My kickout sends ball to right flipper and I'm able to kick it up through the rollover, spotting a letter.
My kickout sends ball to right flipper and I'm able to kick it up through the rollover, spotting a letter.
Quoted from Blackbeard:My kickout sends ball to right flipper and I'm able to kick it up through the rollover, spotting a letter.
I can do that and live about 60% of the time. The other 40% it continues through the outlane. I've since changed strategies...
How do you consistently hit the secret passage shot on this game? Seems like an impossible shot to me..
Quoted from pacman11:How do you consistently hit the secret passage shot on this game? Seems like an impossible shot to me..
For me its just a lucky shot.
Quoted from pacman11:How do you consistently hit the secret passage shot on this game? Seems like an impossible shot to me..
You don't...unless you've really got it down. I tried for awhile to shoot it with the left flipper using a backhand after getting it moving from a post past...never could get it down though.
Quoted from fiberdude120:For me its just a lucky shot.
I agree with this. If you were really good and consistent you could hit a slow shot up the left loop but that's crazy accuracy to do consistently.
I usually tend to hit it when I make a left loop shot that isn't all that clean. The ball gets caught up enough to slow down and can't make it all the way around the loop, then it falls down through the secret passage.
The other way it tends to happen is on multi-ball and a ball gets knocked in there either through No Way out or the left loop.
On less frequent occasions I make the shot from the right loop but that's pretty rare.
ok....need help from fellow WH2O owners. I am running the home rom(not sure if that matters) and having issued with my Spine Chiller/Multi millions switch. In game play I hear it trigger however doesn't give credit for hitting the shot. In test mode works instantly and shows switch 46 which is correct. Haven't ever had a credit dot since doing the full restoration.....any ideas?
Quoted from Pinballer22:ok....need help from fellow WH2O owners.
Hmmm...how aboot is there a switch AFTER that? Just spitballing here, but maybe the ramp entrance switch makes the noise, but a switch after that awards it? Like if you hit the ball half way up the ramp & then it came back down, it would make the entrance sound, but not score the points?
Just a guess.
Test switch 66. It may be the second switch in completing the ramp.
Think about it... If you get the ball up the ramp just a little past the gate, it wouldn't be fair to receive the millions, right? It should have to go all the way up the ramp.. and hit another switch. I believe TheLaw is correct.
I think the switch is 66 that probably is out or needs adjusting...may be an opto.
You might have 2 optos plugged in to the wrong leads.
Opto 66(Left ramp main) has the same square plug in as 68(disaster drop enter).
Quoted from bballfan:You might have 2 optos plugged in to the wrong leads.
Opto 66(Left ramp main) has the same square plug in as 68(disaster drop enter).
That's probably it...will be home soon and check that out first thing. Should have thought of that but thought it tested proper but might have missed it. Thanks
Quoted from Pinballer22:That's probably it...will be home soon and check that out first thing. Should have thought of that but thought it tested proper but might have missed it. Thanks
It's the optos at the top of the ramp (by Bigfoot) that trigger the completion of that ramp shot. check the metal bracket behind Bigfoot to make sure it's secure and not blocking the optos. After that I'd check alignment of the optos, then clean them, then check connections.
Quoted from pacman11:How can I test the opt to see if it's bad or not?
Go into switch test, put your finger or anything betwixed the optos to see if it registers. If it doesn't, you got a bad receiver or transmitter.
Go in switch edge test and flash a led light into the receiver (black).
If it doesn't register the switch then that is probably bad.If it registers then the transmitter might be bad.
To check the transmitter (white) look at the bulb through a camera.If it looks lit then it is good.
Also check for 12v on the grey wire side on each opto board.
Quoted from mot:People seriously like LEDs in this game? I live in incandescent heaven. You can't even see anything in the game pictured above!
2015-02-21.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Cool white looks good. I think all blue is too much as well.
Well, yes I do like the brightness of yours I really do. The picture is a little misleading because the colors are vivid and do not show the real "in person" look. I think the lenses are the best for LEDs and the above is good for incandescent. I will evaluate this, but the energy and reduced heat you cannot deny.
Quoted from PjM:So, after seven months and a whole lot of cash...it is finally done. A few issues but overall I am pleased. This is my second one I did. First was Fish Tales and that game is played the most in my collection. Few pics.image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
Cabinet looks really good. Did you re-decal? I'm thinking about it but hear it is colossal work.
Thanks. Yes, I did do new decals. Time consuming but not hard. Replaced just about everything but the wire harnesses! Just stopped playing it now. Fun game.
Quoted from mot:People seriously like LEDs in this game? I live in incandescent heaven. You can't even see anything in the game pictured above!
Well LEDs not east to take pictures of, but I've never been a fan of painting the whole thing blue with LEDs. Most inserts work well with LEDs IMO...other than the rafting inserts for some reason.
Quoted from PjM:Well, yes I do like the brightness of yours I really do. The picture is a little misleading because the colors are vivid and do not show the real "in person" look. I think the lenses are the best for LEDs and the above is good for incandescent. I will evaluate this, but the energy and reduced heat you cannot deny.
I'm sure it looks much better in person as it's very hard getting good pics with LED's. I just did full LED in mine along with LED and GI OCD boards and the colors are amazing. This game is well suited for LEDs.
Just my $0.02
Quoted from bballfan:You might have 2 optos plugged in to the wrong leads.
Opto 66(Left ramp main) has the same square plug in as 68(disaster drop enter).
Finally had time to look at this last night....fixed my issue! Thanks again!!
Anyone use Painter's Touch deep blue spray paint to restore a white water backbox and then add new decals? Also, gloss, satin, flat??
Half tempted to do this: remove backbox. Sand. Putty dents and corners etc. Sand.. more sand and putty.. sand. Prime, then try this spray paint.
I don't have a air brush etc.
Any feedback? My white water backbox is dinged up a bit, but the cab is super nice.
Wow. That looks great. All with spray paint!?
Can you describe your process and the products used for backbox repairs ? What did you do about the yellow warning label?
Yes, that is what I did also. Removed old decal, repaired all scratches, dings, dents and anything else to perfection. I took my back box to Sherwin Williams to color match. Bought a good quality paint. I have a LVHP sprayer though. Worked great. If I could ship paint I would send the extra to you. I had to get a 1/2 gallon but only used about 1/5 of the paint.
You can rent sprayers if you are ambitious. You can also put any color paint in an aerosol can. I put multiple coats on mine. The warning decal is a stencil. I botched my stencil by putting too many yellow coats on. Just spray 2x at the max for the stencil.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Wow. That looks great. All with spray paint!?
Can you describe your process and the products used for backbox repairs ? What did you do about the yellow warning label?
Rust-Oleum Painters touch gloss Deep Blue matches perfect. I even used it to touch up a few scratches on the lower cabinet and it matched perfectly.
Rob
Blackbeard - Previous owner of my WH20 touched up the back of backbox and front trim. It is a perfect match IMO. I cant see any transitions. He gave me the "recipe" he used pasted below:
Williams White Water
• Home Depot Evermore Latex High Gloss Enamel
Base3 (HD7113) (Quart)
E Thalo Blue (OZ) 3 (48) 31 (96) 1
KX White (OZ) 0 (48) 10 (96) 1
V Magenta (OZ) 0 (48) 5 (96) 1
Quoted from Blackbeard:Thanks guys.
Really wanting to use painters touch.
Anyone know if it should be gloss or satin?
It's Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Deep Blue Gloss.
Guys: what are you all using for the lights around the whirlpool? Mine has blue leds installed, and they look good. Just wondering what else may look neat.
I don't think reds look good here even though it's original. What about warm white leds?
What are you guys using?
Quoted from Blackbeard:What are you guys using?
REDs...the original color. I try to keep as much stock as possible. Using white seems like ther's no point to that.
The only thing I have diff'rent on mine is using blue for the river letters.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Guys: what are you all using for the lights around the whirlpool? Mine has blue leds installed, and they look good. Just wondering what else may look neat.
I don't think reds look good here even though it's original. What about warm white leds?
What are you guys using?
Blues. I also put two blues on the spot rivers, and river targets. New players seem to understand this setup better to advance class.
I've got blue in the whirlpool. Also have blue flasher plastics over lost mine and back mountain flashers. Finally, have a blue condom instead of a yellow on the insanity falls shot. I agree that a lot of people go overboard with the blue led's. I'm an incandescent guy, and this (IMHO) is the perfect amount of blue.
Quoted from Elicash:I agree that a lot of people go overboard with the blue led's..
GI is the main culprit there no doubt.
Quoted from TheLaw:GI is the main culprit there no doubt.
All blue LED GI in White Water made me want to throw up.
I use incandescent blues in the whirlpool (as opposed to LEDs or whites with blue rubber caps). Also, I use a blue flasher cap for the whirlpool flasher (I may have put a blue LED flasher in there too, I can't remember.)
I also use blue LEDs for the river letter and river class inserts. Looks better in my opinion.
I keep the mountain flashers red because blue there doesn't look right to me.
My GI is all incandescent at the moment but I do use blue incandescent bulbs in the rear of the game only. The soft "aqua" blue color seems to match better to my eyes. This also darkens the area around bigfoot a tad so when my spotlight mod comes on its more noticable. I may switch over to LEDs and use a GI OCD board. I won't switch to LEDs in the GI for this game without the GI OCD board because it sacrifices the dimming (and WH2O uses lots of it).
You can see pics of my game at the bottom of page 2 of this thread if intersted. I've made some changes since taking those pics but the blue incandescents are in there.
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