Quoted from yzfguy:Red is factory, but all us cool folks switch to blue.
I'll hang out over here with the red folks. You know, the people that use white GI lights and don't have a Bumble as their Bigfoot.
Quoted from yzfguy:Red is factory, but all us cool folks switch to blue.
I'll hang out over here with the red folks. You know, the people that use white GI lights and don't have a Bumble as their Bigfoot.
Uff blue switchers are the frikkin worst...those damn people!
I feel a long story aboot how the whirlpool should be blue because water is blue coming on...
I am a cross breed, I guess. I have blue flasher domes and whirlpool bulbs, but kept regular bulbs in the g.i.
Quoted from yzfguy:I am a cross breed, I guess. I have blue flasher domes and whirlpool bulbs, but kept regular bulbs in the g.i.
Did I purchase my WH2O from you via eBay back in 2011? It was kind of a project, came with decals, not yet installed...
Quoted from DocRotCod:Couple questions for my fellow wh20 owners:
I installed all new ramps and I have a slight ball hang behind Bigfoot where the lower to upper ramp meets the playfield. Part of it was I needed to bend the metal ball guide to meet with the wall of the plastic ramp. The other is the plastic ramp is higher than the wood playfield, but there is a lip right at the end of the ramp. Do others sand this lip down or do I need to leave this lip in place?
On the upper playfield, how far out should the flipper be when at rest? Someone came over and told me it was adjusted too far in.
Thanks!
I love this game
See my post #1815 on page 37 of this thread. I go into some good detail about how I ended up resolving this. It took me a long time to figure it all out.
I like blue LED on just the water ramps. Looks a lot better than the stock white lights and dumb red ones in the whirlpool.
Quoted from thewool:Wow that cab refresh is great work!!
May I also ask how you did it as mine is in a similar condition, how difficult was it to achieve that result?
Cheers.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Looks great mate. Did you air brush it?
Nah nothing that involved but my method could be considered a little controversial. I used a $16 pack of textas. Have to use a tissue to wipe over it when done to remove the stroke marks. If done right you can't tell and because it's somewhat transparent it allows the shading to come through. Not sure how well it will hold up over time but looks great IMO.
Certainly not the best method but definitely the cheapest. Took a few hours to do both sides.
Quoted from yzfguy:Not me, never sold one.
Sorry, had ya confused with somebody else. Old age kicking in
I can't stand the ice White Water but to each their own. I would personally never buy one that has been converted to winter.
The red LEDs for the whirlpool make sense because the whirlpool LED on the upper PF (sign) is also red. However, I've been thinking of using Comet's ICE blue for the whirlpool. Regular blue is too damn blue, but ice or light blue is not as drastic.
Quoted from Fifty:I can't stand the ice White Water but to each their own. I would personally never buy one that has been converted to winter.
The red LEDs for the whirlpool make sense because the whirlpool LED on the upper PF (sign) is also red. However, I've been thinking of using Comet's ICE blue for the whirlpool. Regular blue is too damn blue, but ice or light blue is not as drastic.
We did just that.
We have Comet's Ice blue under the whirlpool and in a few choice spots under the upper ramps. All the rest are cool white.
I think it looks great. Not overly blue but gets the water point across on the ramps and whirlpool.
The winter theme is so stupid,
Its a crime against pinball
its like converting an original donkey kong to a 2 player street fighter with a 16x9 lcd screen and light up buttons.
Quoted from Gruntis:Nah nothing that involved but my method could be considered a little controversial. I used a $16 pack of textas. Have to use a tissue to wipe over it when done to remove the stroke marks. If done right you can't tell and because it's somewhat transparent it allows the shading to come through. Not sure how well it will hold up over time but looks great IMO.
Certainly not the best method but definitely the cheapest. Took a few hours to do both sides.
Sorry for the ignorance, but what the heck are Textas??
PS Your touch up looks fabulous!
Quoted from Fifty:I can't stand the ice White Water but to each their own. I would personally never buy one that has been converted to winter.
The red LEDs for the whirlpool make sense because the whirlpool LED on the upper PF (sign) is also red. However, I've been thinking of using Comet's ICE blue for the whirlpool. Regular blue is too damn blue, but ice or light blue is not as drastic.
Here is the link to a short video I put up of the LEDs in my WH2O:
I'm sold on the ice blue in the whirlpool hole. Thanks for putting up the vid! You definitely need Herg's LED OCD board to smooth out the LEDs but overall I think it looks very nice. It's funny, but I have white LEDs under the RIVER letters and blue under the BIGFOOT targets right now. I bought the pin like this. I wasn't going to swap out the blue on BIGFOOT but after seeing your vid I definitely will. The white stands out much more. Thanks again!
Quoted from judremy:Here is the link to a short video I put up of the LEDs in my WH2O:
» YouTube video
What's going on on the back Boulder behind the whirlpool is lit sign? Mint looking game, I can't imagine that being white tape holding the boulder together?
LOL, lots of negative reaction to my icy cold White Water. No prob at all. I don't normally deviate from original when fixing up a game, but I played a couple of WH2O's about 5 years ago where this had been done and I thought they were pretty cool looking (no pun intended). So I decided to take the plunge (no pun intended). It was kind of a snowball effect (no pun intended). I mean, once you put in the icy white mountains, they look best lit from underneath with blue accents... and once you've done that, Bumble fits in better than Nord-Squatch. It doesn't sound right at all (white water rafting at the north pole?), but it looks pretty neat in person, particularly with low ambient lighting, and it's completely reversible. But yeah, all in the eye of the beholder. One thing that doesn't work out well is when you illuminate the waterfall with intense blue LEDs. That's way over the top (no pun intended). Stick with white incandescents there.
Never mind the haters Paul. Do what YOU like. It's your game afterall. Personally, I think it looks COOL!
Todd
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:LOL, lots of negative reaction to my icy cold White Water. No prob at all.
You know how we do in this club...just having some fun
Now if you'll excuse me I have to get some eye surgery
Quoted from sbmania:Sorry for the ignorance, but what the heck are Textas??
PS Your touch up looks fabulous!
Just an Australian way of saying permanent markers,like magic markers I think.
Quoted from yzfguy:What's going on on the back Boulder behind the whirlpool is lit sign? Mint looking game, I can't imagine that being white tape holding the boulder together?
Not sure what you are referring to.
I have a light strip in the back plugged into one of the sockets in the back right corner to light up the mountain more. Might be glare off the glass since I didn't take it off for the video. I did this video because I have seen some real gaudy light schemes. Game is not mind, but has a plastic playfield protector on both the main and upper playfields. I love it as it makes it shiny.
Quoted from Fifty:I'm sold on the ice blue in the whirlpool hole. Thanks for putting up the vid! You definitely need Herg's LED OCD board to smooth out the LEDs but overall I think it looks very nice. It's funny, but I have white LEDs under the RIVER letters and blue under the BIGFOOT targets right now. I bought the pin like this. I wasn't going to swap out the blue on BIGFOOT but after seeing your vid I definitely will. The white stands out much more. Thanks again!
I have the OCD board in my LOTR, but not one for WH2O as it doesn't bother me that much. I may get one someday. The LEDs behind the blue targets are blue flex heads and the ones UNDER the RIVER letters are actually cyan (they look more green IRL). I have never found a good color for the Bigfoot targets. Maybe Brown LEDs would work well?
Quoted from kidchrisso:I can't decide on doing inside art blades or mirror blades on my WH20. Anybody do the blue mirror blades???
Here is some art blades
Does anybody have an idea of a fair price for a nice condition original translite? Picked up the 3d one and I feel like kind of a hoarder holding onto the original.
Or should I hang on to it?
The machine itself is pretty nice with matching original boards and great PF. Cheers.
As a note of consideration.
Selling an "iceberg" WH20 is problematic.
Most collectors do not want the game. Neither do any reputable dealers. Essentially these type of modifications SIGNIFICANTLY devalue the machine as the amount of work to restore the factory specifications is not worth the time or expense.
There is a WH20 that has been sitting on CL for over 6+ months, obscenely priced I might add, exactly like these type of machines, with incomplete white powdercoating.
It looks terrible.
You cannot see the playfield at all.
My recommendation is don't do it, unless you intend to have this become a "cold deserted island" personal machine.
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Does anybody have an idea of a fair price for a nice condition original translite? Picked up the 3d one and I feel like kind of a hoarder holding onto the original.
Or should I hang on to it?
The machine itself is pretty nice with matching original boards and great PF. Cheers.
Hang it on your wall in a frame.
Playing this game again at CAX this weekend encouraged me to stay the course and wait patiently in line for a good example to join this club.
Please save a seat on the raft you lucky dogs.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:As a note of consideration.
Selling an "iceberg" WH20 is problematic.
Most collectors do not want the game. Neither do any reputable dealers. Essentially these type of modifications SIGNIFICANTLY devalue the machine as the amount of work to restore the factory specifications is not worth the time or expense.
There is a WH20 that has been sitting on CL for over 6+ months, obscenely priced I might add, exactly like these type of machines, with incomplete white powdercoating.
It looks terrible.
You cannot see the playfield at all.
My recommendation is don't do it, unless you intend to have this become a "cold deserted island" personal machine.
I disagree -- that wh2o has been sitting because it's way overpriced -- not so much because of the ice bath. It makes no sense but I do think it looks pretty cool actually. Plenty of players would buy the machine at a reasonable price -- not everyone is a collector or goes over each pin purchase with a magnifying glass or only buys stock games. Just don't think your adding $1000 of value by doing the white treatment though..
The same statements were made about EMs, early SS, and conversion kits both pinball and other coin operated devices for the past 50 years.
Covert the game to make it non-reversible, the owner/operator loses. We are not talking about rethemes, but the same basic results apply. Most of these games were junked later, and ultimately parted out unless they were exceptionally well done. Sometimes they were not even salvageable and dumper binned. That includes in many cases "creative" cabinet repaints.
Does anyone realize the number of upright games for example that were turned video poker machines? Extreme maybe, same concept.
The cost to restore in parts and labor is prohibitive. If an owner does not care, they should not complain later they cannot sell the machine. I get tired of pointing out multiple examples for justification, because I don't feel like arguing anymore. They was just the most obvious recent example. It was absolutely appallingly hideous and I know the owner.
If you want want something to be "collectable" don't massively mod the game in manner that makes indistinguishable from the original concept. This applies to every single hobby in existence.
Certainly don't expect a game to be worth $3K higher than NIB cost made in the last 5 years due to mods.
If you do not agree, no issues.
The secondary market compass points the direction.
There has been an increase in this hobby of collectors by an average of a +30% gain every year for the past 10 years. They don't want this crap, especially on a WH20 that has roughly only around 4500 left now after the original production. If an owner wants how we figure this out, ask me.
Quoted from Vino:Playing this game again at CAX this weekend encouraged me to stay the course and wait patiently in line for a good example to join this club.
Please save a seat on the raft you lucky dogs.
I played it too to see how it compaires to my own. Normally the game has three balls in it. The one at CAX had only two for some reason. Weird when there is a vendor selling balls cheap nearby.
Just checked Bay Area Amusement's site and they say they are in stock.
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-WH2O31-1726
Thanks,
The shipping to Ireland is robbery.
about 50 dollers.
I bought a set for another game from the states recently and it was $30
Quoted from pinballdork:I haven't seen anyone post these pin blades I got off Ebay a few years ago. I like them, the boulders blend blend into the stickers to add depth.
These are the same ones I've had for awhile too. I quite like them.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:If you want want something to be "collectable" don't massively mod the game in manner that makes indistinguishable from the original concept. This applies to every single hobby in existence.
Certainly don't expect a game to be worth $3K higher than NIB cost made in the last 5 years due to mods.
If you do not agree, no issues.
I do agree with this BK -- both these statements. I was just saying that you have your stock/collectible folks and you have your players folks.. I still think there's plenty of people that would buy the machine in white-out mode -- just not at the crazy asking price. Bring it down to regular Wh20 territory and I would have no problem buying it (if I didn't already have one). But yeah.. doing "restore" on it to ice-world and asking 7 or 8k as a collectible (or whatever it was listed at) is crazy.
Quoted from yzfguy:Still love my pingraffix blades
Me too. The trees make it stand out a bit more. Really goes well with the whole wilderness theme of the pin. Love it.
Don't forget to add the raft too!
Quoted from TKDalumni:Where could you find that raft? Also, what is the newest/best ROM version?
Home Rom - LH6
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