If you read it the other way, it spells RIVER. The stickers match the letters on the playfield.

Those should just probably have a design on them and no letters. I agree, all i see is REVIR.

I noticed the same, while they match the inserts having those on the targets makes us english readers see it backwards.

I thought the same thing, but from the players perspective it will be river from top to bottom. Since the photo is taken from the side, you read it left to right.

Rollin’
Rollin’
Rollin’ on the REVIR!

They are just prototypes. Probably just artwork and no letters is the way to go.

You have to get mirror blades to read it. Like REDRUM

Hah. Totally missed that.

Anyone know where you can buy this silver thing from for the topper? Assume it’s there to help disperse the light from the bulbs? (Circled in red)

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Normally in print/decal shops. Look for chrome/mirror vinyl.
Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/12x78Chrome-Mirror-Silver-Sticker-Self-adhesive/dp/B00LY81CAY

That is hilarious. I thought the same thing.

Is that factory? Mine doesn't have that.

Yes, it's factory.

[FOUND ONE]

New to the club, picked up mine in France last week (live in Belgium). Amazing Pinball and fits real nicely near my Whirlwind !

Had J120 which was burned out and replaced it with a new connector (IDC) but upper playfield still wasn't lit up. I was told to swap J121 with J120.
The upper playfield came a live !!! but after 30sec... gone.
When I push on either J120 or 121 it starts lightning up again for a couple of sec.

Is resoldering the only thing I can do here? Not very confident in taking out this 20 connector based mainboard....

Sounds like some broken solder joints on the headers which you'd have to pull the board to re-flow, it's really not that hard and just label any connectors you are worried about getting back into the correct spots. It could also be some wires not making good contact in the new IDC connector so you could try giving them a once-over first.

Ok gonna start with the once-over first.
If I take out the PCB should I wear gloves or watch out for something in particular (except labeling of the connectors )?
Do you put it on a workbench (plastic), desk (wood) or on a cloth on a table...
Thx

Don't you love it when you're working from home and you take a break to play pinball?

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Great score!

I had a couple tech errors after bringing my White Water downstairs last night. The upper flipper EOS switch and the secret passage switch. Turned out the secret passage simply hadn’t been hit in forever, and that went away when I finally made that lucky shot. A wire on the upper flipper EOS switch had broken off the previous solder. It was very tight and not easy to reach under the upper pf, testing my solder skills. But I was able to solder it back on and now zero warnings. Great when it goes that way.

I also added some wood-grain flipper toppers, which look kinda like oars.

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On my machine, sometimes if I hit the Bigfoot targets from the left flipper just right, the ball will ricochet up the left orbit and down the secret passage. Not a very reproducible shot, but fun to try for anyway. Damn this table is awesome.

If you just replaced the connector. You get to do it again. And pins on the board. Unless you do both they go to crap very fast.

Manual has connector info. Pictures, notes, label connectors. You'll be fine.

LTG : )

It really is. I was always lukewarm on this title until owning one. Now I’m sold. It really has that “world under glass” feel. More to do than it first seems.

ok, hopefully the last thing I need, to finish my restore... A DMD. Anyone who converted to color or LED have a nice, bright, and 100% working original DMD they wanna sell? I'd be interested in an LED also, as long its a direct replacement for the high voltage original.

I have original dmd's from Champion Pub and World Cup Soccer 94. Not sure if either of those are compatible.

Yes, both/either would be! Please PM me with an asking price.

I have the habit of always touching the ground wire inside the cabinet when I start to work on a machine, but if you touch another metal part (like the metal backpanel on which the boards are mounted) that's also good. I haven't heard that there are many components that are static electric sensitive (on older games the 5101 rams are) but it doesn't hurt..

Workbench material doesn't matter much as long as it doesn't generate a static charge.. so some types of plastic are maybe not a good idea. Not a metal surface as the capacitors can hold a charge that you can short when you put the pcb somewhere.. learned that the hard way a long time ago by putting a dmd controller board on the metal lid of a coinbox..

Did anyone tried any of these paints? and if so which one is closest to the backbox blue ?

https://uk.humbrol.com/search?encoded=rVhLb6MwEP41zQWttO1htRe06mP3tlKkVu0BIcuYCVh1MGubNvn36wRISWLscZRTHDLzzfcAQ_ilQHfCvGxbSFsly46ZhaBNtaSmTutuXSgpvnXvC0YNVFJt05byxuiF7gpyOAYNXYMgw0__0kJ0sFhxYUDprD-aZ0dFebamTUmN7c6zYe4BL0-XXSG4_cplo5Obux_JIzVUyKoDfXP3-HuPlCz7caE5vCGt4gzy9HuY02asvf0ZKh5ZW5PIuP6QolvbbmwvqzhZ8Ybr2tFDmdpaF67h2H0PNWfZ6aQRvlUgVQkKQ85n87kSn89zbFBGzzXT1SbsdKlk24IihTRGwHUsf-oxk4ceEz_bEwIFJbUURLeKbicYp8e99EeC931T8rxvip5xDZqucwev0XUuxbL3nluxYM5zbQ7kg6pd5WXZvfbNsRnOzbwgy1n6MZnOexCTbUjVRRmHQFFZr8FuDEwaiEv579iGzXd-TkSyHrKYTH1aMWmGNUTlGIZDJTjcvy-6WIfHlchrNTAxItAQd0yqQf2YaJGSovJFYjpDLlSna9CEcrVf5pnmTSWADD8Ecn3eFycPfXEEqic7BCVXXBglroTO-_Yf9umJvYfk73XbJ0pbicWLEn7MBKf6hD1O8tfKf88dylBIUUonBHAyp4xdGpm0T6VNpYmpedPYI3k2XCDBk_p1rEOCeYQGWLikhojHi0VtKjgI5x7iaC2BUbHim4DTT7uyP3yDg4rzeUIBafOUNNLlc3KxJn-tvE69DGU4qDinJhSQTk1JI506J-d16hOoqUFZkHyyJq38LMNmvR0akmXfgMb1OBek5DIvrMPlH5Yl3kKK2Pfe6NGm5-rH2kM9G5ybV9AGGrGZgdbQGE6FbWBSyE4RVlNl9E7t8H7i8jcbzjGUMftVKg7hP66HyjCSx_D56S7XPVyn1tujhhRb26iA2Yma7F7ItLSC9PZu0X_-Bw

So, I did a resoldering of all pins on J120 / 121. I did an extra cable push in with my IDC 0.156" tool but still the upper playfield has no light.
When I hit the back of the backbox it turns on... for a couple of seconds...
What else could I check or do?

Power to the left side of the driver board ? Power leaving J120 and J121 ( AC, measure hot to common not to ground ) Power at the sockets ?

First try and figure where power stops. Could be connector issue at transformer, connector to board, connector off board. Even if you respldered the pins, you might have lost through board continuity. That you'd check from a connector pin soldered to the board, to a spot on the board away from the repair area.

Once you figure out where power stops then you know what needs fixin.

LTG : )

The piss poor contacts inside the female connectors have only one point of contact. The headers on the PCB will become a problem due to heat created from this. Failure to replace the Female Conector WILL result in burnt tracks and eventually destroy the PCB. Great Plains Electronics are very cheap and they sell the much better Contacts and new connector shells. Just order the big ones and cut them to suit. The new Contacts have twice the contact surface area and will never fail again.

J115......J120.....J121 all need to be replaced....They are all part of the GI lighting Train.

CS156-19-V0 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 19 Pin
08-52-0113 Crimp Contact, 0.156", Trifurcon, 18-20AWG

Now would be a good time to do a Blanket Capacitor change on the Driver Board if it hasn't already been done.

For clarity the Driver Board Header Connector failure is a result of the Playfield female Connectors. When the Females are replaced you can actually leave the headers alone if you are not confident in soldering. Having said that you will need to get up to speed with Crimping if soldering is not your thing or hand it over

He stated in his original post that he's replaced the female connector with another IDC one, not what I would recommend but many people aren't comfortable with the process of converting them to crimp style.

Unless the person is very skilled at board repair, I wouldn't do this. You'll do more damage than good. Pulling up traces and ruining through hole continuity.

Pinside has horror stories of people doing this or even changing out one.

LTG : )

Thx guys,
I was told it could be a ground problem and fixed the screws of the driver more tigthly, no result
Also added an extra metal ring to get a better ground connectivity to the lower left screw of the board, no result

I'll swap both connectors with crimp style ones to get more contact, took IDC ones as it looked more obvious.
Hope this connector swap will fix it. Tired of hitting the back box to get lights

Did not really understood what LTG meant in regards of measuring, I'll send you a PM as it looks very interesting to try as well.
Not skilled at board repair but can solder.

What is the most recent rom version for coin-op?

The arms are just hollow fabric. I’d bet yours has come unglued from the factory somewhere.....or something isn’t lining up correctly in the movement.

Post a video of it. It will help us understand better

I had a number of problems with switches and jets going crazy and swapped the CPU board for a new PinLed version... (Now I see it don't seems to be the best choice but problems are gone).

However new issue came up: resets during the game. Strange I didn't have this prob with the older (original board).
Anything I can do or should I return the board? and buy one with intergated anti-reset module?

Check your power supply voltages.

What started as a quick switch adjustment became a replacement of my Spine Chiller ramp. Went smooth and turned out great!

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Cool! I replaced all 7 ramps a couple weeks ago... My ass still hurts.

Nice job! SEVEN ramps. That’s bonkers. Would they ever make a game like this again? I found new appreciation for this game last night just replacing one ramp. They are all intertwined and wrapped around each other. It’s an incredible design. What a game.

Never been a fan of the Skull Cave myself. Looks out of place to me.
I see more and more Grizzly Bears

IMG_2619 (resized).JPG

I have an extra set of custom REVIR target decals if anyone would like them on their game. PM me and I’ll mail them to you. No charge. UPDATE: Someone claimed these. Thank you!

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I thought I started to notice the sound on my game getting quieter at times as I was playing over the past couple weeks, but I was not sure.

Now I am sure.

I took a video today showing that the sounds gets quieter at times, possibly when I push a flipper button, and then returns to normal, again possibly when I push a flipper button. It has cut out completely and then starts again.

Anyone have thoughts on how I can pinpoint what it might be? Thanks for any guidance here. I’m not a very technically savvy person but really am trying to get better with troubleshooting and repairing these games.

Finished the vacation planner for the first time today and joined the billion club! I won’t describe what happens when you start multiball while on class 6, having completed Boulder garden and Wet Willie’s, but it took me by surprise and scared me a little! Lol. What a fantastic game.

Bigfoot shaved his head.

Yeah, that's the only thing left that I havn't decided how to handle yet, I would prefer to find a complete original head WITH hair to replace, but the game plays fine with bald bigfoot. The rest of the work is done... Thanks of course to a few new friends from this thread that helped me out with some crucial parts!
IMG_6338 (resized).JPGIMG_6340 (resized).JPGIMG_6341 (resized).JPG

I've seen the words - craft, hobby shops mentioned here about that issue.

Your game's looking great.

It sounds like your caps are bad on your sound board. You should look at them and see if you can see any leakage.