.

Very nice! So you did also light up the lost mine mountain with the same matrix strips, right?

You did a great job.
And, yes, how are you lighting the sling shot and lost mine areas? It is lit up really well out in font of them.

Yes. I used existing hardware to mount the brass strips. Light strips have adhesive back so they just stick on. With the Matrix, they can all be unplugged and removed if I ever need to tear the game down.

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jawjaw - so simple and so neat! Thanks man!

Transfered the playfield to the cabinet and did a quick test play - still some minor hickups to be corrected.
Most of them small things which are done quick.

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But then i struggle with the ball getting stuck in the whirlpool subway.
First they dont roll to the left...not sure if the metall bracket I have inside mine is standard?
You can see it here - kind of a straight Z shape bracket - normal? What can be done to prevent balls getting stuck there?
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But when they move to the left, they dont end up in the lost mine upkicker but only at the end of the subway.
What am I missing here?

I set the pin between 6.0 & 6.5 degrees...HALP!

Fantastic - thanks very much

Something doesnt seem right. That bracket is normal, just keep the ball from bashing the subway when it drops. Ball should not get stuck there, gravity should do the trick to keep it rolling. See mine installed from when I did my resto.

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Anyone know of someone that could make some decals to dress up the tops of the ramp protectors? I’m thinking something like the boulder pattern that are on the ramp decals behind them.

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Thanks for the picture...mine looks like it actually.

Hmm...maybe the plastic spacer on the whirlpool side is to long on mine?
Altough it looks quite standard...its a white one - this part no. I guess 03-8371

Anyone an idea or had something similar before?

Your metal "Z" bracket looks normal.

Have you checked the inclination of the game sideways? If the pin leans toward the right I guess it could prevent the ball from rolling to the left in the subway.

The plastic spacer that fasten the right side of my subway is about 3-4 cm long from memory.

Lhyrgoif - good point, will check that too! Thanks...

Does anyone know the link to the Bumble product that is used in the white modification? There is so many I am not sure which is the right one.

none of them

did you guys see Brian Allen's WW art yet? holy cow, its amazing. I don't even own a WW, but I had to buy that poster from him!

perfect translite interpretation by him. I'd buy that translite if i owned WW for sure!!!

I am so sick of the ball getting caught at the top either between the ramp and playfield or when the ball comes out of the vertical up kick too. I just put some mylar in the area but still have problems with it getting stuck once in awhile. Any ideas to help improve this area of the game?

Cliffy makes a protector for that area.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/wh20.htm

Look for the VUK drop plate.

I like the original artwork just fine.

I have a vuk plate, ball still get stuck where ramp meets mini playfield when the ball have too slow speed up the ramp or a lot of spin on the ball coming out of the vuk and traveling to the right and getting stuck. I've tried mylar, rubbers at the vuk exit, steeper pin angle but all that only make the ball get stuck a bit less, not eliminating it.

Not sure what to tell you, I don't have that issue at all.

I bought the VUK plate a while ago, but have not installed it yet (I plan to do that the next time I do a full shop job on the machine).

But I bought the plate to protect the playfield, not because I have any problems with stuck balls.

Do you have the original ramp, or is it a reproduction? Some people have had to sand down the edge of the reproduction ones as they are a bit thicker.

I did add two rubbers at both side of the vuk exit and it did eliminate the ball going to the left side completely.

Still habe the problem of the ball getting stuck on the left side of the subway.
It rolls now to the left without a problem, but does not enter the lost mine mech...just sits there where the subway ramp ends (its a repro and thicker than the original).

What am I missing here?

Repro ramps? you probably have the same issue I did.

On mine, where the ramp meets the upper PF, the side towards me (not towards the backboard) the metal ball guide did not meet up cleanly with ramp exit. It basically created a "lip" for the side of the ball to rest against if it wasnt moving fast. I ended up bending the ball guide to match up with the ramp side better. That cleared up the issue for me.

Yeah mine gets stuck at that lip too between ramp exit and Playfield. I tried putting a piece of mylar over the area which helps. I have an orginal ramp too. Someone said they put rubbers somewhere in that area. Do you have a picture for us?

don't get me wrong, I LOVE the WW art as is too. John Youssi and ZY are my FAVORITE artists ever in pinball. Some people might prefer to switch it out though. I know not everyone loves Youssi's art. I would probably switch it out for a time, then go back to traditional art periodically. variety is the spice of life!!!!

To quote myself here and add the solution to the problem - i had to dremel the left side of the subway repro ramp as there was not enough room for the balls to move freely into the lost mine mech. All good now!

I don't have a pic from when i made the adjustment, but this pick from when i was just doing a test fit may help explain it better. It also explains why repro ramps can be soo frustrating, lol. I added mylar over the gap thinking that would help but ultimately it didnt. the side of the ball would rest against the left ball guide that i circled because they didnt mate up cleanly on that side.

At the bottom they were fine, but as you went up the side of the ramp exit it not longer matched up.

So what i ultimately did was just take some pliers and bend the ball guide (in place, i was too lazy to take everything apart, lol) slightly to the left to better line up with the side of the ramp exit/transition.

Haven't had an issue since.

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Okay thanks for the information, I’ll check to see if my ball guide is line up correctly. Yeah I just put mylar in the area to see if it would help and it does a little.

My problem is not the metal ball guides but the actual crack between the mini pf and the ramp. I tried to "stretch" the ramp a bit further but as it's fastened in the other end too I can't close that last little gap. The gap is only about ~2 mm in size but it's still enough to get the ball stuck if it travels slow enough over it. I tried to cover the gap with mylar but no big difference. Also tried to put a partial toothpick below the mylar to even out the gap but still capturing balls.

The previous owner "solved" this problem by increasing the game inclination a lot, but that only made it really hard to go up all ramps, so that's not a viable solution imo. Currently I'm used to shake the game now and then to get the ball loose (often tilting the game in progress) but I really want to solve it once and for all somehow.

Been thinking of maybe using synthetic wood to fill the gap, but I want a solution that doesn't damage the game and still make me able to remove the ramp/mini pf for service and so on.

Yeah that’s what I did put mylar over that area, but it still hangs up in that area once in awhile. I also took the tilt off so I can bump it if it gets stuck in that area.

Makes sense, still might be worth a double check. if you take the back mountains off and push a ball into that area you should be able to see it.

I had a bit of a challenge when I restored my Whitewater. My gap
Was not as severe, but what I did was put a few pieces of Mylar under that clear ramp where it screws to the wood. This way the Andre was just enough to not allow the ball
To Settle in the recess. I have had zero
Issues...
Also did a lot of tests hand rolling the ball over it

So the idea was to raise the ramp exit higher than the mini playfield surface to create a downward slope? Any pics? The idea sound interesting.

I hated the repro ramps. My restored WH2O had them and it was a PIA to dial in. Lots of bending and mylar. When I got newer WH2O I just left the original ramps in even though they are cracked.

Correct Lhyrgoif i unfortunately don’t have a pic on my phone. But I needed using 2 layers of Mylar applied to the upper playfield right over the screw holes, then reattached the ramp... also used a heat gin so I could very carefully pull the ramp as close as I could to the upper playfield. As others have stated - and it’s true - aftermarket ramps are a pain. It took me a good 3 hours of tweaking , using a heat gun, etc... to get all my ramps properly in and aligned. But well worth it, the ramps have such an effect on the games presentation . Cheers

I hate how repro ramps aren't tested in the machines. I had to do a pile of sanding and machining on my Whirlwind ramps. Of the the edges where ramp meets playfield should be thinned out to match the original ramp thickness.

New to the club. Always respected WH2O over the years but never found a nice local one at a decent price...until now. This game is even better than I thought. The rules are solid and deeper than they first appear, and the art, music and callouts are fantastic. But the ramps are off the charts. Dennis really knew how to have fun with complicated ramps. I love Popaduik’s TOTAN ramp, but these ramps are the best I’ve played. Such a fun pin.

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Nice game! Now you need Colordmd!

Got one for it! Installation soon...

Got my white water finally converted over. Thanks to Robert Stone for the powdercoating with a custom color. It turns teal or blue depending on the angle.

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Yes, This worked for me finally. I added fuel to this fire when I installed a playfield protector. The protector just raises that mini playfield up even more. I have been tearing hair out trying to get this stick spot straightened out for weeks now. I took your suggestion and raised that ramp exit up about 3/16 of an inch. (higher to compensate for the protector) Worked like a charm. I could place the ball on the stick spot and it would roll out every time. Thanks for the conversation on this!

Wow that looks awesome. I am right behind you. Any pointers on switching out Bigfoot?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh2o-bumble-head-installation#post-6138289

Or message me and I’ll walk you through how I did it.

Thank you

I’m sure it’s something obvious, but what are the two star posts above the plunger on WH2O for?

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So a pinball doesn't get stuck there between the metal and glass.

Won't happen during gameplay, can happen when moving around the game and not taking the balls out..

I think there is another reason (or additional reason). If you look at what would happen if those were removed. The left ramp would hit the back box when you tilt the pf. I think those also keep that from happening. For the life of me, I can't imagine how a rogue ball would make it into that area.

When you lift the playfield all the way up these two star posts (and hopefully nothing else) touch the back box.
Consider getting the ones without screws on the top so that it doesn't scratch the back box.

Tell more about “ones without screws”. What posts are available that door require a screw to hold them in place? Those screws on WH2O do scratch the back box if not careful.

Here are the ones that came with my machine. Unfortunately I do not know where to get them from.

The other photo shows how they can scratch if you have screws on them. This is also from my machine and I assume someone replaced them after it got scratches.

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They look like vinyl caps over a regular star post. Do the blue caps come off?