I think they used the original voice actors. That being said, yeah not what I was hoping for. I find the game kind of slow, a bit mellow, and rather quiet b/c of the music. It would be nice to spice it up a bit, but that's not the spice I want.

A sound package contains 4 folders in Pinsound. Music, voices, sound effects and "jingles". Each folder contains all the sound files. You can easily create you own sound package by selecting only certain folders or sounds. In other words, if you want the new stereo music files but are used to the original call-outs, you just switch the folders. If you want change a sound effect you can install your own .wav file in it's place.

BTW, I didn't like the voice files at first either. But they grew on me.

So, my white water has a blown soundboard. I'm a stickler for originality, so I'll be sending the sound board out for repair. Unfortunately, there is a 3 month turnaround from essentially all the repair guys.

I... uhh.... Can't wait that long. So, the way I see it, I have 2 options:

--Find a working sound board (anyone have one they pulled from a game they replaced with pinsound??)
--Buy a pinsound board, but use the original audio clips in it, and use that as a "substitute" while I have the board out for repair (because the current reorchestrations sound like garbage, imo.)

What do you guys think? I wouldn't mind having a pinsound board in my catalogue of boards, so option 2, while expensive, isn't the worst proposition. How good does the pinsound board sound running original sounds?

Not only did it sound awful, many sounds wasn't complete like the end-of-ball tune missing the last tones. I would never use this package.

Yes and what's going on with the bonus count and the game over music? Sounds like a 9-year-old has been set loose on Audacity while dizzy on lemonade!!

Personally I'd wait, but up to you of course

I have an original WH20 Etched Foil Waterfall Topper, on it's upright stand, with original plastic dome (complete original topper).

Curious what it's worth?

Let me know.
Thanks
Kerry

Hard to say, unless you auction it off! Someone just paid $14,000 for a DE BTTF, so it’s kinda crazytown these days.

12 bucks kerry. Dan and I will come by to pick it up

I'm sure you could get at least $1K for it, on eBay who knows how high it might go.

Thanks to all for the feedback on original topper.

Apparently the range is $12 - $89,000... averaging around $1,000

As someone sans a topper this is very intriguing, but I also need 2K in other parts too

Do you have a link to Vid's guide for this? Thanks

Think you could get 1000 Euro also

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-led-stand-up-targets-for-19-cents

I ran a “poor man’s” waterfall topper using glitter for years.

Anyone know where I can buy a Boulder shooter rod? Seem to be non existent

I still haven’t found one….

Seems like it should be feasible to make a boulder shooter somehow. I know the stock shooter rods are available with threads on one end. But what material would be the best medium to work with I wonder. I have a clear shooter rod on mine. I would prefer a nice-looking boulder. Too bad Flintstones has an auto-launch button. I bet boulder rods would have been common on that game.

With all the shooter rod mods I’m surprised too

I'm still looking for a boulder shooter rod too. It seems like enough demand....

Thank you desuperbee

https://olivierflippermod.com/accueil/395-lance-bille-white-water-flipper-pinball-mod.html

Here they sell a boulder shooter rod

Thank you. It's a little different looking but I may give it a shot. Can you confirm that this is a legitimate site? They have some interesting stuff and good prices.

Can you buy just the rod? Wish there was an English conversion. Buy a few and save shipping? .

I have been replacing all my incandescent bulbs with LEDs and have this situation in my back box. The lights were out before switching to LEDs and I thought they were just bad bulbs. I have looked at the fuses and none of them appear blown. Any suggestions on how to approach? I have tried looking through the forums but I am a little stuck.

Appreciate any help. Thanks.

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Did you physically pull the fuses and test?

My Google pops up a translator on the page. I don't see a shooter rod only option, but it's pretty cheap for the whole assembly. If I'm seeing it right, 65 bucks including shipping. Yeah that housing looks a little rough

I have not yet. This kobalt multimeter good for that purpose?

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yes, as long it can measure for continuity

Are any of your playfield GI lights out as well? I’d start by looking at the GI connector on the board and seeing how toasty it looks. Check continuity back to the board. Check voltages from the board too. Failing that reflow the header pins. GI is generally a simple fix

I find that some of the cheap multimeters don’t have an audible tone for continuity. They’ll still work of course, but when you’re deep in something it’s really nice to just be able to touch the probes to what you’re testing and hear the beep instead of having to look at the display for 0.0 or whatever it says.

Look on Amazon for a multimeter with continuity beep… there are plenty from $10-15 for sure. Some with fuse pullers even.

So the entrance to my disaster drop is completely broken. No ramp, no ramp protector. I'm getting a switch 75 error, which is not surprising. I've read that the machine shipped with two diff switch types for the Disaster Drop.

Would a couple of you mind taking some pics of your switch at the ramp entrance so I have a better understanding of where the switch is supposed to be located and the bracket I may need to source.

Many thanks in advance.

Lucky for you mine is torn apart!

Mine has optos at the entrance that can be removed without tearing the game down. look under yours and you will see the bracket if it has optos.

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Thank you so much. Fingers crossed for optos.

Bracket mounts to the pf and not the ramp. You might get lucky and have it here, or is it gone?

What do people use to protect the shooter lane? Mine is ok, some wear, but I'd like it not to get any worse.

Anyone have a source for target decals? I had some nice ones on my last wh20 that I can no longer find. The guy on ebay makes a set, but I don't love them.

A sheet of adhesive mylar.

Protecting the shooter lane in a home environment isn't really necessary though imo.

I usually use mylar too, especially on new Sterns but the shooter lane in my Wh20 is not going to get worse from me playing it at home, it was obviously routed and apparently earned pretty well.

Leave them bare (or light them) is what I would do. I haven't seen an aftermarket target sticker yet that I like for any game.

But you do to your game what you like.

Anyone else get upset when they see these machines converted to snow theme? Such a disservice to Dennis and Willy...

Upset no, but I definitely don't like the look and wouldn't want one like that even with all the extra bling.

I actually like the look. It matches quite a bit of the playfield.

I love it. To each their own. I did one of mine last year. I know the bumble head took me several hours alone to get right.
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Nah, imo the white snow mountain isn't fitting at all and that extra skull mountain is fugly!

I'm torn on the whitecaps. I'm not sure which way I am going to go when I do my PF swap. Definitely keeping Bigfoot, even though he is creepy af looking. Like he's the guy that I would avoid at the bar.

LOL funny... he is an icon though!

Recent restoration. Lots of new parts.

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