White Water
Williams, 1993Quoted from dusin1:They look like vinyl caps over a regular star post. Do the blue caps come off?
Looks like you're right, there's definitely a screw that goes through all the way and this is a cap that goes over the top. Still not sure if it's a custom thing or something you can buy from a store. Definitely a slick solution.
Quoted from daveyvandy:like you're right, there's definitely a screw that goes through all the way and this is a cap that goes over the top. Still not sure if it's a custom thing or something you can buy from a store. Definitely a slick solution.
I just use a small cloth when I tilt the pf.
Quoted from mastercello:Very nice! So you did also light up the lost mine mountain with the same matrix strips, right?
Looks like blue bulb condoms stretch over the post
Could anyone upload a photo of how the topper dome screws onto the head of the cabinet? I just got a replacement, and one side has a couple of bigger holes at the corners, and the other doesn't. There's a bunch of empty screw holes on the top of my game as well. I'm just not sure what the correct way to do it is.
Quoted from Pinkitten:I’m sure it’s something obvious, but what are the two star posts above the plunger on WH2O
They look like vinyl caps over a regular star post. Do the blue caps come off?
Its ordinary colored bulb "condoms" put over star posts. Yes, you can easily remove them.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:My problem is not the metal ball guides but the actual crack between the mini pf and the ramp. I tried to "stretch" the ramp a bit further but as it's fastened in the other end too I can't close that last little gap. The gap is only about ~2 mm in size but it's still enough to get the ball stuck if it travels slow enough over it. I tried to cover the gap with mylar but no big difference. Also tried to put a partial toothpick below the mylar to even out the gap but still capturing balls.
The previous owner "solved" this problem by increasing the game inclination a lot, but that only made it really hard to go up all ramps, so that's not a viable solution imo. Currently I'm used to shake the game now and then to get the ball loose (often tilting the game in progress) but I really want to solve it once and for all somehow.
Been thinking of maybe using synthetic wood to fill the gap, but I want a solution that doesn't damage the game and still make me able to remove the ramp/mini pf for service and so on.
I believe your issue is the backspin off the VUK. If you install small post rings on the VUK, it can remove this. I have an old post on here, but can probably post up a video soon. It eliminates this issue for me.
Quoted from Jon9508:Looks like blue bulb condoms stretch over the post
I did the same to my game. Those screw heads left nasty scratches on the head of my game. Annoying since overall game in great shape.
Quoted from jawjaw:I did the same to my game. Those screw heads left nasty scratches on the head of my game. Annoying since overall game in great shape.
Yep, me too. It's especially annoying since that black metal piece on the head does not seem to be available anywhere. Someday I will have to remove mine and get it sanded / repainted.
Quoted from judremy:I believe your issue is the backspin off the VUK. If you install small post rings on the VUK, it can remove this. I have an old post on here, but can probably post up a video soon. It eliminates this issue for me.
Mine did the same and once I cut and installed a post rink on the right of the VUK it stopped
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Quoted from whthrs166:I just use a small cloth when I tilt the pf.
I put a towel or cloth on the back box for every game. So many can cause damage. Potc jjp and totan a few to come to mind.
Hey gang, after 4 long years of obsessive searching, I have finally joined the club! I traded my mint CQ Demolition Man straight-up for the turd pictured below...
It basically works 100%, including the topper! I'ts got a good PF with no real wear, and the cab is just as ugly, but its straight, solid and all the corners are sharp! Obviously i'm about to take on a full restoration, and since there's several bits missing on the PF, I may need to ask for a little advice.
IMG_6300 (resized).JPGIMG_6301 (resized).JPGQuoted from TheOnlyest:Hey gang, after 4 long years of obsessive searching, I have finally joined the club! I traded my mint CQ Demolition Man straight-up for the turd pictured below...
It basically works 100%, including the topper! I'ts got a good PF with no real wear, and the cab is just as ugly, but its straight, solid and all the corners are sharp! Obviously i'm about to take on a full restoration, and since there's several bits missing on the PF, I may need to ask for a little advice.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Welcome to the club
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Hey gang, after 4 long years of obsessive searching, I have finally joined the club! I traded my mint CQ Demolition Man straight-up for the turd pictured below...
It basically works 100%, including the topper! I'ts got a good PF with no real wear, and the cab is just as ugly, but its straight, solid and all the corners are sharp! Obviously i'm about to take on a full restoration, and since there's several bits missing on the PF, I may need to ask for a little advice.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Glad to see you Here theonlyest from the Cyclone forums. Mine was a rescue as well, with Mud dobber nests in the backboard.
Quoted from J67ab:Glad to see you Here theonlyest from the Cyclone forums. Mine was a rescue as well, with Mud dobber nests in the backboard.
lol, thanks bro, maybe my turd isnt so bad afterall!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:lol, thanks bro, maybe my turd isnt so bad afterall!
I picked up a turd WH2O this time last year and I did not do a full restore but got it playing fantastic.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Hey gang, after 4 long years of obsessive searching, I have finally joined the club! I traded my mint CQ Demolition Man straight-up for the turd pictured below...
It basically works 100%, including the topper! I'ts got a good PF with no real wear, and the cab is just as ugly, but its straight, solid and all the corners are sharp! Obviously i'm about to take on a full restoration, and since there's several bits missing on the PF, I may need to ask for a little advice.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I bought my WW in 2005. It was in terrible shape. All ramps needed replacing as well as a new mountain/boulder set. The head hold down latch was broken right out along with a chunk of wood. As well there was the usual bare wood at the lost mine exit. It didn't power up. At the time WW was considered one of those B- machines. And I remember someone writing on RGP that it wasn't worth the cost of replacing the ramps and boulders. So, I had it shipped in NAVL on it's legs. It's been one of my best pins! I enjoyed polishing my "turd" and I hope it's as enjoyable for you.
Quoted from Jon9508:Anyone have the shaker motor that piggy backs off the pimsound board? I was thinking about getting one and was curious how the intergragration was.
It doesn't look like anyone has posted a shaker program for W2H0 yet. You can create your own... the shaker can be programmed to activate when certain sounds or events occur during the game. https://www.pinsound.org/motion-control-shaker/
I have a PinSound shaker in my Getaway... and I'm very happy with it.
Quoted from dusin1:I bought my WW in 2005. It was in terrible shape. All ramps needed replacing as well as a new mountain/boulder set. The head hold down latch was broken right out along with a chunk of wood. As well there was the usual bare wood at the lost mine exit. It didn't power up. At the time WW was considered one of those B- machines. And I remember someone writing on RGP that it wasn't worth the cost of replacing the ramps and boulders. So, I had it shipped in NAVL on it's legs. It's been one of my best pins! I enjoyed polishing my "turd" and I hope it's as enjoyable for you.
It would be interesting to see a list of when people bought their WH20 (and price/condition), just to see how it has changed over the years. I will start off...
Bought in late 1996 for $900 from an arcade that was closing. Machine was filthy but complete and working (with a couple of broken switches). Topper complete and in very good shape.
Quoted from mbeardsley:It would be interesting to see a list of when people bought their WH20 (and price/condition), just to see how it has changed over the years. I will start off...
Bought in late 1996 for $900 from an arcade that was closing. Machine was filthy but complete and working (with a couple of broken switches). Topper complete and in very good shape.
I got my first one 6 years ago for $2800. Mostly worked and did a full restore with the help of Mike Chestnut. I got the one I have now a year ago for $3200 and it was a trainwreck. I did not want to put another $3000 and 40 hours of work into this one so just got it working and put in gameroom.
Quoted from mbeardsley:It would be interesting to see a list of when people bought their WH20 (and price/condition), just to see how it has changed over the years. I will start off...
Bought in late 1996 for $900 from an arcade that was closing. Machine was filthy but complete and working (with a couple of broken switches). Topper complete and in very good shape.
Bought mine in 2008 for $1800. Absolutely beautiful machine. Near perfect except for some cabinet and topper fade.
Quoted from Jon9508:Definitely a little more then most.
6 months ago. 6300.
New ramps, New mountains, New plastics. Pinduo insanity falls lights. Playfield is is decent. Normal lost mine wear. Working topper, Typical cab fade.
I've got you beat.
I paid $6800 april of 2020 for a restored one. New ramps brought that cost up for sure.
After I brought it home, I added mirror blades, spotlights, brighter LEDs, LED/GI OCD boards, color DMD and some mods.
All in, it's expensive but this one is bolted to the floor.
I do wish I had gotten into pinball 10 or 20 years ago for some of those low prices you guys got!
16153986579866307420519685352397 (resized).jpgPaid $6250 last month for a partially restored one with new cab decals and nice original pf with new clear coat on it. Topper is very nice. Boulders and ramps are all nice. Ramps were probably replaced because they are very clear. White powder coat with blue sparkle. I added a new lock bar receiver, the original was showing age. I added color DMD and new blades and sling plastics and some target decals and little mods. It’s a very nice example. I have a little over $7k into it.
C764A889-184F-43FC-B410-A5C9EAE9D878 (resized).jpegD903BAFE-66B6-4FC0-99F7-8925C76272AD (resized).jpegQuoted from mbeardsley:It would be interesting to see a list of when people bought their WH20 (and price/condition), just to see how it has changed over the years. I will start off...
January 2005 Very nice condition, all complete with topper, only blemish lost-mine drop spot, for 700 Euro.
(That was just before the Dutchies picked-up on the American prices 
)
If anyone has a nice speaker panel they really don't need please send me a PM. Mine has a big long scratch in it that is very annoying.
Got mine off Ebay in November 2020 for $6,350. The nicest original example I have seen. Original cabinet near perfect decals and colors. Original pf no damage very low play wear. Clean shooter lane. Original board set. Original ramps and boulders with no damage. Topper looks and works like new. No lockbar holes. The game came from a private collection in northern VA.
2DA97088-3059-4CBF-93B5-4AD70D9B5A30 (resized).jpegDB8EB4EF-26D8-40DE-AAEB-4505FABC8795 (resized).jpegQuoted from mbeardsley:It would be interesting to see a list of when people bought their WH20 (and price/condition), just to see how it has changed over the years. I will start off...
Bought in late 1996 for $900 from an arcade that was closing. Machine was filthy but complete and working (with a couple of broken switches). Topper complete and in very good shape.
Mine that I mentioned above I bought in 2005 for $1200.
Bought mine May 1st, 2016. Paid $4,000, and I thought I was overpaying. It Came out of a basement of a retired heart surgeon who bought it NIB for his daughters. Even though it was HUO, it was well loved and had some dodgy “home repairs.” Still has the goodie bag though, and the topper is nearly flawless!
In hindsight, it was a solid buy. It’s never leaving my collection.
Hey folks I have a question for you. I’ve noticed on my white water during multi ball the ball gets stacked up on the upper play field.
After closer inspection it would appear that When a ball lands on that upper play field from the VUK it has backspin which causes it to roll slightly backwards up the ramp and then come down towards the flipper... That’s when that happens in multi ball you get a congested mess of balls and then they all hit the flipper roughly at the same time.
Any suggestions on how to reconcile this thank you so much
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey folks I have a question for you. I’ve noticed on my white water during multi ball the ball gets stacked up on the upper play field.
After closer inspection it would appear that When a ball lands on that upper play field from the VUK it has backspin which causes it to roll slightly backwards up the ramp and then come down towards the flipper... That’s when that happens in multi ball you get a congested mess of balls and then they all hit the flipper roughly at the same time.
Any suggestions on how to reconcile this thank you so much
We all have this same problem, or at least I do and I've seen other write about similar experiences. Not aware of a reliable fix for it.
I've tried the "fix" of putting rubbers at the VUK exit and while it may have made the backspin slightly better it's still there. I also increased the playfield angle slightly to get the balls faster down to the flipper and it helps a bit, but also made ramps harder to get up so...
If you find a reliable remedy without side effects then please tell us.
Quoted from dusin1:Mine that I mentioned above I bought in 2005 for $1200.
Bought mine in 2000 for $360.
Those were the days 
Quoted from BentleyBear:Bought mine in 2000 for $360.
Those were the days
yep, back when you could get pretty much anything for $1500 or less
Quoted from woody76:yep, back when you could get pretty much anything for $1500 or less
Except you couldn't find parts back then.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:We all have this same problem, or at least I do and I've seen other write about similar experiences. Not aware of a reliable fix for it.
I've tried the "fix" of putting rubbers at the VUK exit and while it may have made the backspin slightly better it's still there. I also increased the playfield angle slightly to get the balls faster down to the flipper and it helps a bit, but also made ramps harder to get up so...
If you find a reliable remedy without side effects then please tell us.
Thank you for the reply... interestingly when I restored my game the previous owner had shimmed two of the upper playfield supports to increase the angle... I might consider adding them back.
guys looking to buy the back box decals (only). Let me know if anyone in the club has some that they dont plan to install or will part with.
Quoted from Elicash:guys looking to buy the back box decals (only). Let me know if anyone in the club has some that they dont plan to install or will part with.
I have a set. Pm me
I traded a mint sopranos for WH20 and $1500. It was in bad shape. In a smoker’s home for 20 years.
Much to my chagrin, I was able to completely get rid of the smell using an 03 machine. Did a complete restore on it.
050098B3-2D37-4E92-9FE5-5357924438AC (resized).jpeg0DA1F267-69B2-4D51-9E85-AB8FC72AB19A (resized).jpeg145C307E-CFDE-4C9E-BBBF-328D45479411 (resized).jpeg1AA083BA-8BD4-4ED5-A957-34F3EE657B6A (resized).jpeg30288683-64E9-4152-949C-8186B551FA37 (resized).jpeg3D34B28D-8816-46CD-A514-8F8F39C33BB4 (resized).jpeg56824AAE-BCFD-4F68-88D4-54EDF7FCCBCF (resized).jpeg6B6E13E3-6510-4B38-B671-F57735A7A32A (resized).jpeg8EFA17B1-7605-4761-9516-78DC93AB3FED (resized).jpeg9530F749-C760-496C-B59A-697A27830278 (resized).jpegBFAC5F9C-41F4-4354-B726-6CC4F39C5365 (resized).jpegCD3EA25F-61B0-4493-93DC-6BB38589312A (resized).jpegQuoted from Johncare07:I traded a mint sopranos for WH20 and $1500. It was in bad shape. In a smoker’s home for 20 years.
Much to my chagrin, I was able to completely get rid of the smell using an 03 machine. Did a complete restore on it. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great job restoring!!
Quoted from Johncare07:I traded a mint sopranos for WH20 and $1500. It was in bad shape. In a smoker’s home for 20 years.
Much to my chagrin, I was able to completely get rid of the smell using an 03 machine. Did a complete restore on it.
Nice work!! Mine is basically in the same condition as yours was, minus the rust and corrosion... I've got parts and materials flowing in pretty constantly now through next week! One thing about my turd that i'm excited about, is that the topper is a tad faded, but it works, and there's no bubbles or wrinkles in it.
I'm having trouble finding just the long "Lost Mine" boulder (in case anyone has one for sale?), and the large back piece is in perfect shape, but the mounting holes are slightly damaged and repairable. I have NOS replacements for the other 4,
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Nice work!! Mine is basically in the same condition as yours was, minus the rust and corrosion... I've got parts and materials flowing in pretty constantly now through next week! One thing about my turd that i'm excited about, is that the topper is a tad faded, but it works, and there's no bubbles or wrinkles in it.
I'm having trouble finding just the long "Lost Mine" boulder (in case anyone has one for sale?), and the large back piece is in perfect shape, but the mounting holes are slightly damaged and repairable. I have NOS replacements for the other 4,
Sounds like a great journey ahead. If you need any pics for a certain angle you didn’t capture, I have plenty. Just ask.
Hey Everyone,
Joined the club yesterday. This game really slipped under my radar for some time but I’m so glad I discovered how fun it was. Obviously everyone else is in the know as I found it really hard here in the UK to find someone willing to part with one. They certainly don’t come up for sale very often these days it seems.
Previous owner had done extensive work on this machine. The coloured GI bulbs are not to my taste so will likely go. I’m planning to get a colordmd for it at some point too. It has a reproduction topper so I don’t get the waterfall effect but hopefully someone will fabricate a replica foil someday.
Very excited to have another Williams Classic in my small collection (Other games: CFTBL, MM)
D9D8F28B-0108-4C3F-A756-90FB2BD97E5B (resized).jpegE9531653-2512-4007-944F-ACFC5C15E30A (resized).jpeg
Bought mine in 2005 for $1800 shipped. Playfield swap, new mountains, ramps, solenoids, rubbers, Rottendog boards, speakers, and ColorDMD. It's awesome!
Quoted from Johncare07:Sounds like a great journey ahead. If you need any pics for a certain angle you didn’t capture, I have plenty. Just ask.
Thanks very much sir! I have a feeling that eventually i'll have to take you up on that offer!
Check it out! My wife is pretty creative and made me these target decals! I’m thinking about having her design them for several other pins! 
56D01BF7-B6E6-44EA-89BE-C90A6CFAF494 (resized).png7E7526E6-7E63-44FE-8DCC-5D8C14C4E36F (resized).png93EC9F96-4514-441F-AB1E-74C2BE2644D7 (resized).pngD7D63E7E-992B-4D6A-A5EF-17623AEF3E5E (resized).pngE9B2C108-A10A-468F-80A7-DC31C44DA39C (resized).pngQuoted from Pinkitten:Check it out! My wife is pretty creative and made me these target decals! I’m thinking about having her design them for several other pins!
REVIR?
Quoted from Pinkitten:Check it out! My wife is pretty creative and made me these target decals! I’m thinking about having her design them for several other pins
They look great! How bout a set for me? 
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Dublin, OH
Breda
Leicester