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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,266 posts
  • 479 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 days ago by Lhyrgoif
  • Topic is favorited by 225 Pinsiders

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There are 5266 posts in this topic. You are on page 46 of 106.
#2251 3 years ago

Hi all, new to Pinside but not to White Water...

We purchased our White Water about 13 years ago, and it's a well traveled machine...

It was a re-import from Holland that came from a container import of pins. We got it for a steal because he did no resto on it, just converted it to 110 on the spot and delivered it to out house. (Plus the guy was going through a nasty divorce and trying to dump every asset he could to keep his wife from getting anything). When we pulled the glass for the first time we actually found Dutch guilder coins wedged underneath the locking bar.

Since getting it, we've done a few deep scrubs of the play field and ramps that are accessible as well as the general maintenance bits to keep the pin operational. I recently replaced all of the builders but other than that the pin is largely unrestored and un modded.

As for the well-traveled bit... Bought it in MD and it was delivered to us in VA... Moved it to CA and then to OH - and in case your wondering, movers seem to universally hate moving pins...

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#2252 3 years ago

Glad to finally become a member of the club over the weekend.

#2253 3 years ago

Howdy Partners!
I am looking for a lower and upper playfield for my White Water. Mine is in really bad shape and I would hugely appreciate any leads or if someone has an extra set they can part with.
Cheers and thank you!

#2254 3 years ago

Hello White Water owners,

Is there anyone out there that could tell me what type of screw is used here? I am trying to stay as close to original as possible. I'm guessing it's a #6 Phillips flanged head screw, but I'm not positive. I need the size and length.

Thank you!

whitewaterwire (resized).jpg

#2255 3 years ago

Nice clean Wh20 buddy!

#2256 3 years ago
Quoted from mbabischkin:

Hi all, new to Pinside but not to White Water...
We purchased our White Water about 13 years ago, and it's a well traveled machine...
It was a re-import from Holland that came from a container import of pins. We got it for a steal because he did no resto on it, just converted it to 110 on the spot and delivered it to out house. (Plus the guy was going through a nasty divorce and trying to dump every asset he could to keep his wife from getting anything). When we pulled the glass for the first time we actually found Dutch guilder coins wedged underneath the locking bar.
Since getting it, we've done a few deep scrubs of the play field and ramps that are accessible as well as the general maintenance bits to keep the pin operational. I recently replaced all of the builders but other than that the pin is largely unrestored and un modded.
As for the well-traveled bit... Bought it in MD and it was delivered to us in VA... Moved it to CA and then to OH - and in case your wondering, movers seem to universally hate moving pins...

Nice story.
Took me awhile to realize builders were boulders.

#2257 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Nice clean Wh20 buddy!

Thanks! That's my newly clearcoated upper PF. I'm finally putting her back together! It's been since April!

Got any pics of this area on your pin? My wireramp was held on by a massive panhead 2" Robertson screw. That sucker isn't going back in. I need the proper stuff!

#2258 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Thanks! That's my newly clearcoated upper PF. I'm finally putting her back together! It's been since April!
Got any pics of this area on your pin? My wireramp was held on by a massive panhead 2" Robertson screw. That sucker isn't going back in. I need the proper stuff!

Hey bud, I can peek at it tonight when I'm home.

My gut feeling it's one of those:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5809-00

BTW, what stuff did you use to CC the mini?

#2259 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Nice story.
Took me awhile to realize builders were boulders.

Yeah, I probably should have proofread that before I posted it...

#2260 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Hey bud, I can peek at it tonight when I'm home.
My gut feeling it's one of those:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/237-5809-00
BTW, what stuff did you use to CC the mini?

Thanks. I sent it out to a guy in Toronto. He's done a few in the past.

I don't think it's that type of screw. I'm thinking more like the ones in this pic, but I've seen many different variations.

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#2261 3 years ago

Hey bud, here is what I got, not sure what screw that is really, looks odd to me.
IMG_1320.JPG

#2262 3 years ago

On the other side of the wireform, I have the same phillips head with the the washer built in screw as in your picture above.

#2263 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hello White Water owners,
Is there anyone out there that could tell me what type of screw is used here? I am trying to stay as close to original as possible. I'm guessing it's a #6 Phillips flanged head screw, but I'm not positive. I need the size and length.
Thank you!

I am doing mine as well. the original one had a drywall screw in it. What ever was in there from the factory obliviously doesn't hold.
I am thinking about using T-nuts.

#2264 3 years ago

Thanks Plumonium!

Quoted from algrande:

I am doing mine as well. the original one had a drywall screw in it. What ever was in there from the factory obliviously doesn't hold.
I am thinking about using T-nuts.

I was thinking the same. That wireform gets a work out so I was thinking either t-nuts and some locktite, or possibly some vibration-damping hex head screws like this;

screw (resized).png

Probably 1/2" or 3/4" in length. #6 if possible.

#2265 3 years ago

Getting ready to powder coat my WWH20. Anyone have any examples or color suggestions?

#2266 3 years ago

I've only seen white powder coating on WH20 - don't do that

#2267 3 years ago

Go chrome!

#2268 3 years ago

Everyone has chrome. I want something different.

-1
#2269 3 years ago

Different...go Yellow.

#2270 3 years ago
Quoted from rdbronko73:

Everyone has chrome. I want something different.

The reason most people go chrome is because nothing looks better on that game.

#2271 3 years ago

Has anybody bought those polished mirror gloss chrome leg sets (4) from Pinball Life for $189

-2
#2272 3 years ago
Quoted from rdbronko73:

Getting ready to powder coat my WWH20. Anyone have any examples or color suggestions?

Quoted from TKDalumni:

Different...go Yellow.

I went yellow. Well, an off yellow.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh2o-restoration-ride-the-rapids/page/3#post-3430509

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#2275 3 years ago

Dunno if I'd do it, but I've seen white and it looks OK

#2276 3 years ago

IMHO... White looks a lot like ass.

#2277 3 years ago

Think I'm going with a dark metallic blue powder coat.

#2278 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

IMHO... White looks a lot like ass.

Agreeing with the looks like ass so savant

#2279 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

IMHO... White looks a lot like ass.

What kind of ass are we talking about?

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#2280 3 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

What kind of ass are we talking about?

LOL... Neither of those!

#2281 3 years ago

Finally the wait is over .......

Whitewater missing mountain (top left playfield)

After searching for a year and not being able to track down a missing mountain for my Whitewater I finally bit the bullet and made one myself.

This is the mountain that makes your machine complete.

There have been a few versions over the years, and this I am proud to say is absolutely the best that I could make.

I now present my version of the mountain to the pinball community.

Process:

Each mountain is custom painted for your machine, because there are 2 versions of the mountains a dark brown (reproduction) and a light brown (original mountains).

Production does not begin until your order is received, payment is made and you have specified a colour for your mountain.

Production takes 6 days from the time your order is placed.

Day 1 - cast mountain in mould using (Trowel-on 60 Rigid Polyurethane with 24 hour cure time)
Day 2 - mountain trimmed / cleaned with solvent and primed (24 hours for primer to set)
Day 3 - base brown applied (Chromacryl 2 coats)
Day 4 - brown top coat (Chromacryl 1 coat)
Day 5 - seal with matt 'cabothane clear'
Day 6 - attach velcro mounting tape (24 hour cure for glue)

European and U.S.A. customers - please allow 3 weeks for delivery from time of purchase
Australian customers - please allow 2 weeks for delivery from time of purchase

This mountain is extremely strong and could probably survive a brick being dropped on it. The expensive, high quality materials that I use is reflected in the price. However, my motto is "do it once, do it right"

The mountain is attached at 3 anchor points using Velcro tape.

Installation takes a matter of minutes and a complete set of instructions is included.

Cost US $65 (Free shipping)

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#2282 3 years ago

Nice buddy! How much is shipping?

#2283 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Nice buddy! How much is shipping?

Free shipping

Thanks for pointing it out, I have updated my post.

#2284 3 years ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Free shipping
Thanks for pointing it out, I have updated my post.

Dang -- price is very fair!! I bought a diy kit for $90 so 65 shipped for a painted one is great!

#2285 3 years ago

I lit up my boulders with led strips using Comet's matrix system. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The boulder up top was hard to light evenly because there isn't a good spot to place the strip.

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#2286 3 years ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

I lit up my boulders with led strips using Comet's matrix system. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. The boulder up top was hard to light evenly because there isn't a good spot to place the strip.

For me, this is THE best lit WH20 I've ever seen. I've had an idea of how I wanted it to look but couldn't quite visualise it. But now i know.
Thanks mate

#2287 3 years ago

I have the comet leds under mine and it looks fantastic!
I had to make some cardboard shapes to stop light leaking out under the boulders.

#2288 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

For me, this is THE best lit WH20 I've ever seen. I've had an idea of how I wanted it to look but couldn't quite visualise it. But now i know.
Thanks mate

Thanks! It's not hard to do. I used the longest strips comet makes in cool white to light the left boulder and the back of the game. I used 2, 7 led strips to light boulder on the right and one 7 led strip to the light the boulder in the bigfoot cave. I used a 7 led one to light behind the flippers as well.

#2289 3 years ago

When I hit a fast shot to the disaster drop ramp. The ball is hitting my insanity falls ramp on the way back down to the flippers. I think it's bouncing off the playfield and hitting the insanity falls ramp on that lip were the ball falls out if it gets stuck. Anyone else seen this and have a fix for it? I'm afraid if I leave it, it's going to crack/break my insanity falls ramp.

#2290 3 years ago

Hey guys,

I'm finally putting together my WH2O after a long, long time apart. I took pictures, but obviously not enough. My memory has failed in other areas as well.

I'm re-installing the two black post rubbers right beside the whirlpool hole. Is there anything that screws into the two side by side ones in this photo? I need to know so that I can start the install of the upper playfield.

Thx!

whitewater (resized).jpg

(BTW, this is not my pic)

#2291 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Is there anything that screws into the two side by side ones in this photo?

My particular game just has two machine screws that hold them down.

#2292 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hey guys,
I'm finally putting together my WH2O after a long, long time apart. I took pictures, but obviously not enough. My memory has failed in other areas as well.
I'm re-installing the two black post rubbers right beside the whirlpool hole. Is there anything that screws into the two side by side ones in this photo? I need to know so that I can start the install of the upper playfield.
Thx!

(BTW, this is not my pic)

No

#2293 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

My particular game just has two machine screws that hold them down.

Thanks. So just the standard screw with the little flange on it? Awesome. Thanks.

Thank you!

Quick replies. Thanks guys!

#2294 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

So just the standard screw with the little flange on it?

Yup.

Skins is probably right about the lack of screws holding it down. The whirlpool pretty much sits right on top of those posts, keeping the rubber down. Whoever shopped out my game last, though, put in two little machine screws in anyway, so I just re-installed them.

#2295 3 years ago

Ah, okay. So there might not even be a screw. Good to know. Thank you.

#2296 3 years ago

Almost Done. Just Chrome Plating and Powder Coating the Coin Door left to go.
New Mirco Playfields, New Art Work. Full Cabinet And Head Strip and Paint. New 3D Translite. New Speaker Panel, New Rottendog Driver Board, New Color Display, and the list just goes on

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#2297 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

So there might not even be a screw.

Correct. mbaumle was right, the whirlpool rests right on top of those two post. No need for screws. It's tight there already without adding the height of the screw heads. Sleeves aren't going anywhere

#2298 3 years ago

Hi guys. I've also listed them for sale on ebay if you prefer.

Merry Christmas

Missing / Lost mountains

Quoted from Whitewater:

Finally the wait is over .......
Whitewater missing mountain (top left playfield)
After searching for a year and not being able to track down a missing mountain for my Whitewater I finally bit the bullet and made one myself.
This is the mountain that makes your machine complete.
There have been a few versions over the years, and this I am proud to say is absolutely the best that I could make.
I now present my version of the mountain to the pinball community.
Process:
Each mountain is custom painted for your machine, because there are 2 versions of the mountains a dark brown (reproduction) and a light brown (original mountains).
Production does not begin until your order is received, payment is made and you have specified a colour for your mountain.
Production takes 6 days from the time your order is placed.
Day 1 - cast mountain in mould using (Trowel-on 60 Rigid Polyurethane with 24 hour cure time)
Day 2 - mountain trimmed / cleaned with solvent and primed (24 hours for primer to set)
Day 3 - base brown applied (Chromacryl 2 coats)
Day 4 - brown top coat (Chromacryl 1 coat)
Day 5 - seal with matt 'cabothane clear'
Day 6 - attach velcro mounting tape (24 hour cure for glue)
European and U.S.A. customers - please allow 3 weeks for delivery from time of purchase
Australian customers - please allow 2 weeks for delivery from time of purchase
This mountain is extremely strong and could probably survive a brick being dropped on it. The expensive, high quality materials that I use is reflected in the price. However, my motto is "do it once, do it right"
The mountain is attached at 3 anchor points using Velcro tape.
Installation takes a matter of minutes and a complete set of instructions is included.
Cost US $65 (Free shipping)

1 (resized).JPG

#2299 3 years ago

That Skull Mountain looks like crap. Must go down as the most crappy WH20 mod ever!!!
YUK
Don't even get me started on the Orange Lock Targets.
While I'm at it, how about putting another none standard big arse washer on the lower Insanity Ramp Keeper plastic
On a positive note the White rubber under the screw mount for the Upper Ramp Switch Entry is a good idea.
If nothing else it reduces stress on the plastic ramp

Your miissing Mountain looks pretty good and is in good taste. Not something that I would do but at least it looks the part.
To be perfect the edges could be sharper, but that really is nit picking.
I hope you do well with them.

#2300 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hello White Water owners,
Is there anyone out there that could tell me what type of screw is used here? I am trying to stay as close to original as possible. I'm guessing it's a #6 Phillips flanged head screw, but I'm not positive. I need the size and length.
Thank you!

Looks like a new upper Mirco Playfield to me.
I'm not sure what size Screw it is but its the same size at the upper screws holding the Shooter Ramp to the Upper playfield.
That VUK wire ramp needs these because of the design. As you would already know the only thing holding that VUK Ramp is a single extended post extension in the VUK assembly, so it's needs some those bitching screws holding it to the upper playfield are key.
Do not use the smaller Hex screws. Williams overdid the power of the Coil for this VUK, hence the Beating the Upper playfield cops.
The vertical lifting stress as a result on this ramp is totally reliant on the 2 Screws holding it to the Upper Playfield.
BTW the Cliffy won't wont stop the divit damage it will only protect the clear coat and paint work.
If you want to protect the upper playfield you will need to depower the upper Coil by unwinding the Coil until you get the right power

With the mine kickout you can select the next coil size down. The Lock VUK is somewhere inbetween coil power so it needs to be done by unwinding to get just the right amount of force to launch the ball up without slamming the crap out of the upper playfield.

I have changed and adjusted both VUKs so they don't trash the Playfield's. It's not hard but it does seem to be rocket science for Williams.
No one can ever get a design perfect but WH20 seems to be lacking the fine details needed for longevity. In some cases this can be excused due to the reliance upon Company's need for sale of parts, but in this case it's just poor design.

It's the German's who have a passion for Pinball not America.
Look who makes 3d Translites, Hi Fi Sounds boards, Playfields, Color LCD Displays for this and other Pinball Machines.

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