New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,271 posts
  • 479 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by arcadenerd925
  • Topic is favorited by 225 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,467 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20201029_121252 (resized).jpg
20201029_121031 (resized).jpg
pop_area1 (resized).jpg
379B8A60-8E0E-4E96-86EA-B67BCC400F62 (resized).jpeg
20201013_184207 (resized).jpg
20201013_184727 (resized).jpg
16025890959781527975109406817687 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201006_182901023 (resized).jpg
920ABFAD-CD4A-48C4-9031-826D8B88FF94 (resized).jpeg
20200518_192741 (resized).jpg
PXL_20200927_221433962 (resized).jpg
FJIMG_20200919_234755 (resized).jpg
FJIMG_20200919_234746 (resized).jpg
FJIMG_20200919_234732 (resized).jpg
20200914_131258 (resized).jpg
DSC_1225 (resized).JPG

There are 5271 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 106.
#1551 4 years ago

Wow it was a blown fuse at F109. Had a slow blow 5a. Changed it out and the GI works perfectly. Thank for teaching me how to use my multimeter and testing fuses!

#1552 4 years ago

No problemo. The REAL thing we both learned, it to check the easy stuff first.

In honor of your fix I'm going to play whitewater now!

#1553 4 years ago

Now that the GI's fixed I was hoping someone can help me with the extra ball that keeps getting kicked out into the shooter lane. It usually happens 1 or two seconds after the first ball comes out. On ball one there never seems to be an issue but on ball 2 or any ball kicking out into the shooter lane due to a lock, a second ball usually kicks out. I have tested the switches for the troughs(78,77, 76) and also the shooter lane(53). All seem to be working properly when I use my finger or a ball.

Anyone experienced this or have a suggestion?

TheLaw - maybe you can help solve this one too?

Thanks in advance

Pete

17
#1554 4 years ago

I've been shopping all week. Winners, Home Sense, Dollarama, Pet Smart, Fabricland, Michael's you name it, I've been there. I've been to each of these stores in multiple locations around Ottawa. What have I been shopping for you ask? Fur. Yep, fur. The Bigfoot on my White Water is missing a chunk of fur on the back of his head. It's supposed to cover the screw that allows you to detach the head from the body. Replacement heads are available at the usual vendors but all of them are furless.

I've been to all of these stores and come up short. The colour and texture of the fur has been EXTREMELY difficult to match. Then yesterday a breakthrough! I found it! A squirrel. A squirrel squeak-toy for dogs that is. I found it at Pet Smart in the woodland creatures section. Apparently woodland creatures have fur that is a best match for Bigfoot. Makes sense. So I coughed up $13 to Martha Stewart and headed home.

Now when I get home I can't show my kids the squirrel. If they see it, and they knew what I was going to do to it, they'd cry. So I have to wait until 8PM to do my nasty work. Kids to bed, finally... Out come the scissors. First thing to go is the wadding and non-fur materials like the tail.
squirrel guts

Inside out it goes and out comes the stitch ripper. This is going to take a while... While I'm sitting on the couch my wife comes in and sits with me and starts to knit herself a scarf. She doesn't even question what I'm doing. She clearly knows I'm insane and does not want to step into my world.
Sorry about the photo of my crotch!

I finally pull out all of the stitching and separate the pieces of fur that I'm going to use. The colour and texture are a very close match. The only thing that is off is the sheen, but 20+ years of sitting in an arcade/garage/warehouse under the sun/fluorescents will do that to fur. In the picture below I've included the original Bigfoot fur. Are you able to tell which is the original? Probably. I managed to get quite a bit of fur off the squirrel, more than I expected. This is good as I may have to replace all of the fur on the Bigfoot body to get everything to match properly.
skinned

Here are some progress pics. First I scalped him and cleaned off all the residual glue from 20+ years ago. Then I started putting on the new fur with new glue. I had to do a little bit at a time and then tie rubber bands around the head until the glue dried. Gluing the fur onto the head isn't so bad until you get close to finished. You have to cut and shape as you go. It's like wrapping an orange in paper. At first it's easy because you have the whole orange to work with, but as you work your way up to the top or bottom all the paper starts to get bunched up.
I'm losing my head

Typical Saturday night at my house

Here are some finished pics. I'm very happy with how this turned out.
Ta dah!

20160228_104515_(resized).jpg

20160228_104521_(resized).jpg

BTW, I re-painted his beard, eyebrows, mustache, teeth and eyes as well. Here's the before and after paint shots;
bigfoot_(resized).png

In game photos;
The money shot

One happy owner

#1555 4 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

TheLaw - maybe you can help solve this one too?

Are you sure there are only 3 balls in the machine? Weird things like this will happen with too many balls.

Other than that I would try tweaking the switch in the shooter lane. Just bend it around a little to get it sticking up more to make sure it's making contact. give that a try first

#1556 4 years ago

Yes there are only 3 balls in the pin. I have confirmed that the switch in the shooter lane definitely works.

It's strange, it never kicks out a ball on ball 1. Only on ball 2, ball 3 or after a lock.

#1557 4 years ago

**never kicks out a second ball

#1558 4 years ago

Jesus I know I've had this issue in the past. All I remember is rechecking all the connections to the trough switches, & shooter lane switch. That's all I remember. So if that doesn't work maybe someone else can chime in?

#1559 4 years ago

Have the balls ever been in another game?
They might be magnetised

#1560 4 years ago

I will try putting new balls in when I get home and report back.

#1561 4 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Now that the GI's fixed I was hoping someone can help me with the extra ball that keeps getting kicked out into the shooter lane. It usually happens 1 or two seconds after the first ball comes out. On ball one there never seems to be an issue but on ball 2 or any ball kicking out into the shooter lane due to a lock, a second ball usually kicks out. I have tested the switches for the troughs(78,77, 76) and also the shooter lane(53). All seem to be working properly when I use my finger or a ball.
Anyone experienced this or have a suggestion?
TheLaw - maybe you can help solve this one too?
Thanks in advance
Pete

Pete,

Check your switches (with a ball) in the lock area. A flakey or bad switch in the lock area will also cause similar problems.

#1562 4 years ago

Ok I just put 3 brand new pinballs into the game. Same results. It's definitely not the balls.

There is no issue when there is 0 balls locked. If I'm on ball one and I drain, ball 2 only pops out one ball. Same thing with ball 2. If I drain and ball 3 is coming, it only kicks out one ball.

When there is one or two balls locked, the next ball to kick out in the shooter lane always kicks out a second ball. I also found that if I get the whirlpool challenge and there is one ball sitting at the lost mine waiting to be kicked out, it kicks out two balls in the shooter lane.

i tested all of the opto's in the locks (switches 63,64,65) and everything works Fine. They are normally closed and open when the ball is sitting there.

The same goes for the whirlpool popper( switch 61).

I'm stuck and wondering what else I can check.

Any suggestions?

#1563 4 years ago

Are any of the switches in the ball trough registering as closed when there is no ball there? You might want to try lighting pounding the playfield to see if they are falsely registering sometimes.

#1564 4 years ago

Ok so I went in to check the trough switches again. It seems that the center trough switch was sometimes getting stuck and therefore always closed. This could be my problem. After fixing that the leftmost switch stopped working and wasn't registering in the switch edge test. All solder connections looked good so I ordered a few microswitches. Will replace all of those and report back.

#1565 4 years ago

Ok so as I dig deeper into this issue I have noticed that a bunch of switches aren't working now. 18, 28, 38, 48 , 58, 68, 78. The common theme here is obviously a row is out. The WHT GRY is the issue. How do I go and trouble shoot a complete row in the switch column? I checked the connection at the board and that seems good. Doesn't seem to be an issue there. What's the next step to trouble shoot?

Thanks.

#1566 4 years ago

Pinwiki has very good steps for diagnosing switch matrix issues, try to follow those steps.

First determine whether it is a board issue or play field issue by following their steps.

#1567 4 years ago

Have you messed with board to board ribbon cables? I had one off by one pin and a bunch of switches went wonky. Make sure they are all on correctly and firmly.

#1568 4 years ago

Ok so I tested continuity from the connector at the MPU board (J208-9 wire) to the first switch on the matrix (18). Continuity is good there. I also tested continuity to a switch in the middle of the chain (58) and that is good. What would the next step be here ? Does this sound like the issue might be with the board and not the wires?

#1569 4 years ago

Update. Just tested continuity from the first switch 18 to the last switch 78. Solid connection.

Does this sound like I have an MPU board problem?

#1570 4 years ago

Do the jumper test between the column & row connectors as described on pinwiki:

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Problems

4.20.3 Switch Matrix Problems

Isolate the problem to the MPU or to the game wiring/diodes/switches

#1571 4 years ago

Ok so I tried the jumper test. Everything works perfectly except for when I'm on J209 pin 9. If I'm connected there and touch any pin from J207, nothing happens. So I guess we have a board issue?

#1572 4 years ago

Do you have a logic probe?

#1573 4 years ago

I do not. What kind and brand should I get? Is this something I will need to test the MPU board out?

#1574 4 years ago

White Water was my first game. A lot has happened in three years, since I got my first pinball machine. Lots of inn and outs. But there is just something special about your first machine. Especially if it's named White Water.

So glad that I decided to have it fixed up, instead of selling it.

It has been away for more than a year.(almost two)

Since then it has gotten a new playfield, color dmd, new ramps, new targets, new decals and leds.

Just a few days ago I got confirmation that a friend agreed to swap my repro topper with an original working one for 100$.

Tomorrow it will be back in my living room, where it belongs. Finished and ready to be appreciated again.

Feeling a bit sentimental and happy right now.

White Water rules

#1575 4 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

I do not. What kind and brand should I get? Is this something I will need to test the MPU board out?

Hmm, since it is not detecting any column strobes on J209-9 then I guess you should test for continuity from pin 8 on U19 to that pin. Look at the diagram on pinwiki, there is a diode D10 and resistor R65 along that path.

I tried jumpering to that pin on mine and switches on the bottom row closed.

#1576 4 years ago
Quoted from karl:

White Water was my first game. A lot has happened in three years, since I got my first pinball machine. Lots of inn and outs. But there is just something special about your first machine. Especially if it's named White Water.
So glad that I decided to have it fixed up, instead of selling it.
It has been away for more than a year.(almost two)
Since then it has gotten a new playfield, color dmd, new ramps, new targets, new decals and leds.
Just a few days ago I got confirmation that a friend agreed to swap my repro topper with an original working one for 100$.
Tomorrow it will be back in my living room, where it belongs. Finished and ready to be appreciated again.
Feeling a bit sentimental and happy right now.
White Water rules

Amen brother, enjoy your game.

#1577 4 years ago

So I tested for continuity from j209-9 to U19-7. The meter didn't beep but showed some numbers(1944)on the screen. Does that mean there is continuity but it didn't beep like normal because there is a diode/resistor along the path?

If I touched another pin on the u19 it would go back to the reading of 1. If I went back to U19-7 it would show a number like 1944 but no beep. Hope that makes sense.

#1578 4 years ago

Getting beyond my skill to help... pinballrehab.com has some instructions on testing using a logic probe when an entire row is out. Might want to start a new topic to get more experienced help!

#1579 4 years ago

Thanks. I will give that a shot.

#1580 4 years ago

Could someone tell me what color wires they have runing to the hot foot bigfoot, disaster drop, and rapids ramp main switches. Pretty much the 7 column 71, 73, 74, 75.
I'm wiring up a game and some of the pieces I have don't seem to match the manual. I wonder if there's a typo.
Thanks!

#1581 4 years ago

Anybody know where I can buy this kayaker ramp mod

image_(resized).jpeg

#1582 4 years ago

The manuals have been known to have lots of errors.

#1583 4 years ago

Pmaino, look for a cold solder joint at j209-9.
Is j208 used on this game?

#1584 4 years ago

Just picked up a White Water last night, set it up and love it! Everything works great except I notice when the balls get ejected to the top play field they take a bit to roll around to the upper flipper. Isn't this play field supposed to be set at 6.5 deg? Should it be higher? Anyone else have this issue?

#1585 4 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

Just picked up a White Water last night, set it up and love it! Everything works great except I notice when the balls get ejected to the top play field they take a bit to roll around to the upper flipper. Isn't this play field supposed to be set at 6.5 deg? Should it be higher? Anyone else have this issue?

If I'm understanding correctly, it may be due to backspin. Adding a few extra rubbers should fix it (like this): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stuck-ball-on-white-water-above-vuk-common#post-2521828

#1586 4 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

Just picked up a White Water last night, set it up and love it! Everything works great except I notice when the balls get ejected to the top play field they take a bit to roll around to the upper flipper. Isn't this play field supposed to be set at 6.5 deg? Should it be higher? Anyone else have this issue?

Before messing with rubbers on your wireform (ayo), check to make sure the wireform is installed correctly. There is a set-hole all the way down in the top ball trough where you need to set the wireform (I'm talking lower playfield here, just look down in the hole next to bigfoot and you should see where you need to set the wireform). Then make sure your wireform is firmly attached to the upper playfield. If you do this and it's still backspinning there are a few other things you can try before doing the more unorthodox rubber bumper fix.

Also, if you don't have a Cliffy protector back there where the ball kicks out you should get one now.

#1587 4 years ago

I have the Cliffy protector. Wireform is installed correctly I believe.

#1588 4 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I have the Cliffy protector. Wireform is installed correctly I believe.

Backspin is due to the metal protector. If you install the rubbers around the exit, it removes the backspin. I added a larger rubber around the outside of the exit to to hold the smaller rubbers from spinning and the balls come directly down the flipper.

#1589 4 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I have the Cliffy protector. Wireform is installed correctly I believe.

If you've verified the set wire is in the set-hole in the ball trough, one more thing you can try is adding washers under the TOP wire-loop (the one furthest from Big foot) where the wireform connects to the upper-playfield (put the washers between the playfield and the underside of the loop where the wireform attaches to raise that side slightly.)

I learned this trick because I had a broken weld on a wireform once and the "fix" for it ended up raising that side of the wireform by several millimeters. Consequently, raising that side reduced the backspin enough to correct any issues with the kickout. I've since replaced with another wireform and that one works fine with no modification but I had to torque the wireform to make it fit in the sethole which gave it a similar tilt to my previous fix. Anyway, this makes me hypothesize that the backspin may be caused by the shape/angle of the wireform.

Your mileage may vary with the above method (my evidence is merely anecdotal) but if you're trying to avoid the rubber post-bumper fix (which DOES work, but also looks kind of ugly), then you might try the washers as a last ditch effort before doing the rubber fix. Or, you you don't care and just want the spinning to stop them just go straight to the rubber post bumpers. That also takes some tweaking to get the spin to stop.

#1590 4 years ago

Thanks for the help everyone. I will try some of the suggestions and see what works best.

#1591 4 years ago

Hi,
I've got some questions:

What tricks have you guys come up with to keep the hidden portions of the playfield clean, like the boulder garden loop? I was thinking a flexible wand with a microfiber cloth end...

Who's powdercoated their machine? I'm debating on a color, I was thinking of going with a metallic yellow that would match the Williams logo on the side of the back box. What colors do you think work for this game?

#1592 4 years ago

I like mine with the original stainless look.

#1593 4 years ago

I like black. I like it on all my games.

image_(resized).jpeg

#1594 4 years ago

Wow, Black looks much better than I would have thought. Nice job!

#1595 4 years ago
Quoted from jrockne:

Hi,

Who's powdercoated their machine? I'm debating on a color, I was thinking of going with a metallic yellow that would match the Williams logo on the side of the back box. What colors do you think work for this game?

Chrome

01_White_Water_(resized).jpg

#1596 4 years ago

That is one nice looking White Water! It goes well with the chrome blades too.
I don't know that I would want to catch my reflection in that finish though, it would probably scare me, and I'd lose my ball...

#1597 4 years ago

Ok so I just got my White Water and I noticed something odd. When I shoot into the Lost Mine for the first time it always shows that already have the "Flash Light" and I gain the Map. So it only takes two shots into the Lost Mine to get the Gold Rush mode? I know this Pin has the Home Roms in it too. I tried to do a factory reset but this still happens if I shut the game off and turn it back on. Any ideas on how to fix this? Is this a Home Rom thing?

#1598 4 years ago

I am using ROM L5. Mine works the same way. This is a factory setting. I believe you can set it so you have to get all 3 before Gold Rush mode kicks in under the Feature Adjustments but this is not a default setting.

#1599 4 years ago

Wow, Jamburglar, really like the look of your game. Where did you send off to get chromed and (if you dont mind) what did it cost?

I am planning my WH20 restore and i really like chromed rails and lockdown bar. But will probably skip the coin door. I am also planning to build up enough courage to do my cabinet decals.

#1600 4 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Wow, Jamburglar, really like the look of your game. Where did you send off to get chromed and (if you dont mind) what did it cost?
I am planning my WH20 restore and i really like chromed rails and lockdown bar. But will probably skip the coin door. I am also planning to build up enough courage to do my cabinet decals.

The coin door was done by Mike Chestnut but I'm not sure about the rest. I've had two White Waters and, oddly enough, both of them had chrome when I bought them. The the first one I bought had the lock-down bar and coin door done by Mike. The second one I bought was really nice, fully chromed, but had a generic, chrome coin door (no coin shoots or anything). When I sold the first one I swapped the original chromed coindoor over to the nicer machine because I couldn't bear to let it go. If I remember right the guy who sold me the first one said it was $300 for the coindoor.

I agree it looks awesome but I'm not sure I could ever bring myself to pay to have all the parts chromed. I imagine it's expensive to chrome everything (legs, coindoor, lockdown, rails, and backbox trim.)

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 9.95
$ 19.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
There are 5271 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 106.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside