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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,266 posts
  • 479 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by Lhyrgoif
  • Topic is favorited by 225 Pinsiders

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There are 5266 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 106.
#2401 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveO:

I just ordered the color DMD. I can't wait to see how it looks on this game!

You're going to love it! It looks great on White Water, and I think it's one of their better implementations.

#2402 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I'd like to find this sign as well. This is the only broken plastic I have on my game.
Anyone know where to get one?

If all else fails

#2403 3 years ago

Does anyone know where to get a 3D translite? I'm keen to buy one

#2404 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Does anyone know where to get a 3D translite? I'm keen to buy one

Did you check planetary pinball?

#2405 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I'd like to find this sign as well. This is the only broken plastic I have on my game.
Anyone know where to get one?

See above ^^^?

#2406 3 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Did you check planetary pinball?

Yes I did and no, they don't have it

#2407 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveO:

I just ordered the color DMD. I can't wait to see how it looks on this game!

I've got the LCD 'upscaled' animations on mine. Better than the dots or tiles for me.

#2408 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Yes I did and no, they don't have it

Bummer...

#2409 3 years ago

How does the tip of the bounceback look like? On my machine it looks worn/broken. Can somebody post a pic?

#2410 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

How does the tip of the bounceback look like?

Should just be black plastic that's lightly cupped on the end that strikes the ball.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767

#2411 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Should just be black plastic that's lightly cupped on the end that strikes the ball.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767

Can ya say that again...... A little slower....?

#2412 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Does anyone know where to get a 3D translite? I'm keen to buy one

Planatery had them and so did Bay Area Amusements.
Both are sold out.
I did get one and it is awesome. Hope they do another run sometime.

#2413 3 years ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

I've got the LCD 'upscaled' animations on mine. Better than the dots or tiles for me.

I haven't seen one the LCD in person. That is good to hear that it looks great.

#2414 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Planatery had them and so did Bay Area Amusements.
Both are sold out.
I did get one and it is awesome. Hope they do another run sometime.

How long ago did you buy it?

I've been looking for awhile now. Curious if I missed it.

#2415 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

How long ago did you buy it?
I've been looking for awhile now. Curious if I missed it.

I think I purchased mine around August or September.
I know I already had it when I went to the Expo in October.

#2416 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Should just be black plastic that's lightly cupped on the end that strikes the ball.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767

Black tip is missing here. Is it possible to just get the tip?

#2417 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Are white mountains mod still available somewhere?

Up

#2418 3 years ago

Are protections for mountains available? I see cliffys has a couple: are they worthed?

#2419 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Is it possible to just get the tip?

Not that I'm aware. When mine broke, I tried to glue it back together. Even with epoxy, the force of the bounce back was too much, and it would snap off again.

You're best off just ordering a new plunger as a whole.

#2420 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Are protections for mountains available? I see cliffys has a couple: are they worthed?

Personally, I haven't used the cliffy protectors. I just use clear washers. Here's mine:

IMG_5883.JPG

#2421 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Personally, I haven't used the cliffy protectors. I just use clear washers. Here's mine:

where to get them? I think it's the same as cliffys, but cheaper. But of course I think that flying balls coming from the top are impossible to protect from..

#2422 3 years ago

I am on ROM L-3 and want to go L-6. I see there are two versions available LH-6 and also LH-6C, accepting coins. Are those two version identical, with the latter only allowing coins? Or are there any other difference? Is LH-6C equally reliable?

#2423 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Are protections for mountains available? I see cliffys has a couple: are they worthed?

Pinbits makes a popular boulder plastic protector.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_72&products_id=548&zenid=855f1255508dba236641bbe687784e7b

I bought them and for some reason it made my mountains not fit under the ramp. I do have replacement boulders, so they may be thicker and that is what is keeping everything from fitting. Someone else use these and like them?

I would sell mine for a fair price.

#2425 3 years ago

I have the Cliffy's for boulder protection. They fit perfectly and work perfectly. Order all of his protectors while you're at it.

#2426 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Does anyone know where to get a 3D translite? I'm keen to buy one

I got my 3D translite for both whitewater and attack from Mars from 'ministryofpinball' just do a Google search for them, they have them in stock now. They were very well packed and shipping was fast. I would definitely buy from them again. Good luck

#2427 3 years ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

I got my 3D translite for both whitewater and attack from Mars from 'ministryofpinball' just do a Google search for them, they have them in stock now. They were very well packed and shipping was fast. I would definitely buy from them again. Good luck

Do a search on Ministry Of Pinball. There are a few threads complaining about this vendor. Make your own judgement, but educate yourself.

#2428 3 years ago

I am from the Netherlands and know this vendor. Nothing wrong with it. Can't say how foreign shipment are handled but within europe no problems. This is a respected stern dealer and part supplier. Make your own judgement...

1 week later
#2429 3 years ago

I've installed a new plunger in the bounceback. The problem is that the tip is a bit too long and it blocks the balls when it drains (when bounceback is off). Should I cut it a bit?

#2430 3 years ago

I installed a new spring in the plunger, the right one for wh2o. Still, I cant make it to the spine chiller ramp. The speed of the ball definitely increased. But I noticed that in the end of the spine chiller ramp, there is no flap. So when the ball touches the end of the ramp (creating a small stair, without the flap), it looses quite a lot of speed and cant make it to go down from the spine chiller.

Is a flap supposed to be on the end of this ramp?

#2431 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I've installed a new plunger in the bounceback. The problem is that the tip is a bit too long and it blocks the balls when it drains (when bounceback is off). Should I cut it a bit?

First preference would be to adjust it. Is it physically different than the old bounce back plunger? Is there any way to adjust either the positioning or the mech itself? Or, if the parts are not identical, is there a way to swap out the tips only?

#2432 3 years ago

Make sure your apron is placed well also.

#2433 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I've installed a new plunger in the bounceback. The problem is that the tip is a bit too long and it blocks the balls when it drains (when bounceback is off). Should I cut it a bit?

Compare it to the old one to see if the length is identical. Then double check you didn't miss anything when you installed the new one. Then sand it or cut it if needed.

Quoted from Luppin:

I installed a new spring in the plunger, the right one for wh2o. Still, I cant make it to the spine chiller ramp. The speed of the ball definitely increased. But I noticed that in the end of the spine chiller ramp, there is no flap. So when the ball touches the end of the ramp (creating a small stair, without the flap), it looses quite a lot of speed and cant make it to go down from the spine chiller.
Is a flap supposed to be on the end of this ramp?

Do you mean you installed a new coil in the flipper? I don't understand what a new spring in the plunger has to do with the spine chiller ramp.

#2434 3 years ago

Im talking qbout the skill shot: the skill should be not too shoot the plunger too strongly, so that the ball falls back to the upper flipper instead of down the spine chiller ramp. But on my machine, even at full force, the ball always falls back to the upper flupper. Hence, no skill is required.

#2435 3 years ago

The old one (white) has the point of the tip broken, so I guess it was originally slightly longer. But the new one (black) is definitely too long, blocking the movement of the ball in the outlane when draining. There is no space for adjustment in the kickback assembly.

image (resized).jpg

#2436 3 years ago

So, is the spine chiller ramp supposed to have a flap where it connects with the upper playfield? I can see two holes by the border of the ramp where a flap could be connected. Item number?

#2437 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Im talking qbout the skill shot: the skill should be not too shoot the plunger too strongly, so that the ball falls back to the upper flipper instead of down the spine chiller ramp. But on my machine, even at full force, the ball always falls back to the upper flupper. Hence, no skill is required.

The plunger spring should be silver.

Quoted from Luppin:

The old one (white) has the point of the tip broken, so I guess it was originally slightly longer. But the new one (black) is definitely too long, blocking the movement of the ball in the outlane when draining. There is no space for adjustment in the kickback assembly.

The black one is the original. They were all black. Looks like someone swapped yours with a white one. If they did this then I'm guessing they made a few other modifications. Look under the apron and make sure you have all the original parts for the bounce back. Use the manual for your comparisons.

Quoted from Luppin:

So, is the spine chiller ramp supposed to have a flap where it connects with the upper playfield? I can see two holes by the border of the ramp where a flap could be connected. Item number?

No. The ramp connects directly to the upper playfield with two screws to secure it. There is no flap.

#2438 3 years ago

I am restoring a WH20 and I am looking at the OCD boards, specifically the GI one.

Is it worth it? or maybe the OCD LED board?

Thanks!

P1060849 (resized).jpg

#2439 3 years ago

I have the LED OCD board. I think it is well worth it. I ordered my GI OCD board and will be picking it up on Thursday so I can't comment on the GI yet.

BTW, those flippers look awesome. I just switched my left flipper from blue to orange as well. The only difference with the orange coil is that it is a lot harder to backhand the Spine Chiller shot. It can still be done, but you really need to flip it right.

#2440 3 years ago
Quoted from algrande:

I am restoring a WH20 and I am looking at the OCD boards, specifically the GI one.
Is it worth it? or maybe the OCD LED board?

I use LEDs for (95%) inserts and incandescent for GI and everything looks awesome....I don't see the need to add monies with a board like that.

#2441 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I use LEDs for (95%) inserts and incandescent for GI and everything looks awesome....I don't see the need to add monies with a board like that.

+1

#2442 3 years ago
Quoted from algrande:

I am looking at the OCD boards, specifically the GI one.

If you plan to LED the GI, I'd probably spring for the OCD board, since White Water uses TONS of GI dimming effects. Without it, the game would be a strobe/flicker fest.

#2443 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I use LEDs for (95%) inserts and incandescent for GI and everything looks awesome....I don't see the need to add monies with a board like that.

I like having the option of dimming or brightening up LEDs in specific areas of the PF. I also can't stand the harshness that occurs when you add LEDs. This is my 3rd LED OCD board and I will continue to buy them. You'll get the most out of your $200+ LED investment and the LEDs will be flowing and smooth.

Until you've seen in it action it is hard to justify an LED OCD board. Once you've seen it, you will never go back.

#2444 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Until you've seen in it action it is hard to justify an LED OCD board. Once you've seen it, you will never go back.

Short answer is until they make warm LEDs that actually have the same color temp as bulbs, I'm not interested.

Long answer is diff'rent strokes. I have machines with LED GI & Inserts and every way between. I'm glad you like them and I respect the product. Having at least 6 games that would take at least $200 a piece to start, fuck going back, I'm never going forward.

The only time I've thought of it is with Capcom...but still have 2 separate boards too pricey, not interested.

#2445 3 years ago

Okay, so I have finished with the work on my White Water.
This is what I've added
3D Translite (not sure how I feel about the look of it)
Missing Mountain Mod (not sure I like this either, it's held on with velcro)
Ice Blue LED's in top half and whirlpool, other leds elsewhere
New disaster drop ramp and upper to lower ramp
Replacement boulder set
All 4 Cliffy protectors (on the way)
Couple of rafts and Spine Chiller decals
Blue superbands, replacement of rubbers etc
I'd be interested in thoughts on the 3D translite and missing mountain

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#2446 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

If you plan to LED the GI, I'd probably spring for the OCD board, since White Water uses TONS of GI dimming effects. Without it, the game would be a strobe/flicker fest.

Or just dont use LEDS.
Off all the games that dont need leds WH2o is near the top!

#2447 3 years ago

Cant really tell the translite difference in a picture. I would ditch all of the blue overkill leds personally.

#2448 3 years ago

The ice blue LEDs look much better in person, the pictures make them look a darker blue when in fact they are a very light blue. To give you an idea the slingshot LEDs are actually white not blue

#2449 3 years ago

I like colors in my machines. Sometimes with leds sometimes with traditional bulbs. I paint these with glass paint. Leds are most of the times very bright, but they can work. Have to look in person to see what is best. Indeed WHO2 is using dimming like my CFTBL. So OCD is mandatory

#2450 3 years ago

I have never liked the blue and don't understand it personally. Whirlpool lights are red, and they should stay red. Missing mountain(t) never been to my taste either but no big deal.

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