No problemo

I played a lot Whitewater back in France when it came out but man, "Multibille"? hilarious

If anyone is tearing down their playfield soon and wants to make an easy $100, message me

I'm not tearing one down soon, but I did recently (topside). I don't care about the 100 bucks. What's up? If I can help a fellow pinsider out, I will. Or PM me if you prefer.

Going to re-decal the cab this weekend i hope (pending weather)
any tips would be helpfull please.

is it better to do it dry or wet ?

wife is going to help me and she thinks wet is the better option as you can move it

was going to do the front first to line up the start button

There are a few good vids on YouTube of pinball cabinet decals being applied. One is a Williams Indy Jones, a vid from Australia, I think. Another is a vid of an Addams Family cab being restored. Both are good videos.

Wet method is far more forgiving than dry. Plenty of skilled restorers apply decals dry, but you need to have the cab sanded and prepped smooth, free of any dust or debris. I’m a novice restorer, having replaced decals on just three games so far. I did use a solvent designed for applying things like decals, but it evaporated very quickly, so basically I had to be right the first time. If you can line up the decal on the cabinet perfectly with the paper backing still on, then place something heavy on one end of the decal to hold it (like dumbbell weights, with something soft like a cloth under the weights to protect the decal), you can then lift up the other end and peel about half the paper backing off, then cut it off with scissors or utility blade. Then you can pull the decal tight at the corners and carefully apply it, smoothing out any bubbles after. Then you can remove the weights and peel back the rest of the paper, apply the other half. Then use a very sharp razor and while holding one corner of the excess decal, carefully run the razor along the edge, trimming the decal. You’ll still want to sand or trim 1/16 inch or so of decal at the edges, so the decal won’t catch and peel.

That’s just the way I learned how to do it. Lots of more experienced people here I’m sure can help. Good luck!

Look up HIGH END PINS on YouTube. He has a video series going right now of a Whitewater that he is restoring. In one video he showed and described installing cabinet decals. There is also a HEP thread in this forum

My 2 cents worth:
First, like PinKitten said, sand, fill holes and imperfections, sand some more. Paint your base color.
Once that's done, I like to position the decals and secure w painters tape on one half. Lift the half without tape and peel off the backing. Then take a wide putty knife with cloth over the end and carefully, gently press the decal into place. Start in middle, work outwards to eliminate air bubbles. Remove painters tape from second half and repeat. I do this dry, no sprays necessary. I too have only done a handful, but this method is easy enough and looks great.

My game has started making weird sounds during attract mode, randomly. I do have attract mode sound on, but it comes in a variety of messed up and overlapping tracks. Sometimes it goes away if you press a flipper button, sometimes it won't stop no matter what. Could it be a sound rom issue? Anything else to look out for? During game it's all good so far

First step, for me, would be reseat all the connectors and ribbon-cables.

I just scored a pretty nice original topper if someone is looking. Not gonna be cheap.

Someone was offering $1500 not too long in the thread. Maybe a page or 2 back. I almost considered it.

I bought what I thought was a proper topper along with boulder and full ramp set on eBay recently for like $800. It turned out it was the pretty useless TC non-reflective decal unfortunately. What are you thinking as I think I'd still rather the legit waterfall effect and I haven't installed it yet ether.

I've had my Whitewater for over 20 years, great game. However, recently I'm having an issue where the Start button works fine for starting a game but sometimes doesn't work for putting in your initials at the end of a game. Anyone know what might be the cause?

Who did you buy them from?

Did they advertise it as a original topper? I would get my money back from ebay. I currently have the remake topper on my game. If you mess with the angle of it you can get some reflective activity. I will try to post a pic. I am now not sure I wan to sell. It is such a cool part of the game and it is not in as good of condition as I thought so I would not get as much money for it.

To paraphrase Barbara Mandrell: Williams did toppers when toppers weren't cool.

Yeah I actually totally missed it said 'not the foil' version. I just read Treasure Cove version. Still the ramps and boulders were worth getting to refurb my machine.
fair enough and probably not much point in me going for another remake 'variant' after buying the TC version already.

Someone give my Yeti a home. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/140091

Looking for a WOZ DP CV or greenbacks.

For you electronics/circuit repair pros, what would a diode installed backward on a sling switch do when powered on? If other switches are wired in a chain with that backward diode switch, could it damage the other switches in that series?

(I’m just curious, surely this didn’t happen to me!)

It would act like a shorted diode and create a bunch of false switch closures on that row / column. Switches themselves really can't be damaged electrically unless you really run an excessive amount of current through it. The backwards diode should not cause any damage to anything in the game, it just won't play correctly due to all the erroneous switch closures.

Funny timing. My start button randomly works now, but is 100% in switch test always. I’ll dig into it soon.

Some good tips... I'd like to add / suggest:

Get an automotive "Tack cloth" to wipe:
1) area to be applied
2) the back of decal
3) the area to be applied (dust will fall off onto your body / head that's being decaled)
after you cut back the backing approx 1/4 length to expose the sticky side. You'll be surprised that by cutting backing possible small amounts of debris will be laying there ready for you to decal right over it.

Prep is most important (smooth as glass) and all edges / button holes painted.

I believe I read somewhere that the bulbs on top of the backbox (the ones that light the topper) were 12v as opposed to typical 6v GI type bulbs. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I could pull the machine out, remove the dome and test with a multimeter, but I figured I'd ask first.

Yes, regular bulbs will burn bright but not long, and LEDs will melt. I think what you want are 161’s.

Backbox topper bulbs are 194's.

Thanks! It was corrected almost immediately, just wanted to be sure it didn’t damage anything else.

Yeah what he said.

Hello everybody !
I will see a WH2O for sale on Friday.
I'm searching this game since a long time... and it could be the end of a long waiting time.

What are the major points to check on this game?
I know that boulders are broken. I will replace them.
The battery have been moved out of the card so no acid problem.
That's all I know...

It will be my first DOT, and my second pinball (first one is Space Shuttle). I'm excited... and afraid in the same time.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Christophe

Playfield can have planking, insert wear and wear at the lost mine kickout (a sticker to cover this wear is sold). Wear from the ball dropping on the upper playfield is also common. Of course the topper is a big item especially since no one has figured out how to reproduce one.

Thanks a lot for your fast answer, and thank you for all your advice.
Yes, the topper can't be reproduce. That was "heliophore" technic from Louis Dufay but it's impossible to do it in 2022...

Check ramps for breaks behind stand up targets and for breaks where switches mount to the ramps, especially under the upper boulder mountain plastic.

I read so many posts about NOT using 12v LEDs on the topper, but I just absolutely hated that yellow glow from the topper. So, I ordered a new dome and took a gamble on some cool white LEDs from Amazon thinking, it's worth a shot. I'm actually very impressed with the results. The waterfall effects look just as good or even better than before. I'm happy. Looks better in person.

I hate LEDs in this topper. Too abrupt, and not a soft transition to make the flowing effect.

That's what I read, and I respect that. BUT, I'm telling you, the flowing effect is still there. I didn't lose any effect. Just my personal experience.

Hello everybody !
That's done, whitewater is in my home after 2 years of hard search.

The game is in really good working conditions.
Just need a strong cleaning and elastics replacement to play perfectly.

I have just some "strange" parts on bumper and on some targets.

Picture 1: something is missing on right side (and also on left side). Certainly a screw and something else... could you confirm ?

Picture 2: not the good color of targets

Picture 3: not the good color for one target

For those 2 pictures, could you tell me the good way to replace the plastic part of the target ? What is the reference of the rivet ?

Picture 3: not the good bumper caps. Could you tell me the référence of the missig screws and how the boulder plastics are fixed ?

It could look as details for you, but France is a metric type screw country...

Thanks un advance for your help.
20221122_081419 (resized).jpg20221122_081445 (resized).jpg

20221122_081433 (resized).jpg

This is what I have

0E953715-4CD2-45A0-95CA-0C9A849435F8 (resized).jpeg

16CB0DB8-2BDB-4518-93D9-F3F85F4BDDEB (resized).jpeg

32FC9291-26B4-4663-9FFC-CAADAA43A43D (resized).jpeg

3848357D-8F28-495C-984D-DC1B8F1026AF (resized).jpeg

I'm curious if an LED OCD board could smooth those out?

A metal spacer is missing:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-metal-lane-guide-spacer.html
You also need a philips head wood screw, 3/4".

For the metal post, usually 6-32 x 1/4 sheet metal screw is required. Buy this kit, it helps a lot:
https://www.pinballshop.nl/playfield-parts/screws-and-nuts/big-bag-of-everything/?sl=en

No - topper light is controlled by Chase light board independently from lamp matrix.

Hey Bud - you can get new boulder sets from https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Whitewater-Boulders. Not sure if you can just replace the plastics on the targets. I had to replace mine completely and got the parts on either Marco or Pinball Life. Let us know how else we can help.

That’s awesome you got yours to look right with LED. I installed some in mine. Just didn’t look right at all and I lost most of the movement effect. Went back to the old school bulbs.

Congrats on your game! A good topside tear down (take lots of pictures!), cleaning and waxing is a great start. WH2O is a pin you can easily spend $2-3k quickly on rehab, but it’s also SO tempting to restore this pin. All the boulders can be replaced with new (so they match), ramps, plastics, etc. I would suggest replacing all your rubber rings with either a kit, or buy a couple boxes of assorted clear rings from Pinball Life (easier for people here in the states). Install new pop bumper caps (I like the transparent blue), and order new correct standup targets as depicted in the photos above by Zartan. You can get the 2 green ones for the lite/lock targets, 5 blue for RIVER, 2 white for hot foot, 3 red for lite kickback, and one amber for extra ball. It’s expensive, but even the cleaning, wax and rubber rings will really help. Good luck and have fun! Post before-after pics.

Howdy partners!

I need to ask for a huge favor: can someone scan this area in a high resolution for me please? I can't seem to find adequate images on the internet...
I will try to repaint and airbrush the drawing or make a decal if plan A doesn't work out.

Thanks in advance!
ww_kapot (resized).jpeg

Had our local pinball tech come by the other day to install a new Bigfoot motor, after all that work it turned out the motor they sent her was a dud! So now my machine is partway disassembled until the replacement new motor arrives

I'm really looking forward to getting it fully working again, after the Bigfoot motor it's just a couple of bad switches and a stubborn bulb so hopefully it'll be back in business soon...

I have this scan.

c13310f8a6b065c135c608f61b21c514cfaf6f6b.jpg

is this to size? I need as well

It's a jpeg file, so you have to scale it.

Yep, I opened in AI and PS and it needs to be sized. Still a solid image so should work. Thank you