WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

5 years ago



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There are 3783 posts in this topic. You are on page 75 of 76.
#3701 15 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Found this on my doorstep today!
[quoted image]

Full unboxing pics please.

-1
#3702 15 days ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

Just wanted to show off my little hotglue waterfall I made.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

looks like a nice glob of hot glue, if that's the look you was going for?

#3703 15 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Full unboxing pics please.

What do you want to know?

#3704 15 days ago

I am having a problem with my bigfoot.
When shooting the whirlpool shot the bigfoot head spins a full 360 after a small delay, instead of looking back at me and rotate back. What could cause this?

#3705 15 days ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

I am having a problem with my bigfoot.
When shooting the whirlpool shot the bigfoot head spins a full 360 after a small delay, instead of looking back at me and rotate back. What could cause this?

Possibly a bad opto. Otherwise, the disk below the Bigfoot that alternately blocks/allows the optos to be read could have a piece broken off of it.

Try the diagnostic tests: Bigfoot head position - this would be the most useful. It should read UP, Diverter, Player when stopped in each of those respective positions.
Also try the Bigfoot Opto test.

#3706 14 days ago
Quoted from zene10:

Possibly a bad opto. Otherwise, the disk below the Bigfoot that alternately blocks/allows the optos to be read could have a piece broken off of it.
Try the diagnostic tests: Bigfoot head position - this would be the most useful. It should read UP, Diverter, Player when stopped in each of those respective positions.
Also try the Bigfoot Opto test.

Thanks, I will give it a try.

#3707 14 days ago

I need the home rom anyone know who/where to get one cheers!

#3708 14 days ago

Joined the club today!

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#3709 14 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I need the home rom anyone know who/where to get one cheers!

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1500/white-water-home-rom-lh6.htm

or just do a search for whitewater LH-6

#3710 14 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Joined the club today!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats! It's a club that i don't see myself ever leaving.

#3711 13 days ago

Got the Bigfoot mod in!! Was not too bad of an install great instructions zene10

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#3712 13 days ago

Soulrider911... You do nice work!

#3713 13 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Got the Bigfoot mod in!! Was not too bad of an install great instructions zene10 [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful job!

You only installed 1 habitrail clip on Bigfoot’s cave spot without the full bracket.

That will most likely hold without a problem, but you may notice it rotate downwards over time.

Or, I could’ve just overthought and over engineered the spotlight bracket. Old engineering habit.

Can’t wait for the final reveal when completed!

#3714 13 days ago

zene10 ya once that clamp is cinched down it’s pretty solid! Hey better over engineered than under!

#3715 13 days ago

Guys, finally making the jump from incandescents in the GI to LED's. I have the GI OCD board on order and it will arrive next week. My question to you all -

Cool White, Warm White, or Sunlight?

I was thinking warm since the warmer tone will look nice under the boulders. But then I also thought cool may do better with the blues in the playfield art. Wondering if anyone has strong opinions.

#3716 13 days ago

I use sunlight 2smd in pretty much all my games now except Diner which I think screams warm lights.

Can't go wrong with Sunlight.

#3717 13 days ago
Quoted from Elicash:

-
Cool White, Warm White, or Sunlight?
I was thinking warm since the warmer tone will look nice under the boulders. But then I also thought cool may do better with the blues in the playfield art. Wondering if anyone has strong opinions.

I’ve been kicking this same question around. Mine is full original bulbs and agree the warm tone really is good for the game. I’m a big fan of the 2smd sunlight bulbs installed in my Whirlwind. I’ve played other white waters with cool white and sunlight. For some reason, I feel like the warm incandescnets look better. I’ve been leaning on warm white LEDs, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.

Are you getting the LED boards for the inserts too?

#3718 13 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I’ve been kicking this same question around. Mine is full original bulbs and agree the warm tone really is good for the game. I’m a big fan of the 2smd sunlight bulbs installed in my Whirlwind. I’ve played other white waters with cool white and sunlight. For some reason, I feel like the warm incandescnets look better. I’ve been leaning on warm white LEDs, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
Are you getting the LED boards for the inserts too?

Curious about whirlwind. I have sunlight in White Water but was thinking about cool white (aka natural white) in Whirlwind. Lightening reminds me of a pure white or blue tint. Did you try anything other incandescents on WW?

#3719 13 days ago
Quoted from zene10:

Curious about whirlwind. I have sunlight in White Water but was thinking about cool white (aka natural white) in Whirlwind. Lightening reminds me of a pure white or blue tint. Did you try anything other incandescents on WW?

PM sent

#3720 13 days ago

I think warm is the way to go. Plenty of white and light blue in the art, no need to bleach it. Warm at least works best under the rocks. One issue I’ve run into is that the yellow river inserts, even with warm leds, look too light, almost greenish. Sickly. Not gold enough. Anyone have a trick color or idea for warming up yellow inserts. I need ULTRA WARM. Or something.

#3721 13 days ago

I went warm 2smd frosted all around on mine, keeps the warm nostalgia IMO

#3722 13 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I went warm 2smd frosted all around on mine, keeps the warm nostalgia IMO

Any pics, by chance?

#3723 13 days ago

Soon as I get the machine wired up I’ll take tons yes ,,, backbox still isn’t on yet and the playfield is not in either maybe this week

#3724 13 days ago

2SMD cools. I think warm whites look great too. With the blue, like whirlwind I preferred cool white. If I had sunlights in hand, I’m sure I’d gone with them.

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#3725 12 days ago

While we're talking about lighting, here's my translite setup with:
• OCDGI, dims translite once start is pressed except for 2 x white LED strips
• Mix of 2SMD Comet warm white and sunlight (+2 x cool white at the very bottom between the strips)
• 3 strip of orange (top right)
• 2 x 20 strip of natural white that stay lit when the rest of the translite lighting is dimmed

I'm hoping I win at the rainbow puke club.
IMG_4868 (resized).JPGIMG_4870 (resized).JPGIMG_4869 (resized).JPGIMG_4871 (resized).JPG

#3726 12 days ago

zene10 I actually never thought to use led strips in the backbox, very creative.
I actually think it looks nice... you didn’t go crazy with all Sorts of color so it doesn’t look overstated I’m liking it nice job

#3727 12 days ago
Quoted from zene10:

While we're talking about lighting, here's my translite setup with:
• OCDGI, dims translite once start is pressed except for 2 x white LED strips
• Mix of 2SMD Comet warm white and sunlight
• 3 strip of orange (top right)
• 2 x 20 strip of natural white that stay lit when the rest of the translite lighting is dimmed
I'm hoping I win at the rainbow puke club.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Now if you can tie in some lights to turn on behind the big foot in the backglass when your spot light/hot foot mod triggers, that would be cool!

#3728 12 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Now if you can tie in some lights to turn on behind the big foot in the backglass when your spot light/hot foot mod triggers, that would be cool!

I agree, thanks for the suggestions.

My ambitions were a lot larger for the Sasquatch Signal when I started. In addition to the end result, I prototyped and tested:
• Flickering fire type lighting inside Bigfoot's Cave when in the Hot Foot mode
• Backglass integration
• Whirlpool ramp integration
• Custom spotlight addressable lighting (the spotlight shines different colors depending on game play)

All these things are possible but sacrifices had to be made for sanity, a realistic price point, and time to assemble kits. Otherwise scope-creep would have resulted in this never getting out.

If you're interested in ramp lighting integration, I'd point you to the Pinduino kit from lyonsden

As it is now, the time it takes to build the wiring harnesses alone puts each kit in the "do you want fries with that?" pay range or less. Development through realization of the kit was all about love of the hobby and a challenge to myself.

If a person is ambitious enough, they could tap a 12V lighting strip (cut to size) into the existing 12V line to illuminate Bigfoot in the translite when the spot comes on. The hotfoot mode would require some additional programming (the fire mode is addressable LED strips) and tying into the end of the addressable lighting chain. Alternatively, a board redesign could accommodate parallel addressable strips.

Maybe in the future I'll revisit once I've sold my current stock.

Paddle Hard and Keep Calm!

#3729 12 days ago
Quoted from zene10:

While we're talking about lighting, here's my translite setup with:
• OCDGI, dims translite once start is pressed except for 2 x white LED strips
• Mix of 2SMD Comet warm white and sunlight
• 3 strip of orange (top right)
• 2 x 20 strip of natural white that stay lit when the rest of the translite lighting is dimmed
I'm hoping I win at the rainbow puke club.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s really nice! Thanks for the ideas!

#3730 12 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

One issue I’ve run into is that the yellow river inserts, even with warm leds, look too light, almost greenish. Sickly. Not gold enough. Anyone have a trick color or idea for warming up yellow inserts. I need ULTRA WARM. Or something.

I went with Cointaker 555 Super in Warm White. They look like a nice bright yellow instead of orange or green. What I found was that I got lots of variation between different types and brands. I probably tried 5 or 5 different bulbs on those inserts and settled on the Cointaker Warm White. This being said, they are much more yellow with the Warm Whites than with the incandescent, which come off as more of an yellow-orange. If you're looking to mimic the original incandescent then you might try something different (maybe pink?)

#3731 12 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

I think warm is the way to go. Plenty of white and light blue in the art, no need to bleach it. Warm at least works best under the rocks. One issue I’ve run into is that the yellow river inserts, even with warm leds, look too light, almost greenish. Sickly. Not gold enough. Anyone have a trick color or idea for warming up yellow inserts. I need ULTRA WARM. Or something.

Try pink. Not kidding.

#3732 12 days ago

Interesting! and makes sense:

main-qimg-75fdfe09ff27f11cc736ef0fcf0e6176 (resized).jpg
#3733 8 days ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Search this tread because i have some pretty detailed posts about this issue. I've done hours of work on this and I'll give you the cliff notes of my findings.
First, I've manged to set up my game so that rubber washers are not needed to prevent the ball spin. The first thing to do is make sure that the metal VUK guide is correctly set. There is a hole in the metal ball-guide apparatus (on the lower playfield) where a "leg" on the metal VUK guide/cage needs to be inserted. Also, I've found that some washers (I think on the side closest to the translite) angle the VUK guide enough to prevent the spin. I'm pretty sure I have a post in here that gives some more detail. All of the VUK guides are probably a little different so it may just be that mine is bent right, but regardless, I've got mine set now so there's no need to fool with washers.
Second, make sure your game is leveled correctly. You need to level White Water with the upper playfield OFF, with a level near the back of the lower playfield (you need to check the front too but that's easy to get to).
Third, after LOTs of testing, I found that it was ultimately my plastic ramp edge causing the hangups. I observed the exact same thing you did, and it looked like the ball was getting hung up on the side, where the plastic ramp meets the metal vertical ball guide. I spent hours trying to adjust the ramp setting (washers on one or the other side, using tape to angle the sides in, etc.) but no amount of adjusting fixed the hangup. How I ultimately figured out it was the ramp lip was that I removed the plastic ramp from the game entirely and put a pinball on it by hand: I found that the ball just liked to hang up right on the edge of the lip (almost like when you overfill a glass of water and the water creates a "bubble" above the top of a glass rather than trickling over the edge.) So ... I got out some sandpaper and sanded down that sharp plastic lip until the ball tended to slip off the end of the ramp rather than getting hung up. Then I used finer sandpaper to smooth out my work and then did the old Novus 3, 2, 1 treatment to smooth everything out. When working the ramp I would do my best to try to find a way to MAKE the ball get hung up on the end of the ramp and then work the area more so that I could no longer effectively do it. By the time I was done it was still possible for me to get the ball to hang, but it was WAY more difficult than how I started out. I figured that once I added the natural tilt of the game to the equation the ball would no longer hang. Lastly, when I reinstalled the ramp I thoroughly tested the area as I was setting the ramp (BEFORE YOU TOTALLY REASSEMBLE and while you still have good access to that area). I would use my hand to place the pinball in that area and try to get it stuck, then adjust if needed. Challenge yourself to try to get the ball to hang and if it becomes very difficult or impossible for you to get the ball to hang then you know you've done your job.
I honestly have not had a problem since. It's been over a year since I did this and I've only had a handful of times (less than 5) when the ball has hung back there. Even then, a small nudge would get the ball to move. I can't remember when the last hangup occurred, it's been over 6 months.
Of course all of this requires significant disassembly, which you should be doing periodically to clean the game anyway. I tend to do a full breakdown and cleaning about once every 2 years. When I reassemble I pay very close attention to that area and make sure I roll test with a pinball before full reassembly to make sure that area is squared away. I struggled with this for YEARS and it was ultimately the sanding and smoothing of that ramp-lip that fixed the issue.

This was a big help jam_burglar seeing this before and searching for it. That lip you talk of is on mine too and cleaned it up. I did find that on top of that, I had two other issues which will hopefully help someone:
- The lower screw holding the ramp down would hold a slow ball. I've removed it so I can get a smaller head that recesses. Alternatively you could carefully drill the tapered part further. For now I'm running without the screw and it's working great until I get a smaller headed screw.
- Keeping the ball guide and ramp tight with no gap. I didn't have much, but it was enough. A slow ball would still sit there despite the ramp lip and screw. Now that all have been adjusted for, I didn't have any hang ups in 30 or more games.

#3734 7 days ago

Hey guys have a major problem. Just put the playfield in my new cabinet and the shooter is roughly 1/2” too low?!
C2173F14-000E-4867-A31A-5F910C1DE470 (resized).jpeg

First thought was the shooter was maybe mounted too low?
2AFFCE44-744D-4B10-95DA-3B7E5251E27E (resized).jpeg

Second was the wrong playfield hangers as I had to replace the old ones , I cross referenced with my creature assuming they use the same size.
23F84D62-4954-4D4B-B28B-04C50E982C94 (resized).jpeg

The playfield clearly looks to high at this end
8D60F71A-A190-4769-BA9E-EC8C0F5ED4CC (resized).jpeg

I’m totally lost love any help please

#3735 7 days ago

Think I may have answered my own question, it would appear whitewater uses longer hangers than creature. So maybe a simple fix
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9211

#3736 7 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Think I may have answered my own question, it would appear whitewater uses longer hangers than creature. So maybe a simple fix
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9211

Yes, longer hangers.

#3737 7 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey guys have a major problem. Just put the playfield in my new cabinet and the shooter is roughly 1/2” too low?!
[quoted image]
First thought was the shooter was maybe mounted too low?
[quoted image]
Second was the wrong playfield hangers as I had to replace the old ones , I cross referenced with my creature assuming they use the same size.
[quoted image]
The playfield clearly looks to high at this end
[quoted image]
I’m totally lost love any help please

As I remember, we need longer hangers:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/67#post-4649433

#3738 7 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Good deal that is a hard part to find I have a buddy trying to find that piece with no luck.

All good! Running with a PinballSP color dmd mk66 magic edition

0AC92E9F-8F26-4279-B130-53142B2C1A82 (resized).jpeg

#3739 7 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

All good! Running with a PinballSP color dmd mk66 magic edition

[quoted image]

Did you use his magic editor software and color the game or are you just using it with the basic 4 color mode?

#3740 7 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Interesting! and makes sense:
[quoted image]

Wow. Will try!

#3741 7 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Did you use his magic editor software and color the game or are you just using it with the basic 4 color mode?

So far with just the 4 colors, waiting for the editing software which would be cool!

#3742 6 days ago

Hey fellow rafters, i updated my rom a few years back to LH6 home rom.
I have been very happy with it. Sparky.

#3743 5 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

This was a big help jam_burglar seeing this before and searching for it. That lip you talk of is on mine too and cleaned it up. I did find that on top of that, I had two other issues which will hopefully help someone:
- The lower screw holding the ramp down would hold a slow ball. I've removed it so I can get a smaller head that recesses. Alternatively you could carefully drill the tapered part further. For now I'm running without the screw and it's working great until I get a smaller headed screw.
- Keeping the ball guide and ramp tight with no gap. I didn't have much, but it was enough. A slow ball would still sit there despite the ramp lip and screw. Now that all have been adjusted for, I didn't have any hang ups in 30 or more games.

Nice, it's well worth the effort! I've been running mine for years now and have maybe had two or three hangups ever, and even then they just roll right out if you nudge the table.

#3744 4 days ago

The last couple games I have noticed i would need a certain flasher to advance to the next raft. I havent had a chance to really troubleshoot to deeply on this. Somehow i'm hitting something else and it will then act as though I hit the target when in fact I didn't. Would this indicate a loose wire possibly shorting or bad diode or something else? Im getting no credit dots either so not sure switch test will indicate any problems. Any ideas where to start diagnosing this? Thx

#3745 4 days ago

Pretty sure I just found part of my problem here. Someone took out the original switch and mounting bracket and replaced it with an old ass rollover eos switch. You can see in the pic the eos is actually seperating. Now im going to have to track down this bracket and pickup the correct microswitch to change it back to original. Does anyone have an extra one of these brackets they could help me out with?

20190212_151227 (resized).jpg20190212_180549 (resized).jpg
#3746 4 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Pretty sure I just found part of my problem here. Someone took out the original switch and mounting bracket and replaced it with an old ass rollover eos switch. You can see in the pic the eos is actually seperating. Now im going to have to track down this bracket and pickup the correct microswitch to change it back to original. Does anyone have an extra one of these brackets they could help me out with?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have a bunch of those somewhere...

#3747 4 days ago

Pinball life

#3748 3 days ago

This is the only one im seeing but it doesnt look to be the same.

Screenshot_20190212-201430_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg
#3749 3 days ago

Dang I thought I got em there before..
Marco has a good variety
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8719

#3750 3 days ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Dang I thought I got em there before..
Marco has a good variety
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8719

Yep now that looks like the right one. Thks!

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