Yes, that is the decal. They seem to be sold out everywhere, I got mine from a pinsider who is downsizing.

Yep, one of the best mods I have put into a machine. Blue LEDs lighting up the ramps look awesome!

I went to visit the Whitewater that I am picking up from my friend. It's a bit rougher than he remembered (had been sitting folded. Three or so broken boulders, some broken plastics, broken ramps, these lovely sheet rock screw op mods and two sunken inserts. I am still grabbing it, it's just going to be more of a project than I bargained for.

I have read the repro ramps that are available don't fit that great so not sure what to do there. Would love to hear your thoughts.

How do folks feel about the repro mountain sets?

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As usual, LTG, you are the man! Got my manual today and sure enough, the connector for those flashers was plugged in the wrong spot! This was the same case with the fishtales I picked up last year, how do people just plug connectors in randomly?!
All good now! Thank you

@nerdygrrl..
I installed repro boulders and a full set of ramps in my last wh20 and both looked great. I had no issues with the ramps being too thick that I can remember, and they make the whole game look clean.

I recently replaced a couple ramps and they seem pretty close, certainly tolerable in terms of fit. They look amazing when new too. I bought that same replacement Boulder in your pic and it’s much darker than the original ones. But I suppose it could be painted. I did burn some coin on a full set of the white/blue arctic version, while they are available. Around $250 I think. Or you can replace the entire set of brown ones for around $200 or a little more. Good luck with your pin!

I did burn some coin on a full set of the white/blue arctic version, while they are available. Around $250 I think. Or you can replace the entire set of brown ones for around $200 or a little more.

I really like the look of the white/blue arctic mountains it really looks sharp!

I have read the repro ramps that are available don't fit that great so not sure what to do there. Would love to hear your thoughts.
How do folks feel about the repro mountain sets?
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I think my ramps are reproduction. My ball used to get stuck under a switch. Outside of that they look and work great. Good luck with your project!

I clear coated the “skull Mountain” quite nervous about putting it in! It will be dry in an hour or so we will see...

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My side art is here as well. I think it will take me a few beer, but I’m giving it a try tonight as well...

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Be sure to have a "helper" when putting on the side art. With two people it's pretty easy...with one it's very hard.

This.

Skull Mountain is installed!

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Agree. I’ve put on dozens of these, and the one time I did it alone was a pain. It can be done, but with 2 people holding each end it’s pretty easy. Keep it 1/8 inch or so below the glass channel! That glazed skull mountain looks like peanut brittle. Mmmmmm

I have a repro set from starship (I think, bought from Marco, but I think Starship supplies them). They’re so close to the original, I actually only replaced the broken ones from the set and you wouldn’t notice the difference.

There’s some replacements out there that are glossy looking and much darker brown. I don’t have experience with them, but they definitely aren’t close to looking like the originals.

The latest run by Starship is waaay darker than the original.
Here is my method:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/91#post-5367007

Oh wow, that came out great

Has anyone heard of this company?

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Pinball.center is good to go. Shipping is killer. There are threads on pinside about getting a package forwarding service and getting things cheaper from them if you look. Ive ordered from them in the past, but shipped to a friend across the pond and had them ship to me in the US.

I just ordered one. Yes you are right it cost quite a bit for shipping!

Be careful about plastics and translites, stickers.

Thanks. It's an easy process.

Not a lot you can do about international shipping costs. I recommend using a third party consolidator and have made a thread about it. Zitt on here carries a number of their products and often will add stuff on for others when he's ordering.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/german-mail-forwarding-workaround-for-pinball-center

I've ordered at least 10 times from them, good supplier.

Only downside I've noticed personally (and as other mentioned here) is that some of their repro plastics and stickers have the wrong color tones. Other items have always been good.

They are a favorite of mine for hard-to-find items. Often, they are the only ones who have a rare item. It’s expensive as heck, but I have a couple friends outside the states who are nice enough to help me out. Gotta find a workaround if you live in ‘Merca.

@the Onlyest and Sonic.... Thank you so much!
I got Sonic's switches today and not only do they work perfectly, they came wired correctly for Wh20 to idiot proof them for me. Took minutes and my switches work perfectly and look nice and stealthy!
What a nice guy to deal with and great product. I couldn't be happier with these!

So now my game is 99% working. Last issue is the boulder garden switch. So, it's wired up and the switch works, but it registers as switch 68 ( disaster drop entrance.)
I can't figure it out, because the opto on disaster drop registers properly as 68 too. The boulder garden switch is connected to a plug directly underneath it, no wiring looks hacked at that connector or on the boards. It's not like they were swapped with each other, which is what I was hoping for. Any ideas? I'm so psyched to be able to hot multimillions again!! This game is so awesome, I can't believe I ever sold my last one.

I'd start with the switch matrix in the manual. The correct wires to each switch ?

LTG : )

Thanks, Lloyd.. just checked and the wire colors are correct. I just tested every other switch and they all come up appropriately. Only bigfoot's cave seems to be a duplicate, and none of the switches come up as big foot's cave.

I'd assume that the wires and/or diode orientation is wrong on that switch. Compare its lug connections to a similar type switch and make sure the diode is not backward.

I changed the broken (only 2 pins) ball cradle a couple of weeks ago and things seems to have improved but since a couple of days the issue is back. Not enough power to do eject on the upper VUK. (1 out of 5 is not getting out)

Anything else that can be done ?
Did anyone replace the coil with a more powerfull one?

Try it without the spring.

Bingo! The white was to the center lug instead of the green. I think I make the mistake of believing that everyone else would make sure a switch was actually working after their hack repair.
Thank you so much for the advice. I am up and running 100% and it feels awesome!

Ensure the VUK wireform is securely seated in the holes at the bottom, if that's good try very slightly bending the bracket that holds the coil to better align the VUK to the wireform.

It happens all the time, that mistake will make the switch matrix act nutty, I wont bore you with why... When I first got my game, everytime I triggered the insanity falls switch, one of the pop bumpers would fire... The really bizarre thing is, the switch was wired wrong at the factory!!

If anyone has the red west missing mountain and doesn't love it, I'm interested in buying.

Any ideas of what to look for to fix this? I was playing today and in the middle of a ball many of the insert lights went wonky and stayed on when they should have been off--and vice-versa. Shut the machine off, turned it back on and many of the insert lights were solidly lit instead of going into attract mode.

Check your light matrix.. those Q chips are tip 102 or 107 i think.. lower right quadrant of the driver board, probably one of those died, you should be able to track it down by what lamps are solid. Edit: if you have a WPC schematic manual look at Power Driver Board sheet 2 pg 3, that might help too.
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Thank you. Electrics are not my strong suit, I'm guessing that one transistor controls several lights on a circuit? Quite a few are locked on, and it will not go into attract mode at all.

I opened up the backbox and reseated a few connectors after not finding any obviously blown components. Now everything is back to normal. Have no idea of what was going on or how it is now working...hope it stays this way.

Anyone know a source with new translite in stock? Some clown used a thick layer of white out on a scratch right behind the rafting girls face and it looks like she has a bloody nose when it's lit up.
I tried to get the white out to soften up and remove it, but no dice.

Thanks, I don't care for that one. Looking for a new original.

Is 3D an option?

I don't mind the 3d, but it's like twice as expensive as the original. I was hoping maybe someone upgraded to the 3d or the remake art version and wanted to sell an original.

I have an original. I don’t know what they go for.

You can buy a new one from Flyland....Speaking of Flyland I ordered Inner side Art from them 4 weeks ago and haven't seen it yet.

It's new, but it's an alternate art package. I much prefer the original in this case. I get it when alternate art is done for games like the shadow, but wh20 already has great original art. I was hoping someone had replaced a good condition original with that one and might want to sell.

I agree, it's a nice art by Youssi.

Does this not work for you?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-31-1357-50018&Category_Code=GS-2768

I ordered one from them two weeks ago and they are out of stock, no ETA I'd prefer they mark it out of stock than accept payment only to tell you it's out of stock and ask if you want a refund.

Oh geez, that sucks.

If all else fails, there is a repro source in Europe.
I can help about postage (if direct shipping to USA is not possible).

Thanks. I put the translite face down last night and put little puddles of water where the genius gobbed on whiteout. And it actually softened it up so I was able to scrape it off with a fingernail. The bloody nose is gone now. He covered up a miniscule scratch with a huge gob of the stuff.
Anyway, it is presentable now, but does have a whole bunch of pinholes showing light thru if you really look. I'm ok with it, but I would still be I tereated in buying a new or really nice condition used one. Thanks, guys