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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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  • 5,271 posts
  • 479 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by arcadenerd925
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There are 5271 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 106.
#751 5 years ago

I went all new ramps.....smooooth...You will love it!IMG_20130507_080754_037.jpgIMG_20130507_080745_690.jpg

#752 5 years ago
Quoted from mot:

That's right.
On the game, I got, every single one of the 7 ramps was cracked somewhere. Flame polishing was not a viable option for me.

Well at least you HAD to splurge for beautiful new ramps, right?

#753 5 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I went all new ramps.....smooooth...You will love it!

IMG_20130507_080745_690.jpg 265 KB

IMG_20130507_080754_037.jpg 298 KB

Was there any riveting to do?

#754 5 years ago
Quoted from mot:

On the game, I got, every single one of the 7 ramps was cracked somewhere. Flame polishing was not a viable option for me.

Same here. The new ramps are thicker and look great, but they are expensive.

#755 5 years ago

Did they install easily? As in, did they fit well? Any riveting to do?

#756 5 years ago

The thickness means that some bits have to be trimmed slightly to fit. I don't recall that any riveting was necessary, but I could be wrong.

#757 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Did they install easily? As in, did they fit well? Any riveting to do?

You can see the flaps are already installed along with decals. Ones I replaced fit just fine and will last a lot longer.

http://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Whitewater-4-Ramp-Set

#758 5 years ago

No riveting or trimming for me. One decal on the big ramp needed to be stuck on. It's a lot of ramp, but not too difficult.

#759 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So basically the process would be something like this:
1. remove decals
2. clean ramp thoroughly with simple green .. (something non flammable I'd think) or the dishwasher.
3. flame on
4. reapply new decals

1a. remove glue after removing decals.

#760 5 years ago

New ramps are a great. Smooth as butter. $700 butter.

#761 5 years ago
Quoted from Industen:

New ramps are a great. Smooth as butter. $700 butter.

That is some expensive butter!

#762 5 years ago

Can anyone help me ID this ramp entrance protector on the right side entrance of the disaster drop ramp? Its missing on my WH2O and trying to track one down.

I haven't seen it for sale anywhere...

rampentrance.JPG
#763 5 years ago
Quoted from leatherface:

Can anyone help me ID this ramp entrance protector on the right side entrance of the disaster drop ramp? Its missing on my WH2O and trying to track one down.
I haven't seen it for sale anywhere...

rampentrance.JPG 74 KB

Not sure on that, but Cliffy does make an extended protector for the left side of this ramp that I highly suggest:
http://www.passionforpinball.com/wh20.htm

#764 5 years ago

Is it me, or is the skill shot damn hard sometimes?

I ordered a replacement spring just to make sure the correct one is in there, but I make the shot about 4/10 times.

#765 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Is it me, or is the skill shot damn hard sometimes?
I ordered a replacement spring just to make sure the correct one is in there, but I make the shot about 4/10 times.

I can make mine 90% of the time.

#766 5 years ago

92% here

#768 5 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Just you n00b

Hey man! Could be the spring!

#769 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Is it me, or is the skill shot damn hard sometimes?
I ordered a replacement spring just to make sure the correct one is in there, but I make the shot about 4/10 times.

Mine is kind of tricky. I don't know if my spring has been replaced or not but it's the stiffer variety, not the loosey goosey type. I wouldn't say it's that hard but it is very common for me to have to take a couple shots where I don't clear the hump, or I overshoot and have to let the ball drain to re-try.

#770 5 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Mine is kind of tricky. I don't know if my spring has been replaced or not but it's the stiffer variety, not the loosey goosey type. I wouldn't say it's that hard but it is very common for me to have to take a couple shots where I don't clear the hump, or I overshoot and have to let the ball drain to re-try.

Yep. That's mine.

My marco order arrived today, so I'll install the new spring this week sometime and post back.

#771 5 years ago

Any of you guys apply any mylar on the pf where the ball drops from disaster drop? That area on mine is nice, and I'd like to protect it..

Thoughts?

#772 5 years ago

The operation of the plunger is not just affected by the stiffness of the spring. The two prongs on the shooter gauge (metal piece that the ball rests against) can bend, and they have a big influence on where the shooter contacts the ball and how much energy is transferred.

When I first got my White Water, a full hard plunge would give me the skill shot 90% of the time. The ball would very rarely ever go all the way around and down the spine chiller. I didn't like that one bit. I thought the shooter spring might be wrong and the game might be too steep. I eventually disproved both of those theories and found that bending the metal prongs on the shooter gauge gave me a ton of control to get it just how I like it.

And in case it's not clear what I'm talking about, I'm talking about the U shaped part at the top of this guy:
shooter-gauge.jpg

#773 5 years ago
Quoted from mot:

The operation of the plunger is not just affected by the stiffness of the spring. The two prongs on the shooter gauge (metal piece that the ball rests against) can bend, and they have a big influence on where the shooter contacts the ball and how much energy is transferred.
When I first got my White Water, a full hard plunge would give me the skill shot 90% of the time. The ball would very rarely ever go all the way around and down the spine chiller. I didn't like that one bit. I thought the shooter spring might be wrong and the game might be too steep. I eventually disproved both of those theories and found that bending the metal prongs on the shooter gauge gave me a ton of control to get it just how I like it.
And in case it's not clear what I'm talking about, I'm talking about the U shaped part at the top of this guy:

shooter-gauge.jpg 33 KB

I wonder if I've got the wrong spring in mine. If I pull back the plunger all of the way the ball is going to FLY! The amount of play between being too short, just right, and too long is very small. I like the difficulty though.

#774 5 years ago

If I pull mine back all the way it will go all the way around every time.

#775 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Any of you guys apply any mylar on the pf where the ball drops from disaster drop? That area on mine is nice, and I'd like to protect it..
Thoughts?

I put a cliffy switch protector over the switch cutout there. The switch hole there seemed extra susceptible to damage. I've never seen any playfield damage there.

The main places I worry about (excepting the VUK which should be cliffy protected) are the drop from the ramp to the right in-lane (this is one of the main spots I see chewed up on other White Waters) and the landing area from the skill-shot. I put down a piece of clear cling vinyl right below the factor Mylar in the right in-lane and then put a cliffy over the switch cutout. The cliffy keeps the vinyl from moving and this has prevented wear here.

Next time I do a tear down I’m going to put some vinyl or Mylar in the area where the skill-shot drops. That area tends to get dirt and I don’t want to wait for the clear the wear through to do something about it.

I also have a piece of Mylar down to prevent Lost Mine kick-out wear, but after reducing the coil strength there I’m not sure it’s even needed.

#776 5 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

If I pull mine back all the way it will go all the way around every time.

Hmm, if I even get to 1/2 way back mine is gone.

#777 5 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Hmm, if I even get to 1/2 way back mine is gone.

Same here. I was just saying.

#778 5 years ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

Same here. I was just saying.

Okay, I see. It wouldn't suprize me if what I have in there is the original spring. Hardly anything had been touched on mine other than the ramps. It was pretty damn clean when I got it.

#779 5 years ago

So it was the spring.

Mine had a red one installed. The one ordered was the correct one. Much less stiff.

Another question: noticed no spring in my lock down lever. So I ordered one, but am not seeing holes to attach it to. Now wondering if there isn't supposed to be one.

Anyone?

#780 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So it was the spring.
Mine had a red one installed. The one ordered was the correct one. Much less stiff.
Another question: noticed no spring in my lock down lever. So I ordered one, but am not seeing holes to attach it to. Now wondering if there isn't supposed to be one.
Anyone?

I think this was before the spring was added to the part.

#781 5 years ago

Looking for a set of Brown boulders and a whirlpool and suicide ramp. PM me if you have any.. Also two white stand up targets..

#782 5 years ago
Quoted from judremy:

I think this was before the spring was added to the part.

Thanks. That's what I'm now thinking too as my bsd doesn't have one either. Oh well it was about a dollar.

#783 5 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Looking for a set of Brown boulders and a whirlpool and suicide ramp. PM me if you have any.. Also two white stand up targets..

Are you looking for new or used? If used, I've a set of the boulders

Post edited by mac622: addition

#784 5 years ago

I'm looking for a lower right boulder (the one with the "boulder garden" sign on it). Can be used or new as long as not cracked.

#785 5 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

Are you looking for new or used? If used, I've a set of the boulders
Post edited by mac622: addition

Thanks I think I found a set. Does anyone know where to find the signs that go on the mountains? Boulder Gardens sign etc.

#786 5 years ago

Speaking of boulders does anybody need a missing mountain mod? I'm about to order one from Aeneas and the shipping is the same if you get two so if you need one and want to split the costs let me know. Good timing to be buying the mod with EURO down to 1.14!

#787 5 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Thanks I think I found a set. Does anyone know where to find the signs that go on the mountains? Boulder Gardens sign etc.

I may - I'll check tonight

#788 5 years ago

Thinking that wh20 is a keeper for a bit, so in my shopping of it, I will possibly look to replace the spine chiller (lower to upper) ramp that has a tiny chip at the entrance. SO, in doing so, I may get the lock target cliffys.

Does anyone have experience with them? I've read a bit and some people say they're difficult to fit, etc.

#789 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thinking that wh20 is a keeper for a bit, so in my shopping of it, I will possibly look to replace the spine chiller (lower to upper) ramp that has a tiny chip at the entrance. SO, in doing so, I may get the lock target cliffys.
Does anyone have experience with them? I've read a bit and some people say they're difficult to fit, etc.

They aren't cliffies, they are mantis protectors. They are a tight fit, but they fit. I haven't put them on mine yet because (a) no damage to that area so far, and (b) when installed them on my last WH2O they required new holes and I'm really OCD about stuff like that. I don't like to permenantly change anything, even if its just the underside of the cabinet. It's kind of stupid actually. Just my hangup.

But yeah, they work. They can slightly change the play on those two targets and the entry to No Way Out. I don't mean this in a bad way, just slightly different because the ball can glance the protector where otherwise it would be glancing the target itself.

#790 5 years ago

thanks jam

I may forgo the mantis protectors then, as the pin is huo at this point and won't see a ton of play.. enough to warrant protecting that ramp behind the targets.

#791 5 years ago

I recently put the Mantis protectors on my WH2O. I wanted to protect the ramps by the lock targets - I also installed a new disaster drop ramp. No problem installing them.

#792 5 years ago

I put all new ramps in and installed the mantis protectors so my ramps wouldnt get chewed up like the originals were. They went in easy, and I actually like the way they look.

#793 5 years ago

Talk about the screwing into the playfield part.... They screw in from the bottom>?

#794 5 years ago

Do you guys align your upper flipper against metal guide or do you align it with the roll pin in the PF? I didn't notice the difference when I was tearing it down but when reassembling it last night if I align it with the roll pin the bat sticks out about 1/4" from the guide whereas before it was snug against the guide as in the picture. I'm sure this makes a big difference with the ramps shots so curious what you guys find is the best alignment? If this wasn't such a PITA to adjust once the mini PF is installed I would test it out to see what works best but since that's not the case I'd like to get it right before putting the mini pf back in. Thanks

UPF bat.jpg
#795 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Talk about the screwing into the playfield part.... They screw in from the bottom>?

Yeah, from the bottom. IF, I remember right, I had to do four new holes for the mantis protectors and then I also think I had to move the actual targets back too and drill new holes for that. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on the need to slightly relocate the targets. It's been a few years.

#796 5 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I put all new ramps in and installed the mantis protectors so my ramps wouldnt get chewed up like the originals were. They went in easy, and I actually like the way they look.

I agree - they look good and install pretty easily. There is a right and left side to them so if you get a pair make sure you install them with the long tab/ear on the ramp side and the short tab/ear on the lock-No Way Out side. I learned the hard way

#797 5 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Yeah, from the bottom. IF, I remember right, I had to do four new holes for the mantis protectors and then I also think I had to move the actual targets back too and drill new holes for that. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on the need to slightly relocate the targets. It's been a few years.

I didn't have to relocate my targets as they were already as far forward as they could go. I could see how that may differ from game to game though as there's a lot of room (without the protector) and could lead to variation on the assembly line

#798 5 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

I didn't have to relocate my targets as they were already as far forward as they could go.

same here.

#799 5 years ago

Same here. Blackbeard, I would still do it. It may not get a lot of use, but the ball rockets up to those targets. One good hit...

#800 5 years ago
Quoted from mac622:

Do you guys align your upper flipper against metal guide or do you align it with the roll pin in the PF? I didn't notice the difference when I was tearing it down but when reassembling it last night if I align it with the roll pin the bat sticks out about 1/4" from the guide whereas before it was snug against the guide as in the picture. I'm sure this makes a big difference with the ramps shots so curious what you guys find is the best alignment? If this wasn't such a PITA to adjust once the mini PF is installed I would test it out to see what works best but since that's not the case I'd like to get it right before putting the mini pf back in. Thanks

UPF bat.jpg 233 KB

I have mine really far forward and it makes the skillshot much harder. Curious what others say. I would think you would want it all the way back.

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