Quoted from WH20_Buzz:Its prevents the Speaker Pop you get when switching the Machine on and off
So I can just drop this into any pin and it will take out the pop? That's awesome!
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:Its prevents the Speaker Pop you get when switching the Machine on and off
So I can just drop this into any pin and it will take out the pop? That's awesome!
Could someone post the part number for the vuk cup that feeds the upper playfield?
I ordered one but received the wrong part.
Quoted from yzfguy:Pingraffix rocks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those are my favorite WH2O blades too. My game came with them installed but slightly too high, so the top edge was peeling from the glass rubbing against it. I ordered the same pair of blades again.
Quoted from The_Pump_House:Could someone post the part number for the vuk cup that feeds the upper playfield?
I ordered one but received the wrong part.
03-8561
Quoted from DK:I’m sure that it’s been addressed but what is the key to consistent kickouts from the Lost Mine?
Change the Coil to a AE26-1200 it prevents further Playfield wear and its kick the ball out to the middle of the right flipper which bounces over to the left Flipper and you can catch it every time. If you don't want the game to become easier just stay with the AE23-800.
On the topic of the Lost Mine popper, is anyone using the reproduction assembly from Mantis, and if so, what armature/plunger length you are using? I assembled it with two different plungers and both seem like they’d interfere with the ball rolling into the popper cup.
I’ve tried:
02-4672 (4-1/16”) *per the manual
02-4668 (3-7/8”) - might be “ok”…but the popper cup fins are still above the ball chute.
Looks like a 3.5” would be better, but I don’t see a standard Bally/Williams part at that length. Also would need the hole for the popper screw. Maybe I need to cut the end down?
Thanks in advance.
Quoted from RusticatedBelt:On the topic of the Lost Mine popper, is anyone using the reproduction assembly from Mantis, and if so, what armature/plunger length you are using? I assembled it with two different plungers and both seem like they’d interfere with the ball rolling into the popper cup.
I’ve tried:
02-4672 (4-1/16”) *per the manual
02-4668 (3-7/8”) - might be “ok”…but the popper cup fins are still above the ball chute.
Looks like a 3.5” would be better, but I don’t see a standard Bally/Williams part at that length. Also would need the hole for the popper screw. Maybe I need to cut the end down?
Thanks in advance.
I would cut it to the correct length and Drill another Hole. Would need the cut it dead square or the Popper Cup will not fire the Ball in true fashion
Quoted from Davi:03-8561
That’s what I ordered but that’s not the correct part. My vuk cup has a base that extends down the coil shaft
Quoted from The_Pump_House:That’s what I ordered but that’s not the correct part. My vuk cup has a base that extends down the coil shaft
Did someone install a Data East popper cup on your game?
Quoted from The_Pump_House:That’s what I ordered but that’s not the correct part. My vuk cup has a base that extends down the coil shaft
03-8561 is the factory setup, according to parts list.
Quoted from Davi:03-8561 is the factory setup, according to parts list.
Does anyone have a pic of their vuk?
Anyone have a spare WH2O apron/lower arch assembly out there that they are willing to part with? Maybe someone who upgraded to a illuminated apron from Pinball Dreams a couple years ago, or had one of those they didn't want? Thought I'd ask here before I posted to market. Please PM.
"(How the moving waterfall effect was made is one of the great mysteries of the pinball world. Apparently some chap walked in off the street into Williams’ offices and said he had the technology to produce the illusion of motion on a foil sticker with nothing more than lights flashing in a chase pattern to make it work.
Twenty years later and no-one can remember who he was or what company he worked for. Somehow this individual (or his company) managed to create the necessary patterns in the foil to make the water come to life, yet today no-one has successfully reproduced the patterns by copying an existing topper let alone create the patterns from scratch.)"
http://pavlovpinball.com/pinballs-all-time-top-toppers/
Is the "mystery contractor" part of this story accurate? I'm aware that no one has been able to reproduce the topper.
Related:
There must be someone on earth who could figure out how to make a new WH20 topper, if given a sample.
Quoted from oldbaby:"(How the moving waterfall effect was made is one of the great mysteries of the pinball world. Apparently some chap walked in off the street into Williams’ offices and said he had the technology to produce the illusion of motion on a foil sticker with nothing more than lights flashing in a chase pattern to make it work.
Twenty years later and no-one can remember who he was or what company he worked for. Somehow this individual (or his company) managed to create the necessary patterns in the foil to make the water come to life, yet today no-one has successfully reproduced the patterns by copying an existing topper let alone create the patterns from scratch.)"
http://pavlovpinball.com/pinballs-all-time-top-toppers/
Is the "mystery contractor" part of this story accurate? I'm aware that no one has been able to reproduce the topper.
Related:
There must be someone on earth who could figure out how to make a new WH20 topper, if given a sample.
Seems true, and I would agree. But the full story behind this topper is available online and tells all about how the original topper was made, and how other companies have tried, and mostly failed, to produce an exact replica. Other versions have been released, but have always looked different or failed to really capture that cascading water look. It had something to do with a press, and producing the proper foil to give the shimmering effect. With toppers going for hundreds more than they were a few years ago, it seems possible someone could reverse engineer these for $500 a pop, and I bet they would sell. The full story is a really interesting read. Many, many man hours and lots of money have gone into trying to remake this topper.
Not really a mystery, the company and the person who did it are known.
If I recall correctly the man passed away or company ceased their operations, and original mold for the topper doesn't exist anymore.
According to an interview with Greg Freres in The Pinball Compendium, the topper effect was invented by Phil Grear. I managed to find this Pinside post from a few years ago which seems to have more info about him and the topper design: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/announce-whitewater-foil-topper-decal-reproduction/page/16#post-3033973
He offered to help re-create the topper, but then PPS got involved and we got the twisted pins version....
Quoted from BrewNinja:He offered to help re-create the topper, but then PPS got involved and we got the twisted pins version....
The "story of the topper" including a lot of technical details about trying to properly re-create it today are in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-ideas-for-white-water-topper In my opinion this thread only gets really good when Gibranx gets involved and really goes down the rabbit hole on trying reproduce it including trying to find viable manufacturers to do so. The short answer is that no one really makes things using the same process the original used and most available technologies do not produce suitable results or / and are entirely too expensive.
From the Aphex Twin Warp récords cover https://www.discogs.com/Aphex-Twin-Collapse-EP/release/12512500 that is very similar to the Whitewater topper the technique is called Procédé Heliophore on silver foil
This was done a couple years back, the tech is not lost.
pasted_image (resized).jpegQuoted from J67ab:From the Aphex Twin Warp récords cover https://www.discogs.com/Aphex-Twin-Collapse-EP/release/12512500 that is very similar to the Whitewater topper the technique is called Procédé Heliophore on silver foil.
Old school cool!!!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Hey gang, if anyone has a bigfoot head with all his original hair still intact, and willing to part with it, please PM me. I will pay cash and/or trade if there's any bits you need that I may have.
I am still searching for this, please help a brother out! The bald bigfoot in my otherwise 99% restored game is making me OCD crazy!!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I am still searching for this, please help a brother out! The bald bigfoot in my otherwise 99% restored game is making me OCD crazy!!
Mine is somehow armless. I tried making cloth arms and using some fur from down below but it was a fail. How the hell am I going to get bigfoot arms?! I can't understand why someone would remove them
Quoted from yzfguy:Mine is somehow armless. I tried making cloth arms and using some fur from down below but it was a fail. How the hell am I going to get bigfoot arms?! I can't understand why someone would remove them
Well that sucks! I dont know which is worse! The cute thing is that Marco and everyone else sells a bald replacement head, but nobody sells any of the fur! Unless you want to attempt tearing apart a teddy bear and redo the whole bigfoot, you're just SOL on matching the head to the body or vice versa.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Well that sucks! I dont know which is worse! The cute thing is that Marco and everyone else sells a bald replacement head, but nobody sells any of the fur! Unless you want to attempt tearing apart a teddy bear and redo the whole bigfoot, you're just SOL on matching the head to the body or vice versa.
I was able to use an exacto knife and cut off a strip of fur around the base of his body. It fell apart I guess because of it's age, but maybe it would make a nice wig. You have to either remove that blue plastic at the base or drop the whole assembly to access it.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Well that sucks! I dont know which is worse! The cute thing is that Marco and everyone else sells a bald replacement head, but nobody sells any of the fur! Unless you want to attempt tearing apart a teddy bear and redo the whole bigfoot, you're just SOL on matching the head to the body or vice versa.
Have you tried a craft store like Jo-Anne's Fabrics? That is your best bet. You're not going to get a 100% match because the fur ages and fades differently depending on game location, etc. At this stage, just buy some new fur and redo.
Can you guys tell me what the arms actually are? Tubes of cloth? I can't see where or how they would attach. I have hands on the log and need to make arms to fill the gap when he extends the log
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Well that sucks! I dont know which is worse! The cute thing is that Marco and everyone else sells a bald replacement head, but nobody sells any of the fur! Unless you want to attempt tearing apart a teddy bear and redo the whole bigfoot, you're just SOL on matching the head to the body or vice versa.
This what you are looking for?
9FAB65AA-D277-486E-8331-7347AF277874 (resized).jpegA75B371F-622F-475D-96A8-784AB59D4F59 (resized).jpegD5611BB8-1C62-47E7-A9C8-8AC27CB7A204 (resized).jpegQuoted from yzfguy:Well dayummm. Wish you had his arms!
Sorry. Trashed those when I changed the bigfoot
I just joined the club. I'm having an issue in which hazard 7 never registers. It also doesn't work when that path is lit up for Man Overboard. But works fine on Whirlpool. I checked switch 48 (canyon entrance) switch 62 (whirlpool exit) and switch 61 (whirlpool popper) and they all work fine. The whirlpool awards also work fine along with bigfoot jackpot. I'm using ROM LH-6. Is there another switch that needs activated to get hazard 7? Is there a bug in the software? Any help would be appreciated.
Edit: I had a friend with the same ROM version test his and it registers the hazard when the ball hits switch 62 (whirlpool). So switch 61 is not needed to register the shot. But again my switches 48 and 62 seem to be working fine in switch test. Also during the game switch 48 always works the diverter and 62 always gives the drain sound effect.
Quoted from kguenther6:I just joined the club. I'm having an issue in which hazard 7 never registers. It also doesn't work when that path is lit up for Man Overboard. But works fine on Whirlpool. I checked switch 48 (canyon entrance) switch 62 (whirlpool exit) and switch 61 (whirlpool popper) and they all work fine. The whirlpool awards also work fine along with bigfoot jackpot. I'm using ROM LH-6. Is there another switch that needs activated to get hazard 7? Is there a bug in the software? Any help would be appreciated.
Edit: I had a friend with the same ROM version test his and it registers the hazard when the ball hits switch 62 (whirlpool). So switch 61 is not needed to register the shot. But again my switches 48 and 62 seem to be working fine in switch test. Also during the game switch 48 always works the diverter and 62 always gives the drain sound effect.
Switch 57, canyon main, is the one that awards the hazard. It's hidden under the mountain right before the ball passes by bigfoot, and it sounds like that switch isn't working.
I have the CPR backglass and think it looks fantastic.
Quoted from usul27:Does somebody use the CPR backglass for this? What do you think about the quality?
Quoted from mystman12:Switch 57, canyon main, is the one that awards the hazard. It's hidden under the mountain right before the ball passes by bigfoot, and it sounds like that switch isn't working.
Ah... I was looking at the manual and it looked like that switch was on another ramp. I will take the mountain of and check that switch. Thank you!
Edit: I tested switch 57 and it was bad. I replaced the switch and all works great now. Thanks mystman!
Quoted from kguenther6:I just joined the club. I'm having an issue in which hazard 7 never registers. It also doesn't work when that path is lit up for Man Overboard. But works fine on Whirlpool. I checked switch 48 (canyon entrance) switch 62 (whirlpool exit) and switch 61 (whirlpool popper) and they all work fine. The whirlpool awards also work fine along with bigfoot jackpot. I'm using ROM LH-6. Is there another switch that needs activated to get hazard 7? Is there a bug in the software? Any help would be appreciated.
Edit: I had a friend with the same ROM version test his and it registers the hazard when the ball hits switch 62 (whirlpool). So switch 61 is not needed to register the shot. But again my switches 48 and 62 seem to be working fine in switch test. Also during the game switch 48 always works the diverter and 62 always gives the drain sound effect.
I guess that means I don't have to sell you mine now, congrats and welcome!
Quoted from bobukcat:I guess that means I don't have to sell you mine now, congrats and welcome!
I found one over the weekend so I'll let you keep yours for now.
Lite out. Everything else seems to be working on my white water. Except my whirlpool is lit lamp, is out. I am struggling to find the problem. I even pulled the power pcb and tested q86 and q94 they check good. I can turn on (lights whirlpool) in service menu but I cant turn on (55) (whirlpool is lit, lamp). Any ideas?
Quoted from tonyf1965:Lite out. Everything else seems to be working on my white water. Except my whirlpool is lit lamp, is out. I am struggling to find the problem. I even pulled the power pcb and tested q86 and q94 they check good. I can turn on (lights whirlpool) in service menu but I cant turn on (55) (whirlpool is lit, lamp). Any ideas?
Did you test the socket and continuity of both leads back to the PCB? Could be a broken wire from one bulb to the next in the row or column.
Thanks, I will try that. I am on vacation this week. This is my project. It is hard to check voltage as those two lights flash on and off. Since they flash cant get a real reading.
Ok, here is what I found.The wiring all checked good. The board with the lamp socket looked like it hardly had much solder on it. Took the board out added more solder/built up more solder on board for lamp socket. Where it twist in. Like magic works perfect now. I don't think this light hardly ever worked since I got the machine.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/119?hl=wh20_buzz and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.