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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,268 posts
  • 479 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by yaksplat
  • Topic is favorited by 225 Pinsiders

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There are 5268 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 106.
#1951 4 years ago

Here's mine currently undergoing surgery. The cabinet almost fell apart being damaged many years back. I'm debating whether or not to do a decal job on it while I have her this torn down. I don't plan on restoring the playfield since I really like the way that it plays so I'm debating restoring the cabinet.

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#1952 4 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I really like the way that it plays so I'm debating restoring the cabinet.

My 2 ctns
I would vote no. You don't play the cab, and you wont even see it betwixed your 21 games....don;t worry aboot it

#1953 4 years ago

Looking at it over and over I'm leaning on leaving it original

#1954 4 years ago

I'm also looking to find the boulders that let a lot of light through them. I love the glow I see off the boulders on a lot of games but mine are so dark. I'm wondering if mine are repros .

10
#1955 4 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I'm also looking to find the boulders that let a lot of light through them. I love the glow I see off the boulders on a lot of games but mine are so dark. I'm wondering if mine are repros .

I'm working on making some rubberised boulders that will let light through and never break

#1956 4 years ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

I'm working on making some rubberised boulders that will let light through and never break

Great idea. You'll sell a ton. I'd be in for sure

1 week later
#1957 4 years ago
Quoted from branlon8:

Hi All,
I'm the proud owner of a Whitewater since about four weeks, it's such a cool game, I am, however, noticing that sometimes during multiball too many balls get into the upkicker and then the coil is not strong enough to kick more than one ball up onto the upper playfield. I've even had three balls in there during Whitewater muliball. Of course when it happens I need to stop the game and pull the balls out with a magnet. I have not yet made an archeological expedition under the upper playfield and I can't really tell from the manual if there is a mechanism which should prevent this and is maybe damaged. Has anybody had this and what was the fix ?

Before you bend any metal as per other suggestions, shine a flashlight down the upkicker hole and check the condition of the 'Ball Popper Cup' (Part Number 03-8561). I experienced this exact problem and it was due to the 4 teeth that hold the ball centred being worn/broken (see attached photo). This allows a second ball to sit across the edge of the cup, which then gets squeezed when the coil fires, slowing it and causing the ball that was in the cup to lose momentum and fail to complete the arc.

A new Ball Popper Cup with 4 nice teeth eliminated this problem 100%.

cup_(resized).jpg

#1958 4 years ago
Quoted from Gorgonzola:

Before you bend any metal as per other suggestions, shine a flashlight down the upkicker hole and check the condition of the 'Ball Popper Cup' (Part Number 03-8561). I experienced this exact problem and it was due to the 4 teeth that hold the ball centred being worn/broken (see attached photo). This allows a second ball to sit across the edge of the cup, which then gets squeezed when the coil fires, slowing it and causing the ball that was in the cup to lose momentum and fail to complete the arc.
A new Ball Popper Cup with 4 nice teeth eliminated this problem 100%.

Yes, cup your balls!

#1959 4 years ago
Quoted from Gorgonzola:

Before you bend any metal as per other suggestions, shine a flashlight down the upkicker hole and check the condition of the 'Ball Popper Cup' (Part Number 03-8561). I experienced this exact problem and it was due to the 4 teeth that hold the ball centred being worn/broken (see attached photo). This allows a second ball to sit across the edge of the cup, which then gets squeezed when the coil fires, slowing it and causing the ball that was in the cup to lose momentum and fail to complete the arc.
A new Ball Popper Cup with 4 nice teeth eliminated this problem 100%.

It's like I've heard this before.......

#1960 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

It's like I've heard this before.......

Except that you mentioned the wrong part and described a situation where the part is missing altogether.

I described a situation where the part itself is still present but may not appear to be broken to someone who has a quick glance or may not realise that the part is supposed to have 4 teeth. Additionally I included the part number as this is helpful for those that don't have the manuals or know where to find them.

I was also re-iterating that they should look at this aspect before worrying about the wire form as this failure is more likely.

What's the problem?

#1961 4 years ago

Wow, thank you very much. I didn't realise it was meant to have 4, I just checked mine and it only has 2 teeth one on either side ?

Quoted from Gorgonzola:

Before you bend any metal as per other suggestions, shine a flashlight down the upkicker hole and check the condition of the 'Ball Popper Cup' (Part Number 03-8561). I experienced this exact problem and it was due to the 4 teeth that hold the ball centred being worn/broken (see attached photo). This allows a second ball to sit across the edge of the cup, which then gets squeezed when the coil fires, slowing it and causing the ball that was in the cup to lose momentum and fail to complete the arc.
A new Ball Popper Cup with 4 nice teeth eliminated this problem 100%.

#1962 4 years ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Wow, thank you very much. I didn't realise it was meant to have 4, I just checked mine and it only has 2 teeth one on either side ?

If you look closely you'll probably see a line where the other two teeth have broken off, like the one shown in my photo.

This is what it should look like: http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/03-8561.html

The same part is also used for the Whirlpool eject assembly. I need to replace this one now too as it also has a broken tooth and as a result sometimes it fires poorly (slower and on a random angle). This is due to the armature assembly (shaft) rotating slightly each time it fires and causing a different outcome every time (like what you are seeing with your ball popper).

#1963 4 years ago
Quoted from Gorgonzola:

Except that you mentioned the wrong part and described a situation where the part is missing altogether.
I described a situation where the part itself is still present but may not appear to be broken to someone who has a quick glance or may not realise that the part is supposed to have 4 teeth. Additionally I included the part number as this is helpful for those that don't have the manuals or know where to find them.
I was also re-iterating that they should look at this aspect before worrying about the wire form as this failure is more likely.
What's the problem?

There is no problem. I was being a smart-ass.

#1964 4 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

Here's mine currently undergoing surgery. The cabinet almost fell apart being damaged many years back. I'm debating whether or not to do a decal job on it while I have her this torn down. I don't plan on restoring the playfield since I really like the way that it plays so I'm debating restoring the cabinet.

Cab still has good color in it ...

Maybe buy some decals and put them away for the future .
just a thought ..

#1965 4 years ago

Quick question for anyone who might know: What are the sizes of the post sleeves used in this game? I'd like to order a few colored ones, but I'm not sure what size to get.

#1966 4 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I got the mini raft guys from here: http://amzn.to/1rv8vFI

Those are pingraffix blades?

#1968 4 years ago

I decided to stupidly melt two of my ramps on the top rack of the dishwasher today. Gone are the Whirlpool ramp and the Upper to Lower ramp. May they rest in peace...

So it goes without saying that I am looking to buy. Before I buy new ones I thought I'd ask in here. Has anyone replaced any/all of their ramps and is looking to sell the old ones?

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#1969 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I decided to stupidly melt two of my ramps on the top rack of the dishwasher today. Gone are the Whirlpool ramp and the Upper to Lower ramp. May they rest in peace...
So it goes without saying that I am looking to buy. Before I buy new ones I thought I'd ask in here. Has anyone replaced any/all of their ramps and is looking to sell the old ones?

Wow. That sucks.
But they sure look clean.

#1970 4 years ago

I wish i could help out but my WH2O was a bit of a basket case as every ramp was broken..
when i purchased it ... i just wanted one at the time...
I have now replaced all the ramps and changed it out to the blue boulder mod

my Whirlpool ramp was not broken but was cut of short ...

#1971 4 years ago

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#1972 4 years ago

I think that James loflin sells the ramps.

#1973 4 years ago

They are now being sold by starship fantasy.

#1974 4 years ago

I believe I have both ramps that were melted, used, but in good shape, in my parts boxes.
I am going to be moving some things around in the next few weeks.
If I find them, the owner can have them for whatever shipping cost is and small pinball donation.

There is a lesson learned in this situation.
If you cannot control the heat of the dishwasher settings, it is best to flame polish them after scrubbing with Novus.
Don't put game plastics in the dishwasher either, only metal parts.
I have seen people put physical melt holes in the middle of plastics under the same circumstances.

v/r

-TBK

#1975 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

I believe I have both ramps that were melted, used, but in good shape, in my parts boxes.
I am going to be moving some things around in the next few weeks.
If I find them, the owner can have them for whatever shipping cost is and small pinball donation.
There is a lesson learned in this situation.
If you cannot control the heat of the dishwasher settings, it is best to flame polish them after scrubbing with Novus.
Don't put game plastics in the dishwasher either, only metal parts.
I have seen people put physical melt holes in the middle of plastics under the same circumstances.
v/r
-TBK

It was just a mistake on my part. I've used my dishwasher on many ramps prior to this. In my sleepless haze I pressed SMART WASH instead of the FAST WASH button. SMART WASH uses heat to dry, and FAST WASH doesn't. Costly mistake, but I don't blame my dishwasher. It's been good to me. Oh, and it did clean them well. They shone like crystal!

1 week later
#1976 4 years ago

I realise my post is a bit cryptic but don't want to reveal too much at this moment..

If there are some people here who play whitewater in visual pinball often, or who have an eprom programmer, and want to test some things ? Please contact me..

#1977 4 years ago
Quoted from aeneas:

I realise my post is a bit cryptic but don't want to reveal too much at this moment..
If there are some people here who play whitewater in visual pinball often, or who have an eprom programmer, and want to test some things ? Please contact me..

Deciding to redesign the code huh, Aeneas?
There were a few features that were excluded from the original prototyping back in the design period starting in 1992.
I remember some of them, but others were tied to physical features which did not make the cut to production after the engineers reconsolidated efforts with Dennis.
No doubt, wanting to keep the situation convert, in order to avoid useless squawking by license holders for copyright infringement.
Names excluded for obvious reasons.

"The bane of the pinball hobby."

#1978 4 years ago

Can someone tell me the length, width, and depth of the subway ramp. I know it's one of the few ramps currently in production and I'm considering modifying it for my DE Star Trek machine. I'm uncertain if the subway ramp will ever be reproduced for that machine.

Thanks

Shawn

#1979 4 years ago

Hi guys,

Could someone please take a look under their PF for me and tell me what type of plunger, link, and crank (pawl) you have? Specifically looking at the link. Is it a tapered link or not? The manual shows part number B-13882-L (not tapered) which looks like this on Marco;

http://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/A-15848-L/detail.jpg

So this is what I ordered, but I don't hear the plunger hitting the flipper stop (the flipper stop is p/n A-12111 which is what I also ordered).

The reason I'm confused is because on my right flipper I have this plunger and link;

http://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/B-10655-L/detail.JPG

It has a tapered link. I know operators use whatever parts they have handy in the toolbox, but the plunger with the tapered link is hitting the flipper stop. So it makes me wonder if I ordered the wrong parts.

Which one do you guys have on your pins?

#1980 4 years ago

Should you be able to hit the lost mine from the right flipper? Seems impossible on my machine

#1981 4 years ago

Very hard to do. I do not know of a repeatable shot for that. Just random luck for that shot.

#1982 4 years ago

Yeah, it's totally possible so long as you're not trying for it.

#1983 4 years ago

I have done it but not while trying.

#1984 4 years ago

Ok ill don't feel that bad then! Still sucks though

#1985 4 years ago

It's a sucker shot.

#1986 4 years ago

Couple questions for my fellow wh20 owners:

I installed all new ramps and I have a slight ball hang behind Bigfoot where the lower to upper ramp meets the playfield. Part of it was I needed to bend the metal ball guide to meet with the wall of the plastic ramp. The other is the plastic ramp is higher than the wood playfield, but there is a lip right at the end of the ramp. Do others sand this lip down or do I need to leave this lip in place?

On the upper playfield, how far out should the flipper be when at rest? Someone came over and told me it was adjusted too far in.

Thanks!

I love this game

#1987 4 years ago

The repro ramps tend to be a tad thicker than the originals. I used a small washer to act as a spacer and have heard of other solutions to this problem. A quick search might turn up other fixes. The flipper should be in a straight line with the metal guide.

#1988 4 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

The repro ramps tend to be a tad thicker than the originals. I used a small washer to act as a spacer and have heard of other solutions to this problem. A quick search might turn up other fixes. The flipper should be in a straight line with the metal guide.

Really? The hole in the upper playfield for the flipper alignment says different (I think). I originally had it lined up and the Insanity Falls ramp became very difficult.

#1989 4 years ago
Quoted from judremy:

Really? The hole in the upper playfield for the flipper alignment says different (I think). I originally had it lined up and the Insanity Falls ramp became very difficult.

Mine is this way but I know what you are saying. The hole is really just a guideline. The flipper should be inline with the metal guide.

1 week later
#1990 4 years ago

Hey guys,
Join the club recently. Cab was a bit faded and thought I'd try giving it a makeover. Turned out alright I think.

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#1991 4 years ago
Quoted from Gruntis:

Cab was a bit faded and thought I'd try giving it a makeover.

Nicely done. Enjoy Wh20,I have a love hate relationship with mine.

#1992 4 years ago

Looks great mate. Did you air brush it?

#1993 4 years ago

Joined the club for the second time. Gonna keep it this time.

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#1994 4 years ago

Welcome back Cobra! Now take those hideous blow (sic) lights out of there

EDIT: I meant blue obviously, but I'll let it stand as those lights do in fact blow

#1995 4 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Welcome back Cobra! Now take those hideous blow lights out of there

LOL, I was gonna say he playfield looks great......when I squint feom the led glare!

#1996 4 years ago

Wow that cab refresh is great work!!

May I also ask how you did it as mine is in a similar condition, how difficult was it to achieve that result?

Cheers.

#1997 4 years ago

I've seen some White Waters with blue flasher domes and some with red in this thread. Red is the factory colour right?

#1998 4 years ago

Red is factory, but all us cool folks switch to blue.

#1999 4 years ago
Quoted from Cobra:

Joined the club for the second time. Gonna keep it this time.

Christ, for a moment there I thought i was looking at my own game room!!

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#2000 4 years ago

...this was the first time sewing became part of my pinball skill set

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