When I boot mine up it says version L-3. Isn't there a newer chip called LH-6 or something like that? I assume I should get that updated chip right? What is the best place to purchase?

I buy my roms here.

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/white-water-pinball-cpu-rom-l-5-u6-bally-williams-eprom/

Which one do I order? Seems like there are a bunch of different ones.

Does anyone know this answer to this? I just purchased a color DMD and want to upgrade from L-3. Is LH-6 the best chip to upgrade to? Can someone confirm it works with Color DMD?

LH-6 with color DMD on mine. Works great!

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Yes, I can also confirm that LH-6 works fine with the ColorDMD.

Just be aware that LH-6 is a "home use only" ROM, meaning that it only supports Free Play mode, and cannot be set for coin-op mode.
Also, LH-6 fixes a very bad bug in LH-5 that causes resets mid-game. You don't want LH-5.

LH-6 has a lot of improvements over the "regular" version (which is L-5), but if you need coin-op mode, you will have to use L-5 instead.

Just get the LH6. It will work with color dmd.

My Yeti has decided he only wants to spin in one direction. Anyone have ideas of what I should check to try and convince him to spin both clockwise and counter clockwise?

Maybe a bad/dirty opto on the yeti board. Doesn't detect when to stop and change directions.

Thanks, I cleaned the optos but no luck. I'm guessing to test them I'd remove the board, turn the game on and pass a card thru them in the switch test mode?

There is a Big Foot test you can run which will spin the head around and show you when each opto is closed.

Thanks, the optos test good in that test. Can't get the head spin to reverse in the CW/CCW test. Any ideas of what to check since it isn't a bad opto?

Unfortunately I don't have the know-how to diagnose an issue like that, but I know I've seen posts about similar issues so make sure to search this thread and this rest of Pinside for a solution if you haven't yet.

Did u disconnect any of the connectors under the playfield?

I had the same issue years ago, and from memory I had a couple connectors mixed up, after removing the upper playfield

No newly disconnected connectors, but I am going to take a look at the bi-directional driver board. Thanks for the tips.

Make sure the screw on the back of the head connecting it to the body is secure and not loose.

Hello, purist hide your eyes! I'll add a layer.
Custom topper finished.

I'm still looking for a downloadable HD image of the topper, if you've got that under your belt, I'll put my hand up.
Thank you in advance.

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While I do appreciate all the work going into the making of that topper, I must say it's not to my taste. Bigfoot look really scary and I would get a fright every time I passed the pin.

Is it white water or planet of the apes?

Silly looking IMO

Well the hands make it look a little bit less silly I'll give you that. I hope you can find a scan of the original topper soon though, haha.

Hey, wrong thread, this is the correct one:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/congo-club-owners-only

BRAVO.....LOOKS fantastic

I think it looks great. Maybe better in brown if you didn't do the snow theme. But if you don't have the oringal topper this is better then nothing.

It would be awesome if that yeti was able to slowly rise up from the back while people are playing.

nocreditdot Any pictures of the CPR backglass in game? Thanks

Here’s mine

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Where is this reorchestration file available from? Is this one of the two available to download on the Pinsound site? Thanks for any help.

Yes,

You can download the files, unzip them, and listen to the music to see what you think.

With Pinsound you can load both the original and reorchestration sounds into your pin. You can even switch between the two when the game is playing. I have a Getaway with 6 different sound packages in it (5 of which I made).

I have question for you guys. (Sorry if it has been brought up before) do any of you have problems with multiple balls in the “No Way Out” VUK? If I get two balls in that popper, it has a hard time getting them to the mini play field. The coil is the correct one AE-23-800 and the windings do test out to 4.2 ohms. No loose wires and the mech is free and unbinding. One ball no issue. Any help will be appreciated.

Yep had the same problem. My vuk was misaligned/bent. Bought a new wire form and it's been solid.

So it sounds like a geometry issue with the alignment of the VUK to the wireform. I will look into that today. I can test any alterations by throwing in two balls to see how it discharges them. I will post up my findings. Thanks Guys!

Yes, if the wireform is not in the holes you'll have issues, also the VUK bracket is pretty easily bent and in fact can be bent a little to adjust how quickly the ball gets to the upper flipper. Make sure it's straight to start out with.

Does the plunger have a cup like this on the end?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8561

If it does, make sure all four fingers are there. If one is missing, the ball will not center itself and won't exit the scoop cleanly.

Ok I got it straightened out. The problem I had was a feed problem. First of all I should have never had more than one ball in the VUK at a time. The reason that I was getting two in there stemmed from a jam in the lock trough. (This flippin game is so touchy). If the VUK plunger is just slightly too low, the balls in the trough (all three in) push too far into the VUK (because the ball in VUK is too low allowing the next ball to protrude too far into the loaded VUK) this causes a jam when the VUK fires allowing another ball to jump in the VUK. Now the VUK has to shoot two balls out instead of one. It will eventually clear itself now. What I had to do was raise the VUK plunger about 1/4 of an inch so all three balls are perfectly aligned. That will allow the lock/vuk to operate in a normal sequence firing one ball up at a time. I used a small piece of two sided tape on the plunger return bumper.

Is this the area for your adjustment?

Bull 50.pdf

Yes. I used a small piece of thick two sided tape. I suppose you could bend the bottom of the bracket, but you would have to remove it to do so.

I'm in the process of finishing my restauration...what do people suggest to light up the mountains at the back?

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I used few matrix warm white strips.

Same here. Used Comet's matrix light strips to light up all boulders. The back was difficult because there is not much room. I got some brass strips from hobby store to use as brackets to hold the light strips. They bend real easy so perfect for shaping them right where you want them.

If you have not checked out the Comet Matrix products I highly recommend checking them out. They use connectors that piggy back off bulbs so no soldering. You even have a dimmer you can use to dial in the brightness.

I used a blue matrix light strip to make the ramps blueish in hue

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Jon9508 jawjaw - Thanks for the advice - any picture of how this looks with the white matrix lights?
J67ab - I prefer to light up the mountains and not the ramps, lights going up - but the blue ramps look nice too!

That's about the best I can get it

I used 3 10smd strips.

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Looking great mastercello I mounted a few wedge sockets on the backgoard and just used two bendies... the effect is suble and not overkill.

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hi... my mine kickout plunger is sticking after kicking out the ball.
then I open the coin door and physically pull the plunger down to keep the game going.
I'm wondering if there is an easy fix, such as; replacing spring or ??

my other plan was to change the coil.
thanks!
87

It sounds like it could be mechanical. You should take that coil out of there and check out your coil sleeve. Make sure the armature travels freely.

Anyone need boulders?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rock-set-complete-plus-more

Here is mine. Hard to get good picture of lighting.

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Apologies for my dumbass questions but I'm hoping you can help me ...

So you just load both the original file and the reorchestration sounds on the one usb stick? How do ou then select which file you want to use?

Thanks for any assistance.

Not a dumb question at all. You can have multiple sound sets on one USB. Adjust the volume down to zero and it will forward to the next set of sounds.