your chase lights back working?

Hey, Willy fans...... does anyone sell the speaker grills with the red logo?

if anyone happens to have a spare set of boulders (NOS or Repro full set) they are looking to part with, PM me. thnx

White Water Whirlpool eject problems. My White Water that I had restored has had several big issues from the start. You all helped with the first big issue, but the second big issue I haven't seemed to figure out, if anyone has any advice on that, that would be awesome.

Two issues I have are both with the ball once it goes into the Whirlpool, it gets stuck near the very end, right before it gets to where it gets fired out. It gets stuck 90 percent of the time. I have photos of where it gets stuck. The other issue is with the game knowing when to eject the ball from the whirlpool exit. The moment I turn on the game it starts firing at the exit of the whirlpool. I have a video of exactly what happens when I power on the game.

I did a couple test on the switches as well, here's what it said, guessing that's one of the issues.
Whirlpool Popper 61 (A) - OPEN
Whirlpool Exit 62 - CLOSED
Whirlpool Right 63 - CLOSED

Any advice on how to prevent the ball from getting stuck down the chute from the whirlpool?
Any advice onto how to fix the exit from constantly firing when it shouldn't?

Here's a link to the whirlpool eject and what it does the moment I turn on the machine and the moment I start a new game. Thinks there's a ball there when there is not.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tppip52jjjun7dc/IMG_4059.MOV?dl=0

Screen Shot 2019-04-22 at 2.27.17 AM (resized).png

I'm going to guess that you have repro ramps on the game. they are too thick. it can trap teh ball there in the subway. you'll need to shift it or cut back come of the plastic.

You may have dirty or failing optos in the Lost Mine (or possibly elsewhere). These matrix issues can be confusing and (in my REALLY limited) experience you have to methodically track them down. Here's my thread on a similar, or maybe even the same issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/phantom-switch-opto-issue-wpc-white-water

The ball getting stuck sounds more like a mechanical issue. If you really get in there and start looking at the issue you should be able to figure it out. I'm sometimes surprised at how easy it is for a pinball to get hung up. Anything out of alignment can cause an issue, debris, rough plastic, etc.