I'm shopping out my WH20 (replacing a lot of stuff, going to LEDs, etc). I bought a "Whitewater post kit" from Marcos that has a bunch of clear star posts and a bunch of clear "narrow" posts. It also includes one post as shown below.

I haven't been able to find where this post gets used. Did Marcos include this incorrectly? Or maybe one of the posts I currently have is incorrect?

Ideas?

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Looks like there is one in the market place

Yes, you are correct. I looked everywhere, but never thought to look for a post in the backbox.

Thanks.

It's a kind of stopper. It stops the backbox lightboard at 90 degree.

Wow, lamp boards and wireforms would be a huge head start, will pm you.

Biggest challenge is no access to a machine to reference, I at least have an addams family here though. I can build the harnesses. So I guess 5610-12835-00 transformer, big foot mech, guides, and other oddball parts will be the hard part.

I didn't build from scratch but did build from pieces, and no reference besides photos online and the manual and it was enough to get it done.

I need a bigfoot arm!

I can relate as I am trying to build a Doctor Who Pinball from parts. Lucky for me that I have a fully functioning one to reference. I have been sourcing WPC89 parts for a year now. The Transformer was an expensive hard to find, but I ran an ad. I got two people sending me pictures. I bought the first one, as the second one was asking why I needed one and wanted way more money.

I printed out the complete parts list off of the ipdb website ( https://www.ipdb.org/files/2768/Williams_1993_White_Water_Parts_List.txt ). I used a highlighter to color similar named parts on that list. Like MS - stood for machine screw, for example.

The lamp boards were hard to find, but after 6 months, I found a set in France and one in Argentina. Helps to have part number to google and find it on Ebay or Pinside in search. The hardest part for me now is the correct ball guides. Unless you find someone who recently salvaged the exact game, the unique parts are a quest for a holy grail. It looks like all the ball guides were custom made for each game, like the plastic ramps and wire guides.

Good luck on your search and be persistent.

Hay all! Back in the club I am about half way through the restoration now. If you want to watch me fumble along check out the Shenanigans here...

Feel free to offer up any suggestions! Thanks!

Welcome back. Love your channel!

It is awesome and thanks again Peter i'm still using the ones you sent me

Did Endprodukt ever finish his PinSound remake for WH20?

Thanks man appreciate it. Miss the Wh20 I sold years ago so this one will be staying

Yes, love the video so far. I'm in the middle of a shop job on my own WH20, and hoping to gain some insights from this.

You could have “Stored”it at my place! I wouldn’t have had to buy one myself!
Lol

Shenanigander ... I too watched your video. Looking forward to following your restore.

BTW: My WH20 topper does not have the mirrored type adhesive film under topper. However, my FishTales and my spare old original WH2O dome, white plastic decal back mount and original metal etched decal, both have the mirrored adhesive film under it. I may source that mirrored film out out and install it in my WH20. It may give more waterfall light effect in topper.

The metal foil tape heating contractors use to wrap seams in ductwork works great.

My original WH20 dome does not have any top foil or stickers on it and I've owned it since late 1996, and I doubt that it "fell off" before that.
So, I don't believe that they originally came with the foil on it.

Ahh right on! I'm stumbling through ok but keep expectations low lol

Haha you are not the 1st kind soul to offer free storage

Right on, thanks man! Ok good to know thanks!

Great Idea!!!

Awesome thanks. So most likely it never had the foil ceiling! You had that pretty close to new, very nice!

I haven't got a hold of Draino but haven't lost hope yet. Anyone have a spare "missing plastic" that he makes for sale? Or maybe the file/scan so I can try to get one made?

I'd also be a buyer. I have the decal on there, but it just isn't the same.

I even have the standoffs and longer screws on order in hopes

It's factory, installed onto the top of the backbox (not on the dome), behind the light deflector (below the bulbs).

Well, that's not what he was talking about. He was talking about the foil in the top of the dome like FishTales has.

Agree. As far as I can tell, my game is HUO, and also doesn’t have the foil.

I don't know Fish Tales topper, but he wrote:

"My WH20 topper does not have the mirrored type adhesive film under topper."

Those of you building a scratch game, how did you find a Bigfoot mech? This one seems like real unobtainium. I think this and guides are my biggest problem.

I kicked off my project with most of the mechs, made a few guides and wired from scratch.

Next time someone dusts the top dome of the topper could you take a photo of where the reflective tape goes--I still can't picture it.

A thread search can be helpful...
All this will do is light up more of your ceiling... 99 out 100 games dont have this tape anymore. The original glue dried up from heat and the tape fell off within a few months of the game being unboxed.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TYKFS8K/

Yes, a thread search can be helpful, but I could not find any photos trying to do that. Then again, I did not think to check the saved thread photos... Thanks for your post and observations.

Does anyone know if whitewater uses the same cabinet/backbox as other wpc games, except for that topper lamp space?

Pretty cool they made a special modification just for that.

The simple answer is yes... Aside from the modifications for the topper.

The tape is in between the lights and the decal, and lower than the bulbs. Due to it's position it reflects the light towards to the waterfall.
I have seen many White Waters, the foil was always there.

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I've restored maybe a dozen WH2O's over the years and everyone of them had the tape installed and intact.

Does the tape make much of a difference in the waterfall effect? I don’t have any on mine.

Good morning,
I’m working on restoring a whitewater and during my quick play test, I noted the ball,
Once it goes into the whirlpool, doesn’t make it all the way to the VUK. The original playfield had just a big screw which actually came through the playfield to support the subway. I used a spacer PN 03-8371. Didn’t see any specific mount parts in the manual for the subway. Is this the correct one to use, or should it be shorter to increase the angle and give the ball a little more speed to make it to the VUK. Game is currently at 6.6 degrees measured at the playfield.

My wife did make it one time to the VUK, but mainly the ball just sits at the turn.

Thank you,
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Assuming that I understand you correctly, I would think the problem is more likely at the VUK than at the whirlpool.

What exactly is the ball hanging up on? There shouldn't be anything there for the ball to be stopped. Is the VUK sticking up too high perhaps?

I'm baffled on the reflective tape inside the topper / dome.

I've owned 4 WH20's since the mid 90's and never noticed this until now from this recent thread.

My current one has no reflective tape in it (pict below). However, it was restored and cabinet head completely repainted by someone else before my ownership.

The 2nd topper / dome was given to me by my buddy who found a nicer one for his game. It didn't have the reflective tape stuck to the painted head, behind the light channel, in front of decal... however, it did have it applied to the underside top on the dome, like FishTales's dome (pict below). Note: it is not on a WH20 game, it's sitting on top of an arcade game.

I'm going to apply the tape somewhere... maybe both top & bottom? Thoughts?

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Wow! After doing mine once I think I am good for life on wh2o's Good to know about foil tape attached to the head. I will have to check mine. Did any have the foil in the dome ceiling? I think you suggested foil tape as an option before. Did you ever foil up a dome ceiling?

You were right, getting my flashlight, I could see it just barley stopping at the turn. Could push it ever so and it would go past. I thought it wasn’t going fast enough to make the turn. Seems the new subway is a little thicker and I had to open up the area just a bit for ball clearance. So that is fixed.

Now it seems the hot foot targets (both of them) aren’t registering in game play or test mode. Not sure if they ever did work before I did the playfield swap since most of the bulbs were burned out before as well as few others. Need to sort that out next.

I remember a couple with the foil in the top of the dome. I suppose many could have been replaced and no operator was going through the trouble of installing new foil.

I chose not to try it either. Looked like too much of a bitch.

Ohhh...that photo of the foil tape placement makes a lot more sense--think I'll give it a try. Thanks for the photo.

Is it not rolling down the subway or is it getting down to the VUK area, but not making it into the VUK? I'm working on a restore myself and I noticed the new subway I picked up from Starship Fantasy is a little too narrow, and the ball gets stuck as it rounds the corner to get into the VUK. My original Subway was in pretty good condition, so I used that one instead.

Yep, that’s exactly what it was doing and what I bought. I widened the plastic and tightened down the screws. Seems to be working. May actually ahve to shave a bit down, or reuse the old subway as you did. Right now it is okay testing correctly after that adjustment.

That makes sense. I doubt I will be adding any foil to my dome. I have a newer dome so it should be nice and happy with no decals

Anyone else have a bigfoot whose hand and face are a little tacky/sticky? I'm assuming it's the material breaking down. I thought i saw this mentioned at one point, but I couldn't find it.

I've an original WH2O (head has never been re-painted) and it does not have the foil. Probably a Friday production machine.

Yes. My wrist material (where fur meets molded hands) was sticky/tacky but wouldn't adhere to the surface. Same with part of the head.
I re-adhered with Loctite Vinyl, Fabric & Plastic flexible adhesive.