(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 6,818 posts
  • 565 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by billsfanmd
  • Topic is favorited by 263 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

7326EAD2-444E-425B-A1CB-A45B39BA0F6F (resized).jpeg
B939108C-1CB7-4FAD-8967-53A9EFABA7BF (resized).jpeg
181B62C6-5CE9-4058-9AC4-75A4E5A9DDE5 (resized).jpeg
D453EFA7-60CD-4068-A358-CFBBA5F27623 (resized).jpeg
D4B6F528-7A05-4233-9C8D-8155F83DA7A7 (resized).jpeg
E5714032-0C10-4F0B-AB0A-8B556C557ED9 (resized).jpeg
9450964A-A372-423F-A494-42049BC6582D (resized).jpeg
D4FA20BC-510F-4774-A3C1-A5D29DF4BF6F (resized).jpeg
9A0A6019-C448-4D87-A115-C33C2B358D55 (resized).jpeg
3BB4079E-9863-4A92-8C19-7213F893579C (resized).jpeg
13FA2883-0B3F-45B5-AC94-F049A7254B4F (resized).jpeg
21963064-4742-4E0B-8566-E8D9A5EB0678 (resized).jpeg
BD6C0E84-FC9A-4A63-8C86-327186CBFC39 (resized).jpeg
VideoCapture_20220719-101424 (resized).jpg
IMG_1321 (resized).jpeg
DSCN0151 (resized).JPG

There are 6,818 posts in this topic. You are on page 136 of 137.
#6751 57 days ago

Are you keeping or selling the Bumble?

Quoted from Pinoffski:I scraped some of the artwork off .
Vinyl is super thin?
Not like a next gen decal .?
Going to sand it off anyhow.
And put new decals on .
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
had it for sale
situation changed
will now make it better so no issues
re decal it and change it back to original
had the blue boulder mod with bumble

Added today: Thanks LTG still learning more about the hobby

#6752 56 days ago
Quoted from Pinoffski:

I scraped some of the artwork off .
Vinyl is super thin?
Not like a next gen decal .?
Going to sand it off anyhow.

I always use a heat gun to remove old decals. Sometimes you just heat & scrape small pieces, but sometimes you get a good edge and can pull off a large section. I've done 2 cabinets with regular decals and one with RadCals. I really like the RadCals because you can't wrinkle them during the application.

RadCal Installation01 (resized).jpg
#6753 56 days ago

this fit better

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/coindoor/pinball_coin_door_inserts.htm

Quoted from Pinkitten:

Added some art to the coin buttons…
[quoted image][quoted image]

1 week later
#6754 46 days ago

Unfortunately I am having an issues with the Bigfoot opto's. I reflowed the soldier joints on the opto board and that appeared to solve it, until the next time I started the machine and they stopped registering again. So I decided to order a new opto board from Pinball.nl, but unfortunately still have the same problem.

Taking a picture with my camera phone shows the Opto's are lit, but don't register. They don't register in test mode even if I break the beams with a piece of card. I have checked all the wires are seated correctly in the connectors and reseated 207 and 209 on the CPU board, but they are still not registering.
20220626_122220 (resized).jpg
Any Suggestions?

#6755 46 days ago

I guess that I would check continuity in the wiring that goes from the opto board back to the CPU. Maybe you've got a broken wire along that path.

1 week later
#6756 38 days ago

Anyone with a bigfoot or boulder shooting rod for sale?

#6757 34 days ago

Hello everyone. I recently bought a WH20, in the previous owner told me about this issue before I bought it. Now it's time for me to try to fix it.

The issue is, not all the time, but a lot of the time, at the end of a ball, it delays running the bonus routine. Sometimes for 5 seconds, sometimes for much longer.

I've done all the basic things, I've checked all the switches in test mode, made sure all the ones that are supposed to be closed are closed, and all the ones that are supposed to be open are open, everything checks out great. I have tested all the diodes, I did have to replace a couple but the issue has not gone away.

I know it detects the drain, because it will flash BONUS for a brief moment before throwing the score back up, then sometimes going thru a ball search or 2 or 3 before finally doing the bonus routine and continuing on with the game.

Any help and ideas are greatly appreciated!

#6758 34 days ago
Quoted from Ace8Track:

Hello everyone. I recently bought a WH20, in the previous owner told me about this issue before I bought it. Now it's time for me to try to fix it.
The issue is, not all the time, but a lot of the time, at the end of a ball, it delays running the bonus routine. Sometimes for 5 seconds, sometimes for much longer.
I've done all the basic things, I've checked all the switches in test mode, made sure all the ones that are supposed to be closed are closed, and all the ones that are supposed to be open are open, everything checks out great. I have tested all the diodes, I did have to replace a couple but the issue has not gone away.
I know it detects the drain, because it will flash BONUS for a brief moment before throwing the score back up, then sometimes going thru a ball search or 2 or 3 before finally doing the bonus routine and continuing on with the game.
Any help and ideas are greatly appreciated!

If it is searching for balls that seem to indicate problems with the through switches/optos for detecting the balls. Have you checked they work properly?

#6759 34 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

If it is searching for balls that seem to indicate problems with the through switches/optos for detecting the balls. Have you checked they work properly?

I sure have. When it happens, I immediately go into test mode and clearly see trough Left, Center, and Right closed.

I also just tried a factory reset and that didn't help.

#6760 34 days ago

Depending upon which ROM version you are running, for some reason, the word BONUS will often pop up momentarily when the machine starts a ball search (even if no new trough switch has been triggered).

So, it may not actually be detecting the drain, and is just starting a regular ball search. I suspect that one of your trough switches is not consistently triggering properly.

#6761 34 days ago

Check to make sure no other switches are triggering when trough switches are activated or any other switch in the game. Multiple switches triggering at once can make the game do funny things. You want to remove the balls and activate all switches by hand to see how the game responds.

#6762 34 days ago
Quoted from Ace8Track:

Any help and ideas are greatly appreciated!

I’d be willing to bet that it’s a ball trough issue. I know you said you mentioned that you tested all the switches, but I’d wager they’re flaky.

I had the same issue with my Earthshaker. It did literally the same thing: ball drains, does the end of ball jingle, but then sits and waits went through a ball search. All the trough switches tested fine too, but after replacing all the trough micro switches, the problem went away and I never had the issue again.

Sometimes they’re just finicky.

#6763 34 days ago

It was a switch issue. I just pulled the switch arms up a bit more. Maybe one was right on the edge of open and closed and caused some logic issues. Thanks guys!

#6764 33 days ago

Just upgraded my stock translite with a mirrored backglass from CPR. Wow...what a difference! Photos don't do it justice...even more gorgeous in person.

IMG_1283 (resized).jpegIMG_1286 (resized).jpeg
#6765 33 days ago
Quoted from Zartan:

Are you keeping or selling the Bumble?

Atm Keeping the blue mountains and bumble
I may put them up for sale at future date if i sell the game..

#6766 33 days ago

Just asking if it is better to keep the pinball original..
When you are redecal a WH2O

Black inside the cab and on the back of the lower cab..
Blue on the head box..

Have seen that some restorers paint it all blue..
Inside and out ..

Started to sand the cab back inside and out.

#6767 33 days ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Just upgraded my stock translite with a mirrored backglass from CPR. Wow...what a difference! Photos don't do it justice...even more gorgeous in person.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Agree! I replaced mine with a CPR as well since my original was scratched and stained up (literally look like someone spilled coffee on the back of it).

It really brightens up the whole game. I absolutely love the mirrored bits.

#6768 33 days ago
Quoted from Pinoffski:

Just asking if it is better to keep the pinball original..
When you are redecal a WH2O
Black inside the cab and on the back of the lower cab..
Blue on the head box..
Have seen that some restorers paint it all blue..
Inside and out ..
Started to sand the cab back inside and out.

I went with black to keep it original, but it should look good either way.

#6769 32 days ago
Quoted from Pinoffski:

Just asking if it is better to keep the pinball original..
When you are redecal a WH2O
Black inside the cab and on the back of the lower cab..
Blue on the head box..
Have seen that some restorers paint it all blue..
Inside and out ..
Started to sand the cab back inside and out.

Stay original: black cab, blue backbox. I also think the two colors look better than solid blue. I'm almost done restoring mine.

20220421_201641.jpg
#6770 32 days ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Just upgraded my stock translite with a mirrored backglass from CPR. Wow...what a difference! Photos don't do it justice...even more gorgeous in person.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The quality of the White Water mirrored backglass is very good. The only thing I wish they would do better on is the mirror effect. I was expecting mine to look more like the older Bally's mirrored backglasses in regards to reflection, but the CPRs are not a real mirror effect. It looks more like those mirror effect spray paints.

#6771 32 days ago

I guess I’m part of the club now after a long search!

The electronics look good and are pretty shiny, the ramps are not perfect but OK, the cabinet needs a complete make-over and the playfield… well, that’s what worries me. I have two options:

1// buy a Mirco playfield to replace the old one (and wait a year before installing it because it’s not cured??), hoping the drilled holes match.

2// carefully remove the big pieces of dirty Mylar (scary), clean everything, give the PF a light sanding, applying a thin layer of clean coat, ask a professional airbrush artist to do some touch-ups here and there and clean coat until done. Respecting the curing periods and sanding of course.

What is my best option? Is no. 2 even possible on a Diamond Plate or is that asking for trouble? Am I crazy to even try this on a WPC?

BF775522-1C91-4679-8277-52618A7AABA0 (resized).jpeg
#6772 32 days ago

Diamond plate I’d give much better odds with removing Mylar, unless you got planking or some other odd damage. Not a problem to remove Mylar, touch up and restore an original. Option #2 is a good one, but depending on who you go with and how much touch up, mirco might be a better gamble, and like you say who knows what you get with the clear, I’ve had good luck myself.

#6773 32 days ago

I have another question: how do people clean Bigfoot’s fur? Hahaha! No really.

#6774 32 days ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

I have another question: how do people clean Bigfoot’s fur? Hahaha! No really.

Shampoo

#6775 31 days ago

2nd time in a week, flashers fuse blows.

Any idea what could be the problem?

#6776 31 days ago
Quoted from Paseb:

2nd time in a week, flashers fuse blows.
Any idea what could be the problem?

Bulbs?

#6777 31 days ago
Quoted from Paseb:

2nd time in a week, flashers fuse blows.
Any idea what could be the problem?

Short in the socket(s). Check each socket carefully. Bet one has a small piece (like a strand) of wire in it. Pulled my hair out chasing something like that down in an AFM.

Edit: only applies if it takes a bit for the fuse to go. If it pops right away something else is amiss.

#6778 28 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Short in the socket(s). Check each socket carefully. Bet one has a small piece (like a strand) of wire in it. Pulled my hair out chasing something like that down in an AFM.
Edit: only applies if it takes a bit for the fuse to go. If it pops right away something else is amiss.

I had a similar issue with GI blowing a fuse. Only way to find bad socket was to one by one remove from daisy chain. Then bingo found shorted socket

#6779 23 days ago

I have an original White Water Topper complete (Dome / arched frame and metal etched decal). Curious what you feel it's worth?

I'll be selling it soon.

Thanks for your input.

Kerry

#6780 23 days ago

I bought one for $500 a year or Ago. But have heard higher numbers.

#6781 23 days ago

I would imagine the value would be between $500 and $1000. Depends greatly on the condition of the sticker and how wrinkled it is.

#6782 23 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I have an original White Water Topper complete (Dome / arched frame and metal etched decal). Curious what you feel it's worth?
I'll be selling it soon.
Thanks for your input.
Kerry

Post som pics Kerry!

I may be interested depending on condition.

#6783 23 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

I have an original White Water Topper complete (Dome / arched frame and metal etched decal). Curious what you feel it's worth?
I'll be selling it soon.
Thanks for your input.
Kerry

In this crazy market I think you will find a buyer at or near $1K especially if it's in perfect, non-wrinkled condition.

#6784 23 days ago

Thanks Guys for your input.

I'll try to get some picts posted today.

Kerry

#6785 23 days ago

White Water topper pictures.

Note: the dome is in nice condition however, they can be purchased brand new at Planetary Pinball $115 or at Marco $150, plus shipping
DSCN0151 (resized).JPGDSCN0166 (resized).JPG

#6786 23 days ago

Interesting to compare mine with yours. I always thought the bubbles were a defect. Looks like it was part of the design I guess. Yours has almost identical bubbles on the left side.

IMG_1321 (resized).jpeg
#6787 23 days ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Interesting to compare mine with yours. I always thought the bubbles were a defect. Looks like it was part of the design I guess. Yours has almost identical bubbles on the left side.
[quoted image]

No, it was not part of the design and a perfect one does not have the bubble in it. However an OG with a bubble is still way better than any other option developed so far, and possibly forever based on how hard this seems to be to recreate. With a bubble like that I would think you're looking at $500 max but again, who knows what someone may be willing to pay.

I've read of some people having luck using a hypodermic needle to pull the air out and reduce the bubble but I'm not that brave and believe it would still be wrinkled anyway.

#6788 23 days ago

Yeah, I can confirm that they don't all have those bubbles, odd that those are in the same spot though.

#6789 23 days ago

No, the bubbles were not part of the design, though a great many (most?) of them do have bubbles.

I do wonder why it seemed to be so difficult to get it on "cleanly". I don't know why it would be harder than applying any other decal, but maybe there is something about that material that made it harder to get right.

I also find it amusing that almost all Whitewaters have the same scratches on the top right side, just below the topper (from the post screws hitting it when the playfield gets raised).

#6790 23 days ago

The bubbles weren't there from the factory. They were caused by the heat of the incandescent bulbs warping the material after several decades. To try and get rid of bubbles, do the pinholes through the backside rather than the front.
VideoCapture_20220719-101424 (resized).jpg

#6791 22 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

The bubbles weren't there from the factory. They were caused by the heat of the incandescent bulbs warping the material after several decades. To try and get rid of bubbles, do the pinholes through the backside rather than the front.
[quoted image]

I see...makes sense (and thx for the info everyone). Did yours need to be repaired with pinholes? If so, looks great!

Did you replace your incandescent bulbs with LED's? Curious.

#6792 22 days ago

Mine has a wrinkle in the exact same spot.

Do not use or even try LEDs. They won't produce the same effect at all. Also, you have to watch the voltage as well. I had some LEDs in a Cointaker kit and they melted.

#6793 22 days ago

I see the light board for White Water topper available at Ministry of Pinball for around $30 which uses the less common 194 bulbs. I know another person who melted some bulbs swapping them for standard 6.3v in error.

BD6C0E84-FC9A-4A63-8C86-327186CBFC39 (resized).jpeg
#6794 16 days ago

Quick ROM question: do I need to worry about changing security chips etc. when upgrading from LH-4 to LH-5 or LH-6?

Thanks!

#6795 16 days ago
Quoted from Frogroar:

Quick ROM question: do I need to worry about changing security chips etc. when upgrading from LH-4 to LH-5 or LH-6?
Thanks!

Nope

#6796 12 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I see the light board for White Water topper available at Ministry of Pinball for around $30 which uses the less common 194 bulbs. I know another person who melted some bulbs swapping them for standard 6.3v in error.
[quoted image]

Hmmm, I'll have to check the voltages, but it's easy enough to do a step down board like here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-beacon-diy-step-down-voltage-regulator

#6797 6 days ago

I’m finally back in the club, I picked up a machine that was reimported from France, operated in the US and then it stopped working so it’s been in storage for a while since then.

it needs a few pieces to get back to being ready for the rapids.

13FA2883-0B3F-45B5-AC94-F049A7254B4F (resized).jpeg181B62C6-5CE9-4058-9AC4-75A4E5A9DDE5 (resized).jpeg21963064-4742-4E0B-8566-E8D9A5EB0678 (resized).jpeg3BB4079E-9863-4A92-8C19-7213F893579C (resized).jpeg9450964A-A372-423F-A494-42049BC6582D (resized).jpeg9A0A6019-C448-4D87-A115-C33C2B358D55 (resized).jpegD453EFA7-60CD-4068-A358-CFBBA5F27623 (resized).jpegD4B6F528-7A05-4233-9C8D-8155F83DA7A7 (resized).jpegD4FA20BC-510F-4774-A3C1-A5D29DF4BF6F (resized).jpegE5714032-0C10-4F0B-AB0A-8B556C557ED9 (resized).jpeg
#6798 6 days ago
Quoted from EEE:

I’m finally back in the club, I picked up a machine that was reimported from France, operated in the US and then it stopped working so it’s been in storage for a while since then.
it needs a few pieces to get back to being ready for the rapids.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats on your WH2o! These are fun to restore (but expensive) with so many new parts available. Don’t forget the green lite/lock targets! 2 for $22 with free shipping isn’t bad. Marco has full sets of mountains, ramps, plastics, decals. Pricy, but fun to see it come together! Good luck!

B939108C-1CB7-4FAD-8967-53A9EFABA7BF (resized).jpeg
#6799 6 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Congrats on your WH2o! These are fun to restore (but expensive) with so many new parts available. Don’t forget the green lite/lock targets! 2 for $22 with free shipping isn’t bad. Marco has full sets of mountains, ramps, plastics, decals. Pricy, but fun to see it come together! Good luck!
[quoted image]

I'm not sure if you know, but Pinball Parts on eBay is Mad Amusements. They have stolen tens of thousands of dollars from International Pinsiders and vendors. Myself and others have spent an immense amount of time trying to bring them to justice to no avail.

#6800 6 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Congrats on your WH2o! These are fun to restore (but expensive) with so many new parts available. Don’t forget the green lite/lock targets! 2 for $22 with free shipping isn’t bad. Marco has full sets of mountains, ramps, plastics, decals. Pricy, but fun to see it come together! Good luck!
[quoted image]

Pinball Life has them also, cheaper.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-green-transparent-standup-target-3-ddeep-rectangle.html

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
$ 10.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
$ 25.00
$ 27.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
There are 6,818 posts in this topic. You are on page 136 of 137.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, become a Pinside+ member!