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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Lhyrgoif
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There are 5266 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 106.
#2051 4 years ago

After searching for 2 years, finally joined the club. Some minor damage from shipping (Boulder shooter rod broke, a couple of dings in the decals) but plays great.

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#2052 4 years ago

L-5 is the best ROM in my opinion.

#2053 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

L-5 is the best ROM in my opinion.

I would agree if it weren't for the failure of the river class holdover. What I do is turn off the ball save so it's basically L-5 but the holdover works correctly.

#2054 4 years ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Where could you find that raft? Also, what is the newest/best ROM version?

I got the mini raft guys from here: http://amzn.to/1rv8vFI

Raft_(resized).jpg

-1
#2055 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

I would agree if it weren't for the failure of the river class holdover. What I do is turn off the ball save so it's basically L-5 but the holdover works correctly.

I prefer the challenge of the river class without the holdover. I've managed to get VJ 3 times on my pin using L-5. I know it's a software glitch, but I like it as it adds another level of difficulty. It also makes the Mystery challenge a lot more rewarding when you get that CLASS 6 RIVER.

#2056 4 years ago

I love this game, but there is one thing I can't figure out. If I light the locks, is there any way for me to progress and NOT activate multiball (delaying multiball). The thing is some of the raft targets to progress share the same shot as the lock. Any pointers?

#2057 4 years ago

That's a good point actually. If you're going for vacation jackpot you need your locks. Maybe there is a rom revision which rectifies it

#2058 4 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I got the mini raft guys from here: http://amzn.to/1rv8vFI

That is probably one of the best uses of models for a pinball machine I've even seen by a landslide (usually not one for mods), pun not intended. Great job!

#2059 4 years ago
Quoted from jonesjb:

I love this game, but there is one thing I can't figure out. If I light the locks, is there any way for me to progress and NOT activate multiball (delaying multiball). The thing is some of the raft targets to progress share the same shot as the lock. Any pointers?

I think you mean hazard targets. If the hazard target is lit inbetween the two locks and you have multball ready to go you need to avoid it. There are a few ways to progress. You can advance a raft through the boulder garden. You can re-light the bounce back. You can send the ball through the Distaster Drop loop. Any of these will advance the raft and switch up the hazard targets that are lit.

#2060 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I think you mean hazard targets. If the hazard target is lit inbetween the two locks and you have multball ready to go you need to avoid it. There are a few ways to progress. You can advance a raft through the boulder garden. You can re-light the bounce back. You can send the ball through the Distaster Drop loop. Any of these will advance the raft and switch up the hazard targets that are lit.

^This! It's not a bug in the code. Part of the strategy is not to get multi-ball too early. It's very common for me to end up trying to advance rafts without hitting the center shot because I've got 2 balls locks and the 3rd lock primed.

For Vacation Jackpot, you really want to try to get that on the first or second multi-ball because hitting multi-ball the third time is much more difficult because your lite-locks expire quickly. Frankly, I've never even been able to figure out exactly how lighting the locks works for the 3rd multi-ball. The lights will flash, then go solid, then go out. All I know is you need quick successive hits to both green targets to prime the lock and you don't have much time.

#2061 4 years ago

I just started this topics : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bigfoot-new-rules-for-whitewater-with-freewpc
I'm working with freewpc on new rules for whitewater.
It's a work in progress.. I'm looking for testers / feedback / help to get it finished

3 weeks later
#2062 4 years ago

Does anyone know if the LH6 home rom has a provision to change the whitewater multiball restart time? I feel like it should, since after a multiball, the game give the player 20 some seconds to restart the multiball--which in my opinion is hardly a challenge. I've dug through the menus, but I haven't found anything that I could find that would change that, unless I'm missing something else.

#2063 4 years ago

Does it have a restart time? I thought it just had last chance for jackpots if you don;t get any?
Sorry I've never missed jackpot so I don;t know

#2064 4 years ago

Hahaha, I'm a pretty lousy pinball player, so missed jackpots are a staple of my style.

But yea, it's got a restart. If you miss the jackpot, and drain 2 balls, it re-lights "no way out" for a multiball restart. Default is 20 seconds, apparently, which is WAYY too much time.

#2065 4 years ago

Agreed no matter where the ball is 20 is a lot.

#2066 4 years ago

Tech help. Shopping a wh20 for a friend. When the ball launches to upper pf on this one the Opto bracket is to the left of where it lands on Mini pf. It looks like it should be mounted to the right of where it lands Pics attached Used high end pins pic since his is beautiful

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#2067 4 years ago

That's right. The second picture shows the bracket in the proper place. It's wrong in the first pic.

Also, get a Cliffy protector for the damage under the VUK!

#2068 4 years ago

Thanks jam. Last dumb question. I don't see any holes In metal for Opto beam to reach each side. What am I missing ? There are no holes or openings in either metal guide

#2069 4 years ago

I can see on one side the ball guide is raised so beam goes under it bit the receiver ball guide is solid

#2070 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I can see on one side the ball guide is raised so beam goes under it bit the receiver ball guide is solid

Hmm, transmitter (inside guide) side and receiver (outside guide) side both have cutouts so the beam will go under on mine. Any chance you have a early serial number? Check to the right of your upper flipper. Is it blue there or yellow? I believe the early models may have used a different configuration there, maybe a microswitch but my memory is a bit hazy on this. I wonder if somebody retrofitted that opto there.

#2071 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Hmm, transmitter (inside guide) side and receiver (outside guide) side both have cutouts so the beam will go under on mine. Any chance you have a early serial number? Check to the right of your upper flipper. Is it blue there or yellow? I believe the early models may have used a different configuration there, maybe a microswitch but my memory is a bit hazy on this. I wonder if somebody retrofitted that opto there.

It's an opto on the ramp itself and it doesn't use the one on the upper playfield.

#2072 4 years ago

billsfanmd, check out post 1212 in this thread. It shows the early production style ramp with the optos attached directly to the ramp.

I bet you've got the early production and somebody replaced the ramps. Since the new ramp didn't have the tabs to attach the opto, they put that bracket in.

#2073 4 years ago

Thx. What is the switch number so I can look at where is usually is mounted. Thx

#2074 4 years ago

Jam. Thx. I looked at your pic on post 1223 that is where I am moving the Opto bracket. But there is no hole for the receiver Opto. Isn't this Opto bracket on all wh20 ? Don't think my ramp has Optos.

#2075 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Jam. Thx. I looked at your pic on post 1223 that is where I am moving the Opto bracket. But there is no hole for the receiver Opto. Isn't this Opto bracket on all wh20 ? Don't think my ramp has Optos.

I think you may have an early production White Water. One way to tell is to look at the upper playfield just to the right of (behind) the upper flipper. If it's yellow there, instead of blue, you have an early production game. One difference between the early production games and the later production games is how that opto at the switch behind Bigfoot is set up.

On the early production games, the optos were attached to the ramp as shown on the ramp to the right in post 1212 (page 25) of this thread. The later production-style ramp is shown on the left in that same picture (note the lack of optos attached to the ramp on the left). The later production models also have cut-outs in the ball guides behind bigfoot to allow for the updated opto placement so the beam can pass through. The early production models don't have these cutouts so the opto won't work in that spot.

So here's the thing, the reproduction ramps that you can buy for White Water are all modeled after the later-production (no opto) style ramp. My bet is that you have an early production model White Water. Somebody replaced the original ramp (with the optos attached) with the later-style reproduction ramp (no tabs to attach the optos). In doing so they no longer had a way to mount those optos in the original configuration. Therefore, they got a bracket from the later style model and put it in that unorthodox spot because it won't work on your model in the regular spot.

I think you have a few options. If the optos are working in that spot, you can leave them there. If you want to keep the game more original you can fashion a way to attach the optos to the reproduction ramp in a similar way to how they are shown in post 1212 (page 25). Or, you can try to tack down some of the new-style ball guides with the cutout for the opto beam and replace your original ones with those. The ball guides may be tough to find.

I'm not sure whether the placement of the opto before the VUK kickout on the early production models (instead of after the VUK kickout on the later models) is of any consequence. It's possible that later software relies on the opto being after the VUK but I've never heard of anyone saying that's a problem.

#2076 4 years ago

Looking for an excellent condition white water. PM me if anyone wants to sell.

#2077 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

I think you may have an early production White Water. One way to tell is to look at the upper playfield just to the right of (behind) the upper flipper. If it's yellow there, instead of blue, you have an early production game. One difference between the early production games and the later production games is how that opto at the switch behind Bigfoot is set up.
On the early production games, the optos were attached to the ramp as shown on the ramp to the right in post 1212 (page 25) of this thread. The later production-style ramp is shown on the left in that same picture (note the lack of optos attached to the ramp on the left). The later production models also have cut-outs in the ball guides behind bigfoot to allow for the updated opto placement so the beam can pass through. The early production models don't have these cutouts so the opto won't work in that spot.
So here's the thing, the reproduction ramps that you can buy for White Water are all modeled after the later-production (no opto) style ramp. My bet is that you have an early production model White Water. Somebody replaced the original ramp (with the optos attached) with the later-style reproduction ramp (no tabs to attach the optos). In doing so they no longer had a way to mount those optos in the original configuration. Therefore, they got a bracket from the later style model and put it in that unorthodox spot because it won't work on your model in the regular spot.
I think you have a few options. If the optos are working in that spot, you can leave them there. If you want to keep the game more original you can fashion a way to attach the optos to the reproduction ramp in a similar way to how they are shown in post 1212 (page 25). Or, you can try to tack down some of the new-style ball guides with the cutout for the opto beam and replace your original ones with those. The ball guides may be tough to find.
I'm not sure whether the placement of the opto before the VUK kickout on the early production models (instead of after the VUK kickout on the later models) is of any consequence. It's possible that later software relies on the opto being after the VUK but I've never heard of anyone saying that's a problem.

Jam thanks for explanation. Yes yellow on upper pf. Exactly what I thought. When the Op moved the opto it would never work because the is not opening for left side beam. He prob just did not care....This game is pretty rough. My only real option is to mount it to the right of the vuk and drill a nice 3/8 hole right at the beam location.

My question is did they update code? Seems it would roll past that opto every time ball enters upper pf from that vuk and then roll to the right and trigger it?

#2078 4 years ago

Personally, I would mount the optos to the ramp as it was originally. It should be petty easy to make something work. You may devalue the game if you drill through the ball guides. Perhaps somebody here can chime in on the code.

#2079 4 years ago

I"m still learning the rules on mine as I slowly fix issues and clean it up -- one thing that's bugging me though:

The bigfoot divertor activates every time I shoot that loop and diverts the ball to the whirlpool. I think only seen it not activate a couple times in the time I've had it -- but Bigfoot should only divert the ball to the whirlpool when it's lit right? When unlit, he shouldn't move the log and the ball should run straught down to the right flipper, correct?

Any ideas on fixing this or what the issue might be? I haven't looked too hard at it as I spent all morning troubleshooting other stuff.. but it doesn't seem right.

#2080 4 years ago

Does anyone happen to have a spare Boulder garden plastic they would be willing to sell? Part # 31-1726-9. If so, please PM.

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-WH2O31-1726-9

Thanks!

#2081 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I"m still learning the rules on mine as I slowly fix issues and clean it up -- one thing that's bugging me though:
The bigfoot divertor activates every time I shoot that loop and diverts the ball to the whirlpool. I think only seen it not activate a couple times in the time I've had it -- but Bigfoot should only divert the ball to the whirlpool when it's lit right? When unlit, he shouldn't move the log and the ball should run straught down to the right flipper, correct?
Any ideas on fixing this or what the issue might be? I haven't looked too hard at it as I spent all morning troubleshooting other stuff.. but it doesn't seem right.

No he diverts it every time lit or not unless you've activated big foot hot foot mode, in which case it will feed to the right flipper

#2082 4 years ago

Not in the new code!
Which I haven't tried............

#2083 4 years ago

White Water is in the house!

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#2084 4 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

No he diverts it every time lit or not unless you've activated big foot hot foot mode, in which case it will feed to the right flipper

So I guess I'm confused then -- is the whirlpool lit light just for whirlpool awards?

#2085 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

So I guess I'm confused then -- is the whirlpool lit light just for whirlpool awards?

That's right. Hit insanity falls to prime the Whirlpool awards. Hit the Whirlpool to get the award corresponding to the lit award in the boulder garden.

The only way Bigfoot doesn't divert the ball is if you get the "hotfoot" and his head starts spinning around. The idea is that you lit his foot on fire and he's distracted, and he doesn't divert the ball so you get to go through "Bigfoot's Cave".

#2086 4 years ago

Another quick question for anyone who might know. The kickback plunger broke, and I'm looking for a replacement on marco. The manual specifies part number A-13270.

Marco has these 2 available:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-13270

and

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767

In the latter's description, it says that it is compatible with the former's part number. Does it matter which one to get? For what it's worth, the one in my game that broke has a black plastic tip. Just curious to know if there is any meaningful difference to these two items.

#2087 4 years ago

Back in the club and this time I will never leave!!!! All chrome looks so nice on this example.

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#2088 4 years ago

Quick question.....I have a very nice example that I traded for years ago. Probably a solid 8/10....problem is it's missing the topper. What would be a fair price if on the block to sell? I'm thinking 3-3300.

#2089 4 years ago

3k seems fair.

#2090 4 years ago
Quoted from TomN:

Quick question.....I have a very nice example that I traded for years ago. Probably a solid 8/10....problem is it's missing the topper. What would be a fair price if on the block to sell? I'm thinking 3-3300.

Hard to say without pics. I have one that I'm contemplating selling (about $500 above the range you noted) - it has the topper though. Condition is subjective but I'd call mine a players condition machine .

Great game - love all the ramps .

#2091 4 years ago
Quoted from TomN:

I'm thinking 3-3300.

I think that's low. I'd buy it for $3K in a heartbeat! I think you could get $3500.

#2092 4 years ago

True...Here is a link to some pictures. It plays 100% I installed a new ramp around Bigfoot and a cliffy protector around the drop zone as an insurance policy...No real damage. Also, some well placed LED's throughout the pf. Not a huge fan of a full LED machine. I might be listing although I'm not 100% decided at this point. I've tried a lot to get a topper, but have had no luck as you can imagine. Might just go with a decal just to fill things in.

http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/mt199588/library/Whitewater

#2093 4 years ago

How hard are toppers to get these days? The dome is like $60. Replica waterfall avail?

#2094 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Replica waterfall avail?

No. An NOS one sold on eBay for $500 not long ago.

#2095 4 years ago

As stated darn near impossible to get. I've seen a few listings over the years, but prices are prohibitive. Even for ones that are faded and ripped. I have the dome and the stand. Also, need the lights and boards for controlling the chase lights. I'm guessing someone ripped it off at some point in its life. Although someone mentioned at one point it may never have had one. (Find that hard to believe)

#2096 4 years ago

Might not make a difference to some, but that game isn't the same without. It will definitely affect your market of interested purchasers. Nicest of all toppers, impossible to find, cost prohibitive if you can find it, and the translite doesn't even have the name of the pin on it.

I realize I'm just stating the obvious to this group.

#2097 4 years ago

I know you're correct. I think it's kind of silly to be honest though. How can a topper of all things have an effect on the value of a pin in such a profound way. I'm not arguing that it's not cool looking that's for sure. If you had a choice between a pin that's a little beat up with a topper and one that's cherry with no topper...Which one would most people choose?

#2098 4 years ago
Quoted from TomN:

I know you're correct. I think it's kind of silly to be honest though. How can a topper of all things have an effect on the value of a pin in such a profound way. I'm not arguing that it's not cool looking that's for sure. If you had a choice between a pin that's a little beat up with a topper and one that's cherry with no topper...Which one would most people choose?

On a whitewater, the one with the topper.

#2099 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

That's right. Hit insanity falls to prime the Whirlpool awards. Hit the Whirlpool to get the award corresponding to the lit award in the boulder garden.
The only way Bigfoot doesn't divert the ball is if you get the "hotfoot" and his head starts spinning around. The idea is that you lit his foot on fire and he's distracted, and he doesn't divert the ball so you get to go through "Bigfoot's Cave".

thanks for the info -- good to know & I like the explanation!

#2100 4 years ago

If you weren't bothered about the actual waterfall affect, you can buy the decal board, dome , chase light board and lamp board separately.

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