(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

10 years ago


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There are 7,781 posts in this topic. You are on page 154 of 156.
#7651 3 months ago

At least you have the original topper, a definite plus!

#7652 3 months ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

At least you have the original topper, a definite plus!

Yup the dome is trashed but the actual marquee topper piece is in good shape! It's not a White Water without that shimmering topper

#7653 3 months ago

This game was actually bought new by the company I work. Here's the service notes dating back to 1993. Scott still works here . Nice to have a little piece of history of a company that's been really a pleasure to work for.

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#7654 3 months ago
Quoted from 10redzr1:

Just got my dream white water.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I was on the fence about doing chrome trim for my White Water but your game sold it for me. Looks great.

#7655 3 months ago

I did one a few years ago. this might help you...

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gJEsNWnJrA6pn

Quoted from Knxwledge:

Ive officially joined the club! It's not gonna be an easy ride though. It's complete but the top playfield is 95% disassembled and sitting in boxes. Excellent original playfield, cabinet has typical wear.
The game was booting up but would keep resetting before it could get to attract. I changed caps and bridges on the driver board and that fixed it.
I plan to do a full restore eventually but first I'll focus on getting the game reassembled (new ramps, boulders, plastics, Cliffys, LEDs, etc). Eventually will do Radcals, chrome side rails, lockdown bar and legs I think.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

#7656 3 months ago

I am troubleshooting a problem with my machine and want to see if swapping PCBs will fix it to help narrow down the problem. Is it possible to swap a power driver board from a Williams Indiana Jones into a White Water? The boards look very similar except for a large relay near the bank of 5 fuses on the White Water board.

#7657 3 months ago

yah those relays aren't used

#7658 3 months ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

I was on the fence about doing chrome trim for my White Water but your game sold it for me. Looks great.

I had a Chestnut restore that had new decals and full chrome package including the metal piece right below the topper and it looked amazing.

#7659 3 months ago

Purchased a Whitewater about a month ago and I noticed that the whirlpool ejector assembly is shooting the ball right where the right flipper and right flipper ball guide meet. This leads to an out lane drain on the left pretty much every time. I loosened the ejector and tried to rotate it a bit so it would shoot at the right flipper but I didn't really have much room to play with so this wasn't an option. Looked up the manual and it says the stock coil for the ejector is the AE-26-800 which is what is there now. After googling to see if anyone else had this issue I came across 2 posts that reference switching this coil out to an AE-25-1200 and this fixed those peoples issues.

I am thinking about giving this a go but before I do, I wanted to ask this group if this was the definitive answer for this problem? I have checked and made sure the machine is level, which I verified with a digital level. I installed new rubbers on the flippers and put in new balls. I just don't know what else I should be checking before changing out the coil. Also, how difficult is a coil swap? Can I interchange the armature and spring just switch out the coil itself? I have some soldering experience but I am not an EE major and this is my first pinball machine so I am hesitant to start changing things up under the playfield.

#7660 3 months ago

Well, changing the coil is certainly a "possible" solution to the problem, but it is "definitive".

Unfortunately, every machine is a bit different. Changing the coil is not hard to do, you can use all the same hardware with the other coil. You do have to solder the new one in - but it's pretty basic.

There are a couple of other things you can try first that might be a bit easier...
1) you can either increase or decrease the pitch of the machine
2) you can be sure that you are not missing the little rubber grommet that the kicker plunger rests on - many WH20 machines got shipped with that missing.
3) you can use a piece of felt (or similar) material on the inside of the kicker housing to alter the path/spin of the ball as it gets ejected.

I do wish that the designers had included a better way to adjust the kickout. I (and many others) have had a similar issue on my Monster Bash. It seems like just slotted mounting holes for the kicker bracket would have been helpful.

#7661 3 months ago
Quoted from PinBotJay:

Purchased a Whitewater about a month ago and I noticed that the whirlpool ejector assembly is shooting the ball right where the right flipper and right flipper ball guide meet. This leads to an out lane drain on the left pretty much every time. I loosened the ejector and tried to rotate it a bit so it would shoot at the right flipper but I didn't really have much room to play with so this wasn't an option. Looked up the manual and it says the stock coil for the ejector is the AE-26-800 which is what is there now. After googling to see if anyone else had this issue I came across 2 posts that reference switching this coil out to an AE-25-1200 and this fixed those peoples issues.
I am thinking about giving this a go but before I do, I wanted to ask this group if this was the definitive answer for this problem? I have checked and made sure the machine is level, which I verified with a digital level. I installed new rubbers on the flippers and put in new balls. I just don't know what else I should be checking before changing out the coil. Also, how difficult is a coil swap? Can I interchange the armature and spring just switch out the coil itself? I have some soldering experience but I am not an EE major and this is my first pinball machine so I am hesitant to start changing things up under the playfield.

Have you tried installing a washer(s) between the scoop assembly and the playfield and then tightening down the screws again? Just a small change in eject angle could solve the issue. Perhaps one or two on the player’s side of the scoop?

#7662 3 months ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:Well, changing the coil is certainly a "possible" solution to the problem, but it is "definitive".
Unfortunately, every machine is a bit different. Changing the coil is not hard to do, you can use all the same hardware with the other coil. You do have to solder the new one in - but it's pretty basic.
There are a couple of other things you can try first that might be a bit easier...
1) you can either increase or decrease the pitch of the machine
2) you can be sure that you are not missing the little rubber grommet that the kicker plunger rests on - many WH20 machines got shipped with that missing.
3) you can use a piece of felt (or similar) material on the inside of the kicker housing to alter the path/spin of the ball as it gets ejected.
I do wish that the designers had included a better way to adjust the kickout. I (and many others) have had a similar issue on my Monster Bash. It seems like just slotted mounting holes for the kicker bracket would have been helpful.

Thank you for the fast response I will look into the felt that may help divert the ball.

#7663 3 months ago
Quoted from EEE:

Have you tried installing a washer(s) between the scoop assembly and the playfield and then tightening down the screws again? Just a small change in eject angle could solve the issue. Perhaps one or two on the player’s side of the scoop?

I like this idea as well. I think trying to play with the angle may help and is something I can put on really quick to test. Thank you for the idea. It is just interesting to me that the og coil is so strong and has drifted to were it hits a point that leads to a drain. So much so we have to avoid the whirlpool as much as possible.

#7664 3 months ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Well, changing the coil is certainly a "possible" solution to the problem, but it is "definitive".

Wow, bad typing on my part...it should have said NOT "definitive". Sorry if it was unclear...

Just so you know, changing the coil could be a great solution, or might make it even worse - it could kick the ball right down the middle.
Every machine is different, so you never know. All the more reason that they should have originally included some sort of adjustment method.

#7665 3 months ago

Looking to join this fine club, all I need is a WH2O. Philly burbs.

#7666 3 months ago
Quoted from poppapin:

Looking to join this fine club, all I need is a WH2O. Philly burbs.

Me to! Buffalo NY.

#7667 3 months ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

I was on the fence about doing chrome trim for my White Water but your game sold it for me. Looks great.

Thank you Sir!

#7668 3 months ago
Quoted from PinBotJay:

Purchased a Whitewater about a month ago and I noticed that the whirlpool ejector assembly is shooting the ball right where the right flipper and right flipper ball guide meet. This leads to an out lane drain on the left pretty much every time. I loosened the ejector and tried to rotate it a bit so it would shoot at the right flipper but I didn't really have much room to play with so this wasn't an option. Looked up the manual and it says the stock coil for the ejector is the AE-26-800 which is what is there now. After googling to see if anyone else had this issue I came across 2 posts that reference switching this coil out to an AE-25-1200 and this fixed those peoples issues.
I am thinking about giving this a go but before I do, I wanted to ask this group if this was the definitive answer for this problem? I have checked and made sure the machine is level, which I verified with a digital level. I installed new rubbers on the flippers and put in new balls. I just don't know what else I should be checking before changing out the coil. Also, how difficult is a coil swap? Can I interchange the armature and spring just switch out the coil itself? I have some soldering experience but I am not an EE major and this is my first pinball machine so I am hesitant to start changing things up under the playfield.

I put a a few rubber rings on the coil plunger to soften the throw. Cheap and easy. That helped my game where the kickout was too fast and often resulted in drains. Try that before replacing coil.

#7669 3 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I put a a few rubber rings on the coil plunger to soften the throw. Cheap and easy. That helped my game where the kickout was too fast and often resulted in drains. Try that before replacing coil.

Interesting idea. Maybe I will give that a try too.

I've also wondered if there are some different strengths of springs that could be used for the plunger.
The manual specs a 10-135 spring. Are there similar (stronger or weaker) springs that could be used instead?

There is a 10-399 spring that looks similar, but I am not familiar with how springs are spec'd (do the numbers actually mean something in regard to size/strength?). Looking at Marcos, they have lots of similar looking springs but they don't list their actual sizes, so it is hard to tell which ones might work (the pictures don't provide a reasonable size reference).

#7670 3 months ago

Well, I tried putting a rubber ring around the bottom of the plunger, but that made the mechanism unable to successfully kick-up the ball.
I still wonder if there would be an alternate spring that would work better.

#7671 3 months ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Interesting idea. Maybe I will give that a try too.
I've also wondered if there are some different strengths of springs that could be used for the plunger.
The manual specs a 10-135 spring. Are there similar (stronger or weaker) springs that could be used instead?
There is a 10-399 spring that looks similar, but I am not familiar with how springs are spec'd (do the numbers actually mean something in regard to size/strength?). Looking at Marcos, they have lots of similar looking springs but they don't list their actual sizes, so it is hard to tell which ones might work (the pictures don't provide a reasonable size reference).

I have some 10–326s on hand you’re welcome to swing by and grab some

#7672 3 months ago

Thought I would jump in as well. I added two rubber rings to the bottom of the plunger and it was somewhat successful. I added one rubber ring and it didn't change anything then I added another rubber ring and that seemed to do the trick. The ball still hits where the right flipper and rail meet, but its so dampened that it just bounces to the left slingshot. Its not perfect but at least it isn't draining every time I hit the whirlpool. I am still leaning towards going to the weaker coil and have placed an order for that so we will see. This fix at least lets us still play till I can come up with a better solution. Thank you for all your suggestions.

#7673 3 months ago

I put the weaker coil in years ago. Works like a charm.

#7674 3 months ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

I put the weaker coil in years ago. Works like a charm.

Yes, I had the same issue with my WH2O back in November of 2010. I swapped out the ‘Lost Mine’ coil for a slightly less powerful coil (26-1500) and the kickouts now hit the lower right flipper right in the middle. The stock coil basically is way too powerful as it would ALWAYS hit above the lower right flipper and would ricochet straight back down the left out lane much of the time.

Here is the coil size from Pinball Life that I installed back then and it fixed my issue.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ae-26-1500-coil.html

Gord

#7675 3 months ago

hoping to join the club shortly!

#7676 87 days ago

I have two original toppers. One with a dome and one with out. They aren’t perfect but what do you think they are worth? I know the remakes are not as good as I used to have one and I’m sure these don’t come up often

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#7677 87 days ago

put it on ebay and find out

#7678 86 days ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

put it on ebay and find out

I will if I dont sell it here. I sold the one already and still have the second with a dome.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/168969

Here is the other if anyone is interested. Feel free to make an offer.

#7679 85 days ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

I will if I dont sell it here. I sold the one already and still have the second with a dome.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/168969
Here is the other if anyone is interested. Feel free to make an offer.

Very fair price. These never come up.

#7680 85 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Very fair price. These never come up.

Never realized these would actually sell that quickly for this high. Would have considered $500 for a nice version a fair price, but a grand… yikes

Sticking with this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-topper-poor-mans-version

#7681 85 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Never realized these would actually sell that quickly for this high. Would have considered $500 for a nice version a fair price, but a grand… yikes
Sticking with this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-topper-poor-mans-version

I tried the poor man version a while back and that decal is so cheap it was hard to put on the slide and the glue if it wasn’t perfect to the water it dissolved the art if I tried to fix it. That was my experience. Still doesn’t have the reflection like the originals. I can see why now that I actually have owned one but it’s definitely not a bad alternative if you don’t want to spend the money and are ok with the way it looks. If I had to do it again I would have tried the wet method to put it on and a little more patience with the glue. I suck at that stuff so hopefully yours turns out better. I would buy two decals just in case as they are thin and stretchy. If they used the same material stern does for art blades i feel like it would of gone much better

#7682 85 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Very fair price. These never come up.

Thanks, I couldn’t find many examples or even a previously sold on eBay. There was just some threads about people paying $600 back 6 years ago and then another person had a wanted ad for $1200 a couple months ago which he said he paid. So I priced it somewhat in the middle of that. Unfortunately, I am selling these for a family friend whose husband passed away so trying to get her some decent money. I’m definitely open to offers but I’ll probably put this one on eBay tonight. I always like to try to sell things here to pinsiders first.

#7683 81 days ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

I have two original toppers. One with a dome and one with out. They aren’t perfect but what do you think they are worth? I know the remakes are not as good as I used to have one and I’m sure these don’t come up often
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Glad I was on vacation and missed this. I would have paid over $1k for a nice one

#7684 80 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Glad I was on vacation and missed this. I would have paid over $1k for a nice one

It’s good to know what the market is on these

I won’t be getting one, as it just seems too highly priced, but you never know what you’re willing to do, once you own the game and don’t have one

Go the glitter route man!

ShinyShiny

#7685 80 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Glad I was on vacation and missed this. I would have paid over $1k for a nice one

Sorry, they both sold. I can see why they are so desirable. My old white water didn’t have a topper so I tried to make one. That shine/shimmer on the originals is pretty awesome. Hopefully some one can figure out how to remake them properly someday.

#7686 80 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

It’s good to know what the market is on these
I won’t be getting one, as it just seems too highly priced, but you never know what you’re willing to do, once you own the game and don’t have one
Go the glitter route man!
[quoted image]

I ran glitter for years, it’s hard to justify a pile of c-notes for a sticker.

1 week later
#7687 73 days ago
Quoted from MiniPinHead:

Never realized these would actually sell that quickly for this high. Would have considered $500 for a nice version a fair price, but a grand… yikes
Sticking with this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-topper-poor-mans-version

I bought one off ebay 6 months ago for $400 that was in way better condition than his.

#7688 73 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

I bought one off ebay 6 months ago for $400 that was in way better condition than his.

Thank you for sharing that data It'll probably March before I test the glitter topper on a chase board, but will be sure to post a GIF.

#7689 71 days ago

Does anyone use or not use this post in their game to pull a rubber across, blocking some access to the out lane (manual says to). Any thoughts?

Post missing (build in progress)

Post MissingPost Missing

RubberRubber

Measurement shows 1-1/4” rubber

Rubber Is 1-1/4”Rubber Is 1-1/4”

Example with post and 1-1/4” rubber

Example With Post and RubberExample With Post and Rubber

By the way, does anyone know how tall that plastic, black spacer on top of the pop bumper is? Thank you!

#7690 71 days ago

I’ve taken that post out completely. I like the risk of how the ball will exit the pop bumpers.

#7691 70 days ago

I also didn't install it. Plays better without.

#7692 70 days ago
Quoted from aeneas:

I also didn't install it. Plays better without.

Same, otherwise the ball will never hit that leaf switch below (only adds sound effects but may lead to test reports if not hit from what I remember).

#7693 70 days ago

Nice choice of blue and orange pop bumper skirts and bodies.

#7694 70 days ago
Quoted from EEE:

I’ve taken that post out completely. I like the risk of how the ball will exit the pop bumpers.

Thank you. Do you find the ball goes into the outlane a lot, or just sometimes?

Quoted from aeneas:

I also didn't install it. Plays better without.

Thank you! Anything specifically you’re thinking of?

Quoted from daveyvandy:

Same, otherwise the ball will never hit that leaf switch below (only adds sound effects but may lead to test reports if not hit from what I remember).

Well that settles it, definitely not going to be installed. Thank you

Quoted from Pinkitten:

Nice choice of blue and orange pop bumper skirts and bodies.

Thank you so much! HEP says the orange amplifies the light under the boulders/mountains. I like the translucent blue for the skirts, for a deep water effect. We’ll see how they look when lit up

#7697 70 days ago

Lighting vs regular flippers is the real difficulty setting as far as playfield adjustment's. Lame that the extra rubber in the bumper nest was ever added.

#7698 70 days ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Lighting vs regular flippers is the real difficulty setting as far as playfield adjustment's. Lame that the extra rubber in the bumper nest was ever added.

It makes people do all sorts of things

RubberRubber

For the large domed flashers on the boulders / mountains, is there a logic to when each one goes off? I’m curious if there’s a way to correspond red, blue, and orange dome colors (1 each) to action on the playfield.

FlashersFlashers

#7699 67 days ago

After more than a year of ownership I finally cracked a billion. I managed to get triple jackpots while 5x was running; the only painful part is that I was one locked ball away from getting vacation jackpot for the very first time.

IMG_9571 (resized).jpegIMG_9571 (resized).jpeg
#7700 66 days ago

Vacation jackpot is awesome. I’ve done it twice, about 2 years apart. Big scoring boost!

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