An outlet checker on the service outlet would be a good start if everything is wired right.

LTG : )

The electrician who put the outlets in my garage replaced the plug with a 220 volt plug, then plugged it into the wall. I didn’t know he did it until after I turned it on and heard a pop. So it blew something. I’m just trying to find what it blew because I haven’t had to deal with power issues before. Still rather noob and had my pins stored for the past few years and just getting back into them.

Check main fuse first. Then line filter, thermistor, varistor, what ever is in there.

LTG : )

The electrician re-wired your garage to 220 and thought he could just change the pinball machine's plug and everything would be fine? That's not an electrician, that's a moron.

There seems to be a lot of confusion here as to exactly what the electrician did. For clarification, the outlet is on the wall and the plug is what's on the pin. You can't replace a plug with a 220 volt and be able to plug it into the outlet, unless the outlet was also changed to the same configuration.

You need to determine what voltage your outlets are that were installed by the electrican. The plug you showed earlier is nothing but a 20 amp 125 volt twist lock plug. A bit overkill for residential use, but there's nothing wrong with it. He may have changed the pin outlets to this configuration so that you couldn't plug anything else into that circuit....just the pins.

Get a meter and measure what you have at the outlets. Or, check the breaker he installed and see if it's a single pole or two pole. Pole would be 120 volts and a two pole would be 220.

I have a pair of unused cliffy's for the boulders... anyone need some? $18 mailed anywhere in the continental US. Shoot me a PM

SOLD

Years ago I bought a 110v STTNG that was imported to Europe and plugged into a 220v socket.
I bought it off the guy for 500e as it stood and as far I remember it was a very very easy fix.
There is a MOV metal oxide varistor near the switch and it had blown and I think that was it!!!

Does anybody have anti-reflective glass on their game, and does the ball hitting the glass affect it?

it wont affect anything other than removing 300 or so dollars fro your life for no good reason. use normal glass, keep it clean, enjoy. get to games, get an 11th free if you skipped getting invisiglass on the first 10.

Yes and no, the ball hitting it doesn't cause any damage. I personally love anti-reflective glass and think it's well worth it especially now that there are more affordable options available.

Agreed and thanks... Was just worried the ball might scuff the coating..

So the Bigfoot bluff insert lights and flashes sometimes. Normally when a shot is lit, I hit it and it unlights. This insert continues to flash. Whirlpool shorts here are registering as I get the 5x, man overboard etc. Is this normal?

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I’ll trade. Jurassic Park Pro w/Extras for a Nice Whitewater w/colorDMD. Serious fokes hit me up!!

Radcals....Color is off, but Mirco said that's the color he got from Williams. Looks OK

Does anyone have pics of RAD CALS install on their Wh20?

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Mirco just sucks. Half the crap they sell has mismatched color issues.

This brings up an interesting point. If you got the color directly from Williams and it is indeed the exact color, it may be hard to color match to a real original one just because any real original one would fade over time. You can't compare to photos either since there will be some color variation there too. The color will also appear different just because of the reflective nature of the rad cals as well. I'm not taking any sides here, but color comparison is indeed difficult. Just ask me, I'm color blind.

My left flipper button is much softer than my right one. Looking at them, it looks like the interrupter on the left is missing the second brass blade. Specifically, the right one looks to have 2 blades, and the left one has 1. Is this something that can be ordered? All I see are entire replacements for the board.

Attached are pic, I was too lazy to take the glass of this morning when I took pics, ha. I hope you get the idea though.

Thanks!

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Isn't missing. Just doesn't have it. Some do and some don't. At some point your game had one flipper button opto board replaced and it wasn't matched up to the other one. Hence one of each.

LTG : )

If you want the buttons to feel the same then I suggest you buy two identical sets of"spring" and opto actuator. The parts are quite cheap and you only need to remove like three screws on each side to change it out.

Check the game manual to get the part numbers and you will then easily find them online to order. If you don't have a paper manual then get the digital pdf at ipdb.org.

Bit the bullet and ordered and installed a CPR backglass. My translight was terrible. It had a scratch in it, and it looked like someone spilled coffee all over the back, so this was overdue.

Anyone on the fence, I highly recommend it. It’s a *tad* darker than the original, and the yellows aren’t as rich, but honestly, you’d never know the difference unless you were staring at both up close. The mirrored bits are a nice touch too. Mine is being backlit with incandescent bulbs.

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Seems like I read somewhere that someone found a really good match to the original blue paint on the cabinet. By any chance does anyone happen to remember this or actually know the maker and the color name?

A dead match for the good ol fashioned decals, original and new GenII. Apparently not so much the Radcals.
Home Depot, Amazon, etc all stock it.

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Before & After...

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The overspray in the back around the boards is from the factory, and it matches this paint exactly!

This paint is a really good match for the original color. Unfortunately the decals from cointaker are similar to the Radcals. Their color doesn't match the original paint.

That colour match looks awesome!

Radcals are purple and look like crap

I installed the GI and LED OCD boards on my White Water. the GI OCD made a huge difference. Before, anytime the game faded the GI, they would just strobe. The effect the LED OCD board has is much more subtle.

I made a before and after video of the fading effects in the test menu. I wish I would have taken a before video of the ball lock, that is where you can clearly tell the difference. Before it would just strobe, now it fades the GI out smoothly to nothing as you go into the "cave".

thx. the head of my WH20 has lots of scuffs and this will make it look great!

My insanity falls doesen't register when the ball rolls over.I went to switch edges and and tested it but it didn't register there either. All the other switches works.
I took it out and solderd off the negative side of the diode and got a reading of 0.538 so the diode is good.
Could it be the microswitch that i need to replace ?

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Think so, and a good oportunity to up your solder game

It was like this when i bought it 21 years ago

those old operators sucked at on the fly solder

I suppose the fact it's wired wrong doesn't help. White wire goes to black end of diode, green wire goes where white wire was after you remove it. Silver band end of diode gets soldered back to the lug it's near.

LTG : )

Thanks for the info LTG ‍

Do you happen to know the part number for the microswitch ?

Why ? Is yours broken ?

Wire it up right and see if it works.

Searching parts suppliers I didn't see a switch exactly like it. IF yours is bad, which I doubt. Get a plain micro mini switch and swap the flat blade from the old one onto the new one.

LTG : )

It's been wired like this for as long as i've owned the game (21 years) so when it suddenly stopped working i thought that mabye the microswitch had gone bad but i'll try your solution first and see if that corrects it.

Working now LTG.Always good to have you around

Fix one thing and then another problem occurs.
Bad coil mabye ?
The upper flipper feels weak.

The problem is very rarely if ever the coil. Take it apart, clean everything up, replace worn parts including the sleeve if necessary, reasemble with the proper spacing / alignment and see if the problem is resolved. If not try checking / cleaning the flipper switch or opto, make sure it registers properly in switch test, etc.

it is not a problem of the mechanism. You mounted the wrong spring assembly. look to the right (not see it on video); it remains hooked at the level of the ball guide.

Who sells the best decals for this game? Does anyone sell a close color match to the original?

At 0:17, it sounds like something's arcing - check your solder joints on the solenoid lugs, some might have become 'cold'. Reflowing them could possibly help. Give the wires a wiggle and see if the connections move.

I'm not sure who sells the best decals, but here are the ones Cointaker sells. They look different based on how bright the light is. The first picture is with standard indoor lighting. The second with the flash enabled on my camera.

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Here is indoor lighting, then sunlight from an open window.

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Pinballcards.com he has a few to choose from for WW. He just ask for small donation. Also on your printer uncheck the box fit to page or something like that if to big or small try other way. I also use glossy photo paper. A regular size sheet as both sides print on one page.

anyplace left that sells the boulder shooter rod?

I have been searching for months. I don't think so

Has anyone found a small, plastic boulder of the correct size? I bought a raw shooter rod with nothing attached and I want to drill a hole and make one.

What would be the easiest way to fix this? I bought a new set of boulders earlier this year, but unfortunately this sign got struck by an air ball and snapped in half. I still have my old boulder with an intact sign, but I don't have any riveting equipment or experience. I could try Scigrip, but you'd still be able to see a crack where it broke apart.

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Here is what I would do. I would drill carefully the back side of the boulder sign rivet on both old and new. Just enough to take the curled head off.
I would use the old sign on the new Boulder.
Then use a similar diameter size screw (#6) and on in the inside use a #6 flat washer and Elastic stop nut. Riveting plastic takes special tools and novice will break expensive plastics every time.

If you want, you can ship them both to me and I'll take care of it for you.

No charge.