I just bought a whitewater does anyone know where I can get the white mountain set? I was very lucky that I found a Original topper for it! I'm looking to put some more mods on it so any help would be great!

Where did you get the decals? Thanks

Right here

ebay.com link: Williams White Water WH2O Pinball Insanity Falls Spine Chiller DECAL MOD

Like white water rafting in winter, huh? It's kind of a summer vacation activity. I really never understood the desire to do this, but to each his own.

https://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-WH2O-03-87XX-5

As far as mods, I'd recommend the bigfoot light mod that illuminates bigfoot when he's active. I also like the missing mountain mod. If you do LEDs, the PinballBulbs GI kit really does a good job lighting it up! The bear mod and rafts mods are okay. ColorDMD looks great on this game.

DSC04605 (resized).jpg

Quick question. I just installed the NVRAM on my whitewater, and when I was going through everything afterwards I noticed that my game had the wires plugged into J206 and J208 but the manual says that they should be in J207 and J209, which way is correct? Or does it even matter?

white water 4 (resized).JPG

white water 3 (resized).JPG

white water 2 (resized).JPG

Not sure if either or is correct but mine were 207&209IMG_0982 (resized).JPG

It's the same either way. If you check them for continuity, you'll find that they're the exact same

That's what I kind of figured. Now I just need to replace switch #48 and all is good!

Thanks for the quick replies Guys!

Does anyone have an opinion as to which Colordmd option looks best on white water, LED vs. LCD? I'm leaning toward LCD for the option to use the upscaling. Has anyone tried both?

Don't think LED is available for awhile so that may not matter. Doubt there's juch if a difference...I have the first run lcd with no up scaling and it still looks 100 times better than orange

?? I have a first run LCD in my AFM. Don't they all have the same modes once the software is updated?

Umm....hmmm I didn't know you could update the software? That's back when they came shipped with the software on it.
I'll have to look though, i thoguht it was diff'rent than later ones but i honestly haven't looked since I put it in years ago. Is it possible i just didn;t know how to use it then and never revisited it?

Huh, I could have sworn I've seen them before.

Op, I've seen both LED and LCD color dmds. Both are VERY nice, but me personally, I definitely prefer the LED. My only gripe with it is that you can see some color separation when they display white colors. Even still, I think LED does the best homage to the DMD than the LCD does.

How does your missing mountain attach to the game? I have tried one with velcro that didn't hold unfortunately

This is one reason I think the original Red West missing mountain is the best one. It has a nice, clean, sturdy way it attaches. The mold matches the style of the original boulders really well. The only thing is you can't underlight it like the others because it's much thicker.

Double sided tape has held up for me.

This evening I removed the subway ramp under the play field for the first time since I've owned my WW (it's been 13 years, but it's also a very low play game). I'm working on getting to the less accessible areas to try and track down the source of the black filth that's getting tracked across the rubbers and play field. This is a project that I actually started when we first got the pin and ended up stopping at dissembling the upper play field and the subway ramp.

What I noticed when I removed the subway ramp was that the play field underside, immediately over the subway ramp was blackend pretty much along the length of the subway run, with the worst around the entrance to the mine VUK. What truly surprised me though was that whatever this was - it wiped right off with a clean dry cloth. No scrubbing needed. The ramp was pretty dirty too, and that I scrubbed with my Millwax and a toothbrush (I'm out of Novus) and that cleaned up pretty well.

Any idea where the black filth might have come from? I'm sure there is some degree of carbon buildup as part of normal usage and the machine has never been fully shopped as I essentially bought it just days after it came out of the container from Europe. But I also can't see any other accumulation like this under the play field. I figured if it was normal wear and tear that the entire underside would be coated, but it's not.

Next, up working up the courage to disassemble the upper play field and potentially replace the ball popper in the multi ball trough as it sometimes takes an extra pop to launch the ball out.

Usually it is just carbon build up and if you use black rubbers or posts the rubber disperses over time. Make sure to keep the balls clean as well.

Has anyone successfully removed air bubbles from their toppers?

In the dome?

More of a tech question but why not start here since it is Whitewater.
On my game, sometimes the sound will just cut out all together.
However if I turn the game off and back on it works great again.
This is happening more and more so something is starting to go.
Any ideas what part of the sound board it might be?

Try reseating all ribbon connectors and anything associated with the sound board. Also try pushing home the ASIC chip (big square chip) gently on all sides. This has been linked to intermittent sound problems in the past.

I remember reading that Bryan Kelly says he cut a slit in the bubble.I think you'd need a very sharp knife.Haven't attempted it myself.

Mine has two bubbles and of course I"m petrified of trying to repair it.

I wouldn't touch it. You can do far more damage than good trying to repair it.

That said, however, I've heard of people heating up a pin, and pushing it through the back of the plastic mount to create a pinhole for air to escape, then push the decal flat again. Personally, I'm more willing to live with bubbles than to have the potential to damage the topper even more.

Thanks for the reply.
Will do.

I'd just like to have an original topper for mine

Feel free to PM me with any sound questions you have. I have had a number of sound related issues on my White Water and I've been able to resolve all of them.

Here is my proudest resolution;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/explain-to-me-how-the-mpu-triggers-sound-on-a-wpc-sound-board

I think you're right...I took a peak at it a it has the 4 buttons and USB just like a normal one...I'll give it a try this weekend when I get time

Allibaster, I really like the way you have lit your game. What did you use to light the mountains along the back? I know it is common to put some light strips under there, but seems alot of people use Red. And the mountains along the left look good too. Let us know how you did yours?

mine looks like allibasters,
I used comet strips in white under all the mountains including big foots cave.
I did find a lot of white light washing out from under the mountains onto the PF so made up some thin cardboard "blocker" that go under the mountains to stop the light going out

The biggest difference is from PinballBulb's GI upgrade kit. It provides LED strips for above the back mountains, below the flippers, and some spotlights. Kind of expensive, but makes a huge difference. The LED strip for the mountains is mounted above, not under, the mountains.

For the rest of the GI, I used mostly Comet Optix Maximus LEDs. They do a great job of throwing the light sideways.

Has anyone replaced all their rubbers with Titan rings? What colors did you choose, and how did it turn out?

Titan all the way.. I went with red for the flipper rubbers, dark blue for the posts and white rings all the way around.

Does anyone have an extra right sling for sale? I just picked up a WH20 and mine is toast. Thought I would check here before the stores.

I'm having an issue with my machine in that when I lock the 3rd ball for White Water Multiball, 1 of the balls always come out of the front of the VUK back down No Way Out instead of being launched to the top flipper.
Anyone seen this before and have advice for me?

First thing to check would be if the game is properly leveled.

If the game is leveled, I suspect the popper and the VUK are putting some wicked backspin on the pinball. You should check the popper cup and the VUK alignment. Some people put rubber rings on the VUK wireform to stop spin but I've found that if the VUK is alligned right you don't need it (at least on my machine).

Okay, pinball is level.

Looking at it more closely, the force of the VUK is knocking the other balls that are leaning against the one being popped back into the playfield.

Should the balls in the VUK be leaning against each other?

Your VUK is too low and not level with the balls lined up. Yes, each ball is leaning on each other. That looks to me what is happening.

Okay, I misunderstood your question. I was thinking about it as the ball rolling back down the Spine Chiller (backspin).

I would inspect the ball trough to make sure it's not coming loose or something, and then look for broken parts in or around the mech. I don't think there's any real adjustment to the trough, other than making sure it's attached tightly. Check to make sure the cup that holds the ball under the VUK is not damaged. I'm just theorizing here, but if the balls are rolling too far forward then the popper could be forcing them back the other way when it pops. Or, if the trough isn't angled correctly then there may not be enough gravity to hold the balls in when the VUK pops.

This is an excellent answer. You can inspect the cup just by looking down at the VUK through the upper PF. If any of the fins are broken off then replace the part. If you don't have one, you can swap it with the one on the Gold Mine VUK until you can get a new one. If the problem remains then the easiest way to look at the multiball mech is to remove it from the bottom of the PF. Otherwise you'll have to take off the upper PF. This is fairly simple to do too if you have done it before but for first timers it can be a lengthy process.

Just joined the club tonight! Got one in good shape from a very nice local gentleman for $2800!! He knew it was worth more but had quoted me that price and honored the price anyway. Great guy. And a mint huo tspp for $4500 (not AS good a deal...). Can't wait to learn more about this classic pin. Any must have protection (cliffys) or mods? Is there a colorDMD and is it worth it?

Cliffy's are a must. Especially on the upper PF where the VUK kicks up the ball. There is a colour DMD, but I've heard that it's not as spectacular as switching to colour on other machines. Must mods for me were Drano missing plastic mod, missing mountain mod, bear w/fish mod, LEDs, LED OCD board by herg and the new magnet apron mod by NinJaBooT

Color DMD is awesome...much more impressive than a $5 Bear with a fish in it's mouth

At $400 CAD plus shipping, it had better be!

I felt like the color DMD added a lot of value in that it's easier to digest the information (for me) when it's in color.

One of my favorite mods is the Bigfoot Spotlight mod. It integrates perfectly, interacts with play, and lights up that area when Bigfoot is doing his thing. If you're going to put LEDs in the machine you really need the OCD boards Herg makes. White Water has a lot of fading and scrolling effects with the lighting and you need those OCD boards to preserve that.

Congrats that's cheap...it's $400 US here

To me it's one of the best color DMDs.

You're looking at $625CAD before you're hit with taxes and duty. If I could get one for under $700 I'd consider myself lucky.

I could buy over 100 bear/fish mods for that price.

That's what I meant to say.