Where did the water in the river come from? The frozen tops of the mountains. Plus you can be crazy https://trr.co.nz/blog/rafting-in-winter-on-the-tongariro/

As strange as it seems, I've heard that water sometimes just falls from the sky...

yes, often as snow on the tops of mountains that fill the mountain lakes that lead to the river valleys that are rafted on.

Spring rafting with the spring melts are some of the best rafting out there. Some higher latitude/elevation places will have snow caps until June. I would also add that the mountains that Big Foot has his arms around look to be snowcapped.

All that aside, still torn, will probably lean original. I like the way both look.

Playfield and backglass art looks more desert-like than North Pole.

IMO, it’s modding gone wild, but do whatever you want to your games.

That’s soooo funny. I had people complaint that our WH20 was broken because they would only full plunge the ball

12 volt sag. Insufficient voltage making it to the opto board. The optos are lit but not bright enough to register.

Go to switch edges test and keep those flipper buttons pushed in. One at a time disconnect devices from your driver boards 12v headers. I’ll bet you find that one of those 12v loads removed will cause your optos to become steady.

Obviously you will need to keep the header supplying voltage to your optos connected.

I just had this exact problem with my Dredd. It wast until I figured out which connector was causing the issue and then followed that wire to another inline connector that I was able to fix it. Simply reseating that in-line connector a couple of times cleared the corrosion that was causing the voltage drop.

Thanks very much for your detailed answer. I bet you are right. It’s intermittent too, so lately it’s been registering again, after I did some work on the playfield. So something is so sensitive, like a poor connection, it sometimes works and others it flickers. I’ll check all the connections.

I had this issue also. On my WH2O, the solution was the correct tension shooter spring. My kiddo would fire it SDTM on a full plunge. Either try a slightly softer spring that makes it easier to avoid going down the ramp, or you can even use a spring capable only of dropping the ball at the top. Makes it easier for kids. You could try a slight adjustment on your ramp trajectory, if you want the full plunge to go down the ramp, but not SDTM.

I received “next gen” cabinet decals for my White Water a while ago. Now that I’m almost ready to install them, I find them purple-ish instead of blue. The sharpness and colors of the mountains and Bigfoot are great though. Should my new decals match the blue I see on the playfield and old cabinet? I read somewhere that all White Waters were purple-ish when they came out of the factory, is that true?

Original is dark blue. In fact same blue as in Funhouse.
Can you post few pictures (cabinet vs new decals)?

It’s pretty difficult to get the right color on camera, but here’s an idea. Does this look like the right color? Again, the quality is top notch though.

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It does appear a slightly purple blue, but still looks very good imho. Are you going to fill, sand and paint the cab blue? White Water, Funhouse, etc., can look awesome when painted well and with new decals!

Yes, I’m actually about to accept the purple touch because it does look good. I’m filling, sanding and everything, that’s the idea. I’m also thinking about clear coating the cab decals once applied. I’ve seen a few examples in the forums and it looks amazing. Just like glass!

My wanted ad paid off. Finally in the club! Scored this beauty that wasn't listed for sale on pinside. @Pinkitten, this is getting a bit spooky man....lol. Machine came with pearl white 3 stage automotive painted armor. These are just 2 pics the seller sent me. I'll post some better pics once I have her set up and running.

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I’m looking to purchase radcals in the next week or so. Anyone have a set they are not going to use before I purchase thru Micro?

I agree.

Found one

Getting my WH2O set up. I have it at roughly 6.5° and pretty level side to side. Is it normal for this title to be so damn airball crazy?! It's insanity! I've never witnessed so many airballs bouncing off of targets every damn where. If you don't make your shot, airball. Doesn't matter if the ball hits a stand-up, a post, or something else, it's an airball. This can't be normal. I'm wondering if the flipper coils have been swapped out to some crazy strong value. Any ideas??

Looks like FL-11629 blue coils were stock, and according to Pinballlife.com charts, that's the strongest ones. They seem so overpowered.

Here is what works nicely otherwise-

Lower left: FL-15411 (orange)
Lower right: FL-11629 (blue)
Upper right: FL-11630 (red)

LTG

Lloyd is right (as usual!)
It’s common on White Water for people to dial down the coils and have different strengths. I have the 3 different coils noted above by LTG, and they all feel natural and get the job done with clean shots. White Water is that kind of pin too, you wanna be very specific about your shots to keep your flow, progress and control. Get that 200m bonus!!!

I'll double check the coils this evening. I do believe there are actually different value coils on it now. I'm just floored and concerned at how often the ball goes airborne. Last night, my daughter hit one of the green stand up targets just right, and the ball flew back almost all the way to the right flipper!! Ball bounced off the playfield, over the flipper and down the drain. Again, I gotta think this isn't normal

Had a second to look. My coils are just like Lloyd suggested:

Left FL-15411
Right FL-11629
Upper FL 11630

The blue on your old cab looks faded/dulled. I wouldn't use that as the benchmark. Decals looks pretty good so I wouldn't stress it. The blue should really pop and stand out. Love that blue. Not sure if it's nostalgia or what but just looks awesome.

I guess I'm going to try FL-11630 coils on the lower flippers. I feel like they should be plenty strong enough. Apparently no one else has this airball issue?

I get airballs too, but not to the extreme that you describe. Stationary targets, especially the bigass 3D ones create airballs in most games.
The newer the back foam, the more extreme to deflection. I see a lot of people ripping out the foam strip to reduce the bounce-back, which in many games cause the ball to rocket 80mph right down the middle!

Longshot- verify the position of your rubbers on the flippers themselves and make sure they are seated correctly. Also make sure your bat has the proper gap setting. If the flipper is too high/low and/or rubbers are too high/low it will affect the ball trajectory. I'm not a golfer but the analogy would be driver vs iron or wedge.

I'll be Rebuilding the flippers this weekend including new coils. I'll be sure and pay close attention to all those details. Thanks

Is te PF original or has it been cleared? Since I installed a cleared/restored PF into my MM, it's been airball madness.

Cleared original. I hope that's not the cause of it. My flipper parts should arrive today. Hopefully rebuild this weekend, and I'll report back. Going with 11630 coils on all 3 flippers.

Slowly and gently fighting hard with Mylar here!

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Mine is also cleared original, although no doubt each playfield finish is slightly different. I’ve been lucky, no unusual airballs on my table. I bet you’ll get the right coils in there and be sipping cocoa at Wet Willies in no time!

Reporting back. Flipper coils have been changed to 11630s on the lower flippers. (11630 is stock on the upper). This is the most commonly used coil on williams machines according to Pinballlife.com. Medium strength. Airballs have been GREATLY reduced, and the ball has plenty of zip to make all the shots with zero issues. I no longer feel like I'm going to break shit by playing my game. A solid hit on the green stand ups will still yield a bounce, but nothing like before. So, if you're having issues, consider the lower strength coils.

It looks to me that the new decals have yellowed. The tree that Bigfoot is holding should be green, not yellow.

This should be up and running in no time. A few issues on a board or two left. I purchased this in South Africa on a whim, in 2013. my third pinball and one I remembered from my youth. It hasn’t really worked right from the start, so I’m hoping to soon play the game I’ve had the longest without having a single full game on it throughout the years. Have had Brian Allen side blades rolled up in the box for almost two years and apparently that’s not very good for them, so I hope to at least have those in by this weekend and cross my fingers they’re problem free. Pop bumper lights left to be replaced and a warm white strip will be added to light up the back board mountain.

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First time in ever (almost a decade) that I got to see my topper lit and working. It’s beautiful. Got a few bulbs to replace up there, but all in all this game is almost ready to be played.

One problem left to figure out. Weak flippers! Replaced boards from my TZ, and the problem persists so that’s not it. Any idea what to look for next? Everything is working, but they lack any ability to get the ball half way up the pf or hit the ramps from the upper flipper. I have one of those daughter boards installed, without it the game just resets constantly. Thanks!

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Got the right flipper springs in there?
Coil stops and coil sleeves look good?
Maybe needs a flipper rebuild?

Agreed. Do a flipper rebuild. Sleeves, coil stops, etc. It's cheap and probably needed anyway. Also have a good look at the wires soldered to the 3 lugs. Make sure they aren't frayed or needing fresh solder.

I’ve already ordered rebuild kits and waiting for them to arrive but it seems like there’s
More to it. Will know more once they’re replaced. Thanks!

Is it all 3 flippers that are weak? Or just 1?

Edit: I see it's all 3 from your original post. Yeah, you may have a voltage issue going on.

yea that’s the thin yea that’s the thing all three are same, not like one is stronger or weaker than the other…. Going to rebuild all three anyway but it seems like there’s more to it than meets the eye

I agree. Unfortunately, if the game resets constantly without the "no more reset" daughterboard, you probably have voltage issues and need the boards looked at or worked on. That's most likely what's happening with the flippers.

For sale:

Real color dmd lcd
Rafting mods
Custom L6 rom
Blue shooter rod
Ramps were replaced
Additionnal boulders mods
Green targets protector for lock ball
New topper dome
New comet sunlight LED
New LED ocd board
New Bigfoot spotlight and hot foot mods
New brian allen translite artblade and sidearts (original translite included)
New decals uninstalled/included
Cabinet is in good condition with minimal wear but there is lock bar holes in front.
New kodak mod
New bigfoot yellow sign

No playfield planking(rare for a whitewater)

Plays like a gem

I can ship at your expense

Asking 8500$ usd

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Edit: Nevermind

My WH20 cabinet was restored/redecaled 12-14 years ago IIRC. Unfortunately, these smart leg protectors didn't exist at the time and I used the awful plastic "protectors" that were awesome at creating leg crinkle Finally decided to fix it and was really pleased with the outcome. Used a hairdryer to peel back the decal and then stretched and ironed out the crinkles by hand (then installed the smart leg protectors). Took 15 minutes and looks much better!

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If you haven't already, I would cut away the decal under the metal leg protectors. Otherwise you can still be prone the wrinkling.

Good job on fixing those wrinkles.

I need to do the same to mine - the only difference being somone else did all the work and put on the evil "protectors", nice job! How did you iron the decal back down after stretching it?

I got lucky...the decals were rubbery (not dried out) and the existing glue seemed to work. Just used my fingers to stretch and smooth. I had some "crazy glue" to help, but decided "less was more" in this instance. Considering the size of the crinkle, I was really happy with the result - those decals were done more than 12 years ago!

Transformers!