(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,493 posts
  • 440 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by TheLaw
  • Topic is favorited by 195 Pinsiders

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There are 4493 posts in this topic. You are on page 54 of 90.
#2651 2 years ago

Hmm
But it looks like the one at Marcos
I think i order it from marcos and see if its the right.

#2652 2 years ago
Quoted from Tjohejsan:

Hmm
But it looks like the one at Marcos
I think i order it from marcos and see if its the right.

Yep as long as you have the hex post to go on top of it still.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-with-wh2o-right-inlaneoutlane-post-1#post-158859

Good luck!

#2653 2 years ago

Yes i have the hex post

1 week later
#2654 2 years ago

Cleaning out my garage and found a topper with the foil. The other decal art is slightly faded and as usual it has a small wrinkle down the middle and the white plastic has yellowed some.
How much are these going for now?

#2655 2 years ago

Stupid money.

#2656 2 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

Cleaning out my garage and found a topper with the foil. The other decal art is slightly faded and as usual it has a small wrinkle down the middle and the white plastic has yellowed some.
How much are these going for now?

You might be able to get a "C-list" DMD game for it.

2 weeks later
#2657 2 years ago

Can someone do me a quick favor and snap a few pictures of the wiring beneath the left side Outlane (for the bounce back and W/Lit inserts)?

Edit: that came out awkward. Looking for some pics of the wiring between those two lights). . Thanks!

#2658 2 years ago

That area is a little busy. Let me know if you need additional pictures, or a focus on something more specific.

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#2659 2 years ago

My big foot diverter is not working and doesn't work in coil test. Before I go about taking game apart to get to the coil any of you guys have advice on other ways to troubleshoot?

Thanks,
Craig

#2660 2 years ago

Check fuses! Test the trans on the power driver board.

#2661 2 years ago

Got power on the bigfoot coil?

#2662 2 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Got power on the bigfoot coil?

What's the easiest way to get to the coil?

#2663 2 years ago

I guess from underneath?

#2664 2 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

I guess from underneath?

This coil is between the main and upper playfields. Looks like I may have to remove upper playfield but just wanting confirmation of that

#2665 2 years ago

Started putting LED's in my Whitewater. The inserts and 3/4 of the playfield are probably one of the easiest I have done. Now comes the Whirlpool ramp. Good God, what a logistical nightmare. Tonight will attempt to tackle unhooking all those wires, those ramps, and that stupid upper playfield. Say a prayer please.

#2666 2 years ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

Started putting LED's in my Whitewater. The inserts and 3/4 of the playfield are probably one of the easiest I have done. Now comes the Whirlpool ramp. Good God, what a logistical nightmare. Tonight will attempt to tackle unhooking all those wires, those ramps, and that stupid upper playfield. Say a prayer please.

To access the Whirlpool lamps take the lamp-board out from underneath (TAKE PICS OF THE WAY ITS INSTALLED, PARTICULARLY THE LONG SPACER). Install the new bulbs, then replace the lamp board. There's no need to take off the upper playfield. You will need to remove the subway ramp (at least partially). Just make sure you don't forget the spacer and be careful not to screw any of the woodscrews up through the top of the playfield (should not be a problem if you put it back the way you found it).

#2667 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

This coil is between the main and upper playfields. Looks like I may have to remove upper playfield but just wanting confirmation of that

If you lift the playfield you'll see what you need to do. Pretty sure it's accessible from underneath

#2668 2 years ago

I went ahead and took it off. Got access to all the bulbs I needed to finish the LED swap. Cleaned and waxed the ramps, and ready to install cliffy's in a day or so. I have owned the machine 11 years and this is the first time I did anything to it really since I got it. So much nastiness. Numbered all the connectors so it will be easy to match them up. Replaced the right green lock target that was smashed to bits. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. St went slow and made note of where everything goes. Will finish it up on Saturday.

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-1
#2669 2 years ago

Those aren't blue LEds in the whirlpool are they?

-1
#2670 2 years ago

Yes. It is what the pinballbulbs kit calls for.

#2671 2 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

My big foot diverter is not working and doesn't work in coil test. Before I go about taking game apart to get to the coil any of you guys have advice on other ways to troubleshoot?
Thanks,
Craig

First, the fuse for that coil has multiple coils on it. If the other coils work, fuse is fine.

Most likely the drive and/or predrive transistor is bad, and needs to be replaced. Information on how to test those can be found on pinwiki.com under the WPC link.

-1
#2672 2 years ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

Yes. It is what the pinballbulbs kit calls for.

This makes me want to avoid pinballbulbs and kits in general. The stock colour is incandescent with red caps. I would suggest putting 1SMD frosted bulbs and re-installing the red caps. The red 'ring' is supposed to be red to match the RED "Whirlpool is lit" light up on the upper playfield sign.

#2673 2 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

The red 'ring' is supposed to be red to match the RED "Whirlpool is lit" light up on the upper playfield sign.

Why not just stick a blue bulb in the whirlpool sign then?

#2674 2 years ago

I prefer the blue whirlpool bulbs myself. It's water.

#2675 2 years ago

I like the blue. So that's what I went with.

#2676 2 years ago

Blue is the way to go with the whirlpool.
Looks much better then the red.

#2677 2 years ago

I love a great Red/Blue debate! But you can't really argue taste with people that order kits anyway.

#2678 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Why not just stick a blue bulb in the whirlpool sign then?

I'm a purist. I bring pinball machines back to life but I always maintain that stock look. Although I've been known to get crazy and stray once and awhile. Personally I think blue flipper rubbers are better than the original stock red ones.

#2679 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Why not just stick a blue bulb in the whirlpool sign then?

My god you are a monster sir!

Why not use teal? closer to the color of the water on the side and translite than blue?
Make sure to use a mix of white and blue for the choppy peaks in the water.
Big foot hootfoot targets should be a mix of yellow & red to simulate flames.

My got people where will it end?!?

#2680 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I love a great Red/Blue debate! But you can't really argue taste with people that order kits anyway.

And it is difficult to debate someone that knows it all. Hahahahaha.

#2681 2 years ago

The great red blue whirlpool war! Almost as bad as the great butter battle of 1984!

I get what you're saying though. Easy to see red for the sign, and red for the whirlpool, a nice cohesiveness to aide the player in making shots in a design that would be otherwise confusing--since most ramp paths are hidden away from the player. At least that's my perception.

But alas, I've had more people question me as to why there are red lights in my whirlpool. I say, "It's the blood of the man that fell overboard you failed to save."

In all seriousness, is there an on-the-record reason why Nordman chose red? I'd honestly like to know, because I feel like had he chose a blue sign cover and blue whirlpool lights, no one would probably care.

#2682 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

In all seriousness, is there an on-the-record reason why Nordman chose red? I'd honestly like to know, because I feel like had he chose a blue sign cover and blue whirlpool lights, no one would probably care.

The game is a sea-of-blue already. Don't tell me the flipper buttons should be blue too?!

#2683 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

In all seriousness, is there an on-the-record reason why Nordman chose red? I'd honestly like to know, because I feel like had he chose a blue sign cover and blue whirlpool lights, no one would probably care.

It's red, NOT blue, because red is the standard pinball light/insert color indicating a jackpot. And as we all know whirlpool jackpot is a big part of the game.

So suck on that

#2684 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

It's red, NOT blue, because red is the standard pinball light/insert color indicating a jackpot.

Excellent point, but the only time the whirlpool shot scores a jackpot is when you're playing big foot hot foot, and the "big foot jackpot" is routed through his cave, otherwise, they're just awarding the boulder garden awards. The boulder lights ARE red, however, lending to the cohesive nature of the lights.

I mean, either way, I don't really care. I'm just playing devil's advocate here. My whirlpool is red only because I was way too lazy to change them out when I shopped the game, and I didn't want to feel the wrath of TheLaw but I've thought about changing them out on more than one occasion. I just feel like the whirlpool lights are more of an atmospheric touch more than an actual indicator of something. They just kinda sit there... spinning.

At least it isn't as heretic as painting the boulders white and making it a snow theme, right?? I mean, who the hell wants to go rafting in the winter! Hypothermia: The Game.

#2685 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

At least it isn't as heretic as painting the boulders white and making it a snow theme, right?? I mean, who the hell wants to go rafting in the winter! Hypothermia: The Game.

Oh god no...that's of course rock bottom (other than white powder coating but, let's just act like that isn't a thing).

#2686 2 years ago

I have yellow on mine...

#2688 2 years ago

Finished my game, so now i am in the club
It was very dirty when i bought it.
Lots of new parts and lots of cleaning
Whats left now is to changed all the 3 flipper parts.

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#2689 2 years ago

Almost forgotten, have to changed the mini playfield to my other new clearcoted i just bought.
Not so funny ): have to take apart half of the game, almost

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#2690 2 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

First, the fuse for that coil has multiple coils on it. If the other coils work, fuse is fine.
Most likely the drive and/or predrive transistor is bad, and needs to be replaced. Information on how to test those can be found on pinwiki.com under the WPC link.

Thank you. All other coils worked. This was a HEP restore I just got back and the connector had been conveniently extended to a very accessible location. It had come undone while I was messing around. Just had to re-seat and is well. Thanks for the help!

#2691 2 years ago
Quoted from Tjohejsan:

Finished my game, so now i am in the club
It was very dirty when i bought it.
Lots of new parts and lots of cleaning
Whats left now is to changed all the 3 flipper parts.

Awesome!! Looks great.

#2692 2 years ago

I've just joined the club and went straight in for a /strip/clean/rubber etc. First question, close this gap up or not? It was closed up with a rubber before I stripped it which I found strange as there's clearly a route there for the ball with 2 switches to hit. The manual shows it closed up with a 1 1/4" rubber. On pinball arcade its open for a ball to pass through. Do most people close it off or leave it open?

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#2693 2 years ago

Mine is open. Right outlane post is all the way out to compensate the extra drain factor.

#2694 2 years ago

The age old question

Quoted from calvin12:

ring was added in production to eliminate fast drains to the right outlane. I had mine out for a while and it game no pop action at all, but I did not have a drain issue either. I put the ring in and not I have great action in the pops. I left it in. The switch below the pops will still get hit but its rare. This was accounted for in the software and you will find not hitting that switch does not set off a credit dot either.

#2695 2 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

I've just joined the club and went straight in for a /strip/clean/rubber etc. First question, close this gap up or not? It was closed up with a rubber before I stripped it which I found strange as there's clearly a route there for the ball with 2 switches to hit. The manual shows it closed up with a 1 1/4" rubber. On pinball arcade its open for a ball to pass through. Do most people close it off or leave it open?

Open it up. I don't get many drains from that area anyway.

#2696 2 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Open it up. I don't get many drains from that area anyway.

Agreed. I just picked up one a few weeks ago and did a full shop out and decided to leave it open. I have not noticed any significant imbalance in drains on the right side.

The pops don't get used a ton or anything but there is still decent action from the left orbit.

#2697 2 years ago

Thanks guys, open it is.

#2698 2 years ago

Could someone please take å picture of the switch so i know what color of THE cable that that gös to what.
Its located under the upper mountain.

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#2699 2 years ago

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#2700 2 years ago

Thank you so much

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