Could someone tell me whats the name and the nr on this opto switch under the playfield.

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Ok, whirl pool light people. I alternated white and blue frosted LEDs in mine.

Pics or it didn't happen

What ever happened to the Bigfoot spotlight mod? Pinball used to have it but I haven't seen it in a long time.

Is the left inlane supposed to have a plastic or not?

There's a custom missing plastic out there for the left inlane

Stock White Waters do not have a plastic there. It’s just metal.

I believe the guy who made them stopped producing them.

Finished up and put back together. And my BLUE whirlpool lights look great.

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I'll give you the blue whirlpool lights but the slings and inlanes are not my cup of tea.

Agreed. I tested out a bunch of blue in all different places when I shopped my newly acquired WH20. The only place they stayed was behind the blue targets on the left and the whirlpool. Everywhere else was a little too much for my taste. Your game though so do what looks good to your eyes.

But your blue inlane lights look like shit

I like it...and it is my game so they will stay.

We used the Comet Ice Blue in certain areas. Not as dark and harsh as a regular blue. But most any blue is better the red under the whirlpool.

Lmao, I love how cavalier you are with your criticisms.

Looks good though! Might I suggest new instruction cards? I used this design. It really spruces up the apron. http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Whitewater-V2

If you're going for the "everything's blue" route, these might be more your speed:
http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Whitewater-V1

To add some light on Big foot, I ran a spot light and hid it under and in the back side of Big foots cave. It adds a subtle constant light on him.

ha it's just an opinion. We're in a club here...if you can't talk some shit to your fellow club members what's the point I say!

If people actually get upset at someone else for which bulb they put in a socket or pissed because they get some shit for it, that person is too tightly wound.

Very nice! I like the overall look, and seems you have a good taste: no dominant blue, no purple... Good job! This is the real White Water.
And yes, extra points for Road Show

:DThank you
I like clean White bulbs. It looks fresh.
Especially when you polish the playfield.
And clean and flame polish the ramps.
Only some blue att the left targets, and the Whirlpool.

Where did you buy the left inlane plastic?
Seems you need the upper playfield mountain as well.

Yes, i have a new upper mountain now mounted.
I think i bought it from pinballcenter.

Which rom is everyone using? I currently have L-2 so well out of date. Is there a list somewhere showing all the differences?

L-5 is the best/toughest

My WH20 could use a shop. Right now I have LEDs in the GI (including some blue under some of the mountains in the back that are now wearing on me). I'm thinking I'll go back to full incandescent for the GI to get the original dimming effects, and to get rid of any of the color blasting that I've grown to dislike.

GI works great that way. Most inserts for me are LED other than the rafts which never looked right to me.

Do it, Deacon! White Water has such cool dimming effects. My favorite being the way it dims as you lock a ball into no way out. Like you're paddling into a deep cave.

After the shop out, kick back. Learn to work the saxophone, and drink scotch whiskey all night long.

I bought the GI OCD board from herg and it brought the dimming effect back to life. Great product and it was easy to tweak to my liking.

I tried to fix my ball hangups last night. I have the rubber on the VUK wireform and pushed the Cliffy up against the ramp so there is no ridge. Sadly I am still getting ball hangups. The reason is that the ball guide and ramp edge don't line up so the ball hangs up against the edge of the ball guide.

Has anyone bent the ball guide to fix this? Looks like 2-3 mm would fix it.

Search this tread because i have some pretty detailed posts about this issue. I've done hours of work on this and I'll give you the cliff notes of my findings.

First, I've manged to set up my game so that rubber washers are not needed to prevent the ball spin. The first thing to do is make sure that the metal VUK guide is correctly set. There is a hole in the metal ball-guide apparatus (on the lower playfield) where a "leg" on the metal VUK guide/cage needs to be inserted. Also, I've found that some washers (I think on the side closest to the translite) angle the VUK guide enough to prevent the spin. I'm pretty sure I have a post in here that gives some more detail. All of the VUK guides are probably a little different so it may just be that mine is bent right, but regardless, I've got mine set now so there's no need to fool with washers.

Second, make sure your game is leveled correctly. You need to level White Water with the upper playfield OFF, with a level near the back of the lower playfield (you need to check the front too but that's easy to get to).

Third, after LOTs of testing, I found that it was ultimately my plastic ramp edge causing the hangups. I observed the exact same thing you did, and it looked like the ball was getting hung up on the side, where the plastic ramp meets the metal vertical ball guide. I spent hours trying to adjust the ramp setting (washers on one or the other side, using tape to angle the sides in, etc.) but no amount of adjusting fixed the hangup. How I ultimately figured out it was the ramp lip was that I removed the plastic ramp from the game entirely and put a pinball on it by hand: I found that the ball just liked to hang up right on the edge of the lip (almost like when you overfill a glass of water and the water creates a "bubble" above the top of a glass rather than trickling over the edge.) So ... I got out some sandpaper and sanded down that sharp plastic lip until the ball tended to slip off the end of the ramp rather than getting hung up. Then I used finer sandpaper to smooth out my work and then did the old Novus 3, 2, 1 treatment to smooth everything out. When working the ramp I would do my best to try to find a way to MAKE the ball get hung up on the end of the ramp and then work the area more so that I could no longer effectively do it. By the time I was done it was still possible for me to get the ball to hang, but it was WAY more difficult than how I started out. I figured that once I added the natural tilt of the game to the equation the ball would no longer hang. Lastly, when I reinstalled the ramp I thoroughly tested the area as I was setting the ramp (BEFORE YOU TOTALLY REASSEMBLE and while you still have good access to that area). I would use my hand to place the pinball in that area and try to get it stuck, then adjust if needed. Challenge yourself to try to get the ball to hang and if it becomes very difficult or impossible for you to get the ball to hang then you know you've done your job.

I honestly have not had a problem since. It's been over a year since I did this and I've only had a handful of times (less than 5) when the ball has hung back there. Even then, a small nudge would get the ball to move. I can't remember when the last hangup occurred, it's been over 6 months.

Of course all of this requires significant disassembly, which you should be doing periodically to clean the game anyway. I tend to do a full breakdown and cleaning about once every 2 years. When I reassemble I pay very close attention to that area and make sure I roll test with a pinball before full reassembly to make sure that area is squared away. I struggled with this for YEARS and it was ultimately the sanding and smoothing of that ramp-lip that fixed the issue.

Three years and two house moves later I’ve nearly finished my full restoration. Definitely jumped in at the deep end picking Whitewater for my first project!

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I need some pictures please. While restoring my Whitewater I noticed that the left sling has two of the same switches.

My understanding is that originally, the machines shipped with with a scoring switch, three wiring positions with a diode, and a kicker switch, two wiring positions -no diode, (Leaf switch - SW-1A-120 and SW-1A-114, respectively) on each sling.

The left sling on my machine has two scoring switches (three position with diode).

Could someone post pictures of their left and right sling switches from under the playfield?

Thanks.

I have decided to drill another hole in the ball guide mounting tab beside the existing hole. This will shift the ball guide a few mm and in my tests eliminates ball hangups. I'll drill & reinstall tonight.

Need a source for replacement parts for a White Water. Are NOS plastics still around? Also back box side panel graphics needed.

I see interior cabinets are painted blue and some are black. Were there 2 different versions of this machine?

Only Black crappy paint job from factory. This is my machine Cab. Full resto's like mine are simply stunning.
I spent 300 Hours on my WH20

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I believe it! Those labor hours add up quick. I'll need to repaint the head blue. Any recommendations to match the original color?

There's a blue color code that you can take to Home Depot or Lowes to have them make. It rarely matches, though, due to age and condition. A previous owner to my machine tried to touch up the cab, and it doesn't look so hot.

Here's the one i used. I did the entire cab, so can't say how it would match up for a partial job. It looked great with the new decals I put on though.

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Drano matched the colour on his damn near perfectly. Check out his White Water Restoration thread. It is mentioned in there.

I need to find replacement inserts for these pictured. What's the Williams part number?

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A good source:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=402&pg=1

Please doublecheck the size.

Not that I know much about this, but are the inserts actually damaged? It looks like the clear has chipped away, bit the inserts may be fine?

So is there a clear lens that goes over the insert?

Also need a few pics of the jet bumper lamp lead connections.

In case you see no damage on inserts, you still need decal on it, like this:
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/whitewater-insert-decal-set/

As the decal set doesn't contains pink/black colors related to this insert, you have to paint this as well.

The parts listing for this machine shows 2 different metal mini posts. The first is 02-4677 and requires 4. The other is 02-4659 and requires 10. They are shaped differently, but what are the positions for these on the playfield?

Noticed my upper playfield flipper was acting up so I went to put on a new coil sleeve and coil stop.
This is the first one I have pulled off where the coil stop had actually cracked in half as well as had the metal stop part jammed inside the coil sleeve. (Photo)
While I was under there I decided I may as well replace the linkage rod as well.
Arrrrgh, the did not leave enough room to remove it!!!
No problem I thought I'll just unscrew the two little Phillips head screws on the first little bracket the rod slips into and it will just come right out.
Nope. The damn little screws are in so tight that I am just stripping the heads.

Edit--- Finally just kept trying different tools until I finally got those two damn screws out. It was a pain in the ass but it sure saved me a ton of work.

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Re-assembling ramps and upper playfield, and don't have a photo of the position for this switch. Where does this mount?

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I am pretty sure it's the ball drop into the Whirlpool that goes under the playfield. I sold my WW a little while back though...

Here are some pictures of the subway assembly. This should help you re-assemble it.

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(That last one is for the connector, should you need it)