(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by lrosent345
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jam_burglar.
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262 posts in this topic match your search for posts by jam_burglar. You are on page 2 of 2.
#4793 4 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Not in the club yet but thinking I should be. I've read on several occasions that the whole ramp-a-thon on this game is basically a nightmare to work with (when cleaning /servicing below) and want your oppinions on it.
I have played the game and like it quite a lot, just not sure I want it at home if its a bitch to work with. So honestly, how bad is it to service and keep in good shape?
Also worried about the mountain plastics breaking as those seem hard to get.

It's going to take you a few hours to break down the game for a thorough cleaning. How often you need to do that is probably more of a personal preference. The thing is, you really only need to do a full breakdown every once in a while. Most of the game can be reached by removing the glass. I only to a full tear-down every 2 years or so.

There are a few things you can do to save yourself a lot of hassle.

1. Label all of the under-playfield connectors you need to disconnect to do your teardown. Take your time and do it right the first time. This is going to take an extra hour or so but it will save you a lot of time in the future. I used numbered stickers from the electronics section of Lowes and it helps me find the connectors (they can get lost in the wires if you're not careful and you'll forget to re-connect them.)

2. Keep organized. I lay out a big board next to the game (about the size of a playfield) and everything that comes off the game goes in the same spot on the board as it would with the playfield, with the screws all in in same places. There are lots of different sized screws so keep them organized. The only thing is, you have to PROTECT THIS BOARD FROM DISRUPTION. If your toddler or cats gets to it you're in for a lot of work. Getting the screws right would be a nightmare.

3. Pay really close attention to the order in which you remove things and follow that reverse order when you re-assemble. Take a ton of pictures. Again this takes a lot of time the first time but saves you time in subsequent breakdowns. The ramps are a little like a puzzle and when re-assembled correctly they fit together nicely. If it's not fitting right, chances are you did something wrong. Being methodical really pays off.

4. That pay extra attention to the Whirlpool. That long screw spacer under the whirlpool is REALLY important. If you aren't careful about putting that spacer back before you re-install you'll screw up through the playfield. I've seen this on quite a few Whitewaters. In fact, take detailed pictures of that whole under-whirlpool area before you start your work.

5. Replace your rubbers when you break down for cleaning.

6. Don't let the game sit un-assembled for long. You'll forget what you did during disassembly and it will take you longer to re-assemble. Plus, there's more chance that you disrupt your organized parts.

Those are the tips I can think of off the top of my head.

Another thing I'd recommend if you have a nice game is to use protectors. I have no mylar on my game except for the clear protector for the Lost Mine kickout. That's a really key area to protect. The Cliffy under the VUK is absolutely essential. The other big areas are the inlane drops from the ramps. Wear in those inlane-switch slots might be the best way to tell how much play a game has seen. I use the Cliffy metal protectors and some clear, cling vinyl on the right inlane to prevent damage there and it works great. The other place I use clear, cling-vinyl is the whole area to the right of Bigfoot where the ball drops from your plunge. This is a pretty heavy wear area, and very tough to keep clean. The vinyl protects your playfield, is easy to clean, and easy to replace if you need it. The Manits protectors for the green targets depend on how much wear your game has in that area. Mine has held up really well but I check them every time I clean and make sure the screws are nice an tight.

#4797 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Good details. Labeling connects is extremely helpful. WH20 has a ton of them going to upper pf. I used blue painters tape and a sharpie to note where it goes. You could just make marks on the connectors but I find the blue tape makes it easy to find any loose connectors you forgot to connect.
I don't think you need to store all the parts out like that. Good pictures and bags for hardware work great for me. I recycle bags from parts orders like leds and write notes on them using a sharpie. Label what part they go to and any specific information like where the long screw goes. If you label them well then it doesn't matter if they get mixed up. I then store all the parts safely out of the way so they don't get knocked off something or stepped on. Take pictures of every step of disassembly at different angles. Never hurts to take more pics and get close ups. I've encountered games that were not put together correctly so if something doesn't seem right, look up pictures online.
BTW - what is the clear protector for the mine kickout? Do you mean mylar?

Yep. I think that's the only mylar on mine.

#4839 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

What kind of bulbs are under the whirlpool assembly? Has anyone done anything interesting with these bulbs for LEDs?
Currently, I am alternating cool white and blue, but I'd like to change it to a light blue or just cool white. All the same color, or alternating?

The problem with LEDs in applications like that is they can really mess up some of the chasing effect due to the instant "on/off". The LED and GI OCD add-on boards address this issue with most of the game's lighting but I don't think these add-on boards will affect the whirlpool lights. I vaguely remember putting LEDs in mine but then switched them back to incandescent bulbs.

#4847 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

i'm about to install an led-ocd board in my game, but my whirlpool lights are still incandescent bulbs. can anyone confirm if these operate independent of the ledocd board.
Edit: I spoke to LEDOCD people, the whirlpool lights should be leds, not incandescents. Takes 5 minutes to change them.

Sweet. For some reason I remember those not being on the 'map" of LEDs for the board. I'll have to revisit.

#4865 3 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

I'd like to see a home rom with the ability to turn off freeplay. I'm a big fan of tokens, but I really like LH6

Me too. I'd like to be able to turn off the game over music too.

2 weeks later
#4922 3 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

I didn't put the ramps in myself, the person I bought it from did that. I did do some light taking apart in the back area for adjusting, so I can say that the ramps seem to be a pretty damn good fit. With the cliffy protector installed at the ball eject drop, I was occasionally getting a stuck ball from a soft plunge between where the spine chiller ramp meets the upper play field. After some minor adjusting it seems to be okay.

If it this issue shows up again, search this thread. I have some posts on fixing it. Mine has not gotten stuck there for years now.

2 weeks later
#4975 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Bump
Noone want to chip in on their flipper coil experience for this game?!

I have the correct coils and my game is fine. I would say if the game is getting damages then something is off somewhere.

1 month later
#5095 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Alright club, I could use another pair of eyes on this issue. I am wrapping up my restoration and I am finding that when whirlpool is lit, I am getting phantom whirlpool mode starts.
Some things to note:
- When I get a phantom whirlpool mode start, the big foot diverter does not fire. So I feel like that rules out both switches associated with the upper whirlpool ramp.
- The above lead me to wonder if the issue is where the ball drops into the subway and trips the opto. Upon inspection, the metal piece where the opto is attached seems to not be very secure, so I used a zip tie to better hold it in place:
[quoted image]
However, the issue still persisted. I did some more play testing and found that hitting it in the pops and the slings seemed to draw the most phantom whirlpool mode starts.
Next, I unplugged the above noted opto and play tested again. The issue stopped.
Dirty opto? This thing did sit in my parts bin for a month in the garage.
Let me know if there is anything else I should consider. Will try cleaning them tomorrow.

Agree with TheLaw that it's probably an opto. You may need to get into some switch matrix analysis to really figure it out. Sometimes issues will only present themselves when multiple switches are activated at the same time and they can be hard to diagnose unless you figure out the matrix and do some meticulous testing. I also note that optos can have intermittent failures, which can make things extra frustrating.

#5106 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I spoke too soon, i thought it was fine because I forgot to plug it in, lol. I also read your thread regarding a similar issue. I am going to do some further troubleshooting and may just start a thread so I dont spam the club over the next week.

All I can say is take your time and work methodically. It took me a lot of work. I even sent my boards off for servicing (glad I did but it was not a PCB problem). In the end it was good old logic and process of elimination that got it done. Satisfying fix though!

1 week later
#5150 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

When I bought my WH2O it also came with a set of new boulders, they all had the same problem as many others have pointed out, they are painted way to dark and differ quite a bit from the original plastics. I knew I had read about someone using liquid to remove some paint in an old post somewhere, so I decided to test that out myself.
I took some different liquids on a rag of cloth (one at a time ofc) and swiped on a boulder until I found something that worked. Unfortunately I cannot remember exactly what liquid worked best (this was a few months ago) but I think it's what we in Sweden calls "T-Röd", an Ethanol based liquid. I initially tried to apply the liquid using a brush but it didn't work that good, the friction from the cloth was needed to get the color off properly.
New untouched boulder, looks like a dog turd:
[quoted image]
"Fixed" boulder, much better:
[quoted image]
New untouched:
[quoted image]
"Fixed":
[quoted image]
Rags after moderate wiping, see all that brown paint I removed. I could have continued but I was afraid of removing too much paint so stopped when I thought it was good.
[quoted image]
As the last step I washed the boulders with tap water for a few seconds to remove any remaining liquid; not sure if needed but can never be too careful. Now the replaced boulders match the other original ones much better (not a perfect match but much closer anyway) and it took maybe 30 minutes in total.

Much better!

2 weeks later
#5184 3 years ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

Hi all!
I was replacing my sling plastics today and I noticed the right side plastic sling I got from Marcos is not the same as what was originally in my WW. It's missing the "rounded" part at the top (circled in red). I thought it got damaged during shipping, but the stickers that I peeled off were cut perfectly. Anyone know where I can buy one that is shaped like the original?
Thx!
[quoted image]

I think there were variations even in the originals. I want to say the SP playfield had one type and LS had another but don't quote me on that.

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