Please be sure you get the wires in the right spots and silver band end of diode facing the right direction.

If you don't. Besides switch matrix errors, this game is prone to resets if you wire them wrong.

LTG : )

You would need a rivet press to replace the target which most people don't have. I would suggest replacing both targets at the same time. The new target switches can be a slightly different tints of green than what you currently have. Better to get matching set.

If you need to build a rivet press, let me know and I can give you some part numbers for the dies to make one from an arbor press.

Since lots of people need toppers for some reason I thought I'd show my reproduction that I just got recently. I'd love to have an original topper but I'm really happy with this one. The billboard came from Marco and the decal came from treasure cove. I know it's not perfectly straight across the top where I put the decal on but I think I can straighten that up with some tape and an exacto knife. It was my first decal install so I think I did alright.

20230202_153833 (resized).jpg

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It looks nice for sure but you just cant beat the reflective feature of the OG topper

I'd still buy an original if I can ever find one. I'm just glad to have something up there for now.

I’m looking for an original as well, impossible these days. But I did find a nice original Bigfoot head with fur after looking for two years!!

When you place decals, use a couple pieces of tape like a hinge on one side or across middle. Line it up, tape the one side, remove half the backing, press the decal into place, remove the other half and press it down, remove tape, done!

I'm still looking for big foot arms!

No idea about the way to replace only the green plastic cover. It's certainly possible because I already saw the plastic and the rivet for sale.

Recently, I bought that and it looks strong :

Set of 2 complete targets:
https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=794

Replacement parts:
https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=12819

There is a bigfoot for sale on eBay in France

Check out Williams Pinball WhiteWater Original Bigfoot non testé, no tested on eBay!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175611581437?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=on8DgClzRna&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=ldzLWuzERG2&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL

You have to drill out the old rivet from the back, which will release the plastic face. Replace with new face, press new rivet. Very easy with a press once you do it a couple times.

What’s the value of a nice WH2O with a treasure cove topper? Game plays 100%, nice and clean, just missing it’s original foil topper.

I'd say between 7k and 9k depending on several condition factors. The original topper missing is gonna kill you on this title. So many people love it!

Agreed. Topper is special on this one, but the game is so good, it’s still a keeper with the repro. I always look for an example with a super clean, or resurfaced/re-cleared playfield. If the cab has some dings or fade, it’s ok, if the price is right. If you can learn to replace the cab decals and do it well, you can boost the value bigtime. Radcals are another nice option. But $7-9k sounds right, depending on the playfield, cab, boards, plastics and ramps (these are especially important on this title).

Does anyone know if Pinbits ever made it back to life? I ordered orange plastic protectors for the boulders a year or more ago, but they never responded. I paid for them tho!

Type pinbits.com into your browser.

I'd say you're screwed.

Well, maybe not screwed, but I’m out $20 bucks.

Pinbits received thousands in "donations" since covid started. They left the website functional, took payments, shipped nothing, ignored emails and disappeared. If you didn't hammer Paypal for a refund in time, you were SOL!
Pam was such a wonderful lady, and made quite an income from this community for many years! Hard to believe she would ever shit on everyone the way she did...

Bummer. Not very nice of them. Keeping your website open and accepting payments but not actually shipping items is probably illegal, even in this country.

Martin is older.

This is got me wondering if they survived covid.

LTG : )

That’s too bad about Pinbits. Pam was amazing and they always came through for me. I remember I was looking for a ramp flap set from them and they were sold out. I emailed and Pam sent me a set for free that she said she couldn’t sell. I’ve bought many things from them and always went above and beyond.

Thanks for the reply. Surprising... I was thinking it would be worth even less without the original topper but prices are pretty high these days.

As far as I know, they did... A few people local to them reported showing up at their house when they never received their orders... They were told that Pinbits would be back and make good on orders, but they never did. Being a home-based operation, there's no obvious reason for what they did, they had the perfect business to THRIVE during covid! But for some unknown reason, they went the other way! Hell, they should have sold all their business equipment and assets, i'll bet there's a dozen or so people here who may have bought it, myself included! I'm still kicking myself for not buying Comet and/or Titan when I had the chance!

Hi guys, hoping for some help here. Trying to instal a colordmd in my Whitewater and the instructions say to plug the 3 pin connector from the new dmd to J138 on the power driver board.

Trouble being, the j138 is like 7 or 8 pins and already has a plug in it.

Cabn't see any plugs with three pins and a blank an any of the boards.

What am i missing?

DSCF2084[1] (resized).jpg

DSCF2087[1] (resized).jpg

DSCF2088[1] (resized).jpg

Is the LED for the correct machine? Those instructions say WPC95.

E512092D-6022-4E22-A46B-2E118C3872B6 (resized).jpeg

You're looking for a header towards the top of the right side of that board from what I remember. If something is already plugged in there, the colordmd cable can be used to split it.

I used to have one of these reproductions and just recently grabbed an original. Just a tip on the repro, add some spacers and make the topper lean forward and it makes the waterfall effect better.

They are damn crooks. I met the owners in Chicago years ago and he reaked of used car salesman.

Instructions for W95 say J138. This is the +12VU/GND/+5VR header.

w95_j138_1.jpgw95_j138_2.jpg

Equivalent for W89 is J116/J117/J118. It is the same +12VU/GND/+5VR header.

w89_j116_j117_j118_1.jpgw89_j116_j117_j118_2.jpg

All good guys, went and checked my Judge Dread. It was J102 if i recall at the top end of the board.

Hi. Looking for a point in the right direction on what to try next.
Basically, my left flipper is dead.
I turned the game on and the flipper kind of "quivered" when I pushed the flipper button and eventually progressed all the way, but I'd say it took about 3-4 seconds.
Checked the mechanism and it's nice and smooth. Tried the flipper again and it performed the same way about 2 more times and now nothing.
Swapped the coil - didn't help. Swapped the flipper boards - problem is still there. Rectifier checks out OK. Contacts on EOS switch are not touching.

Now I'm kind of stuck. I don't have too much experience troubleshooting other than the basics.

What should I try/look at next?

Thanks.

Fliptronics board.

LTG : )

Swapped the board out for the one in my Road Show. Flippers worked!
Swapped the other one in to make sure - left coil locked and my color DMD was scrambled (didn't see that before).
Put the Road Show one back in. All good again.

Now the important question, which replacement?
Fliptronics II from Marco $140
or
Homepin Fliptronics board from Pinball Life $90

Is there a consensus on which is better?

Thanks for your help.

Have you considered the barakandl board?

https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-wpc-fliptronic.html

• Excellent pricing (cheaper).
• Excellent manufacturer.
• Excellent service and support.

Consider supporting the smaller manufacturers rather than the bigger box (mass) manufacturers and merchants.

Do the expensive one. Tried cheap one and had few issues .

I've never even seen or heard of them. Thank you for providing another option.

There are plenty of options available for this board. You just need to do a little reading and research and not stick to the "usual" merchants selling their partnered manufacturer.

• REPAIR is almost always cheaper than replace.
• Pinball Electronics from barakandl (USA) = https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-wpc-fliptronic.html
• Rottendog (USA) = ebay.com link: itm
• PindoraBox (EU) = https://www.pindorabox.com/product/fliptronic-1-2-board-a-15472-a-15028
• Pinled (Germany) = https://www.pinled.de/en/p/fliptronic-i-ii-board
• Homepin (Taiwan) = https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A-15028_A-15472-1

• Marco looks like they sell the Pinled = https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15472-1

I also make a board but I am away at this time and unable to build any of them.

There are possibly others available.

I’ll take that fliptronics board off your hands if you are dumpstering it…

I'm the same way. I like to rescue original boards if I can and like the look of them.

Longshot, but hoping someone might know what part number 01-11020, "brkt dual switch gate" looks like. It's a bracket for a microswitch. Anyone knows where it goes? Maybe it's under the main playfield?

Some hints... 1) it's not part of the upper playfield, 2) I don't think it's part of a ramp because it's listed separately from the ramp assemblies, 3) the cable for it is called "double ramp switch cable" in the bom

This is the switch/actuator for it...
Screenshot_355.png

It is part of assembly A-16099, "dual gate assy"...
Screenshot_356.png

You were so close.
Open the H-15994, then you will find 3 wires:
Green/yellow
White/violet
White/grey
This means 2 switches, switch 47 and 48. The bracket is behind/under the Lights Whirpool/Whirlpool is lit plastic/lamp assy.
Screenshot_20230305_004853_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230305_005128_Drive (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230305_005243_Drive (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230305_005738_Gallery (resized).jpgDSC_2122 (resized).JPG

Ahh man, I didn’t think to look at wire color, so obvious, thank you!!

Interesting bracket, I’ll have to fabricate that one. Thanks for pictures also. I guess it’s not part of any ramp assemblies because it straddles two separate assemblies.

top side tear down, full Cliffies, playfield protector, pinsound w/ endprodukts remaster, comet led with gi and insert OCD boards.

Currently my favorite pin

Quick question: this should be straight, right?

D77C1FDC-8E92-4830-9AA9-8D7757F1DC5F (resized).jpeg

Yes.

Does anyone substitute the red Whirlpool mini dome (# 03-8662-9) with a blue one (# 03-8662-10)? I'm just wondering if the red affect is necessary for conveying something (e.g., sucked down the Whirlpool)?

Also, I believe I've seen people do half blue sleeves (# 03-8063-1) and half red sleeves (# 03-8063-4), or all blue, for the actual Whirlpool 6-light PCB lamps, but am wondering again if red is necessary at all?

Does anyone use an LED bulb for these and forgo the caps?

Pic (resized).jpg

I left the flasher dome stock, but replaced the 6 whirlpool lights with ice blue LEDs. It's a whirlpool, not a portal spiraling down to Hell (which we all know is represented by red) I've never noticed an instance where they actually needed to be red. I could be wrong though.

Switched all mine to blue when i got the game. Looks good and for me blue fits the theme better than red.

Red whirlpool lights just follow the lighting schemes in Williams games.

I.e. Yellow to light an award, green for locks, red for jackpots.

Each whirlpool lamp lights for each ball ball shot to it during “ride the whirlpool.” Once they all flash, it scores a jackpot. They’re also the same color as the Boulder awards (and shooting the whirlpool awards a Boulder), so, if I were a betting man, I’d say that’s why they chose red bulb condoms in the whirlpool.

I really don’t think people notice the nuance in the whirpool Lights to count the balls until a jackpot is made, so blue does make sense too.