Quoted from gunstarhero:Thanks again for checking Eric.
Still looking…
Check your PM's later this evening, I know I have one.
(Topic ID: 57710)
Linked Games
White Water
Williams, 1993
Topic Gallery
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Check your PM's later this evening, I know I have one.
Responded sir! Thank you.
Gloucester Township, NJ
Quoted from yzfguy:That's how it's supposed to play. It's a "skill shot" to get it just over the hump.
Quoted from pinballizfun:don't full plunge, you aren't supposed to, teach them.
I have a really hard time believing that Nordman designed White Water to always drain SDTM on a full plunge. That seems like a very poor design to me, considering 99% of the casual crowds playing in bars and arcades aren't going to concern themselves with skill shots.
I mean, even when I plunge a little too hard attempting the skill shot, it'll drain SDTM. There's no way the game is supposed to be like that.
I'll try using a medium spring and see if that changes things. I'd love to teach the kiddos not to full plunge, but they're not concerned about skill shots. They just want to bat the ball around a little and have some fun. Can't have fun on a game if they never even get a chance to flip at the ball!
Quoted from mbaumle:I have a really hard time believing that Nordman designed White Water to always drain SDTM on a full plunge. That seems like a very poor design to me, considering 99% of the casual crowds playing in bars and arcades aren't going to concern themselves with skill shots.
I mean, even when I plunge a little too hard attempting the skill shot, it'll drain SDTM. There's no way the game is supposed to be like that.
I'll try using a medium spring and see if that changes things. I'd love to teach the kiddos not to full plunge, but they're not concerned about skill shots. They just want to bat the ball around a little and have some fun. Can't have fun on a game if they never even get a chance to flip at the ball!
I have no idea what the designer intended but both mine and one at location both go sdtm on full plunge. Seem to be the standard for this game.
I'm 100% sure I have the correct shooter spring according to the manual.
Do I like the behavior? Hell no, all my guests complain about ball constantly going out on full plunge.
Quoted from mbaumle:I have a really hard time believing that Nordman designed White Water to always drain SDTM on a full plunge. That seems like a very poor design to me, considering 99% of the casual crowds playing in bars and arcades aren't going to concern themselves with skill shots.
I mean, even when I plunge a little too hard attempting the skill shot, it'll drain SDTM. There's no way the game is supposed to be like that.
I'll try using a medium spring and see if that changes things. I'd love to teach the kiddos not to full plunge, but they're not concerned about skill shots. They just want to bat the ball around a little and have some fun. Can't have fun on a game if they never even get a chance to flip at the ball!
On mine, a full plunge will send it down the ramp, but you can make contact with the left flipper and save it. I use a slightly softer spring so that only a full plunge will even make the ramp. A 3/4 plunge will drop behind Bigfoot for the skill shot, and anything less comes back to the shooter lane. Also, you can add the most recent ROM, which adds a ball-save feature. So you can save your ball that way too.
Quoted from Pinkitten:On mine, a full plunge will send it down the ramp, but you can make contact with the left flipper and save it. I use a slightly softer spring so that only a full plunge will even make the ramp. A 3/4 plunge will drop behind Bigfoot for the skill shot, and anything less comes back to the shooter lane. Also, you can add the most recent ROM, which adds a ball-save feature. So you can save your ball that way too.
The ball save on the home ROM is not necessary to save the ball. It does add a ball saver, but a full plunge direct to the trough on the older ROMs does not qualify the play field and you will get your ball back anyway.
Quoted from dsuperbee:There is a factory (or at least I think it is, as nearly every wh2o I have played has it.)
Its like a spring steel guide that mounts to the ramp. I can post a pic when I get home.
A factory what?
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I have no idea what the designer intended but both mine and one at location both go sdtm on full plunge. Seem to be the standard for this game.
I'm 100% sure I have the correct shooter spring according to the manual.
Do I like the behavior? Hell no, all my guests complain about ball constantly going out on full plunge.
That was always my biggest issue with Whitewater in arcades… we’ll before I understood the concept of a short plunge, lol.
Boisbriand, QC
Quoted from daveyvandy:Hell yes! Finally made it to the 2 billion club today
[quoted image]
Big score, congrats!
I Just got the game couple days ago, i need to figure what to shoot lol
Quoted from pinballizfun:The ball save on the home ROM is not necessary to save the ball. It does add a ball saver, but a full plunge direct to the trough on the older ROMs does not qualify the play field and you will get your ball back anyway.
I think that’s true.
Quoted from daveyvandy:Hell yes! Finally made it to the 2 billion club today
[quoted image]
Wow, what a score! I’ve busted the 1 billion barrier a couple times, but usually I run out of gas around 700 mil. I need to string multiball together with 5x playfield bonus more often, and hit all 3 ramp shots to start multiball. Huge points potential!
Forth
Quoted from Pinkitten:I think that’s true.
If the ball goes STDM and does not score any points on the plunge and way down it will ball save.
1 week later
Quoted from Paseb:What do you think of that blue for powdercoat? I dont know the exact color code but i think ive found something similar looking.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That’s a lot of blue, but it looks good.
Quoted from Paseb:What do you think of that blue for powdercoat? I dont know the exact color code but i think ive found something similar looking.
Way too much blue for my taste.
Ordered some ciffies for the top VUK, looks like it's a plate or something. Has anyone installed this plate at the top from cliffy, if so does it work good?
Quoted from pacman11:Ordered some ciffies for the top VUK, looks like it's a plate or something. Has anyone installed this plate at the top from cliffy, if so does it work good?
Yes, I installed it a few months ago. It was a little tricky to get on, as one of the screw holes was a little off, but with some effort I was able to make it fit.
It works fine, though to be honest, I'm not sure it really makes much of a difference in my case. Some people have problems with there being a divot formed in the wood there making the ball get stuck. I never really had that issue.
I only installed it because I had the whole machine apart anyway to replace the ramps and bigfoot mech, so it seemed like a good time to do it.
I have it installed on mine as well. I don’t remember having an issue putting it in, but it’s a nice addition. Covers up any existing wear/ball hangups/divots, and prevents any from forming in the future. Definitely worth your time to put in the game.
Quoted from Paseb:What do you think of that blue for powdercoat? I dont know the exact color code but i think ive found something similar looking.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That blue doesn't look bad but it blends too well with the cabinet art. I'm in the same predicament, trying to find a color for the trim. Brown would look good but it has to be a certain hue and tone, maybe something like an anodized finish. An aqua blue might be a good accent color too. But I don't know... the mirrored chrome or stainless steel finish seems to be the only color that matches well with this cabinet art.
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:That blue doesn't look bad but it blends too well with the cabinet art. I'm in the same predicament, trying to find a color for the trim. Brown would look good but it has to be a certain hue and tone, maybe something like an anodized finish. An aqua blue might be a better accent color.
please post some color from prismatic if you can!
im all hear
Yeah too much blue IMO .. game looks great in chrome but that’s expensive. Prismatic makes a chrome powder ?
Quoted from mbaumle:I have it installed on mine as well. I don’t remember having an issue putting it in, but it’s a nice addition. Covers up any existing wear/ball hangups/divots, and prevents any from forming in the future. Definitely worth your time to put in the game.
Any existing divots should be filled in and made level before installation. Otherwise over time the metal plate will form into the existing divot.
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:That blue doesn't look bad but it blends too well with the cabinet art. I'm in the same predicament, trying to find a color for the trim. Brown would look good but it has to be a certain hue and tone, maybe something like an anodized finish. An aqua blue might be a good accent color too. But I don't know... the mirrored chrome or stainless steel finish seems to be the only color that matches well with this cabinet art.
The appropriate trim color is stainless.
Quoted from pacman11:Ordered some ciffies for the top VUK, looks like it's a plate or something. Has anyone installed this plate at the top from cliffy, if so does it work good?
I have it, works great! However, you need to mind how it sits before you lock everything down... It can create an uneven transition gap from the plastic ramp to the upper pf, especially if you have a new repro "thicker" ramp... a slow roller will get stuck in the gap. You will tilt your game to get it loose.
Chrome for sure!
Quoted from Paseb:leave it stock? chrome it? white vein with the color inside ?
I bet that chrome powder by Prismatic is awesome. Plus, at $25 a pound, you need about $50 worth of powder for all the rails and legs, and door. The powder I chose from Prismatic for my FT was $45 a lb, so $90 just for the powder, before the labor cost. But it turned out amazing. I would think that chrome powder is a good option to get the look of chrome, plus the benefits of powder, for maybe half the cost of chrome. I hope someone tries it.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:a slow roller will get stuck in the gap
Yep. I have a transition gap after adding a thicker ramp. I’ve tried a few solutions, but I still get balls stuck about once every 3-4 games. I can launch another ball to clear it, or remove the glass. I can’t shake it free. I need to consider shaving the thickness of the new ramp down a bit at the end, but I’m nervous about causing damage.
Behind Bigfoot? I get stuck there quite a bit as well.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Yep. I have a transition gap after adding a thicker ramp. I’ve tried a few solutions, but I still get balls stuck about once every 3-4 games. I can launch another ball to clear it, or remove the glass. I can’t shake it free. I need to consider shaving the thickness of the new ramp down a bit at the end, but I’m nervous about causing damage.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Yep. I have a transition gap after adding a thicker ramp. I’ve tried a few solutions, but I still get balls stuck about once every 3-4 games. I can launch another ball to clear it, or remove the glass. I can’t shake it free. I need to consider shaving the thickness of the new ramp down a bit at the end, but I’m nervous about causing damage.
I added a couple small bits of mylar on the low side, staggered on top of each other to build it up gradually to the gap, then a longer single piece running over the whole stretch of the gap and buildup mylar. it solved the problem.
Part of this issue is just a pretty dumb design... If that ramp had a flap on it, this wouldn't be an issue in any scenario. I thought about just adding a flap, but I really didnt feel like tearing my freshly restored game back down again...
If I have to tear it down in the future, i'll have to remove the mylar anyway, then I will add a flap to that ramp to bridge that gap.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I added a couple small bits of mylar on the low side, staggered on top of each other to build it up gradually to the gap, then a longer single piece running over the whole stretch of the gap and buildup mylar. it solved the problem.
Part of this issue is just a pretty dumb design... If that ramp had a flap on it, this wouldn't be an issue in any scenario. I thought about just adding a flap, but I really didnt feel like tearing my freshly restored game back down again...
If I have to tear it down in the future, i'll have to remove the mylar anyway, then I will add a flap to that ramp to bridge that gap.
I made a flap out of a piece of a playing card I believe the King of hearts 
I fastened it on with tape and have never had a problem since you can't see up there anyway.
Quoted from Paseb:Glad how it turned up
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What's the backglass of your fishtales look like?
My upper flipper is suddenly noticeably weaker than before and struggling to make the ramp shots. Strange, because I checked it manually and it’s smooth, and moves easily. Still, I installed a new coil stop and sleeve. No improvement. The coil is an FL-11629 and easily made the shots before. What would cause a coil to fire with reduced power? Could it be the Fliptronics driver board?
Quoted from Pinkitten:What would cause a coil to fire with reduced power?
First thing clean the flipper button optos.
Second, even if it moves freely, remove the coil stop, slide coil and let it hang. Feel the end of the plunger - sharp edge or mushroomed ? If so rebuild it. New coil stop, new coil sleeve, new plunger assembly.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinkitten:My upper flipper
Quoted from Pinkitten:The coil is an FL-11629
The lower left should be orange (FL-15411). The lower right should be blue (FL-11629). The upper
should be red (FL-11630). From Ray Johnson years ago. Stronger in the wrong spots will bust up targets and plastics quicker.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:White vinyl sheet applied to the side and then screened.
LTG : )
I scraped some of the artwork off .
Vinyl is super thin?
Not like a next gen decal .?
Going to sand it off anyhow.
And put new decals on .
Resized_20220613_131804 (resized).jpeg
had it for sale
situation changed
will now make it better so no issues
re decal it and change it back to original
had the blue boulder mod with bumble
Thanks LTG still learning more about the hobby
Quoted from Paseb:My friend came over to help me installed the big foot mod and brian allen art blades. Very happy with both products.
Glad you like the Bigfoot mod. Thanks for the complement.
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