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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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There are 5266 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 106.
#1201 5 years ago

Hey guys - anyone have advice on how to adjust the Mine Kickout?

Recently played one on location and the kick out was much softer and easier to control. Mine rockets the thing out and I really can never control it.

Thanks for any help.

#1202 5 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Hey guys - anyone have advice on how to adjust the Mine Kickout?
Recently played one on location and the kick out was much softer and easier to control. Mine rockets the thing out and I really can never control it.
Thanks for any help.

It's designed that way, however, the unfortunately side effect is that it causes wear on the playfield. You can put a weaker coil in the mine (do a search here for the type of coil, the info is out there) but I highly suggest against "castrating" the game by making the kickout a "gimmie". What I did on mine was to put in a weaker coil but adjusting the kickout so that you still have to skillfully control the ball off of the kick.

Aside from changing out the coil you can play with the "tightness" of the bracket and that will affect the strength to the kickout to some degree.

#1203 5 years ago

Does anyone have any experience replacing the hair on bigfoot? Mine is missing the fur on the back of his head. I was thinking of buying a cheap dollar store stuffed animal and trying to match the fur and colour as best I could.

I'm on the waiting list at Bay Area Amusements, and it seems everyone else is out of stock.

#1204 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Does anyone have any experience replacing the hair on bigfoot? Mine is missing the fur on the back of his head. I was thinking of buying a cheap dollar store stuffed animal and trying to match the fur and colour as best I could.
I'm on the waiting list at Bay Area Amusements, and it seems everyone else is out of stock.

Find something that matches close.

Removed old hair. Use that to make a template on the new hair (or some paper for a pattern.) Cut out new hair. Rubber/contact cement to head. Done.

#1205 5 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Find something that matches close.
Removed old hair. Use that to make a template on the new hair (or some paper for a pattern.) Cut out new hair. Rubber/contact cement to head. Done.

There is no hair to make a template. I'd have to use the back of his head and guess.

Is there anyone that wants to sell an old one that might have redone theirs to go white? Or simply take a photo of it off the head so that I can see the proper shape?

#1206 5 years ago

I would look at a fabric store. Or an on line fabric store to try for a match. Faux fur is pretty common as a textile.

Also, there are super glues specific to vinyl and fabrics that may work a little better than rubber cement.

#1207 5 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I would look at a fabric store. Or an on line fabric store to try for a match. Faux fur is pretty common as a textile.
Also, there are super glues specific to vinyl and fabrics that may work a little better than rubber cement.

Yeah, I found some stuff that's specific to attach vinyl to fabric and it's held up really well. I used it to glue Bigfoot's arm fur to his hands. I still need to do a write-up on that and the chin-wear factor. I got about 1/2 way through the writeup and lost steam.

#1208 5 years ago

I got my Whitewater running last night and the only problem I seem to be having is the lower hotfoot switch isn't working. Everything seems okay and the rest of the switches in the column & row are working. Does anyone have a photo of how theirs are wired? It looks like a PO may have done some hack wiring so I want to make sure it's hooked up right before I go changing diodes and switches.

#1209 5 years ago

Re-joined the club last night...I need to check the flipper coils. Mine are so strong the ball goes flying off the green stand ups...looks like the manual calls for FL-116289. How are these in the game? I def need to check mine but want a littel less power on mine.

Plunger spring. On Wh20 this seems critical. What spring do most prefer?

#1210 5 years ago
Quoted from tonedef131:

I got my Whitewater running last night and the only problem I seem to be having is the lower hotfoot switch isn't working. Everything seems okay and the rest of the switches in the column & row are working. Does anyone have a photo of how theirs are wired? It looks like a PO may have done some hack wiring so I want to make sure it's hooked up right before I go changing diodes and switches.

Well it should be set up just like the other hotfoot switch no? You make sure to check the switch isn't always closed thus making it not work?

#1211 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Re-joined the club last night...I need to check the flipper coils. Mine are so strong the ball goes flying off the green stand ups...looks like the manual calls for FL-116289. How are these in the game? I def need to check mine but want a littel less power on mine.

Hey Mike - From one of Lloyd's posts on RGP:
Lower left: FL-15411 (orange)
Lower right: FL-11629 (blue)
Upper right: FL-11630 (red)

#1212 5 years ago

Hey all! Happy to have recently joined the club :0)

I'm in the process of re-building my WH20 and ordered some parts from Little Shop of Games (Curly's great, BTW!). The new Spine Chiller ramp that feeds the ball to the upper playfield doesn't have "tabs" to hold the optos like the existing one did (see attached below).

Any idea as to why this is? And should I be using these optos, or are they pointless?

I've gotten some feedback that my pin could be a prototype, but I'm not sure if there's any other way to tell. Either way, if the optos belong in the pin, I'd like to figure out a way to implement them without jeopardizing the new ramp in any way.

Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide!

spine_chiller.jpg

#1213 5 years ago
Quoted from Sean_R:

I've gotten some feedback that my pin could be a prototype

Wow near. Yeah, mine did not have optos on that ramp. The opto on the mini playfield serves the same purpose. The ramp flap on there is also pretty good.

#1214 5 years ago
Quoted from Sean_R:

Hey all! Happy to have recently joined the club :0)
I'm in the process of re-building my WH20 and ordered some parts from Little Shop of Games (Curly's great, BTW!). The new Spine Chiller ramp that feeds the ball to the upper playfield doesn't have "tabs" to hold the optos like the existing one did (see attached below).
Any idea as to why this is? And should I be using these optos, or are they pointless?
I've gotten some feedback that my pin could be a prototype, but I'm not sure if there's any other way to tell. Either way, if the optos belong in the pin, I'd like to figure out a way to implement them without jeopardizing the new ramp in any way.
Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide!

spine_chiller.jpg

I've heard of this on early versions I believe. Check the area to the right of the upper flipper. If it's yellow there you at least have an early production model and that could be the explanation. I belive the optos were moved from the ramp to the playfield. You do need them to register that ramp shot.

#1215 5 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

Hey Mike - From one of Lloyd's posts on RGP:
Lower left: FL-15411 (orange)
Lower right: FL-11629 (blue)
Upper right: FL-11630 (red)

Thanks Ian. Mine are correct but the ball goes flying off the green stand ups...Feels like when I play IJ

#1216 5 years ago

Mine has traditional switch and ramp has holes. Of course they are cracked and destroyed

#1217 5 years ago

My originals are cracked at the lock targets. I have heard the new ramps have thicker plastic that won't crack. Anyone have experience with this? Thinking about buying the new ones.

#1218 5 years ago

I got new ramps in mine (new playfield, too!). Each of the seven old ramps was cracked somewhere. The new ones did seem heavier.

#1219 5 years ago

@mot @Jam_Burglar thanks for the insights here. Definitely yellow to the right of the flipper, which makes it sound like it's an early version (see below). I'll have to figure out the mounting for the opto on the upper playfield's entrance.

@Elicash I just received the new ramps from Little Shop of Games. They definitely seem more durable than the existing/older ones.

I'm still hoping to source the metal piece that goes on the right side of the Disaster Drop ramp entrance (see below).

yellow.jpg

disaster_drop.png

#1220 5 years ago

gonna replace my ramps. Anyone have a picture guide of getting ramps back together. Never torn down a Wh20 and looks a little confusing getting ramps back right

#1221 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

gonna replace my ramps. Anyone have a picture guide of getting ramps back together. Never torn down a Wh20 and looks a little confusing getting ramps back right

Just go in reverse for when you take them out!

#1222 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

gonna replace my ramps. Anyone have a picture guide of getting ramps back together. Never torn down a Wh20 and looks a little confusing getting ramps back right

It's in the manual.

#1223 5 years ago
Quoted from Sean_R:

@mot @Jam_Burglar thanks for the insights here. Definitely yellow to the right of the flipper, which makes it sound like it's an early version (see below). I'll have to figure out the mounting for the opto on the upper playfield's entrance.

Definitely double check me because I'm going off of hazy memory alone. Does your version have this opto bracket here?
Optos Behind Bigfoot.jpg

#1224 5 years ago

Im sure once ramps are out I can just put back in reverse.

Looked for this on other threads. Best way to clean a rusty ramp flap?

#1225 5 years ago

@Jam_Burglar thanks for the picture - that's incredibly helpful. No, my version doesn't have the opto bracket there. I'll have to source that part and probably make some "sight" holes in the rail guards for the optos to work properly. Much appreciated!

#1226 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Im sure once ramps are out I can just put back in reverse.
Looked for this on other threads. Best way to clean a rusty ramp flap?

Light sand paper works for me.
1200 with water

#1227 5 years ago
Quoted from Sean_R:

@Jam_Burglar thanks for the picture - that's incredibly helpful. No, my version doesn't have the opto bracket there. I'll have to source that part and probably make some "sight" holes in the rail guards for the optos to work properly. Much appreciated!

I don't know if drilling up your playfield and rail guards will devalue the game or not. If the early versions have any extra collector value (and I have no clue if they do or not) it would seem that keeping it closer to original might be to your advantage.

Also, it might be easier to fashion a way to attach optos to the new ramp. You could get some plastic tabs and either superglue or bolt them to the repro ramp, then attach the optos in the same way they are attached to the old ramp.

#1228 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Im sure once ramps are out I can just put back in reverse.
Looked for this on other threads. Best way to clean a rusty ramp flap?

Steel wool is usually what I start with before breaking out sandpaper.

#1229 5 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

I don't know if drilling up your playfield and rail guards will devalue the game or not. If the early versions have any extra collector value (and I have no clue if they do or not) it would seem that keeping it closer to original might be to your advantage.
Also, it might be easier to fashion a way to attach optos to the new ramp. You could get some plastic tabs and either superglue or bolt them to the repro ramp, then attach the optos in the same way they are attached to the old ramp.

Good point. I'll get creative and fasten the opto to the ramp, just like it was originally meant to be. Appreciate your insights!

#1230 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

gonna replace my ramps. Anyone have a picture guide of getting ramps back together. Never torn down a Wh20 and looks a little confusing getting ramps back right

Mike - give me a call when you're ready to start and I'll tell you some of the things to look out for. Believe it or not I found it much easier re-assembling it than tearing it down.

#1231 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Im sure once ramps are out I can just put back in reverse.
Looked for this on other threads. Best way to clean a rusty ramp flap?

If you're getting new ones they'll come with new flaps already installed.

#1232 5 years ago

Thanks Ian. Getting A nos set. Look perfect except one flap

1 week later
#1233 5 years ago

Hi guys! So I finally put my VUK back together. I completely stripped it, cleaned it and then reflowed the solder on the opto boards which I had proven already work (see my earlier posts).

So I turned on the game. I press START. I hear the sound bite for the VUK and it fires. Then the sound bite for the VUK sounds again and it fires. So something is still messed up.

Do I go into switch test mode now? Anyone ever had a similar issue to this?

[EDIT] I just re-read the pinwiki. Since the transmitters all seem to work I'll try this out tomorrow on the receivers;
"The "receiving side" of an opto pair, which should be housed in a black plastic frame, can be tested with just about any strong incandescent flashlight. Note that an LED flashlight does not typically work too well for this test. Place the game in switch test. Block the sending opto that would normally illuminate the receiver under test. Shine your bright incandescent flashlight on the reciever opto. The switch state as shown on the display should change."

#1234 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hi guys! So I finally put my VUK back together. I completely stripped it, cleaned it and then reflowed the solder on the opto boards which I had proven already work (see my earlier posts).
So I turned on the game. I press START. I hear the sound bite for the VUK and it fires. Then the sound bite for the VUK sounds again and it fires. So something is still messed up.
Do I go into switch test mode now? Anyone ever had a similar issue to this?

had this issue and if i remember correctly, it was the plastic end of the kickout (where it makes contact with the ball) had broken off. This made the plunger too short and it would still kick the ball out, but messed with the opto. I replaced the plunger and all good.

#1235 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Do I go into switch test mode now?

It's always time for switch test mode! This is an opto switch so it should indicate that the switch is closed when the light from the emitter can be seen, and open when it's not (i.e. when there's a ball in the VUK). You'll probably see that it is open, which is incorrect. That would explain why the game thinks there's a ball there which it's trying to kick out.

While you're in switch test mode, test the other optos and a few other switches in the same row and column.

You might find this helpful:
wh20-switch-matrix.PNG

#1236 5 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

had this issue and if i remember correctly, it was the plastic end of the kickout (where it makes contact with the ball) had broken off. This made the plunger too short and it would still kick the ball out, but messed with the opto. I replaced the plunger and all good.

You mean the ball popper cup? Mine has three of the four fins broken off. I have a new one on order. I don't see how this would mess with the opto.

ballpopper.jpg

Quoted from mot:

It's always time for switch test mode! This is an opto switch so it should indicate that the switch is closed when the light from the emitter can be seen, and open when it's not (i.e. when there's a ball in the VUK). You'll probably see that it is open, which is incorrect. That would explain why the game thinks there's a ball there which it's trying to kick out.
While you're in switch test mode, test the other optos and a few other switches in the same row and column.
You might find this helpful:
wh20-switch-matrix.PNG

Thanks! I plan on testing out the optos in the VUK tomorrow night. Is it possible the receiver is weak? It's misfiring, but it is random, not constant.

#1237 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Thanks! I plan on testing out the optos in the VUK tomorrow night. Is it possible the receiver is weak? It's misfiring, but it is random, not constant.

It's possible. I would think any of the three ball lock optos could cause the VUK to kick when they think there's a ball there. Switch test mode is the only real way to see what's going on.

Did you clean all three of those ball lock optos?

#1238 5 years ago

Yes, ball popper cup. I have no idea how or why, but that was my fix

#1239 5 years ago
Quoted from mot:

It's possible. I would think any of the three ball lock optos could cause the VUK to kick when they think there's a ball there. Switch test mode is the only real way to see what's going on.
Did you clean all three of those ball lock optos?

Yep. I tested and cleaned the bejesus out of them all. They sparkle in the sun now! I'll try the switch test tonight.

Quoted from yzfguy:

Yes, ball popper cup. I have no idea how or why, but that was my fix

I'll take the one off the gold mine VUK and put it onto the VUK I'm having problems with. I will report back tonight.

#1240 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Yep. I tested and cleaned the bejesus out of them all. They sparkle in the sun now! I'll try the switch test tonight.

I'll take the one off the gold mine VUK and put it onto the VUK I'm having problems with. I will report back tonight.

fingers crossed!

-1
#1241 5 years ago

We need a 2.0 like BOP got. Imgaine this game with updated graphics and some new rules added!

#1242 5 years ago
Quoted from DevilsTuner:

We need a 2.0 like BOP got. Imgaine this game with updated graphics and some new rules added!

No thanks.

#1243 5 years ago

Just received an order from pinball life. Don't feel like anew order. Anyone have a set of the see thru green Stand up targets to sell

#1244 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hi guys! So I finally put my VUK back together. I completely stripped it, cleaned it and then reflowed the solder on the opto boards which I had proven already work (see my earlier posts).
So I turned on the game. I press START. I hear the sound bite for the VUK and it fires. Then the sound bite for the VUK sounds again and it fires. So something is still messed up.
Do I go into switch test mode now? Anyone ever had a similar issue to this?
[EDIT] I just re-read the pinwiki. Since the transmitters all seem to work I'll try this out tomorrow on the receivers;
"The "receiving side" of an opto pair, which should be housed in a black plastic frame, can be tested with just about any strong incandescent flashlight. Note that an LED flashlight does not typically work too well for this test. Place the game in switch test. Block the sending opto that would normally illuminate the receiver under test. Shine your bright incandescent flashlight on the reciever opto. The switch state as shown on the display should change."

There were some old threads on RGP about this. I believe optos were replaced and that fixed it.
http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.games.pinball/2009-06/msg13370.html

Heres one from pinside, failed solder joint
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh2o-issue?responsive=0

#1245 5 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

There were some old threads on RGP about this. I believe optos were replaced and that fixed it.
http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.games.pinball/2009-06/msg13370.html
Heres one from pinside, failed solder joint
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh2o-issue?responsive=0

These threads describe exactly what is occurring with mine. The first one is more closely related that the second, but yes a random firing and "BALL 3 LOCKED" has appeared on the DMD. I have an order in for new optos. I'll try the switch test tonight, and test out the transmitters.

#1246 5 years ago

Well it's not the ball popper cup. I swapped it with the one from the lost mine. No change.

For reference, when I turn the game on, the upper PF VUK fires twice slowly. Is this normal?

Oh, and I did a TEST... looks like I have a series of switches not working. 34, 44, 54, and 74 reported errors. This shouldn't be too difficult to fix as it's probably all related to one problem.

On to switch test mode...

...uh, what switch number is it?

#1247 5 years ago

sorry, it's been a while but I could have sworn that cup did it for me!

#1248 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

For reference, when I turn the game on, the upper PF VUK fires twice slowly. Is this normal?

No, it shouldn't fire when you turn the game on.

Big Foot turns forwards and backwards however. Does that happen on yours?

#1249 5 years ago
Quoted from Gorgonzola:

No, it shouldn't fire when you turn the game on.
Big Foot turns forwards and backwards however. Does that happen on yours?

Yes this happens on mine. Thanks. I've never owned a WH2O so I wasn't sure what the start up sequence was like.

#1250 5 years ago

Try reseating the small ribbon cable that connects the power board to the cpu.

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