(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

10 years ago


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There are 7,781 posts in this topic. You are on page 125 of 156.
#6201 2 years ago

If it's a clean break Scigrip will make a very good clean bond... you might not even see it at normal playing position. But the liquid version is hard to use well. An errant drop on the back of the sign might even melt some of the printing.

#6202 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

If you want, you can ship them both to me and I'll take care of it for you.
No charge.

Thanks for the offer! I'll let you know if I decide not to do it myself.

Quoted from horseflesh:

If it's a clean break Scigrip will make a very good clean bond... you might not even see it at normal playing position. But the liquid version is hard to use well. An errant drop on the back of the sign might even melt some of the printing.

Wait, is there non-liquid Scigrip? I could definitely use some of that! I used the liquid version on a broken Stargate plastic and it did melt some of the printing on the back.

#6203 2 years ago

I used mylar to fix mine. Can't even notice it.

#6204 2 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Wait, is there non-liquid Scigrip?

I am not sure if this is exactly the same kind of solvent but yeah:

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/weld_on_16_cement/132

If you try it out let us know what you think!

#6205 2 years ago

looking for a WATERFALL SUPPORT FOR WHITE WATER (03-8745)

White Water support (resized).jpegWhite Water support (resized).jpeg
#6206 2 years ago
Quoted from algrande:

looking for a WATERFALL SUPPORT FOR WHITE WATER (03-8745)[quoted image]

Seems only available in Germany.

#6207 2 years ago

Going to look at a Whitewater this week to potentially join the club. Any major trouble spots or issues I should look out for before buying? Thanks in advance!

#6208 2 years ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

Going to look at a Whitewater this week to potentially join the club. Any major trouble spots or issues I should look out for before buying? Thanks in advance!

The topper can’t easily be replaced or repaired. A fully working original topper is always good. Look for wear on the playfield and upper pf, and behind the light/lock stand up targets up the middle. Cracked ramps. Good luck!

#6209 2 years ago

I have had the recent pleasure of playing this awesome game at the Crofton Bowling Alley in Maryland. Even though the playfield and ramps are grey with dirt, the furry guy does not move, one of the pop bumpers is Nono, it still plays well, even with a credit dot!

So with interest, I called the company that it belongs to and asked to buy it. The owner stated that it was a very collectible rare game that he would sell for $9995. I responded that if it was that valuable, then he should have someone take better care of it and told him of its issues. He laughed and said have a good day.

So the life of a routed machine is sometimes doomed.

#6210 2 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

What would be the easiest way to fix this? I bought a new set of boulders earlier this year, but unfortunately this sign got struck by an air ball and snapped in half. I still have my old boulder with an intact sign, but I don't have any riveting equipment or experience. I could try Scigrip, but you'd still be able to see a crack where it broke apart.
[quoted image]

I added a bit of clear caulking between the sign and the boulder to better support the ends of the sign. It was nearly invisible and is pretty cheap method to protect the sign.

#6211 2 years ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

The owner stated that it was a very collectible rare game that he would sell for $9995.

Sad. While it’s true that it is a collectible game, they made about 7,000 of them, and people are restoring many and taking care of them. Unlike that operator, who doesn’t care if people put quarters in a game that isn’t fully working and can’t be bothered to clean or service it. Then he doubles the fair value in a cynical attempt to hustle you. I paid $6,250 for a really nice example last year. Keep looking for a fair deal from a collector.

#6212 2 years ago

Alright club members, hoping to crowdsource a little advice.

Went to look at a WH20 today and am on the fence about it. Hoping you can help me suss a couple things out based on what I perceived to be its condition:

Topper: Intact, plastic scuffed, wrinkle in the waterfall
Cabinet: Decals faded in some spots, couple dings on the head, back leg levelers suuuuper rusty
Playfield: Diamond Plate, some wear at inlane rollover switches and shooter lane, no noticeable cracks in ramps or boulders, all incandescent, Spine Chiller switch not registering

Asking is $5000 plus whatever the repair shop needs to do to it to get up and running, which is a bit nebulous and I'll just set at $500. Between that and wanting to upgrade to LEDs, I am feeling like the price is too high, but wanted to get everyone's take here.

Regardless of price I am still undecided; I worry I might get tired of it (although can always flip it) given the more shallow ruleset. I walked away from the shop thinking I was out, but I've spent the rest of the day just thinking about how well it shoots and wanting to flip it again. I looooooove ramps and know this is a classic, but I don't wanna get in over my head with the way the market has been. Would love to know what you'd put at a value for this pin – thanks in advance for the assist!

#6213 2 years ago

I'm no good at playing price police, I'll leave that for others.

I will say that despite the rules being simple by modern standards, that game is bolted to the floor over here. The shots you need travel the river are randomized, so while you're always kinda doing the same thing... it's always kinda different too. And then you need to strategize around multiball and scoring multipliers. It works for me.

Good luck with your decision!

#6214 2 years ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

The shots you need travel the river are randomized, so while you're always kinda doing the same thing... it's always kinda different too.

OK this is a clarification I needed! So what you're saying is the first hazard won't always be Disaster Drop, for example, but rotates? Most of my play on this is on Pinball FX3 so I apologize if this is a dumb question.

#6215 2 years ago

If I'm wrong someone'll come kick my butt here but my memory is the hazards to shoot are varied, yes.

(Haven't played mine in a while because it's down and I've been fixing other games!)

#6216 2 years ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

Alright club members, hoping to crowdsource a little advice.
Went to look at a WH20 today and am on the fence about it. Hoping you can help me suss a couple things out based on what I perceived to be its condition:
Topper: Intact, plastic scuffed, wrinkle in the waterfall
Cabinet: Decals faded in some spots, couple dings on the head, back leg levelers suuuuper rusty
Playfield: Diamond Plate, some wear at inlane rollover switches and shooter lane, no noticeable cracks in ramps or boulders, all incandescent, Spine Chiller switch not registering
Asking is $5000 plus whatever the repair shop needs to do to it to get up and running, which is a bit nebulous and I'll just set at $500. Between that and wanting to upgrade to LEDs, I am feeling like the price is too high, but wanted to get everyone's take here.
Regardless of price I am still undecided; I worry I might get tired of it (although can always flip it) given the more shallow ruleset. I walked away from the shop thinking I was out, but I've spent the rest of the day just thinking about how well it shoots and wanting to flip it again. I looooooove ramps and know this is a classic, but I don't wanna get in over my head with the way the market has been. Would love to know what you'd put at a value for this pin – thanks in advance for the assist!

Do you have pictures?

$5k sounds reasonable… Why pay them to fix it? Buy and source help from here to fix it!

#6217 2 years ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

If I'm wrong someone'll come kick my butt here but my memory is the hazards to shoot are varied, yes.
(Haven't played mine in a while because it's down and I've been fixing other games!)

They are randomized, yes and that does vary gameplay quite a bit.

#6218 2 years ago

What keeps me coming back to this game after owning it six years is the flow. I've never played another game that feels as smooth and just keeps going. This game and I just get each other. Keeper!

#6219 2 years ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

OK this is a clarification I needed! So what you're saying is the first hazard won't always be Disaster Drop, for example, but rotates? Most of my play on this is on Pinball FX3 so I apologize if this is a dumb question.

Yes they rotate with popbumper hits.

If you're almost ready to start multiball and the hazard isn't a good award, shoot the bumpers until 5x playfield is lit

#6220 2 years ago
Quoted from JosephT:

Anyone else get upset when they see these machines converted to snow theme? Such a disservice to Dennis and Willy...

Lol

Quoted from onemilemore:

Alright club members, hoping to crowdsource a little advice.
Went to look at a WH20 today and am on the fence about it. Hoping you can help me suss a couple things out based on what I perceived to be its condition:
Topper: Intact, plastic scuffed, wrinkle in the waterfall
Cabinet: Decals faded in some spots, couple dings on the head, back leg levelers suuuuper rusty
Playfield: Diamond Plate, some wear at inlane rollover switches and shooter lane, no noticeable cracks in ramps or boulders, all incandescent, Spine Chiller switch not registering
Asking is $5000 plus whatever the repair shop needs to do to it to get up and running, which is a bit nebulous and I'll just set at $500. Between that and wanting to upgrade to LEDs, I am feeling like the price is too high, but wanted to get everyone's take here.
Regardless of price I am still undecided; I worry I might get tired of it (although can always flip it) given the more shallow ruleset. I walked away from the shop thinking I was out, but I've spent the rest of the day just thinking about how well it shoots and wanting to flip it again. I looooooove ramps and know this is a classic, but I don't wanna get in over my head with the way the market has been. Would love to know what you'd put at a value for this pin – thanks in advance for the assist!

Better snap it up. 5k for a wh2o in what sounds like normal everyday condition is a good price.

Topper: dome is easy to replace. A functional replacement decal is not. They have never been reproduced successfully. Most have wrinkles in the waterfall

Cab: sounds normal. Remember when this game was new the home collector market was damn near non existent. Leg Levelers rusty? Buy new ones. .75 each from planetary pinball.

All wh2o games had some sort of auto clear coat. Typical wear is at the ball drops on the lower playfield, where the ball hits the pf from the lost mine kickout, and where the ball hits the upper pf from the vuk. Spine chiller could need a switch adjustment or a new switch.

Sounds like a decent game. I would be more worried about the boards needing work. 12v and 5v section, battery corrosion, and the always forgotten cap on the bi directional board.

Seriously go buy it. 5k is a good price now.

15
#6221 2 years ago

There's 3 huge reasons White Water is never leaving my collection:

--Gameplay and flow is 10/10. It shoots like butter.
--Rules are always randomized, so no 2 games are ever the same, plus there's some fun strategic opportunities. Focus on Wet Willy or find a way to stack that 5x mode with multiball, bigfoot, or goldrush!
--The game has the best music package from any B/W game, and feel free to crucify me everyone, but I'd say it's even better than anything from the DCS era as well. With each raft advancement, the tune adds an instrument, and it gets more upbeat and complex as you make your way "deeper" into the game. It's easily the most interactive audio package ever put into a game. Period.

It's just stupid, plain, wholesome fun.

#6222 2 years ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Yes they rotate with popbumper hits.
If you're almost ready to start multiball and the hazard isn't a good award, shoot the bumpers until 5x playfield is lit

The bigfoot awards rotate with pop bumper hits but always start with the same one (Whirlpool) lit. The shots you need to hit (hazards) to advance the raft do not change until you've achieved them or moved the raft forward via hidden passage, etc but they are random otherwise.

#6223 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The bigfoot awards rotate with pop bumper hits but always start with the same one (Man Overboard) lit. The shots you need to hit (hazards) to advance the raft do not change until you've achieved them or moved the raft forward via hidden passage, etc but they are random otherwise.

Actually, the first bigfoot award is always Whirlpool mode (not Man Overboard). But yes, the lit hazards are different each game.

I've owned my WH20 since 1996, and have not gotten bored with it. $5K is a good price these days. If it turns out you don't like it (unlikely), you'll easily get your money back (and probably more).

#6224 2 years ago

Agree with others. Probably not going to do any better if complete and no serious issues. It sounds like it just needs to be shopped which is not that difficult. Leds should only be around $120-150 and easy to do yourself. Even if you put $1000 in it fixing it up, I doubt you will lose money when it's time to sell. It's a great game and wouldn't hesitate for a second getting it.

#6225 2 years ago

Absolutely love mine! It is definitely bolted to the floor!

#6226 2 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Actually, the first bigfoot award is always Whirlpool mode (not Man Overboard). But yes, the lit hazards are different each game.
I've owned my WH20 since 1996, and have not gotten bored with it. $5K is a good price these days. If it turns out you don't like it (unlikely), you'll easily get your money back (and probably more).

Ah yes, that's right and thanks for correcting me!

#6227 2 years ago

You are questioning a WH20 with a topper for $5k? For that price, I wouldn't expect it to have any topper. How they haven't sold it for $6k already is beyond me, even not working. If I was close Id snap it up, spend the $100 or less it needs to be working and sell it for $6500, but thats me

#6228 2 years ago

Good point and there is a lot of good people here. You can always ask questions. No matter, if you think it is dumb one. We all got our first pin once. Most of us needed help too.

#6229 2 years ago

Hope onemilemore isn't sleeping on this one!

#6230 2 years ago

Thanks for the feedback, all! Definitely not my first pin but definitely my first older pin, so just trying to do my due diligence. I think you've convinced me to take the plunge, will report back if I can pull it off.

#6231 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

--The game has the best music package from any B/W game, and feel free to crucify me everyone, but I'd say it's even better than anything from the DCS era as well. With each raft advancement, the tune adds an instrument, and it gets more upbeat and complex as you make your way "deeper" into the game. It's easily the most interactive audio package ever put into a game. Period.
It's just stupid, plain, wholesome fun.

I still can't believe Chris Granner did Whitewater and Twilight Zone back-to-back. They're his two best sound packages IMHO, and yet also very distinct from each other.

#6232 2 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

I still can't believe Chris Granner did Whitewater and Twilight Zone back-to-back. They're his two best sound packages IMHO, and yet also very distinct from each other.

To me, music is a HUGE part of the game experience, and no one did it better than Granner. It’s not even how good the mainplay tunes are, it’s his detail work.

Like how the end of ball bonus riff gets way more rad the larger your multiplier and bonus is in Taxi, and how literally every song has a cadence that ends the tune seamlessly when the ball drains, no matter what part of the tune the ball drained at.

I think it’s those little bits of interactivity that makes these B/W games so “magical.” DCS and later sound systems just don’t have the ability to be instantaneously interactive like that.

(Plus, that Yamaha FM chip tugs on my nostalgia heartstrings more than anything else does)

Imagine what Granner’s vision of TZ would’ve been like had he not had to rush through remaking everything after DCS was cancelled for the game!

#6233 2 years ago

Doing a thorough cleaning, installing Titans, and fixing a couple things. Pray for me. EF1F7C4D-36A2-4414-8955-031610372EF6 (resized).jpegEF1F7C4D-36A2-4414-8955-031610372EF6 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#6234 2 years ago

I hope to start my Whitewater restoration soon. The PF I had lined up fell through, it had planking that was not noticeable in photos. Does anyone have an original that they swapped out that would be a good candidate for restoration that they may want to part with?

Has anyone installed a Mirco? If so how do you like it?

#6235 2 years ago

The popper on the ball lock is often unsuccessful in getting it over the "hump". It is worse when there are already 1 or two balls locked. This eventually cases the game to go into a ball search, and then you loose all your locks.

It does seem to happen almost right away when you first turn the game on, so I don't think it has anything to do with the coil getting hot or weak.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

#6236 2 years ago
Quoted from bernieberg:

The popper on the ball lock is often unsuccessful in getting it over the "hump". It is worse when there are already 1 or two balls locked. This eventually cases the game to go into a ball search, and then you loose all your locks.
It doesn't seem to happen almost right away when you first turn the game on, so I don't think it has anything to do with the coil getting hot or weak.
Any ideas?
Thanks!

Check the coil sleeve on the ball popper, make sure it isn't gummed up or doesn't slide properly.
Check the coil stop on the ball popper to make sure it isn't mushroomed.
Check the cup on the ball popper and make sure the roll pin that holds the popper on is still there and secure.

Agreed, probably not a heat thing - most likely some simple mechanical reason.

#6237 2 years ago

I took the old signs off my old boulders. Left the rivet intact. Put Velcro strips on the back and the other side of the strip to the boulders. It held for years with no issues

Quoted from attack7777:

Check the coil sleeve on the ball popper, make sure it isn't gummed up or doesn't slide properly.
Check the coil stop on the ball popper to make sure it isn't mushroomed.
Check the cup on the ball popper and make sure the roll pin that holds the popper on is still there and secure.
Agreed, probably not a heat thing - most likely some simple mechanical reason.

I had one years ago that was missing one of the little fins on the popper cup that contacts the ball. It would sometimes work, and sometimes spin into a position where it did what yours is doing. I had to replace the cup plastic piece.

#6238 2 years ago

Yeah check fir a cracked/broken ball popper cup

#6239 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I hope to start my Whitewater restoration soon. The PF I had lined up fell through, it had planking that was not noticeable in photos. Does anyone have an original that they swapped out that would be a good candidate for restoration that they may want to part with?
Has anyone installed a Mirco? If so how do you like it?

I just installed a Mirco playfield the other day. The playfield looks really nice, and surprisingly almost every dimple was in the correct place. I think I had two or three screws I had to adjust. I haven't played any games on it, as I'm still in the middle of the restore, but I'm happy with it so far.

#6240 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Has anyone installed a Mirco? If so how do you like it?

I have a Mirco playfield. So far so good, no clearcoat issue.

#6241 2 years ago

Not a WH2O, but I have an AFM Mirco playfield that I absolutely beat on. Looks as good today as it did when I put it in. No chipping or pooling.

#6242 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I hope to start my Whitewater restoration soon. The PF I had lined up fell through, it had planking that was not noticeable in photos. Does anyone have an original that they swapped out that would be a good candidate for restoration that they may want to part with?
Has anyone installed a Mirco? If so how do you like it?

I use a Mirco PF. Love it!

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGfnH8tg5lKp

#6243 2 years ago

Looks pretty nice.

#6244 2 years ago

I will be clearcoating my playfield, so I have a free playfield protector for both the main and mini playfield for anyone local who wants to come grab it.

Also, what are the current best quality cabinet decals to buy? Cointaker's look purpleish.

#6245 2 years ago
Quoted from bernieberg:

The popper on the ball lock is often unsuccessful in getting it over the "hump". It is worse when there are already 1 or two balls locked. This eventually cases the game to go into a ball search, and then you loose all your locks.
It does seem to happen almost right away when you first turn the game on, so I don't think it has anything to do with the coil getting hot or weak.
Any ideas?
Thanks!

Just a follow up on this. the ball cup looked good, I replaced the sleeve. Still had the issue. So, I swapped the coil with the knocker coil (both AE-23-800). So far so good, It seems to be working correctly now. So, either swapping the coil, or the fresh solder on the wires helped.

1 week later
#6246 2 years ago

Anyone build a whitewater from scratch? Wondering which parts are going to be impossible to find. Seems like big foot mech and lamp boards? What else?

#6247 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Anyone build a whitewater from scratch? Wondering which parts are going to be impossible to find. Seems like big foot mech and lamp boards? What else?

It depends. If you are looking for original parts, the mission is almost impossible: Big Foot, ball guides, lamp boards, playfield harnesses, wireform ramps.
And of course waterfall topper.

If repro is good enough, the project is still hard, but not impossible. I can help with lamp boards and wireforms.

20211118_082749 (resized).jpg20211118_082749 (resized).jpg20211118_083154 (resized).jpg20211118_083154 (resized).jpg
#6248 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Anyone build a whitewater from scratch? Wondering which parts are going to be impossible to find. Seems like big foot mech and lamp boards? What else?

I think the metal piece for holding the opto sensors at the mini playfield is one of these things. If you are handy and have some tools you could make one yourself, its basically a bent piece of metal with some holes in it.

#6249 2 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I think the metal piece for holding the opto sensors at the mini playfield is one of these things. If you are handy and have some tools you could make one yourself, its basically a bent piece of metal with some holes in it.

No problem

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/86#post-5164892

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