I would add the missing mountain mod to this list.

If you do LEDs, consider Pinball Bulb's GI upgrade kit to light up the middle of the playfield.

I know. I was just helping you out.

Stoopid math!

Does anyone know the part numbers for the metal plates behind the light lock targets on either side of the No Way Out ramp?

If I'm understanding you correctly there are none OEM....this is why the targets and the ramps get broken behind them frequently. The Mantis protectors are available here

https://mantispinball.com/product/whitewater-protector-set/

Aha! That's what I'm looking for

Anyone have a used playfield they would be willing to sell?

I was just playing a few games, and thinking how much I love these pinblades!

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OK , I got a white water in the shop , someone hacked some of the wires I need some good pics of the board connection that plug into the wpc board and all the connections on the bottom of the driver board , heck take a good picture of all the connectors so I can figure out what wires go where because they were us soldered to the board .... thanks ..

J115 , j114 , j121, j122 ... and the one that is in the lower left corner of the driver board , the long one that I believe is the main power ...

The manual tells you color codes and pins

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Anyone have an extra right sling plastic collecting dust?

Thanks for the pics , that helps , I do have the manual , but someone spliced wires and did some cap , now it gives me some sort of wire map ... the j115 was the one that was jacked up ... it goes to the big transformer .. the manual just says yellow white , yellow ..after some digging ... found out the colors a had were not the colors I needed ..lol

Just so you know I'm not a newbie , look at your manual , look at the wiring for J115 , then look at J115 in your machine , you see all yellow and yellow - white wires in the connection, NO .... so that is the one that was burnt and the soldered straight to the board , upon me clean in it up , I started trying to find what connected there , we'll ran myself crazy looking for yellow wires and yellow- white wires .. till I started tracing .. whoa .... they are that color at the end , but different colors at the back box ...

So starting from pin one , what are the color cobination on your connection. .....

Thanks

From the pic I can gather , J115 ..... brown , brown , green N/C orange , orange , white yellow .... after that it's hard to tell .... but I'm getting there ....

I actually do! I'm in Australia though happy to send it over

I replaced both of mine. If you are interested I have the old ones. Not bad shape but some wear by raft 8 if I recall.

Both what ? Are you akin to me ? ...

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That's what I do I fix all this stuff

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And all these

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Yeah , your fun is my job , what fun it is

Anyone got a decent driver board

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Not my handy work ...but I got to fix it right

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I had to recently undo a wiring hack on my WH20 last week too. Here is a picture of the J115 connector my friend sent me from his game. I had the same concerns because when I checked the WH20 manual it showed different colors then what was inside my game. Hope this helps and same colored wires like the white/brown or white/yellow are interchangeable.

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I think earlier WPC games were all yellow as per how the manual references them. This is what made undo a previous person's hack more difficult to trace. Good luck and let me know if you need anything else.

I was thinking of possibly drilling some holes in back topside of the clear dome that is on the topper. I was told the waterfalls get the bubble/wrinkle in them from all of the heat and I could see how that is possible because I had the dome off to replace some of the light bulbs and you could feel the heat being put off from them and I could imagine how much the heat builds up with the dome being on.

So I was thinking about doing it to preserve and prevent any future damage to my waterfall decal.

Good idea or bad idea?

Thanks mwong168 ...that was what I needed , but you can see how the manual would leave you looking for lost wires .... lol ... then you discover that at the transformer the wire change to the colors .... wow , thanks Williams for making clear the colors that connect to j115 ... glad I didn't catch it on fire ..lol ...jk

Have you considered just putting in LEDs in the place of the incandescent bulbs? I know that they don't have the "soft fading" effect that really makes the waterfall look good, but that'd probably be the best way to keep the heat off the topper.

LEDs look terrible in there. Holes aren't gonna hurt anything even if they don't help.

Are there any better solutions? What if you only replaced every other one with led?

The way I look at it is this: my game has a few bubbles behind the foil. It was probably on for many hours, and the small amount of hours I will put on it in comparison are surely not going to make it any worse. I think of them as character bubbles that nobody in the real world would ever even notice.

The best solution is putting 12V leds in the topper, not the 6V ones as it will burn out the board there & they are too bright. I find the 12V ones still give the soft waterfall effect without it being overbearing

This my other thought, the games were left on for hours hours and hours, possibly days for who knows how long so is me having it on for a few hours a week going to make it much if any worse? I still think like yzfguy said it's not going to hurt anything drilling holes in the dome. The only reason I was hesitant to drill the holes was because it's the factory dome with the matching serial number on it, but it's got a crack in anyways so it's not like it's perfect plus replacements are available.

I have a bubble-less topper and it's never gotten any bubbles by being on for a few hours or sometimes even the better part of a day. I think you're right that it's the prolonged exposure in an arcade environment that likely caused the issue.

Holes in the back of the dome is a good idea though.

The GLM board upgrade looks great, but I need to see high resolution video of the GLM board using 5050 LEDs before agreeing that it looks better than old school bulbs.

$100 is a bit much just so you can change 12V for 6V led's in the topper - the 12V ones are fine, just not as bright which isn't the end of the world IMO

How is it we can re-engineer the chase boards, re-create a new topper dome, and re-make every White Water part but the foil waterfall remains a mystery?

It looks better than no chase effect, but still more instant on and off than standard bulbs. I think that is a good option if you had no other choice, but standard set up kicks it's ass.

I agree, from the video it looks pretty good, but doesn't looks as good as the factory setup with incandescent bulbs.

Can anyone help me with the height, and possibly a photo, of the left ramp return mount spacer by the left inlane guide.

Thanks.

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Has anyone replaced the Flipper 1 opt board on a White Water with the Flipper 2 opto board? Is it just a straight swap out or does it throw up a error code during start up?

New owner....

How difficult/time consuming is a shop on this game?