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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 11 days ago by Lhyrgoif
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There are 5266 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 106.
#1251 5 years ago

Cash in hand - ready to buy a Whitewater... Let me know if anyone wants to sell.

#1252 5 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

Try reseating the small ribbon cable that connects the power board to the cpu.

Before I do this, what do you think it will correct?

#1253 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Before I do this, what do you think it will correct?

I had a similar problem and a new ribbon fixed it.

#1254 5 years ago

I put the game into switch edge test mode. Then I covered up the optos in the VUK. 63 registered, 65 registered, but 64 did not. Looks like a bad opto. I don't have any spares so I'll try reflowing the solder on the receiver. The transmitter looks fine as I can see the purple glow through my phone camera.

#1255 5 years ago

Since I didn't have any receiver optos I borrowed one from the subway under the whirlpool and swapped out the one in my upper PF VUK. Then I repeated the switch edge test. Switch 63 made an audible "bing" when I covered up the receiver. Switch 65 also made an audible "bing". But when I cover up switch 64, there was no audible "bing".

So I busted my DMM again. 12VDC+ on each of the receiver test points. I cover the receiver up and voltage drops to 0. The opto pair that makes up switch 64 seems to be working properly. Hmm...

So I go into Single Switch Test. 63 is closed, 64 is open, 65 is closed. 63 and 65 change to open when I cover the optos up. 64 never changes. Transmitter opto???

What does "Switch Levels" do?

#1256 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Oh, and I did a TEST... looks like I have a series of switches not working. 34, 44, 54, and 74 reported errors. This shouldn't be too difficult to fix as it's probably all related to one problem.

You need to examine the wiring at each of the switches on row 4 of the switch matrix. There's probably a broken wire at one of them.

Refer to the manual or the switch matrix I posted here.

#1257 5 years ago
Quoted from mot:

You need to examine the wiring at each of the switches on row 4 of the switch matrix. There's probably a broken wire at one of them.
Refer to the manual or the switch matrix I posted here.

I think you are right. It can't be a coincidence that I'm seeing TEST errors on 34, 44, 54 and 74. These are all in the same matrix row. The opto I'm having problems with is 64 so that fit's nicely into the pattern as well since it's in the same matrix row too (34, 44, 54, 64, 74).

Time to start tracing wires!

#1258 5 years ago

VDC on the "I" (switch 34) only measures in at 7VDC. The other letters in RIVER are measuring in at 12VDC. I'm losing 5VDC somewhere...

#1259 5 years ago

Try disconnecting the opto board under the playfield and retesting those row 4 switches.

#1260 5 years ago
Quoted from mot:

Try disconnecting the opto board under the playfield and retesting those row 4 switches.

The 7-opto board? Is this what you mean? I disconnected this. The row 4 switches are still a no go.

Update...

Since the TEST reported issues with pretty much every switch in row 4, I decided to look at the CPU connector. According to the switch matrix the white/yellow wire connects to J209-4. I figure I might as well start at the start right? So I take a look at the CPU board only to discover it's an aftermarket board by Rottendog. The molex connector to J209-4 is a hack. I pull the brown molex connector off the board only to have the orange wire (J209-9) break in my hands. J209-9 controls row 8 so I'm guessing this row is out now too. Great...

20150808_165040.jpg

Ignoring the recently broken orange wire I push forward with what I was originally troubleshooting. I measure 12VDC off the Rottendog board. Good. So I connect the hack back up and measure the voltage off the back of the brown molex connector. 12VDC there too. Good. About 4 inches into the cable run there is a break in the line that has been soldered together and shrink wrapped. This could be the issue, but I don't have any molex pins so I can't properly re-terminate the connector and properly heat shrink it again so I decide to ignore this for now and continue down the line. If I don't have 12VDC at the next solder point then I know it's a break in the line 4 inches off the CPU.

The white/yellow wire travels from the CPU down under the PF and over to the 7 opto board on the underside of the PF (right side). I measure voltage here: +/- 5VDC.

This leads me to believe there is a break under that shrink wrap close to the CPU.

#1261 5 years ago

Guys the connector at J209 is crap. Another wire broke off in my hands and I barely touched it. This connector drives most of the switches so I need to fix it properly. Unfortunately finding molex pins in Ottawa is like finding Jimmy Hoffa.

I'll probably have to order the crimp pins and connectors from the States. Does anyone know the proper size I need? Great Plains has the connectors, but I'm not 100% what I'm ordering;

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=86

#1262 5 years ago

Just put new ramps on. What 2 screws are used to connect Bigfoot cave ramp to the small ramp that feeds right flipper? Thought I recall black plastic rivets instead of screws I have temp screw for the pic

image.jpg

#1263 5 years ago

It cld be push connectors but screws what most have in them but you need the correct screws which thosecare not

#1264 5 years ago

I believe its these so they sit flush20150809_193954.jpg

#1265 5 years ago

Yeah I just put one in for reference. Was not sure if it needed wood screw or one with nut on the end

#1266 5 years ago

U see my pic

#1267 5 years ago

Yeah but have seen it several ways. Think I prefer the plastic rivet or scree with nyloc nut

#1268 5 years ago

Any one have a link on which screws to buy?

#1269 5 years ago

Does anyone have a topper dome that is maybe old but functional? I'm putting my machine on location and don't need anything brand new, so something that was a little too scratched or hazy for a restored machine would work perfectly.

#1270 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Just put new ramps on. What 2 screws are used to connect Bigfoot cave ramp to the small ramp that feeds right flipper? Thought I recall black plastic rivets instead of screws I have temp screw for the pic

image.jpg

I'm going to be shopping mine very soon. I can tell what the stock answer is if you want. There shouldn't be any black plastic rivets. It's either going to be a screw as shown or a nut and bolt (likely with a star washer.)

#1271 5 years ago

I believe its a bevel head philips with a nut with built in star washer. 6/32 or 8/32 in size

#1272 5 years ago

I thing I used a machine screw with a nylock nut, although I may have used a sheet metal screw. Definitely flat phillips head.

#1273 5 years ago

Relavant search results on Marco

Parts list on IPDB (I looked but was unable to identify it.)

#1274 5 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

Any one have a link on which screws to buy?

Local hardware store will have what you need. 6-32 bevel head with a nut with star washer (1/2" length I think). Should be under 2 bucks for all 4.

#1275 5 years ago

Officially a member

What is the best LED approach? Was looking at Cointaker - their premium frosted kit.... Apologies if this has been covered.

#1276 5 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Officially a member
What is the best LED approach? Was looking at Cointaker - their premium frosted kit.... Apologies if this has been covered.

Keep in mind that unless you get the GI OCD from Herg you'll mess up all the fading effects with LEDs in the GI and backbox (and there's a lot of fading activity with White Water). You can get by pretty good with LEDs in the insterts.

#1277 5 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Officially a member
What is the best LED approach?

Regular Bulbs for GI, leds for inserts; other than standard bulbs in the rafts...couldn;t ever a satisfying yellow with LEDs.
I don;t think I've heard anything good aboot LEDs in the topper, so stay away from that.

#1278 5 years ago

Is there a color "recipe" or even a kit for the inserts... Also, part of me wants to light the PF somehow... My Indy 500 has those illuminating LED spotlights. Want more light punch, without monkeying with the fading effects or topper. Any other thoughts appreciated.

#1279 5 years ago

Personally, I don't think Wh20 is dark enough to warrant adding lights, and that's playing in a dark room (unless you have poor eye site).
As for inserts I just color matched everything and was happy with it. Frosted Domes either Comet/CT would do, no need for non flicker/no ghost etc. Just couldn't them up and order. Again...you might want to try a couple diff'rent colors for the yellow rafts...just seemed off to me.
You can also get some 555s for the whirpool so you won't have to worry aboot it again. Real owner & lovers of the game like red. These new punks like blue for some reason but it looks like garbage

#1280 5 years ago

It's all personal opinion. I added one spotlight. A small blue led strip by flippers. Mostly clear bulbs, blue by ramps and some Amber by mountains

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#1281 5 years ago

I've very happy to report that I have solved the issues on my WH2O. New crimp pins onto the Rottendog MPU board and row 4 is working perfectly again! I am soooo friggin' happy! It is so nice to fix something like this. This was especially gratifying as the problem brought me right back to the connectors on the PCB in the backbox.

Put up my initials 3 times tonight! Top score was just over 193,000,000. I was smiling the entire time!

I'm going to keep playing it to get a real feel for the game, then I'm going to shop the hell out of this thing! Thanks for all the help from everyone in this thread!

#1282 5 years ago

Great job fifty quid

Can someone post the thread where s bunch of guys had pics of the rubber posts they play on the witeform to get the balls to exit faster. Thanks !

#1283 5 years ago

Screenshot_2015-08-10-23-47-13-1.png

#1284 5 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Is there a color "recipe" or even a kit for the inserts... Also, part of me wants to light the PF somehow... My Indy 500 has those illuminating LED spotlights. Want more light punch, without monkeying with the fading effects or topper. Any other thoughts appreciated.

So far I've tried a bunch of LEDs in the rafts and I like the cointaker warm white. It's different than the original incandescent (which comes off as much more orange) but I like the difference. I'm going to get some pinks and see what they look like as well. I've heard that pink in the hazard inserts works well.

I play in the dark every once in a while and I do think spots on the playfield would help for that. The center of the playfield is pretty much un-illuminated. I just don't know how I feel about those big ugly spots in the way when I've tried damn hard to camouflage all of my mods so that they blend in well. I keep thinking that maybe I'll buy some spare mountains and actually drill a holes to hide the bodies of the spots. I haven't gotten that far yet (and probably never will). Anyway, if you want the spots not to mess up the fading and light show effects then tie them into the GI tract. Just jump them off a GI bulb and they'll act just like the bulb you're jumping off.

#1285 5 years ago

Last few tweaks. Upper flipper shooting right side ramp to Whirlpool I am getting rejects half the time. It's hitting the metal switch bracket mounted on top of ramp. The ramp def generates some ball lift. Any solutions?

#1286 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Last few tweaks. Upper flipper shooting right side ramp to Whirlpool I am getting rejects half the time. It's hitting the metal switch bracket mounted on top of ramp. The ramp def generates some ball lift. Any solutions?

The Pinbits White Water Clear Plastics + Protectors set comes with a modifiied version of the plastic that sits above that ramp that prevents balls from hitting the switch bracket. It's excellent.

Old Plastic:
wh20-old-plastic.jpg

New Plastic:
wh20-new-plastic.jpg

#1287 5 years ago

that makes sense! perfect

#1288 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Last few tweaks. Upper flipper shooting right side ramp to Whirlpool I am getting rejects half the time. It's hitting the metal switch bracket mounted on top of ramp. The ramp def generates some ball lift. Any solutions?

You need to lower the height of the last spacer on the piece that brings the ball down so it doesn't strike the switch mount:

Really simple as you can get by without a spacer there at all. The ball will never push down on the ball guide, only up. The spacer is just there so you don't screw down too far.

#1289 5 years ago

awesome thanks! free fixes are great!

#1290 5 years ago
Quoted from tonedef131:

Does anyone have a topper dome that is maybe old but functional? I'm putting my machine on location and don't need anything brand new, so something that was a little too scratched or hazy for a restored machine would work perfectly.

sent pm

#1291 5 years ago

Shopping out my WH20 - anyone have a handy hardware list for the PF? Specs and sizes of bolts, screws, nuts etc.

Marco seems to have a lot of applicable hardware...

Thank you

#1292 5 years ago

Just finished mine last night and its amazing looking and plays very very well compared to others ive played20150813_192213.jpg20150813_192148.jpg20150813_192042.jpg20150813_192028.jpg20150813_191854.jpg

#1293 5 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Officially a member
What is the best LED approach? Was looking at Cointaker - their premium frosted kit.... Apologies if this has been covered.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-led-recommendations

-Color matched inserts with exception of "RIVER", which I did in blue
-->Use Pinball Life's smaller LEDs for small inserts, CoinTaker's supers for larger
-Comet Optimax natural whites under the slings
-Comet 2-LED fluted natural whites under lane dividers (frosted on left)
-Cointaker 4+1 warm white towers under pops and left mountains
-Comet warm white 2-LED fluted under back playfield plastics
-Comet natural white and one blue fluted by whirlpool GI
-Whirlpool is half white and blue Cointaker frosted, looks great when animated
-Upper playfield is Cointaker warm white frosted
-Very back is Comet 2-LED blue fluted
-Pinball Bulbs LED strips and spotlights

DSC04605.jpg

#1294 5 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-led-recommendations
-Color matched inserts with exception of "RIVER", which I did in blue
-->Use Pinball Life's smaller LEDs for small inserts, CoinTaker's supers for larger
-Comet Optimax natural whites under the slings
-Comet 2-LED fluted natural whites under lane dividers (frosted on left)
-Cointaker 4+1 warm white towers under pops and left mountains
-Comet warm white 2-LED fluted under back playfield plastics
-Comet natural white and one blue fluted by whirlpool GI
-Whirlpool is half white and blue Cointaker frosted, looks great when animated
-Upper playfield is Cointaker warm white frosted
-Very back is Comet 2-LED blue fluted
-Pinball Bulbs LED strips and spotlights
DSC04605.jpg

How did you mount the spotlights in the upper left? Is there a screw up there?

#1295 5 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

How did you mount the spotlights in the upper left? Is there a screw up there?

There's an existing locknut for the mountains. I used a standoff to elevate them.

#1296 5 years ago

Anyone know where to get the mountains - seem sold out everywhere.

#1297 5 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Anyone know where to get the mountains - seem sold out everywhere.

Here are some :

http://ns8313.hostgator.com/~gameshop/product/white-water-6-piece-mountain-set/

#1298 5 years ago

Great, about to order... Couple questions:

-Do these match (color/texture) the originals?

-All I really need is the left bank of mountains (the one with the waterfall) if anyone has one (mine has some cracking around the front flasher). Let me know!

#1299 5 years ago

Hey bigd1979 - it looks beautiful. So beautiful that it deserves more space... should probably sell me that Congo to free up some room

#1300 5 years ago
Quoted from gac:

Hey bigd1979 - it looks beautiful. So beautiful that it deserves more space... should probably sell me that Congo to free up some room

Lol ive had a few people say that but id have to let others go before congo

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