(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 7,932 posts
  • 638 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 days ago by uxb666
  • Topic is favorited by 305 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_20240621_093706789 (resized).jpg
0AAEFB86-AD48-4277-A60D-23EC987EA487 (resized).jpeg
C32F0A8F-3D49-480C-BB0F-173E039ADEDC (resized).jpeg
B86693B5-B13F-4E9C-AF8D-C36439C122CC (resized).jpeg
IMG_5091 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0250 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0240 (resized).jpeg
20240612_082740 (resized).jpg
IMG_8448 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8446 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8447 (resized).jpeg
ww5 (resized).jpg
ww4 (resized).jpg
ww2 (resized).jpg
ww3 (resized).jpg
ww1 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 7,932 posts in this topic. You are on page 117 of 159.
#5801 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Marco should have the riverbed/boulder decals. I just ordered a few ramp and PF decals from them. You could cut them to fit on the Mantis protectors.
[quoted image]

Yes, that is the decal. They seem to be sold out everywhere, I got mine from a pinsider who is downsizing.

#5802 3 years ago
Quoted from loneacer:

Anybody know the part number(s) for the topper screws? Looks like there's 3 for the topper and 6 for the dome (3 in the back that go in wood, 3 in the front that go in metal). I'm guessing they are all Torx screws, probably 2 or 3 different ones.

Yep, one of the best mods I have put into a machine. Blue LEDs lighting up the ramps look awesome!

#5803 3 years ago

I went to visit the Whitewater that I am picking up from my friend. It's a bit rougher than he remembered (had been sitting folded. Three or so broken boulders, some broken plastics, broken ramps, these lovely sheet rock screw op mods and two sunken inserts. I am still grabbing it, it's just going to be more of a project than I bargained for.

I have read the repro ramps that are available don't fit that great so not sure what to do there. Would love to hear your thoughts.

How do folks feel about the repro mountain sets?

0 (resized).jpeg0 (resized).jpeg0-2 (resized).jpeg0-2 (resized).jpeg0-5 (resized).jpeg0-5 (resized).jpeg

#5804 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Grab the manual. Go over driver board connectors. Be sure they are in the right spots. Be sure the wires to each connector is in the right spots.
LTG : )

As usual, LTG, you are the man! Got my manual today and sure enough, the connector for those flashers was plugged in the wrong spot! This was the same case with the fishtales I picked up last year, how do people just plug connectors in randomly?!
All good now! Thank you

@nerdygrrl..
I installed repro boulders and a full set of ramps in my last wh20 and both looked great. I had no issues with the ramps being too thick that I can remember, and they make the whole game look clean.

#5805 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I went to visit the Whitewater that I am picking up from my friend. It's a bit rougher than he remembered (had been sitting folded. Three or so broken boulders, some broken plastics, ramp, these lovely sheet rock screw op mods and two sunken inserts. I am still grabbing it, it's just going to be more of a project than I bargained for.
I have read the repro ramps that are available don't fit that great so not sure what to do there. Would love to hear your thoughts.
How do folks feel about the repro mountain sets?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I recently replaced a couple ramps and they seem pretty close, certainly tolerable in terms of fit. They look amazing when new too. I bought that same replacement Boulder in your pic and it’s much darker than the original ones. But I suppose it could be painted. I did burn some coin on a full set of the white/blue arctic version, while they are available. Around $250 I think. Or you can replace the entire set of brown ones for around $200 or a little more. Good luck with your pin!

#5806 3 years ago

I did burn some coin on a full set of the white/blue arctic version, while they are available. Around $250 I think. Or you can replace the entire set of brown ones for around $200 or a little more.

I really like the look of the white/blue arctic mountains it really looks sharp!

I have read the repro ramps that are available don't fit that great so not sure what to do there. Would love to hear your thoughts.
How do folks feel about the repro mountain sets?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I think my ramps are reproduction. My ball used to get stuck under a switch. Outside of that they look and work great. Good luck with your project!

#5807 3 years ago

I clear coated the “skull Mountain” quite nervous about putting it in! It will be dry in an hour or so we will see...

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5808 3 years ago

My side art is here as well. I think it will take me a few beer, but I’m giving it a try tonight as well...

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5809 3 years ago

Be sure to have a "helper" when putting on the side art. With two people it's pretty easy...with one it's very hard.

#5810 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Be sure to have a "helper" when putting on the side art. With two people it's pretty easy...with one it's very hard.

This.

#5811 3 years ago

Skull Mountain is installed!

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#5812 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Be sure to have a "helper" when putting on the side art. With two people it's pretty easy...with one it's very hard.

Agree. I’ve put on dozens of these, and the one time I did it alone was a pain. It can be done, but with 2 people holding each end it’s pretty easy. Keep it 1/8 inch or so below the glass channel! That glazed skull mountain looks like peanut brittle. Mmmmmm

#5813 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

How do folks feel about the repro mountain sets?

I have a repro set from starship (I think, bought from Marco, but I think Starship supplies them). They’re so close to the original, I actually only replaced the broken ones from the set and you wouldn’t notice the difference.

There’s some replacements out there that are glossy looking and much darker brown. I don’t have experience with them, but they definitely aren’t close to looking like the originals.

#5814 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I have a repro set from starship (I think, bought from Marco, but I think Starship supplies them). They’re so close to the original, I actually only replaced the broken ones from the set and you wouldn’t notice the difference.
There’s some replacements out there that are glossy looking and much darker brown. I don’t have experience with them, but they definitely aren’t close to looking like the originals.

The latest run by Starship is waaay darker than the original.
Here is my method:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/91#post-5367007

#5815 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

The latest run by Starship is waaay darker than the original.
Here is my method:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/91#post-5367007

Oh wow, that came out great

#5816 3 years ago

Has anyone heard of this company?

44B993D9-91C7-40AC-9024-463680B7406A (resized).png44B993D9-91C7-40AC-9024-463680B7406A (resized).png
#5817 3 years ago

Pinball.center is good to go. Shipping is killer. There are threads on pinside about getting a package forwarding service and getting things cheaper from them if you look. Ive ordered from them in the past, but shipped to a friend across the pond and had them ship to me in the US.

#5818 3 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Pinball.center is good to go. Shipping is killer. There are threads on pinside about getting a package forwarding service and getting things cheaper from them if you look. Ive ordered from them in the past, but shipped to a friend across the pond and had them ship to me in the US.

I just ordered one. Yes you are right it cost quite a bit for shipping!

#5819 3 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Pinball.center is good to go.

Be careful about plastics and translites, stickers.

#5820 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Oh wow, that came out great

Thanks. It's an easy process.

#5821 3 years ago
Quoted from Zartan:

I just ordered one. Yes you are right it cost quite a bit for shipping!

Not a lot you can do about international shipping costs. I recommend using a third party consolidator and have made a thread about it. Zitt on here carries a number of their products and often will add stuff on for others when he's ordering.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/german-mail-forwarding-workaround-for-pinball-center

#5822 3 years ago
Quoted from Zartan:

Has anyone heard of this company?[quoted image]

I've ordered at least 10 times from them, good supplier.

Only downside I've noticed personally (and as other mentioned here) is that some of their repro plastics and stickers have the wrong color tones. Other items have always been good.

#5823 3 years ago
Quoted from Zartan:

Has anyone heard of this company?[quoted image]

They are a favorite of mine for hard-to-find items. Often, they are the only ones who have a rare item. It’s expensive as heck, but I have a couple friends outside the states who are nice enough to help me out. Gotta find a workaround if you live in ‘Merca.

#5824 3 years ago

@the Onlyest and Sonic.... Thank you so much!
I got Sonic's switches today and not only do they work perfectly, they came wired correctly for Wh20 to idiot proof them for me. Took minutes and my switches work perfectly and look nice and stealthy!
What a nice guy to deal with and great product. I couldn't be happier with these!

So now my game is 99% working. Last issue is the boulder garden switch. So, it's wired up and the switch works, but it registers as switch 68 ( disaster drop entrance.)
I can't figure it out, because the opto on disaster drop registers properly as 68 too. The boulder garden switch is connected to a plug directly underneath it, no wiring looks hacked at that connector or on the boards. It's not like they were swapped with each other, which is what I was hoping for. Any ideas? I'm so psyched to be able to hot multimillions again!! This game is so awesome, I can't believe I ever sold my last one.

#5825 3 years ago

I'd start with the switch matrix in the manual. The correct wires to each switch ?

LTG : )

#5826 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd start with the switch matrix in the manual. The correct wires to each switch ?
LTG : )

Thanks, Lloyd.. just checked and the wire colors are correct. I just tested every other switch and they all come up appropriately. Only bigfoot's cave seems to be a duplicate, and none of the switches come up as big foot's cave.

#5827 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Last issue is the boulder garden switch. So, it's wired up and the switch works, but it registers as switch 68 ( disaster drop entrance.)
I can't figure it out, because the opto on disaster drop registers properly as 68 too. The boulder garden switch is connected to a plug directly underneath it, no wiring looks hacked at that connector or on the boards. It's not like they were swapped with each other, which is what I was hoping for. Any ideas?

I'd assume that the wires and/or diode orientation is wrong on that switch. Compare its lug connections to a similar type switch and make sure the diode is not backward.

#5828 3 years ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Also check the ball "cradle" at the top of the plunger. Often one (or more) of the four prongs will break off. If this happens, the ball can be resting in an offset position when the VUK fires.

I changed the broken (only 2 pins) ball cradle a couple of weeks ago and things seems to have improved but since a couple of days the issue is back. Not enough power to do eject on the upper VUK. (1 out of 5 is not getting out)

Anything else that can be done ?
Did anyone replace the coil with a more powerfull one?

#5829 3 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Anything else that can be done ?

Try it without the spring.

#5830 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I'd assume that the wires and/or diode orientation is wrong on that switch. Compare its lug connections to a similar type switch and make sure the diode is not backward.

Bingo! The white was to the center lug instead of the green. I think I make the mistake of believing that everyone else would make sure a switch was actually working after their hack repair.
Thank you so much for the advice. I am up and running 100% and it feels awesome!

#5831 3 years ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

I changed the broken (only 2 pins) ball cradle a couple of weeks ago and things seems to have improved but since a couple of days the issue is back. Not enough power to do eject on the upper VUK. (1 out of 5 is not getting out)
Anything else that can be done ?
Did anyone replace the coil with a more powerfull one?

Ensure the VUK wireform is securely seated in the holes at the bottom, if that's good try very slightly bending the bracket that holds the coil to better align the VUK to the wireform.

#5832 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Bingo! The white was to the center lug instead of the green. I think I make the mistake of believing that everyone else would make sure a switch was actually working after their hack repair.
Thank you so much for the advice. I am up and running 100% and it feels awesome!

It happens all the time, that mistake will make the switch matrix act nutty, I wont bore you with why... When I first got my game, everytime I triggered the insanity falls switch, one of the pop bumpers would fire... The really bizarre thing is, the switch was wired wrong at the factory!!

#5833 3 years ago

If anyone has the red west missing mountain and doesn't love it, I'm interested in buying.

#5834 3 years ago

Any ideas of what to look for to fix this? I was playing today and in the middle of a ball many of the insert lights went wonky and stayed on when they should have been off--and vice-versa. Shut the machine off, turned it back on and many of the insert lights were solidly lit instead of going into attract mode.

#5835 3 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Any ideas of what to look for to fix this? I was playing today and in the middle of a ball many of the insert lights went wonky and stayed on when they should have been off--and vice-versa. Shut the machine off, turned it back on and many of the insert lights were solidly lit instead of going into attract mode.

Check your light matrix.. those Q chips are tip 102 or 107 i think.. lower right quadrant of the driver board, probably one of those died, you should be able to track it down by what lamps are solid. Edit: if you have a WPC schematic manual look at Power Driver Board sheet 2 pg 3, that might help too.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#5836 3 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Check your light matrix.. those Q chips are tip 102 or 107 i think.. lower right quadrant of the driver board, probably one of those died, you should be able to track it down by what lamps are solid. Edit: if you have a WPC schematic manual look at Power Driver Board sheet 2 pg 3, that might help too.
[quoted image]

Thank you. Electrics are not my strong suit, I'm guessing that one transistor controls several lights on a circuit? Quite a few are locked on, and it will not go into attract mode at all.

I opened up the backbox and reseated a few connectors after not finding any obviously blown components. Now everything is back to normal. Have no idea of what was going on or how it is now working...hope it stays this way.

#5837 3 years ago

Anyone know a source with new translite in stock? Some clown used a thick layer of white out on a scratch right behind the rafting girls face and it looks like she has a bloody nose when it's lit up.
I tried to get the white out to soften up and remove it, but no dice.

#5838 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Anyone know a source with new translite in stock? Some clown used a thick layer of white out on a scratch right behind the rafting girls face and it looks like she has a bloody nose when it's lit up.
I tried to get the white out to soften up and remove it, but no dice.

I'm not sure about an original one.
If you have trouble finding one, there's a pretty sweet alternative translite.

#5839 3 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

I'm not sure about an original one.
If you have trouble finding one, there's a pretty sweet alternative translite.

Thanks, I don't care for that one. Looking for a new original.

#5840 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Thanks, I don't care for that one. Looking for a new original.

Is 3D an option?

#5841 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Is 3D an option?

I don't mind the 3d, but it's like twice as expensive as the original. I was hoping maybe someone upgraded to the 3d or the remake art version and wanted to sell an original.

#5842 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Thanks, I don't care for that one. Looking for a new original.

I have an original. I don’t know what they go for.

#5843 3 years ago

You can buy a new one from Flyland....Speaking of Flyland I ordered Inner side Art from them 4 weeks ago and haven't seen it yet.

#5844 3 years ago
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:

You can buy a new one from Flyland....Speaking of Flyland I ordered Inner side Art from them 4 weeks ago and haven't seen it yet.

It's new, but it's an alternate art package. I much prefer the original in this case. I get it when alternate art is done for games like the shadow, but wh20 already has great original art. I was hoping someone had replaced a good condition original with that one and might want to sell.

#5845 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

It's new, but it's an alternate art package. I much prefer the original in this case. I get it when alternate art is done for games like the shadow, but wh20 already has great original art. I was hoping someone had replaced a good condition original with that one and might want to sell.

I agree, it's a nice art by Youssi.

#5846 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Anyone know a source with new translite in stock? Some clown used a thick layer of white out on a scratch right behind the rafting girls face and it looks like she has a bloody nose when it's lit up.
I tried to get the white out to soften up and remove it, but no dice.

Does this not work for you?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-31-1357-50018&Category_Code=GS-2768

#5847 3 years ago

I ordered one from them two weeks ago and they are out of stock, no ETA I'd prefer they mark it out of stock than accept payment only to tell you it's out of stock and ask if you want a refund.

#5848 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I ordered one from them two weeks ago and they are out of stock, no ETA I'd prefer they mark it out of stock than accept payment only to tell you it's out of stock and ask if you want a refund.

Oh geez, that sucks.

#5849 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I ordered one from them two weeks ago and they are out of stock, no ETA I'd prefer they mark it out of stock than accept payment only to tell you it's out of stock and ask if you want a refund.

If all else fails, there is a repro source in Europe.
I can help about postage (if direct shipping to USA is not possible).

#5850 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

If all else fails, there is a repro source in Europe.
I can help about postage (if direct shipping to USA is not possible).

Thanks. I put the translite face down last night and put little puddles of water where the genius gobbed on whiteout. And it actually softened it up so I was able to scrape it off with a fingernail. The bloody nose is gone now. He covered up a miniscule scratch with a huge gob of the stuff.
Anyway, it is presentable now, but does have a whole bunch of pinholes showing light thru if you really look. I'm ok with it, but I would still be I tereated in buying a new or really nice condition used one. Thanks, guys

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Burlington, MA
$ 399.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 119.99
Cabinet - (Alt) Translites
FlyLand Designs
 
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 9.95
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
$ 12.95
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 225.00
Cabinet - (Alt) Translites
FlyLand Designs
 
$ 5.95
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
$ 34.99
Rubber/Silicone
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
Lenticular Designs
 
$ 1,059.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
From: $ 30.00
$ 84.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
FlyLand Designs
 
$ 12.95
$ 69.50
Boards
Pinball Haus
 
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
6,800 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Cincinnati, OH
$ 10.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Nampa, ID
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 225.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 60.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
 
From: $ 30.00
7,800 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Stockton, CA
$ 449.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
 
There are 7,932 posts in this topic. You are on page 117 of 159.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.